Joule Ringer!

[Nick_Z]

If you remove the protection diode, and resistor from Slayer's replication of the Lasersaber circuit, what do you have?
I feel this all started with Dr. Stiffler and his illusive SEC devices. I could be wrong, but...
I've been burning transistor, even without feeling any heat, it may be the unprotected small and medium size transistors that I use, but the 2n3055 can also get snuffed.
What do you think?

Check the video below...

Lasersaber Type Exciter - YouTube

[Slider2732]

Agreed. I think Magneticist said it well in the latest comment on that video. It's about group evolvement and bits from here and there moving things forward. Sometimes i'm sure the originator hadn't thought of doing some of the things seen later on.
Definitely credit where credit is due..at least in terms of not calling something their own idea. With this type of circuit it can easily happen though that what a person see's for the first time has been done before, just wasn't known. We're talking simple but effective circuits and there are sure to be parallels.
I mean, with your transistor problems, have you tried a neon across the Collector and Emitter on the 3055 ?
If you did and it worked, it would be a Bedini SSG type mod !

[Nick_Z]

I'll give the neon a try. Gadgetmall also just mentioned to place a 0.01 capacitor between the emitter and control, this was for the 3.0 circuit. But I just tried it on my Exciter and did get a slightly higher output. I've got all Exciter circuits wired similar to the 3.0 circuit now, going from the secondary of the tower output to the Cfl and then back to the transistor's control. A one wire connection can also be taken anywhere throughout the house, just like you mentioned before. Since wireless is only good for or limited to a couple of feet away from the circuit.
One more thing... if a ferrite rod of any size is added to an Exciter tower or ANY open air core coil, it will also help to add more output. Even if it's only a smaller piece of ferrite added to any air core coil, it will also help to increase the output by A LOT. It does not have to be the full 8 inches of ferrite to work well. The ferrite beads that you and I have from CRT monitors or Tv may not work as well, as far as I can see. But, any old junk radio will have a real ferrite rod in it that can be used.

Slayer's replication of the Lasersaber circuit only used 28 mA to light a 2 watt bulb. So, 10 2 watt bulbs would only use at most 280mA, or less. For 20 watts worth of lights, and that bulb looked pretty bright to me...

Here is a picture of a 2 inch Exciter with a one inch ferrite rod, inside. Not lighting 100%, but still a nice bright useable light. I would say the about 30% more light by using the small ferrite rod.

[Slider2732]

Hmm.. so a '103' as marked on orange disc caps ?
I've tried variations on that, but not from Emitter to Base (if that's what 'control' is ?)
If anything, that's normally where a diode or LED for tuning would go and so was highly likely personally missed as a test area.

I've found ferrite to be key for any tower wound below 1/2" diameter. When tried on a Walgreen type, the input current went up. However, remember the wireless helicopter experiments of a while ago ? the tower used there had ferrite pieces in the top, supported by a piece of blue insulation foam underneath
Moving the ferrite slug in and out of the tower will show sweet spots.

Btw, the Vinnic 1 minute charge up battery finally ran down after 35hours. At 3am this morning it was on 0.454V, the test circuit needing 0.455V to run. I'm going to give it another charge up and see what happens.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, nice work nick.
Hi slider, wonder if your dinosaur dead cell test has any connection to the 3 battery thread tests.
Decided to fart around with this ferrite e-core from a computer power supply if memory serves.
Trying 24awg., already have 3 layers of 75 turns per layer, though each turn probably has more length than the ferrite rods others are using.
Not sure how many turns to go for, maybe 6 to 8 layers for 450-600 turns.
Then can test different primary wire gauges and turns on top of that, going to start with 18 awg. for now, with at least 50 turns.
Used plastic which was laying around for end caps, had to roughen surface so super glue would hold.
Here is a couple pics.


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peace love light
tyson

[Nick_Z]

Slider: Yea, sorry don't know what I was thinking,,, the cap goes between the emitter/collector is what I meant to say. I'll give the neon a try tomorrow
But, the main thing that I wanted to mention was that my TIP 3055 ran luke warm (first time), on 14 volts, before it blew from the emf spikes, or whatever. The 3 inch rod has 400 turns on the secondary now, and it bites hard. I think that it's not good to mess with the connections or transistor when they are running. As there is a lot of hot emf from the current they output.
The bigger 2n3055 is the way to go, but Gadgetmall mentioned that he's even blown several of them also. He's got a 6 inch radio ferrite rod lighting an incandescent bulb on 1.5 volts. No cost, if you can find one of those old radios with the bigger ferrite rod in it.

Skywatcher: I got some of those bigger E-cores also, worth trying out for sure. Lynx steam has a video on youtube where he compares the output of the 2.0 Ringer version using the E-core, to a much bigger and expensive to build air core coil set up. The E- core used 1/2 the current. You have to put tape or separate the two halves a little so it won't ring. He has a lot of great videos out you guys might want to check all of them out if you've got the time, and haven't seen them.
Here's one of them:
Joule Ringer Version 2 - replication - YouTube

Now compare Lynx Steam's output from the E-core to Slayer's E-core Exciter running at 12v but using only 28 mAs, for a 2 watt led bulb. 1/10 the current draw from the Exciter circuit.

[Slider2732]

I've got something very weird to report
Ya know the Vinnic battery that had the 1 minute charge. It ran til 3am yesterday morning, 35hrs.
Well, i've been in another room setting up a PC board (anything has to be quicker than this 1.6GHz P4 from 2001)...the oscillator began to flash again just before midnight tonight !!!
Measured the voltage and it's at 0.654V. It had quit this morning, reading 0.454V.
What on earth ?

So I took a short video.
YouTube user homebuiltindoorplaee can vouch for the wiring positions etc where it now sits and has done since the charge up. I sent him an 'Unlisted' video of another experiment, but tagged on the end was the Vinnic battery strolling along.
Any thoughts on what has happened ? remember it showed a weird 9.8V while charging and then seemed to recover when the charge from the SJR 3.0 was disconnected. Recover back to what exactly ? lol
Have got Coast to Coast AM on in the background, so you can tell it's from just now.
Video is 'Unlisted' as it's not really of general interest.
Vinnic battery auto recharged ! - YouTube

What I find most odd, is that I was to try charging it again, but instead decided on sorting through PC stuff. Annnd, it did it itself lol.
Btw, the drum unit isn't plugged in and the nearest electrical anything is that PC board.

[Nick_Z]

Slider:
There really may not be anything that wierd about what happens in those old batteries. I've got a bunch of the D cell size carbon zinc cells, and they do self charge to a degree. As they are made of carbon/zinc, but, there won't be much current, just voltage. Therefore not really useable for normal 1.5 volt loads, of normal current draw, but, they can run a low draw oscillator.
What the one minute or even a one second charge or tap does is to polarize the battery, to activate it to self charge, like one of our homemade cells
Carbon/zinc batteries will also take a solar charge from garden lights well, and continue for a long time, New D cells have 10 amps of potential current in them, so they can recharge many times, and will also provide a small recharge themselves, when disconnected from the load. All batteries do this to some degree. But, it's a still fluffy charge.

[Slider2732]

Ah good, thanks Nick
The thing is still going btw. Yes, it's just pouring out a few uA.
An environment change was what I was thinking...it's gone much colder here, house temp from around 75 degrees to 50 degrees and I wondered if that was the reason. Some kind of misbalance again for the chemicals and all it would be doing is balancing.
Mind you, as you know, i've not done any carbon/zinc experiments and that was one reason for wanting to reuse what's in there.

[ztec2002]

joule ringer 3 vid

hi lasersaber watched your your vid of your joule ringer 3. you moved every part around expect your transformer why not ?, its looks like there wires going through the table so you cant move your core.maybe wrong just wandering, can you make a vid where you can move all the parts with one hand while its working.

cheers ztec2002













/

[Nick_Z]

I'm making a new coil from a 15 inch monitor ferrite yoke. Here is a video showing what those coils can do.
12v Super Joule Ringer 3.0 w/led, cfl, incandescent - YouTube

This is a picture of the ferrite crt yoke, and another of the current set up with the 3 inch radio rod, as well the the new yoke that I'm winding now, which is almost done. Upper part of picture shows a few of the transistors that I've tested, or blown.

[Zardox]

Hi Nick
So your only using half of the yolk I see so as not to have a full torroid.
That is a simple and great idea!
I am wondering if we could hook the two halves together in another way as to make a longer coil.

[b_rads]

Super Simple

Here is a very simple 120VAC LED Bulb inverter using Lasersabor’s Joule Ringer 3.0 Circuit. I used a RS (Radio Shack) 12V center tap transformer for the 6VDC and 12VDC tests and a 9VDC transformer liberated from a wall wart power supply. Power from 12V 5Ah AGM Battery. Results posted using a 7.5watt Utilitech LED 120VAC Bulb
-6VDC connection ~ 830 mA = 9.96watt, Bulb extremely bright.
-9VDC connection ~ 350 mA = 4.2watt, Very nice light output.
-12VDC connection ~ 25 mA = 0.3watt, Very dim light output.

Using LOA 1.2watt LED 120VAC Fan Bulb
-6VDC Connection ~ 1.4watt – extremely bright.
-2 bulbs ~ 1.45watt – extremely bright.

Transistor runs cool on all tests conducted. I will video and get some LUX readings this weekend and post.

@Nick - Your setup looks good!

Thanks,
Brad S

[Zardox]

b-rads
I have done the same thing useing different transformers. Right now I have it running using a old power supply transformer. However the strange thing that I have encountered is that it will run a 7.5 watt led but it won't run any of my 2 watt bulbs. Also it will not run a cfl or incandesant. That is what makes the 3.0 transformer special.

[b_rads]

I love simple!

b-rads
I have done the same thing useing different transformers. Right now I have it running using a old power supply transformer. However the strange thing that I have encountered is that it will run a 7.5 watt led but it won't run any of my 2 watt bulbs. Also it will not run a cfl or incandesant. That is what makes the 3.0 transformer special.

@Zardox: Bummer about the 2watter’s. All of my LOA’s and Utilitechs work great on this. I did have an LG bulb that did not work. I will try some different transistors to see if that makes any difference. The transformers tested are laminated steel; I also have some ferrite core transformers to try. Even if those tests do not improve the performance, I feel pretty good about this. I can buy the 12V 5Ah AGM’s for $15 each, the 7.5watt bulbs are under $10 now, I have a box (at least a dozen) 9VDC transformers, and the 2n3055’s are cheap. Leaving the batt’s on a solar float charger will provide for very nice emergency lighting. Anxious to see if this works with cell phone chargers, radios, etc,. Building this without modifying off the shelf parts is what I really like.

Brad S