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Thank you all for your concern i wll look into a healing room . Right now i just need keep busy and build up some of my life energy back . getting back involved in electronics and fe research was a passion of mine and i want it back . I am trying . My goal is to get lasersabers circuit going like he has it . A member @ OU named groundloop built me a board that can be programmed to pulse one energy source (battery) into another (cap) and draws less than 60 microamps 1.2 volts to run all those chips on it This was part of a project that i gave up on the Gadget heater light circuit where is recycled the Jt charge toa Bcap and then back to the battery .I am know well for this and Paul Lawerance fought me till i got sick and put it all away for over a year.I did not have the energy to fight and keep being thrown down and told it could not be done . I refuse now to think that way after My Fits with this cancer.. I can invision a cfl that lights all year long on one aa battery with Lightsabers Joule ringer tied in with this programmable pulser . . I do not think there is a circuit in the world available to anyone like this . If there was i would go get one I see the replications and i am waiting for the exact parts to do what Jonney and lidmotor are doing . after all it was never done before and no one but us will do it . . I found a supply of OLD aa fuji cameras with the neon yeaterday .I have to leave why it works up to some of the people here that know their math and figure out effects of this Lightsaber coil.Once that is figured out the camera transformer can be replaced by some other device like Jeanna's light ring and standard torroids and wire . I love light .and i love running them from practily nothing . Yes.
As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I've been able to completely remove the bifilar coil and replace it with a capacitor and high value resistor in parallel (10 Megs) and still get the fluorescent to light for 4-5 minutes. The capacitance of the bifilar coil seems to be key. I'm still waiting for wire and hoping with a new bifilar I can get even more extended run times. I've tried numerous setups with just resistance, capacitance and diodes (to replace the bifilar) and I max out around 5 minutes of flickering light.
The capacitance feature of the serial wound bifilar coil kept me puzzeled for some time starting with my attempts to spin magnets inside the air core of a bifilar coil. I noticed the coil retained a charge. This is caused simply by the two wires being wraped tightly together. I went on to build a "Cook" battery to experiment on. The coil won't do anything without the magnets in the core. The addition of the magnets is required to generate the capacitive charge. That's the magic!
When the bifilar coil has a set of 5, 3/4" diametric neo magnets end to end in the core, the coil charges to it's capacitive limit and no more. The magnet core coil connected to a capacitor will charge the capacitor through a diode to match it's capacitive limit, but no further; However, if a very small load is added with a constant amp draw, this kind of "Cook" battery will continue to replenish it's own power to it's capacitive limit indefinitly. This very low amp draw should be sufficient to continuously power the capacitors of the "Joule Ringer", depending on the size of the high voltage wired bifilar coil and strength of the magnets.
This effect is truly fascinating, because the magnets can supply solid state electric power directly to the "Joule Ringer" at this low amp draw range perpetually, without an antenna and ground, or the size cost and humidity required by the air battery or Stubblefield coil.
Could any of you guys try a non-inductive bi-filar coil? I.e. connect the ends together instead of connecting start of the second winding to the end of the first one?
I haven't tried this yet so it's only an idea... adding Dr Stifflers fast charging cap circuit to aid in replenishing the main cap. It also ties it directly to the environment via earth ground. I'll give it a try when I get some time later...
________ Brook
@ All
Here is a video that shows how to mod a Kodak Fun Saver cam by cutting off the transformer and transistor intact from the board. This saves the HORROR!!! of trying to remove the parts without breaking them. The tiny 220ohm resistor has to be removed from the back of the board so that you can work with what we are doing here. Lasersaber's magic coil/diode part goes there. I think that Xee's cap/resistor arrangement might work there also.
@Jbignes
The circuit that I used in my last video is basically the Lattice 333 (post #116). That 1:1 transformer that I used is NOT the right answer. This morning I removed it and just used the 5k pot and the red LED ---I got about the same results. I think that a high value resistor and a cap there might be the answer? I just don't know. When I get the 10,000 caps I really want to try and replicate the original Lasersaber "Ringer".
@Jonny
I'm glad that you got one of these working. There is a connection to the "exciter" circuits here somehow.
Could any of you guys try a non-inductive bi-filar coil? I.e. connect the ends together instead of connecting start of the second winding to the end of the first one?
ABC
When the start of the bifilar secondary is connected to the end of the first, the current runs in two different directions past itself in tight wraped adjacency. One side positive and the other side negative. This creates a capacitive potential along with the inductive. The paralell connection merely allows for the inductive, and dosen't behave any differently then a single wrap. Each wire acts as a capacitor plate of opposite charge in the patented Tesla high voltage connected design.
Skaght replaced Lasersaber's bifilar with a capacitor resistor combination to conclusivly demonstrate the LCC nature of the bifilar resonant circuit. A measure of capacitive Joules in the bifilar coil would convert into micro farads, and a correctly valued capacitor resistor combination should be able to replace the bifilar coil.
Packing the Tesla connected high voltage bifilar coil core with same diameter diametricly polarized neo tube magnets and attaching that type of "Cook" battery to the input capacitor's battery ends should allow the "Joule Ringer" CFL to power itself perpetually for free.
Found a good link to order particular models of those small flash-transformers instead of chopping into disposable cameras where everyone will be workimg with something slightly different.
If anyone wants to know I oredered 5 of the model 15A EE 19 union-brand model for $3 USD apeice from the company wellgainelectronics
here is the link for all their flash-transformers:
the guy in the video showing how to cut out circuit board w/transformer in a kodak funsaver camera had a union brand transformer in it (a 352 model)
I couldnt find anywhere the model of transformer that I cut out of a FUJI "XTRA" disposable camera
(TCE SD 25 DS5B)
I wonder what model transformer LaserSaber used?
anyways they say there are 57.000 available of this UNION 15A EE 19 so this might be good choice for "standardizing" all the joule-ringer expeirments but maybe not if they dont ring...
The 15A EE 19 is rated at 300-350VDC and are 5 pin
they say they are for "strobe tubes"
- some others are rated at 220-330VDC and some others are 4 pin or 3pin so this seemed like a good one plus they have tons of them available
Last edited by konehead; 01-09-2011, 04:16 AM.
Reason: typo again
konehead
i have looked at those before but i thought they were pricy for a little transformer..
keep in mind that we also need the transistor for the camera also..
i rather buy the cameras just so i can get all the xtra parts ..
like the trigger coil, resistors, battery, xenon tube..
i have tried all the new disposable cameras even the kodak and it wouln't light a cfl with a 1.5 bright that is.. but i bought a couple fuji flash camera that take the AAA battery and they light the cfl perfect.. so i am going to use these for the joule ringer ..
I've built two aircore bifilars and am getting reasonable results. The first air core is 26 gauge wire, 1" diameter, approximately 10" in height wound on acrylic tube. I can run a mercury argon tube with 5 mA, and make a spark gap across the output with an avenko plug to a capacitor that appears to put out a couple thousand volts at a repetition rate around 10-20 Hz. All for 5-6 mA at 5 volts. Interestingly, the second bifilar is 30 gauge 1" diameter and 10" height and gets similar results by adjusting resistance and/or diodes. I can get about the same brightness with either bifilar. It also lights the compact fluorescent for about 5-6 mA as well.
My staying power with the circuit with a single capacitor doesn't seem to be as good as what lightsaber was reporting, but the lighting/flashing effects appear similar and I'm happy with such a low current draw.
I cut a Kodak Funsaver circuit board "piece" like Halo2 showed and used that for a driver. You have to remove all the parts from the board except the transformer and the transistor for it to work right. I'm glad that konehead found a source for the transformer. An MPSA06 should work just fine for the transistor but might not work in the low voltage range.
When I got the circuit running I tried all kinds on things at the 220 ohm base resistor point and came to the conclusion that the capacitor/resistor arrangement might be the best. I did try a better bifilar coil that I had on hand and got good results with a 1 meg pot in parallel.
This thing is getting pretty good now at making useable light. Here is the video of it running on a 10F 2.3 volt supercap charged up by a couple of AAs.
Now that I've got two decent bifilars, I compared the output to using just a cap and resistor in parallel. I seem to be able to get similar power in and light output from either bifilars or by replacing the bifilar with just resistors and capacitors in parallel. Anyone else seeing a big improvement with the bifilar over just resistors and caps in parallel? I'm using around 40 nF with 100k ohms.
I cut a Kodak Funsaver circuit board "piece" like Halo2 showed and used that for a driver. You have to remove all the parts from the board except the transformer and the transistor for it to work right. I'm glad that konehead found a source for the transformer. An MPSA06 should work just fine for the transistor but might not work in the low voltage range.
When I got the circuit running I tried all kinds on things at the 220 ohm base resistor point and came to the conclusion that the capacitor/resistor arrangement might be the best. I did try a better bifilar coil that I had on hand and got good results with a 1 meg pot in parallel.
This thing is getting pretty good now at making useable light. Here is the video of it running on a 10F 2.3 volt supercap charged up by a couple of AAs.
Another modification of lasersabers Joule ringer . I dont think this is off topic very much as i dont know the exact specifications of the bifialer magic coil .
I do see a big advantage using another coil on top of the transformer though.And the Germaniums(leaky diodes) are a must . i tried caps and resistors and they work but the draw is mesurable with them . i dont see any noticable current draw on my meter using an arangment of germaniums and a coil. it less than a few micro amps . I believe becuase of the feedback or as i like to call it reguaging of the supply and transistor.Others may have different results as out of three aaa fugi transformers only two light a cfl . the other will light a neon but not the tube hooked up exactly the same .
this one attached is still running over 40 hours on one cell lighting a 9 watt cfl . the only difference on the one running is Jesus (the schematic artist) did for me from my cave man drawings shows 4 germaniums . i am using 5 .You can use as many as you like if you decide my mod to LS is worthy
I am just excited to see this run so long compared to a mod to a fuji did a few years back . Then it was amazing to get it to run 18 -24 hours . now its 40+ / wow . Plus i get extra power from the Hazens coil secondary and light an led also.Could be bridged for a cleaner output .
Caps should be in monday and then i'll concentrate on caps only . Right now it should run on caps but all i have is some leaky 2200uf and they dont work for more than a second.
As you can tell i have nothing but time on my hands . House work is done and my daughter is home and happy playing and observing . She got an electronics 150 projects and is quite good building circuits Wonder where she got that
Thanks for the alternatives cancer treatments everyone . thank you .
Thanks for the information Fusionchip. This might be off topic, but have you tried ESSIAC tea ? The History of Essiac and Rene M. Caisse, Canada's Nurse I mentioned it on another thread. A frieind of mine used it to completely cure his prostrate cancer and it
is supposed to be effective for other cancers. I have used it myself, although I
didn't have cancer, and it seemed to give me more energy. Hope you don't mind that I mentioned this.
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