Originally posted by SkyWatcher
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Joule Ringer!
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Totoalas:
Have you tried charging the 7ah, 12v batteries that you have using the solar panels going first to the Ringer circuit, and then to the charge battery?
To compare that HF charge performance of the pulse charge, to that of the regular 12 to 18 volt low voltage charge, direct from the solar panels to the battery. Which is the best way to charge the 12v batteries?
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Originally posted by Nick_Z View PostTotoalas:
Have you tried charging the 7ah, 12v batteries that you have using the solar panels going first to the Ringer circuit, and then to the charge battery?
To compare that HF charge performance of the pulse charge, to that of the regular 12 to 18 volt low voltage charge, direct from the solar panels to the battery. Which is the best way to charge the 12v batteries?
Never tried on a 7 ah battery but to a cell phone but for a short while only
Im currently using the sg oscillator from solar to two 7 ah batteries ... ps check my last video on YT very efficient
My JR is set only to max 200 m A to save on the charge for 12 pcs 220v ac led lamps in parallel ( usually 160 mA)
Im now experimenting with strip leds since new led bulbs 4th generation tend to consume more
totoalas
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Originally posted by Nick_Z View PostTotoalas:
Have you tried charging the 7ah, 12v batteries that you have using the solar panels going first to the Ringer circuit, and then to the charge battery?
To compare that HF charge performance of the pulse charge, to that of the regular 12 to 18 volt low voltage charge, direct from the solar panels to the battery. Which is the best way to charge the 12v batteries?
Never tried on a 7 ah battery but to a cell phone but for a short while only
Im currently using the sg oscillator from solar to two 7 ah batteries ... ps check my last video on YT very efficient
My JR is set only to max 200 m A to save on the charge for 12 pcs 220v ac led lamps in parallel ( usually 160 mA)
Im now experimenting with strip leds since new led bulbs 4th generation tend to consume more
totoalas
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Originally posted by jonnydavro View PostI hope you do try a 555 timer on the base to give you complete control as I think you will get very good results as it is easy to overdrive the transistor and needlessly waste battery power.The buzzer works very well to do this and is quick to implement and that is the setup which I have had my best results with.
Thanks for sharing your experiment.Jonny.
Jonny, I'll be able to report very exciting results soon. So far, I have increased the CFL brightness significantly and able to increase battery pack voltage with the transistor ice cold. My target is for full brightness and to overdrive the gutted CFL at a current draw of 300ma with the transistor still ice cold.
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Originally posted by Billxx View Post@jonnydavro
Jonny, I'll be able to report very exciting results soon. So far, I have increased the CFL brightness significantly and able to increase battery pack voltage with the transistor ice cold. My target is for full brightness and to overdrive the gutted CFL at a current draw of 300ma with the transistor still ice cold.There is no important work, there are only a series of moments to demonstrate your mastery and impeccability. Quote from Almine
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X Generation LED Lamps
HI to all
MY JR 1 had been effective with third generation led lamps 220 v ac 5 w led lamps with 200 mA 80 % brightness for 10 pieces in parallel
However with new 4th generation led lamps, I can lit only one which is still flashing with my original JR set up ... need to increase the input current which is bad for solar / battery charged system
Has anyone tried to adapt the jr to any kind of led lamps with less amps
most of the current test with sjr cross over, lynx had more than 200 mA just for one led lamp
Either we come back to gutted cfls by Skywatcher and Nicks
and Slayer/ Jonny davro circuit for more tweaking
Merry xmas to all
totoalas
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Hi folks, Hi nick, here is the circuit that is lighting up a gutted 13 watt cfl to full brightness, while the heat sink is only warm and transistor between ambient and luke warm.
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post219280
peace love light
tyson
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Originally posted by SkyWatcher View PostHi folks, Hi nick, here is the circuit that is lighting up a gutted 13 watt cfl to full brightness, while the heat sink is only warm and transistor between ambient and luke warm.
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post219280
peace love light
tyson
can you try with 4 or 6 bulbs then we can use this in solar lighting
merry xmas
totoalas
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Hi totoalas, don't really have matching gutted cfls here and that may be an issue with trying to light multiple bulbs in series or parallel off the same transformer.
Will try and see.
The only issue might be, that if we add more turns to the secondary, we can ignite more cfls in series, but we now have less current potential because of higher resistance in secondary to light them brighter.
Maybe using a thicker gauge wire, like 24 gauge, would need more layers to get the same turns, though the current would be available to light multiple bulbs in parallel, though probably not in series, as the voltage probably would not be there to strike lights on.
Then again, maybe some type of added circuitry, (similar to a ballast function) to ignite the multiple bulbs, then added windings might not be necessary on the same ferrite core transformer.
We will see.
With the Meissner TV yoke circuit just posted, to get it to light at a lower input and lower light level without using a potentiometer, had to wire in a bypass switch to ignite the bulb, since the lower setting is not enough to strike the bulb, so it is a similar concept.
Get the multiple bulbs to ignite, then we can use a lower input on all of them, for a useable amount of desirable light for our application.
peace love light
tyson
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Hi again totoalas, was making a few tests here with a couple gutted cfls in series, that are somewhat similar 13 watts bulbs.
We can go up in input voltage to do the job, as 24 volts lights both very bright or we can use the same 12 volts or so and try multiple secondary windings.
Then each winding can go to a cfl, wherever it is needed in ones house and since it is high voltage AC, there is little loss with longer distance wires.
Tested a 4 ferrite bead with one layer of 30awg. secondary-320 turns and a 66 bifilar turns 24awg. primary on top.
It ignites the 13 watt just fine and that is a 10:1 ratio of winding turns.
So, that means, we can make at least 4 layers of individual secondary windings to power multiple, separated bulbs.
Going to first try it with this ferrite bead core, since it does work, will add another individual secondary coil on top of first one to power 2 separate bulbs and see how that goes, if it goes well, will try it with the ferrite TV yoke next.
Of course we can always use a thicker primary gauge wire, if extra amperage is needed for brightness, will try the primary bifilar 24awg. magnet wire for now.
peace love light
tyson
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Originally posted by jonnydavro View Post@Billxx.Looking forward to seeing your results,they sound really promising
Please also try led bulbs with your setup and possibly post a circuit diagram.Cheers.Jonny.
Well, while able to increase the battery pack size (up to 16.5v), the power required to light the gutted CFL (to full brightness) is outside of the ability of the battery pack using std 1.5v, 595mah cells. Because the circuit was responding so well at 3v I really thought we'd get better results, sorry. I used different configurations including maintaining the PWM circuit voltage at 3v but to no avail. I even tried using an external PWM circuit with it's own power (1.5v), but, that didn't work either. A real big issue is heat in the battery pack.
Jonny, this isn't a failure by any means, at 12v, 700ma, the 18W CFL, while not at full brightness, lit up a 15ft x 15ft room very well, but, the power demand exceeds the battery pack and will only do that for a while and then starts dropping, afterall, the battery pack is only 595mah. There's very very little heat in the circuit, but, what is alarming is the heat from the battery pack. (Note: the battery of the external PWM was dangerously hot when I tried that approach)
For now, I'm going to abandon the CFL circuit and look at an LED circuit. Considering your success with the potentiometer-buzzer arrangement, I should have better success with an LED.Last edited by Billxx; 12-23-2012, 10:24 AM.
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Hi Skywatcher
thanks for sharing your results
so multiple secondary with a single primary can do the trick
I am still working on my half JT and half slayer circuit on an E core transformer ... still no success
Just replicated lynx RF diode Charger ( AC Neutral RF Charger 231212 - Youtube Imtotob ) and seems to have fast charging effect using Neutral AC with body ground shorting the output .......
A 4th generation 3 w led 220 v ac will flash on the Neutral / earth ground
The RF diode charger has the same result with ac being converted to dc
and will light a 7 meters 12 v led strips for a second with 60 v dc
if we can amplify tweak the circuit to use supercaps then
we can have full use of the neutral in our house......
Merry Xmas
Update
AC Neutral RF Charger Load 271212 - YouTube
totoalasLast edited by totoalas; 12-27-2012, 07:51 AM.
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