If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
using the small toroid as trigger and jkst placed inside the crt cone coil pick up 12 ro 20 ma very dim led with 5 v dc with 12 v it will not light up the led bulb
The BITT transformer, like all transformers, requires A.C. input current to operate correctly. Pulsed D.C. will yield some, but very inferior results. Try powering the JT with the Flip Flop Inverter or transformed A.C. wall current. Looks awesome, good luck!
Are you suggesting that using a fencewire core this could be done?
I'm a bit confused with the Thane Heins based methods, because in most cases a see a prime mover, be that a motor or a transformer, which apparently has a fairly (larger) current draw/power requirement, and the secondaries, when added, do not seem to load it down, rather it's own draw decreases, suggesting that the high impedence coil, the secondary, is providing its' load with power, at no real cost. But, if the whole apparatus draws substantially more current than would required to just power the secondary load, on it's own, conventionally, where are the savings? When he talks about his technology being used in a regenerative acceleration situation, I am lead to believe he means, if you are going to be powering a current-hungry motor in the first place, to accelerate a EV, why not be charging the batteries simultaneously for free? Is this correct? If so, in a lighting situation, is it similar, i.e. sure, those 3V lamps seemingly are drawing very little current, but what about the Variac, what is it drawing? Would we not need to have a high speed "fan" or something, that provided additional light (for allegedly free...). Set me straight if I am confused! Thanks
Thane maintains that the BITT'S saturated primary core begins to return power to the grid! The conventional transformer's primary draw mirrors its output; The BITT'S seconday draw is independent of its primary input, and furthermore, Thane discovered that the primary BEMF returns power to the utility company instead of looping around the flux core to fight itself. Even though the primary appears to draw power in the amp meters through the Variac, the utility meter on the outside of the house should be standing still!
@all: Not certain if anyone is still experimenting with the inverter circuits or not, but I stumbled onto a couple of things I found very interesting.
I am particularly interested in the circuit presented by @kcarring and replicated by @xee2 called the “DC to AC Inverter with the 555” by Tony Van Roon. This circuit can be found at:
My thinking is to combine the 555 timer circuit and complimentary pair transistors as the front end of the circuit by Van Roon and the schematic by Steiner as the back end of the circuit. I have completed the front end and am working on the back end.
On the Van Roon circuit I have not placed the “R4” 50k linear pot and I also tried on the “R3” a 330 ohm, 100 ohm, and no resistor. For “C4” I tried a 1000uF, 2200uF, and a 3300uf capacitor. The cap made very little difference in the circuit but the “R3” resistor did make a difference in current usage.
For the back end I salvaged some 120VAC to 5VDC transformers (no center tap). Using two of these transformers, I connected them together similar to what is shown by Steiner. Placing the 2 transformers side by side, I put 2 magnets between and a single magnet on the outside of each. The polarities of the magnets are all facing the same direction. The bulb lit slightly brighter with no increase in current supplied to the circuit. I then placed a 100uH choke from RadioShack on one leg of the AC output to the bulb, and an even greater increase in light without an increase in supplied current.
For power supplied to the circuit, I am using an AC to DC charger rated 10VDC at 210ma. My bulb is a FEIT 1.1watt ceiling fan LED Bulb. Using the “R3” 330 ohm resistor, my current draw is 30 to 35ma. Using the 100 ohm resistor the draw is 40ma, and no resistor draws 44ma. With no resistor the bulb appears to output approximately 70 to 80% light.
I compare this to an incandescent 3-way bulb. Base circuit, no resistor, is like the low setting – add magnets and choke, medium setting, - plugged into AC is like the high setting. For slightly less than 0.5watts I am getting a very nice light. I am excited to add diodes to the back end and see what difference this makes. Regardless, this is way cool and I will certainly box this one up.
Also, in the Steiner link he refers to the book “Magnetic Amplifiers” by Mali, which is an excellent read. Here is a link to download that book:
What kind of circuit is the best to charge 1000uF/350V capacitor from small cell accumulator 3,6V 800mAh or maybe 10000uF/25V ? Some variant of Joule Thief ? Need advice, please/.
Interesting indeed. Still wrapping my head around the magnetic amplifier page, thanks for that! I'm trying to imagine whether or not the guy has to sit there and vary the potentiometer to make the thing work... it would seem so, to me, anyway.. and perhaps what you are saying is; hit it with a pwm. hmmm i don't know, but "rolling" a pot, would give you a sort of (rough) sawtooth on the positive side, would it not? I'm still trying to understand how he even gets AC (or if he truly does) out of such a simple circuit. Strange an cool indeed.
---------------------------------------------------- Alberta is under attack... http://rethinkalberta.com/
Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P
After reading all the postings and viewing most, if not all the YouTube videos, I became intrigued with the disposable camera circuit configurations and how it fit into the circuit driving the CFL lamp/FL tube.
What I discovered, and maybe why so many were frustrated that their circuits didn't work or work as well as the circuit originator expected, was that there are about 4 various configurations, 2 entirely different circuit designs and 2 variations of the same design for both the Fuji and Kodak disposable cameras.
As the circuit design was being improved and the drawing revised, I didn't come away with a final improved design, as somebody else noted in one of the postings.
Since all the known components are all the same it appears that the construction of the 'Bifiler Coil' is the only variable and it looks like a great guessing game as to its construction for best tuning in the circuit for max performance in replicating the original circuit design.
I'm going to try my hand at it and see how close I might come in replicating the original circuit and I'll be guessing that the coil form is approx 0.43" dia x 4.50" long with 0.25" on each side to the end of the windings. This would equate to approx 150 windings/wrap and with 6 wraps giving a total of approx 450 windings for each of the 2 wires used.
I know everybody has moved on to new and different exciting projects, but, for me, I need to start from the beginning and understand the objective of these cool projects so I can better understand them.
Hi All.
This post is off topic it's the first and last time I'll do this.Just feel the need I guess.In My Humble opinion whether we believe in God or not Earth is truly the mother of us all.and we need to treat her has such.....Peace to all....Tec
Interesting indeed. Still wrapping my head around the magnetic amplifier page, thanks for that! I'm trying to imagine whether or not the guy has to sit there and vary the potentiometer to make the thing work... it would seem so, to me, anyway.. and perhaps what you are saying is; hit it with a pwm. hmmm i don't know, but "rolling" a pot, would give you a sort of (rough) sawtooth on the positive side, would it not? I'm still trying to understand how he even gets AC (or if he truly does) out of such a simple circuit. Strange an cool indeed.
Hi Kyle, Sky and minoly
Dont know much about solar panels so help is most wanted here
I already have the 7 Ah battery to JB / Minoly charge 2 60 Ah Batteries which in turn will supply loads one laptop , one desk top and one 42 " led tv
The solar panel specs are 10 Watts 5 Watts
Peak Power 10 W 5 W
Max peak Voltage 17.5 V 18 V
Max peak current 0.57 A 0.28 A
Solar panel to charge the 7 Ah battery while another 7 A h battery is charging the 60 A batterry the other 60 Ah battery is supplying the load
Too many manual switching , any very basic auto changeover circuit to do all this
Also 5 or 10 watts Panels to use or how to connect them together....
The Solid state relay of Technomancer seems better since when I am testing the new 2A charge controller , the relay suddenly rattle and need to isolate the panel to reset the alarm......
One more thing, diode protection of solar terminal what size please
I realized while responding to questions about Thane Heins's BITT, that all the A.C. inverter circuits would start to fry without a BEMF recovery circuit and diode protection. A fast switching diode in line with a super capacitor looped back to D.C source from the primary should do the trick! A second set of diodes would also be needed to protect the Inverter componants. This simple upgrade combination should produce a self runner!
A fine BITT flux core could be cold molded from iron powder mixed with Locktite 1 to 1 epoxy. The mixture could be set in a 1/4 plaster of paris mold. The quaters could be cemented together with the same mixture. That would produce two halves with six butts. This would allow us to cement the flux core ends inside the empty cores of prewound copper magnet wire spools, again with the same mixture to insure uniformity, and save the tedious job of wraping.
I e-mailed Thane and asked him to review my posts here on the BITT to see if everything meets with his approval.
How many amps or mA out on your solar panel, can you get, in good sun, versus the input draw on your JB charger? So far my experience with my (weak) JB charger has been that I'd need about 500 of them LOL. I use MPPT instead, until such a time I can have 20-60 amps put to use. I think the JB charger is better suited for small solar applications, not kilowatt installs. Although, during very very low light hours, when nothing else would charge, it has it's place. I like the fact that MPPT can take 20V in, and pulse higher current at 14.5 volts out. Not too mention it takes care of overcharge control, and doesn't send HV into my inverter running at the same time, on the same bank...
---------------------------------------------------- Alberta is under attack... http://rethinkalberta.com/
Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P
How many amps or mA out on your solar panel, can you get, in good sun, versus the input draw on your JB charger? So far my experience with my (weak) JB charger has been that I'd need about 500 of them LOL. .
Thanks Kyle
My proposed set up
5 W (Max out 0.28A 18 v dc ) or 10 W (Max out 0.37 A 18 v dc )
1 12v 7 Ah Battery one for solar load
1 12 v 7 ah to supply the SSG JB charger to charge one 60 Ah 12 v battery
1 12 v 60 Ah to supply one laptop desktop , joule ringer lighting
and one 42 " lcd tv.......
Skywatcher mentioned that 5 watts is enough for the 12 v 7ah battery
Will try the Minoly mod for 7ah to 500 Ah charger( Hope Patrick can give the charge time) 5 WATTS SOLAR PANEL TEST 2 080112 - YouTube
Comment