Joule Ringer!

[LaserSaber]

Has anybody made a joule ringer with the base on the transistor disconnected? Where you would normally put the resistor - just leave the circuit open at that point. I have been seeing some very interesting results running my new joule ringer in this mode. I will post a video update soon. This new design is super easy to build using standard parts.

@Billxx

Very nice job on that light! The bifilar coil was something I used because it gave capacatence as well as resistance. You can achieve simular results with the right capacitor resistor combo.

[LaserSaber]

@minoly

In my case AC lines are not at play. I am running the joule ringer out in my shed on a battery. My shed has no AC power to it. I made sure that nothing else was turend on in the shed.

[Neight]

Has anybody made a joule ringer with the base on the transistor disconnected? Where you would normally put the resistor - just leave the circuit open at that point. I have been seeing some very interesting results running my new joule ringer in this mode. I will post a video update soon. This new design is super easy to build using standard parts.

@Billxx

Very nice job on that light! The bifilar coil was something I used because it gave capacatence as well as resistance. You can achieve simular results with the right capacitor resistor combo.

I have actually seen the same thing, though I didn't run any tests on it. I noticed it when I was switching out transistors on a bread board. before i put the base connection back in, the LED lit up like normal. I thought for sure I had done something wrong, and rebuilt the circuit before connecting power.
I guess I wasn't expecting it, and didn't want to blow the transistor or LED, so I shut it off quick. Now that you have brought it up, I might give it a shot again, and measure input and output, see what is really going on. setup this way, you aren't even using the whole center tapped coil, just the input from the battery, and the half going to the collector...
interesting, thanks for posting!

N8

[xee2]

@ Billxx

Very nice build. What are using for toroid and how many turns? I have not been able to light an unmodified CFL using a small toroid.

[jehdds]

HI LO Joule Ringer with Less Heat 220312 - YouTube

Thank you for sharing this.
Do you have a circuit diagram for this? What type inductor are you using?
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[jehdds]

@minoly

In my case AC lines are not at play. I am running the joule ringer out in my shed on a battery. My shed has no AC power to it. I made sure that nothing else was turend on in the shed.

@LaserSaber,
What output in volts and mA do you achieve out of your large shed toroid set up?
I have found with the Sergdo, the rectified DC off the AC has really nominal current, like less than 1mA! Thank you for your input again.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[totoalas]

Thank you for sharing this.
Do you have a circuit diagram for this? What type inductor are you using?
Very Best Regards,
Jim

hi
using only one 10 k and a diode to the base thats it

Tried to isolate the base connection and no oscillation


totoalas

[Billxx]

@Billxx

Very nice job on that light! The bifilar coil was something I used because it gave capacatence as well as resistance. You can achieve simular results with the right capacitor resistor combo.

Thanks, LaserSaber. The base is a surface mount fixture adapter for a single electrical outlet box I bought from Home Depot, there is another bigger one to connect to a std 4" box. I cut a round piece of 1/8" thick plastic to fit inside and mounted with #4 screws and mounted the battery holder to that. I just stuck felt pads to the plate on the bottom. Really worked out well, lots of room too.

[Billxx]

@ Billxx

Very nice build. What are using for toroid and how many turns? I have not been able to light an unmodified CFL using a small toroid.

Thanks, xee2. The CFL is modified, I removed the electronic ballast. I modified 3 CFL's - 9W, 13W, and 18W for testing. This is just a modified fuji circuit. I saw the discussions and a couple YouTube videos about the Toroid project you're talking about, this isn't that, although it might be an interesting project. My next project may be a solid state generator driving the CFL (without a battery?).

[T-1000]

@ kcarring

Try this.

EDIT: If I understand what you are doing, when the capacitor is discharged the mosfet is shorting the power supply to ground and this energy is not doing anything (just wasted). With this circuit the energy goes through transformer and builds up magnetic field. I think this will give more brightness for the same current. However, I do think your circuit will give AC whereas this one does not (but it sort of does).

If you think N. Tesla way, you would use CFL as spark gap and discharge capacitor to another winding in same transformer for energy recover. Should be interesting results if someone got spare time to try. Just reach resonance conditions...

Cheers!

[kcarring]

@T-1000

Very valid thought. All too much effort on simple blocking oscillators and not enough on step two. Bedini's, joule thieves... it's all explainable by Steinmetz's math.

Working on the next level. Still reading, the original patents... but very good point. There are levels here... building blocks... i like the royer circuit so far though, because it is a sine wave.. and sets to resonance. different than a blocking oscillator, possibly facilitates step two better... maybe there is more at the higher end of the spectrum, i don't know. maybe ionization curves are overlooked too. interesting things happens when you mess with a molecule on it's own stability level, instead of just heat it up?

Never hurts to get your pre-ignition down before you rev the motor though...

and when it comes to pre-ignition Lasersabre's shed light makes me wonder if we need the engine at all?!! Slider's latest has me very curious too.

@lasersabre:

I've always wondered: those bulbs you have, the 110VAC LEDs, did you ever determine if they were of the smps/transformer based step down, or purely capacitive.. i'm wondering if the capacitive (though usually considered cheaper) may hold a bit of reasoning why they mate to that circuit so well. I have several 2W bulbs, but all have a little switch-down circuit in them.

[Harvester]

Hi,

Somewhere I have read that Sir Bedini apparently rectifies his charger
output, so that the batteries can still be charged using normal chargers.

I have build a slightly modified version of http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post169957 circuit and have
rectified the output and added a cap to it.
I also read somewhere that a cap at the output apparently helps the
charging process. I wander if I have mixed up too many posts I have read

The charger input is 12V 1.25A and the output is 235V without load and
when hooking it up to a battery, then the voltage reduces to ~87V.
The 12V lead acid car battery is 13 years old and only shows 10.5V.

When using normal radiant charging, the battery gets hit with short high V
pulses, right?
My setup should still have the pulses, but keeps the charging voltage
at over 80V. Or does rectifying the output modify the radiant charge?

I am a bit worried that the battery will come apart at 80V. When shorting
the output cap, it gives a descent(!!) spark.

The question now is, am I on the right track, or have I build a battery killer?

[SkyWatcher]

Hi harvester, a capacitor in parallel with sulphated battery seemed to help with my tests.
bedini mentions that using a 1 ohm resistor on the flyback output, instead of the charge battery and if you measure 1 volt or less across 1 ohm resistor, your radiant charger output should be ok for any size batteries.
peace love light

[Joit]

Hi Harvester, about that Cap, we had a Discussion about it, that some placed Caps to the charge Side, but 'Sir Bedini ' said, it eats the Spike also the Backspike to the Positive from the run Batterie,
And as you see, the Caps charges up in slow Steps up to your 80V, by me its 130 Volts, and i think, that allways depends on the Size from the Coil, thickness and windings. But that way you get a pulsed charger, the Spikes itself come down to a average Value, When they are 80 V but only a few mA, the Voltage is slowed down throught the resistance from the Batterie, like you let it run over a Resistor, and you get a average Watt Value, or ie, 5 Volt 20 mA.
It may works different at all J. Bedinis Devices, but the one you all build here are mostly like this.
Anyway i would discharge the Cap all time before you connect a Charge Batt, because its quite some Energy what is stored in a Cap.
But a Cycle from the Pulse are may then given with the Size from the Cap and its discharge Rate.

[Harvester]

Thanks for you quick replies.
Needed to try out some changes before replying myself.

I changed from a 12V 9AH battery to a 12V 1.5A power supply and
ran the test for 4 hours last night and then another 13 hours today.
Last night the battery went from 10.5V to 12.34V and in the morning it was down to 11.64V again.

@SkyWatcher
I have tried the 1 Ohm and 1 Volt value, but the charging rate went down
quiet a bit. Input was 12V at 0.78A and the battery voltage while charging
was showing only 12.34V.

@Joit
Interesting....it seems to work for SkyWatcher.
Leaving out the cap, according to your theory, also makes sense.
A cap would smooth out voltage peaks, right......... which I do not really want.
Wander if the spikes can hit the battery, before the cap can take action?

Today's test:
Left out the cap on the charging side.
For some reason I only get a charge voltage shown to be around 12.3V.
Yesterday before writing my last post it was 87V.
Surely the battery cannot recover that quickly.

To make sure it is not the power supply, I have hooked up the battery again.
It does "sound" different, having a power supply or battery hooked up!!!
I have a power supply from a notebook - 19V at 4.4A. Would this work as
well, or would this be too much Voltage?

I increased input current (using battery) to 2A, but the charging V only climbed up to 12.54V. Without battery attached, it climbs to 334V.

Sooo many variables.........