Joule Ringer!

[PhysicsProf]

Peanutbutter, I find we are on the same page!

For me, again. I really got into this relating to prepping and this is stuff part of it too. I am not normally a type to post, but I have a compulsion, from somewhere, to do it. I'm just hoping to help if possible.

I think the mains-grid at some point will be toasted, probably by EMP, and we want folks to have LIGHT. Maybe I'm being pessimistic, but when a super-duper bomb is built like the "High-altitude EMP weapon", , then history tells us it's likely to be used... BUT we can prepare and help others too. Hence, running on 12V DC... prepared to do it, anyway.

Now -- I've made some progress today after the "honey-do's" were done.
The best I could do this morning was about 23 Lm/W. Well, I managed to double that. Here's how.

First, I finally rec'd a couple of high-efficiency bulbs I'd ordered, and these run at about 1 W using the mains and put out nearly 80 Lumens in the light box -- 80 Lm/W, which is great! So I used this bulb, and immediately the yield with the AIR core SJR-2.0 jumped up to about 40 Lm/ W. I varied the voltage; here is near the optimum voltage, 9V, with changing only the bulb from previous runs this morning:

9V in; 0.8 A, so 7.2 W in.
3700 Lux in the light box, times 0.08 (my calibration-conversion factor for this box) = 296 Lumens.
296Lm/7.2W = 41 Lm/W -- not bad.
PS -- freq = 157 KHz; V-rms output = 104 V with this load.

Note: at 12V, I get just 29 Lm/W... So there is some tuning associated with varying the voltage. A broad maximum -- from 7V to 9V input, the yield stays near 40 Lm/W.

OH -- note that the bulb says it is for 220V, 50 Hz -- but it works just fine with the above conditions! Someone asked about that; I think it was Jules. Here's the bulb I'd now recommend, Jules:
Cheap E27 1.5W 36 LED 252LM White Light LED Light Bulb AC180~240V;50HZ,5500~6000K | Everbuying.com
-- and only $8.93 each if you buy 2...
It does not put out the Lm/W advertised on-line, but at about 80 Lm/W measured in my light box, it is better than other LED bulbs I've tested (typically 55-65 Lm/W).

Next, I tried a trick used by Lynx earlier, I compressed the primary winding down to about 3" along the base of the coil -- so it covers now maybe 1/4 of the secondary coil... starting to look like a Tesla coil now.

Results -- my best to date -- follow:
9V in; 0.33 A, so 3 W in.
1990 Lux in the light box, times 0.08 (my calibration-conversion factor for this box) = 159 Lumens.

159Lm/3W = 53 Lm/W -- a big improvement from 23 max this morning!

PS -- freq = 178 KHz; V-rms output = 84 V with this new bulb and the primary coil concentrated at the bottom.

Whew! (PS -- I'm not claiming OU at this stage!!)

[Slider2732]

@All
A laugh first...I kept refreshing the previous page this evening and missed everyones posts on this page

If I may address the thumbing issue, as I see it too.
b_rads wrote

I have gotten thumbs down as well and they have all come from Canada

The description text of my Romero coil vid says the same thing: RomeroUK Special Coil Test - YouTube
Specifically, that someone in Canada attempted to thumb down 6 times !
I had no reservations in calling out that situation on the video description. I'm probably feeding such troll behaviour, but will not be attacked in such a fashion and merely take it, with no explanation from the person.
Now, OK, so I was animated in that video, but it's hardly an issue to be excited when discovering something for the self.
The very fact that such clowns hide in the shadows leads to a non caring of their objectives - i have no interest in appeasing people who hide. As with many other people here, the interest is with those who may benefit from the content of a video...as they wish for me to be helped by posting theirs. If something is indeed rubbish, i'll get to know...by lack of views or comments or whichever way.
At the end of the day, these are not TV channels, with expected production standards.
Do bear in mind - people are actively employed to disrupt discussion boards and videos online. Take a search on such matters.
The Canadian person may get a '+1" for being mentioned here, by whatever covert rubbish is going on.
Teamwork is where we're at, a club in some regards - does the person in Canada have a friendship problem ? has he an unfulfilled need to be 'Liked' on Facebook ? who cares ?
We share, we discuss, we further ideas and builds....forget the thumbing down, it's a character problem that is not ours

@PhysicsProf - Great results and the European voltage spec raised an eyebrow or two, that is good news. I compressed the windings on my Lynxsteam variant and it actually decreased effectiveness markedly. It seemed somewhat tunable with ferrite in the end, again a lot like small Tesla towers. I'll reread all those figures above in a minute, probably 4 times at this hour lol.

@Pb, please do consider staying around. Your postings and persona are no lead weight around here

[PhysicsProf]

Some of you realize there is a parallel discussion going on over at EF.
Let me call your attention to parallel work done by Brad_S, on which I also comment -- here (if you wish):

Joule Ringer!

Note that his light box looks a lot like mine. even uses the same Lux meter (available from Amazon for less than $19 last time I checked).
His Lumens/Watt ratios come out close to mine also; so we might say the measurements are "checking out" quite well.

Now to press forward to higher MEASURED Lm/W!

[PhysicsProf]

That Lux meter is now just $13.30 at Amazon - Prime shipping too.

Amazon.com: Light Meter LX1010B,50,000 Lux Luxmeter with lcd display: Home Improvement

You could have it in two days...

[Lidmotor]

Positive and negative feedback

@All
It is a puzzle why people "like" or "dislike" the work we are doing. I took a look this morning at some other people's videos on Youtube to see if what is happening to me is also happening to them. You are right ----I'm not alone and someone in Canada is jerk. I also have several people here in the US that are doing "hidden jerk" thing. Lasersaber has gotten quite a bit of negative feedback on some of his videos. Sooooo --- I think that we should just be thick skinned and ignore it. If the negative feedback, however, is stated in a comment or a posting and proves to be valid then that actually helps us. Nobody wants to spend time and money on a wild goose chase. The Romero Muller project was an example of something gone terribly wrong. A bunch of people were fooled and much time and money was wasted.

Positive feedback, like happens most of the time on these endeavors, really helps. It keeps the energy level up and speeds the development of the project.

Lidmotor

[Peanutbutter29]

First, I'm bad at times thanking, so thank you all for comments or understanding.
Also, @ Lidmotor I agree with thick skin, and generally don't care what people think (I have dirty or longer nails in videos, oh my). In some ways, I consider the "trolls" (hate that term) the BEST groupies one can get. Heck even though they put a dislike, they are probably around longer than most.

I guess people know I say what I think by now. I suppose its one of the AS aspects I use as an advantage. I don't have fear of life or people, which allows me to screw myself. Of course, if necessary and in reality; that's all what will be done if analyzed. I suppose then, it's either something I feel important; or that I'm a complete moron (possible).

@PhysicsProf.
-about future power worries I wonder if many are at this same conclusion in one way or another.
- My best version, is the 1.0 for efficiency. The main reason (1.1 aside) that I was able to get decent with other designs; is better understanding some of the characteristics of the circuit and how the tranny plays in. Essentially "Tuning" where that is not as easily allowed, relative to the transformer (since other circuit variables remain generally the same, bulb, transistor, bias etc).

-With the light box, I agree around 8% is probably end optimal accuracy. We couldn't get down to meter % without Excluding any reflected / refracted / blocked light I would assume.

- For your replication. Uhhhhh. You would have to ask Lidmotor what he feels is the best bulbs for his circuit as I do not know where his system will be best. Again, it's not mine; so I cannot say.

- Last ty for clarification on test parameters. Another moment.
Uhhhhh. Not dimmable? Ya, I'm not sure very many are using those; definitely not Myself, Laser, Lid or Lynx at the least.
I stated on one video that I feel dimmable is preferred over non. Though different in operation, this is why PC's draw a huge current before (or if) they don't start; and draw much less once "Driven" properly.

If we assume simply that that the internal circuit is playing a role; then would there be a difference in dimmable, non-dimmable? Also would there be a difference in Mfg. relative to circuit design itself? (remember 30% rule, cannot be another bulb unless it is patentable)

Before, less agreeable things; the dimmable would probably raise your numbers some. Since most in the US are running utilitech dimmable; maybe try those. That may help Lynx numbers some .

In general with bulbs. If you compare most high output LEDs Cool white is higher Lu/W than Warm White; there is your difference. I feel daylight is a better color then, but that's partial to prior marine knowledge. Put a warm white on a plant or fish tank; very bad, poor spectrum, plants die and algae grows. Put a daylight on, everything is fine.

We should compare then, what IS daylight. Of course a full spectrum that ONLY "NO, HO, VHO fluorescents" can reproduce to some degree. Sun is a nice arc through out the visible spectrum. Most light sources are very "peaky" in particular ranges, and even daylights just get that way by "countering the red with blue".
Why would this benefit anything? Well plants have 2 types of Chlorophyll and carotene that use particular ranges. There is more photosynthetic activity in the lower (blue) range, but note "nature" is allowing for both.
People always talk about UV with blue and being bad, however Vitamin D (only attained naturally from the sun) is produced in our skin; optimally just below 300nm. This is well into the UV range and also requires 25mw of this to "start-up" appx.

There are other aspects, that we don't need here CRI, PAR, etc. However you are seeing color temperature more, so that is. Color temp (In K) is NOT a relation of "Spectrum" but total temp of the bulb. As a result of this, more blue = higher kelvin. This is largely evident in marine (since, water being blue, filters THAT first) where up to 20,000K bulbs are used. These of course have very poor CRI, but decent PAR for their application.

So, to summate here; the sun is 5500K appx., but if you make bulbs @ that; depending on style, it still has a poor CRI compared to daylight. Since our light sources are "peaky" we have to bump K up (more blue). So, usually 6500K range ends up with best CRI to be called daylight. Yes, this will also have a PAR better than warm white (low K) too, but custom application bulbs are preferred for best PAR there.

Finally, since we want the most "useable" light for the least amount; it follows that a higher CRI is wanted, as with daylight compared to warm white.

now I get to be hated at my own stake, but should be said also.

-I've said that these circuits are different if they vary, right. So, I'm NOT one to say This is the Same as That. However, I feel a bit bad for Lasersaber with Lynx in particular. Here, there are no circuit changes and even runs identical cores to what LS showed (on the left of his 2.0 video expressed as "upcoming improvements). In a legal sense this is not 30% and using shown "prior art" for operation. Sure, there was a thought of resonance; which I stated to him and here cannot be. Sure, there was a gutted period or even Compact period that has been found less efficient. I dunno, like I said; just seems like he's taking what Laser showed as next. I wonder if this relates to not getting to see more Laser videos, as I'd like to.
I guess I looked first at noise, then heat, then frequency (no RF), then tuning. I tried to stay OFF what Laser was doing, most notably, of course, using off the shelf trannies. Most importantly though with "tuning".

-Second and larger screw (I'm sure here). @ Lidmotor. Please do NOT relate Bedini with any of this stuff!
I only knew of him from YT videos before getting into crystal cells (and learning he's still around etc) I'd seen some motor replications and knew "of" a bedini motor; but nothing else. My personal thought on it, was no OU; awful hard on circuit aspects and a bit against nature. It was not until crystal cells that I learned all of what he's done and claimed. I'd seen earth batteries from Lasersaber, but knew those were used in early times; I didn't connect that he was claiming an invention there.
I will bite my tongue but only say I am utterly horrified at some of what has been "pulled" off and people buy.


Last I DO want to add, the few channels I watched completely before getting into research, I subscribed to. There are many great people, but these were one's who caught my attention and interest for various reasons. Dutchsinse, Lasersaber, Lidmotor, Gotoluk, Skycollection, GregorAurturo85, Diveflyfish, Jiffycoil and more recent PMMG4HYBRID.

I'm sure I'll subscribe to more and have already, but I'd like to acknowledge that I have utmost respect for these people for various reasons. Of course this is not to exclude people, but give props to those from before I started.

Sorry to have some negative,
Thanks, PB

EDIT: since PhysicsProf showed the scope from the Lynx and a couple others are starting; I've remade one of my scope video's public again from the SJRC 1.1. I would assume that waveform is what your looking for, if "tuned". SJRC v1.1 Scope shots B-E and Output. Also running circuit on 12v battery. Verifications - YouTube

[Slider2732]

Was good to see those scope shots...not a simple shape at all. Informative video

Just popped in to our local Walmart and they have the 7.5W bulbs with the silver fluted bases and round domes. $11.97 but at least are seemingly being wider stocked than just Lowes.
Picked up some solder though from Walmart, our RS doesn't carry lead free. The Walmart tube says RoHS compliant, Rosin core, but doesn't cite lead...am I correct in thinking it is lead free ?

Finally found the adapter for the 2W and 1W LOA LED bulbs. They have tiny bases otherwise, that don't fit normal bulb holders.
The reading on the 2W was 1.382V on my homemade solar lightbox toilet roll thing. The bulb didn't look to be driven very hard at all when on mains. Next is to see what the figures are for various circuits.

On the Joule Thief type simple switcher in my last vid and using a 1980's transistor from a cash register (HB B122, good luck finding that datasheet !) -
1.313V on 12V @ 80mA 0.96W
1.684V on 12V @ 390mA 4.68W
So it just shows that sometimes these little bulbs are being 'overdriven' compared to stock mains.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, here is my boxed up super joule ringer 2.0 using standard transformer.
2n3055 with 100kohm base to positive resistor to start oscillations.
12 volt battery input at 1.2 amps.
15 watt cfl, non-modified.
I am using cfl because I don't have any of those AC led bulbs.
It's a nice emergency light, should be good for at least 6 hours on one of these batteries.
Super Joule Ringer 2.0 using standard transformer - YouTube


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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peace love light
tyson

[blackchisel97]

Just replicated Lidmotor setup using wall wart transformer with center tap. I only changed connection from the base diode to the center tap but 100nF cap as per diagram. The only LED lamp I have is 2W. It runs like a charm. At 76mA/12V I'm getting nice ringing and 130V spikes. I'll play a bit more tomorrow since is past 3am here. I copied three circuits into one sheet for anyone who wants to try it. Thanks for the inspiration guys and don't worry about negative feedback on UT. I'm also from Canada and I never voted down someone's video. If I don't like I just don't watch. You always have 5 stars from me. Period

Thanks for good info Matt. Something to think about.
Cheers
V

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...uperJoule2.jpg

[totoalas]

Super SSG less Battery + Alum Batt to SJR 260512

Hi to all

Only 6 months ago I dreamt of Off grid power supply and Now comes to reality Thanks to Blackchisel Minoly Lidmotor and Xee2 / Lasersaber
My SSG powered by a 10 w solar monocrystalline less battery going to the Alum Battery with Super Joule Ringer Load great result

Another set up SSG supplied with solar charged 12 v dc sla going to SJR without battery bank load
@ less than 100 mA input and output 12 v dc 110 mA 80 % brightness

With Set up 1 AND 1 VOLT CONSUMPTION FOR 16 HOURS DAY AND NIGHT LIGHTING HOW ABOUT THAT NAYSAYERS

TOTOALAS


[IMG=http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1639/solarssgsjralumbatt2605.jpg][/IMG]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[totoalas]

Hi to all

Only 6 months ago I dreamt of Off grid power supply and Now comes to reality Thanks to Blackchisel Minoly Lidmotor and Xee2 / Lasersaber
My SSG powered by a 10 w solar monocrystalline less battery going to the Alum Battery with Super Joule Ringer Load great result

Another set up SSG supplied with solar charged 12 v dc sla going to SJR without battery bank load
@ less than 100 mA input and output 12 v dc 110 mA 80 % brightness

With Set up 1 AND 1 VOLT CONSUMPTION FOR 16 HOURS DAY AND NIGHT LIGHTING HOW ABOUT THAT NAYSAYERS

TOTOALAS


[IMG=http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1639/solarssgsjralumbatt2605.jpg][/IMG]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

tHIS IS FOR SET UP 1
Solar SSG less battery going to ALUM BATT/ SJR LOAD 260512 - YouTube

[PhysicsProf]

Nice work, Skywatcher, blackchisel, and totoalas et al...

I also completed a build. Results were less than spectacular, since I have a severe transistor-heating problem. I could only run for very short times.

I used the 120V -to- 12V Radio Shack transformer recommended by Peanutbutter and a 3055 transistor, and a 3 W LED bulb, and the LED indicator recommended by Lidmotor. Lots of good ideas...
Over short times, I measured about 90-100 Lux (approx 8 Lumens) is all... with 10V in and 0.9 A. Obviously, I have not found that "sweet spot"... Roughly 1 Lm/W -- nothing to write home about.

I tried a small audio amplifier also: borrowed from a neighbor, a young man who is an electronics wizard IMO. This promptly blew out the LED indicator light. I need to talk to him about this circuit...

Back to the drawing board. Since its a holiday and family are coming, not much time for further experiments this Memorial Day weekend... (sigh; but great to have family times together!)

[ehsanco1062]

Just replicated Lidmotor setup using wall wart transformer with center tap. I only changed connection from the base diode to the center tap but 100nF cap as per diagram. The only LED lamp I have is 2W. It runs like a charm. At 76mA/12V I'm getting nice ringing and 130V spikes. I'll play a bit more tomorrow since is past 3am here. I copied three circuits into one sheet for anyone who wants to try it. Thanks for the inspiration guys and don't worry about negative feedback on UT. I'm also from Canada and I never voted down someone's video. If I don't like I just don't watch. You always have 5 stars from me. Period

Thanks for good info Matt. Something to think about.
Cheers
V

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...uperJoule2.jpg

Hi blackchisel97

Nice work and thank you for posting these three circuit.

Ehsan

[blackchisel97]

Hi blackchisel97

Nice work and thank you for posting these three circuit.

Ehsan

My pleasure I bought 2 cree lamps last night but it will take some time for them to arrive from CN. I was going to run more test this morning but there is a power outage I'm running on batteries atm and I have a limit due to my DC/AC converter. All I can do is read

Cheers

V

[Lidmotor]

Cree's 152 lumen/watt LED bulb

@All
Here is a video that shows Cree's experimental 152 lumen/watt LED bulb. It is an interesting video because it explains a number of things. What we are working on he calls a "system solution".

It is three things:

1) Minimize thermal "blow off"

2) Maximize "optical output"

3) Maximize "energy conversion"

We are trying to convert electricity to as much light as we can without losing too much to heat.

Introducing Cree's 21st Century LED Lamp - YouTube

This video has about 25,000 hits, 57 "likes", and 7 "DISLIKES" !!!! I guess that most people just don't care and a few would prefer that this technology just go away.

@Blackchisel97
Thanks for posting those circuit diagrams

@PhysicsProf
Sorry to hear that you are having problems. It sounds like a wrong wiring or transistor problem maybe?

@Totolas
It is going to be people like you who bring this into the "DIY with what you can find realm", simply get the job done, and enjoy life a little better for themselves and their families.

@Peanutbutter
Ben (K4zep) on Youtube has done a replication of the Radio Shack transformer model using just one bulb and shows the scope wave forms. He doesn't think much of using caps on this simple model but he likes what he is seeing otherwise.

Joule Thief 2.0 Waveforms Using Radio Shack Transformer - YouTube

Here is his second video showing the circuit running on one half of the primary (6v) on the transformer. These numbers look really good to me.

Better Waveform - YouTube

I have watched his builds for years and I respect what he says. He works out of a little closet in his house ("The worlds smallest lab"). Ya gotta love that! At least I have a kitchen table.

Lidmotor