Joule Ringer!

[Zardox]

Hi folks, Hi harvester, yes, I am not using the 1n4148 diodes and I am just exchanging the 10uf capacitor for a 100uf.
I am using 6 resistors in parallel with that 100uf capacitor, 3-1kohm resistors in parallel and in series with another 3-1kohm in parallel, think they are 1/2 or 1 watt, so about 666 ohms total going into the main base diode, then I have 300 ohm resistors going to each transistor base.
Though all of those parts will be adjusted to your setup.
peace love light
tyson

Can you post a schematic for those of us not getting a mental picture? (me)

[Harvester]

No more smoke signals

Hi folks, Hi harvester, yes, I am not using the 1n4148 diodes and I am just exchanging the 10uf capacitor for a 100uf.
I am using 6 resistors in parallel with that 100uf capacitor, 3-1kohm resistors in parallel and in series with another 3-1kohm in parallel, think they are 1/2 or 1 watt, so about 666 ohms total going into the main base diode, then I have 300 ohm resistors going to each transistor base.
Though all of those parts will be adjusted to your setup.
peace love light
tyson

Tyson, you're 'da man!!
Ripped out the extra diodes and 10,20k resistors and increased the base resistors to 330 Ohm.
Now, when the circuit pulls 1.67A, there is no more smoke from the variable resistor

Still need to fiddle around with the values though, as my window of tuning still is very very small - ~10deg turn on the variable resistor.
The open circuit voltage is 650V now and the frequency is low and horrible.
Only takes a minute or two to get a headache from
What frequency are you running?

Considering I have an air core, the magnetic field at the end of the coil is very strong!!
I stuck the coil to the metal casing - flat side - and now wander if that will influence the field.
Should I lay the coil into the housing, so that the magnetic field at the end of the coil cannot interact with the case that much?
How have you guys mounted yours?

[PhysicsProf]

In response to a certain rant above, I have re-analyzed the calibration of my light-box described in some detail earlier in this thread.

I use the general formulas for the mean and for the standard deviation (see attached). I deduce from the data for my light box that the mean is 0.0793 (this is the calibration factor) and the standard deviation is 0.00249. Thus, one may see that the variance is small, 3.1%.

I trust this is acceptable, but would ask PB to provide similar numbers for his light box calibration.

For those interested, my web page provides a list of publications in peer-reviewed journals including Nature, Physical Review Letters and Scientific American.
Dr. Steven E. Jones

Overall, my sense is that efforts to contribute to the alternative-energy community and to humanity generally are better served by posting results in other venues; farewell.

[NickZ]

@Steven and All:
I am sad by what you just mentioned.
We all have our different opinions, test results, and view points, etz... This is normal and desirable.
But, the lack of kindness and consideration at times between us all, is not.
I have previously asked Lynx to stay on at OU, and PB here, and now this.
I know what you are feeling, as I have been confronted by similar situations, a time or two, myself. And sometimes I'm as much at fault, as anyone.
So, I will ask you, also, to reconsider, especially now as we are approaching the doorstep of a possible and very real break-through here.
Do this for US.

NickZ

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi harvester, I don't have measuring device for coil freq., though my air core coil is definitely over 60hz, a guess might be 500hz.
My air core coil is 5 strands, 1 trigger, the other 4 parallel-24 gauge strands are around 1.4 ohms total.
Hi zardox, Here is the circuit I am using for my radiant charger.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
peace love light
tyson

[Zardox]

Thank you kindly!

[Allen Burgess]

3.5 watt 120 volt vanity LED bulb.

The 2 watt bulb works extremely well with the 12 volt AA bundle. My local outlet has a wide assortment of 120 volt LED bulbs. I purchased and installed a 3.5 watt overhead vanity light, with a large glass ball. The light glows festivly! Pretty cool for ambiance in the boat cabin. I tried to light a CFL with the Jr 2.0; No dice!

My boxed version now includes 3 outlets. I can run Bow and Stern lights with extension cords from the same inverter, and have a cabin light too. I'm thrilled with the setup so far.

The rectifier has me wondering if the LED'S run off D.C. inside the bulb. I'll try and light them that way and see.

[area46241]

Another replication success...

The 2.0 joule ringer is a winner...my hat is off to you guys...i put a wall socket and switch box together with the radio shack 450mA transformer and two nights of bright light from lidmotors eightpack battery arrangement...its drawing about one hundred milliamps...not bad. Not bad at all it has the french inverter circuit beat by 200 milliamps however the transformer on the multivibrator inverter was the larger 3 amp 12 volt size...anyway great circuit got a pile of em now you guys are so much fun to learn from...Damon over and out.

[Peanutbutter29]

@PhysicsProf. I do not intend to repel you away from this. I won't point out these aspects further. My intentions are based in accuracy and hoping for a standard. I also hope a couple more people make your light box to further this as well.
You've got a nice page there and seem well accomplished. Myself, I'm a nobody and prefer it that way. I guess my first post into this community on OU stated this.

I feel that our disagreement is small in terms of our perspectives. I've stated that the box design works and works well! I'm just more along creating a calibration factor for bulb A and a separate for bulb B; rather than a single mean.

I looked at my tested bulb numbers and calibrations to see as you ask; hadn't really looked at the deviation yet. I do have many separate factors now, so that helps.
I'm pretty simple here and just used shown low and high verses calculated mean and it is interesting. First various factors. These factors are averages of all numbers and placement.
Incandescent & WW compact (60/13w)--- .201
Mystery light from MASS CELL (3.3w)-- .191
Utilitech 7.5w WW-- .184
Compact Daylight 13w--.177
Utilitech 7.5w Day (on 3-way adapters)--.169
Utilitech 7.5w Day-- .156

I guess the mean of the means from above would be .180. If we compare the high / low factors (.201-.156) we have a tested derivation of 11.5% High and 15.4% low.

So I tried a single bulb type and getting a mean of the various numbers and placements. Here I used the 7.5w Daylight from 1,2,4,6 Bulbs (6 point). From above mean is .156 and high / low is .167-.144. Here, with a single exact bulb type but including all number and placement variations; we have a smaller derivation. Here it is 7% High and 8% low.

Next I tried a single bulb type and single number (1), but with just placement variations. I used 7.5w WW Utilitech and the mean for 1 bulb and placement variation is; .182 (3 point). the high / low for this combo is .179-.186. We end up then, with a single type and single number; only varying placement, with a derivation of 2.2% High or 1.6% low.

Finally, the only other possibility I can test; is variation among same bulb, same number and same placement. Here is basically the repeatability of the meter. On average this works out to 10 Lux per 2500. So, with this method of calibration the total "variation" is 0.4%.

Seems the derivation is largest with varying bulb types and wattage, smaller with varying numbers of a given type; smaller still, when only varying placement of a single type and single number. I guess when nothing is varied it's mostly the meter repeatability. There is, most likely, a change in factor relative to total lumen output from max (e.g. 60v-120v ac); most logically it would relate somewhat to varying only placement, however smaller. Appx. 1%. (what I state in video)

I hope I answered what you asked and again I'm not meaning to cause drama. It is very rare for me to be outspoken, though I doubt anyone would buy that here, lol. Again, I do not want to make you leave; as I'm the one that should be gone already. If I have offended you to make you feel unwelcome I must apologize. I agree that Nick is right, we all need to get along to move efficiently forward. I will try to do my part.

Thanks,
PB

[Allen Burgess]

Ad hominum.

Resorting to Ad hominum remarks and personal invective always points to the same deficiency in the instigator. Uncertain of fundamentals, it helps to start a food fight.

[totoalas]

Whats In A Box Amplification / Rfraction Of Light???

Bpth have achieved in amplifying the light output
thru the aluminum foil as a luminaire
Now time to move on to other media as well as shown by my example of different types ex old laser disc, mirror, bottle with water and bleach
this compensates for the not so bright output but with less amps to continue all night long with solar charged batteries
cmon guys we are on the right track and almost there
if a lux meter is already a luxury or a burden in my experiment ive demonstrated using the naked eye and actual light condition that ive achieved something
no more candles to burn my house or kill somebody
no more wandering in the dark
More food in the table
AND MOST OF ALL NO LIGHT BOX USED LOL
totoalas

[NickZ]

I just want to say that I'm more than pleased with all remarks, and contributions, all are valuable, very much so.
Thank you all,
Nick

[100mpg]

This is my first post in this message board as well as this topic. I'v built the SJR2 at posted on YouTube by peanutbuter (wish I knew why you removed your account) Anyway, I got pulled from this project due to the untimely demise of my HVAC condenser fan motor.
I'm back on it now and I'm planing on using a standard radioshack 120vac to 12vdc transformer to power the SJR2. I don't know if it will preform well enough to save some watts in my 1,2,4,5,& 8 bulb systems around my house, but I will use my kill-a-watt meter to see if it does. I then plan to install jacks so that in the event of a long term power failure, I can then run them in standard 12 volt batteries.

For me it is about getting my whole house to use as few watts as possible before going solar.

However my attic insulation project is slowing down the conversions of lamps & light fixtures in my house.

[Lidmotor]

Congratulations

The 2.0 joule ringer is a winner...my hat is off to you guys...i put a wall socket and switch box together with the radio shack 450mA transformer and two nights of bright light from lidmotors eightpack battery arrangement...its drawing about one hundred milliamps...not bad. Not bad at all it has the french inverter circuit beat by 200 milliamps however the transformer on the multivibrator inverter was the larger 3 amp 12 volt size...anyway great circuit got a pile of em now you guys are so much fun to learn from...Damon over and out.

Congratulations on your successful replication. My findings were the same about this beating the French inverter as far as a lighting device. Both are useful though. My little battery pack idea has worked out well for me also. It is just a simple power source solution that works.

I am now trying to build a homemade battery that will drive this thing. It can be done but the question is whether or not it is worth the effort.

It is just something fun to try.


Lidmotor

[totoalas]

hOME MADE BATTERY

Congratulations on your successful replication. My findings were the same about this beating the French inverter as far as a lighting device. Both are useful though. My little battery pack idea has worked out well for me also. It is just a simple power source solution that works.

I am now trying to build a homemade battery that will drive this thing. It can be done but the question is whether or not it is worth the effort.

It is just something fun to try.


Lidmotor

Hi Lidmotor
Thats what Im thinking also any kind as long as it WORKS
Ive read about marine type aluminum batteries they call it alum bath batteries using sea water as electrolyte
How about House ground or earth ground as Tesla says its every where
Your penny oscillator is a good starting point


totoalas