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We have had much luck w/ a trifiler wind, feeding the 3rd winding back into the battery Bedini/Cole style. our amp meter shows we are using 340 mA but the voltage does not go down more than if we were using 1-2 mA. we are using one of our windowmotor windings, wound to run a windowmotor - turn a shaft. the light is fairly bright 15w type. then we use a choke to delay current, increase spike. this has a strobe effect w/ greater light intensity and less voltage drop. fun stuff.
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Lasersaber,
youre last video is very interesting from the following standpoint....
a 32,000uF cap charged to 20V contains 6.4 Joules
leaving the 5 CFL's out for the moment, you have 80 LED's...assuming they are fully bright ( i know they werent, but bare with me for ease of calculations ).. gives us
2V & 0.015 A per LED (reasonable figures for an LED i think ) = 2.4 Watts
or to phrase another way, having them fully lit for 1 second would burn 2.4 Joules from the cap, or 37% of whats in the cap for just 1 seconds worth of light.
The fact that you got them to light for 5 minutes or so is impressive.
However, they werent fully bright, also, LED's can fool the eye making you think they are lit continuously where-as in fact they are flickering faster than the eye can register it.....also, baring in mind that the JT circuit is an oscillator by nature.
a suggestion if i may?
instead of LED's and CFL's as a load, could you simply take your output wires through to a FWBR, then onto another cap with a resistor of reasonably high wattage rating (so it doesnt heat up) across the cap...and measure the voltage across the resistor....this will give a definitive measure of your output.....and since you know your input ( Joules = 1/2 * C * V^2 )......it would enable a clearer picture of whats happening to be formed.
Good Stuff, thanks.
David. DLast edited by rave154; 01-10-2011, 04:03 PM.
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Actually this is great.
Originally posted by LaserSaber View Post
Excellent observations and yes lets keep experimenting with this. Obviously we are onto something here.
Be waiting for the new schematic LaserSaber. Oh and this time I will be building from it. Make it your best configuration and lets see how easy it is to replicate. By the way how is your air battery coming along? The big one?
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Hey everyone, I got tired of jumping around everyone's pages on youtube, so I went ahead and made a new account called JouleRinger.
The Account info is [User name: jonathan_michel32@yahoo.com] [Password: jouleringer]
Let me know if you do not want your video's posted on the account, or just remove them yourself.
It would really be nice if everyone could post videos about any progress with this circuit on there
Either way, I'll continue to update the account whenever I have some spare time.
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I like your idea but I prefer to keep my videos on my channel. In the past I've had problems when others copied my videos (such as them selling scam information in connection with my video). I'm not worried that you or anyone here would do so, but I'd prefer to stick to my policy. Besides that, I also make a small amount from the ads that play on the bottom of my videos. It's not much, but it helps pay for wire and other stuff I use in the experiments. What I did do is go and add my joule ringer videos as favorites in your youtube channel. That should accomplish the same goal. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Best regards,
LaserSaber
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Yeah probably not a good idea.
I agree. When I start making video's I will control the Video presentation. It is very easy to follow a thread and view the video's by the method we have been using, well others have been using. When I start I am gonna want control over the video storage. Weather it be youtube or another service it is imperative that you are able to control the content or even be able to protest censorship of that content. Especially in this kind of a format we are using here, Energetic Forum.
Trust me if we do break the code to free energy there will be censorship. If the video doesn't have a clear owner then it makes it hard to fight for it to be not censored.
@LaserSaber On that note I do enjoy the video's you have made. Very clear and articulate as to what you are observing. I must beg you to make a video on the Bifiliar wound coil and it's construction. For the simple fact that when I started my career in electronics, computers just started to come about. Unfortunately I went the route of the Computer Technician and lost a good amount of the advanced electronics I should have been learning. This has left me with lower then average skill with electronics on the component level. I have the theory down but my workable skill is rather low yet. Don't get me wrong I have high skills in soldering and a fair amount of knowledge of the individual components but this building coils didn't make it on the skill list. Most of the time I wind it backwards or in the wrong direction (clockwise and counter clockwise). My knowledge of the clockwise is rather lacking and maybe a clear concise video made by you could do the whole group wonders. I know I would like to see such a video.
What I know about bifilar coils is that the magnetic field is balanced out or cancels and leaves the electric field unchanged or in some cases enhanced. This electric field takes very little effort to modulate and thats why we are seeing the exciter like properties to the modulated radiated electric fields.
I know that the bifilar is key in this unbalanced field generator and capacitance is key as well. What I don't know is how you are building your coils. Obviously you are doing something right and I would like to see you build one so that I know I can say for sure I'm doing mine right or in your style.
Thanks for considering it,
JBignes5
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Originally posted by rave154 View PostLasersaber,
youre last video is very interesting from the following standpoint....
a 32,000uF cap charged to 20V contains 6.4 Joules
leaving the 5 CFL's out for the moment, you have 80 LED's...assuming they are fully bright ( i know they werent, but bare with me for ease of calculations ).. gives us
2V & 0.015 A per LED (reasonable figures for an LED i think ) = 2.4 Watts
or to phrase another way, having them fully lit for 1 second would burn 2.4 Joules from the cap, or 37% of whats in the cap for just 1 seconds worth of light.
The fact that you got them to light for 5 minutes or so is impressive.
However, they werent fully bright, also, LED's can fool the eye making you think they are lit continuously where-as in fact they are flickering faster than the eye can register it.....also, baring in mind that the JT circuit is an oscillator by nature.
a suggestion if i may?
instead of LED's and CFL's as a load, could you simply take your output wires through to a FWBR, then onto another cap with a resistor of reasonably high wattage rating (so it doesnt heat up) across the cap...and measure the voltage across the resistor....this will give a definitive measure of your output.....and since you know your input ( Joules = 1/2 * C * V^2 )......it would enable a clearer picture of whats happening to be formed.
Good Stuff, thanks.
David. D
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Don't know but a normal JT can not do this. Usually even a single LED will die
in a few seconds. So we have to make some wild guess here.
First the cap is 32,000uf rated 20 volts. He used 3 pp3 batteries to recharge it
but in the last video he said they were all virtually flat. lets suppose they
can reach the cap rating of 20 volts = 6.4 joules.
This is the same as 6.4 watts for one second.
However there are lots of lights and LEDS here albeit not that bright. For ease
of guessing lets suppose each CFL consumes 1 watt each and so does the LED
clusters. Chances are its higher than this but anyhow 5 cfl = 5 watts and 2 led
cluster 2 watts total consumption 7 watts.
You can see at a glance this circuit should not be able to run for more than
about ONE second and use all the 6.4 joules. AND this assumes ALL of the cap can
be drained to zero volts. In practice the circuit will die around 2 volts. A JT
is actually only about 70% efficient under lab conditions of measuring real
power IN versus load out.
Again i will round off to best guess and presume only 5 joules actually gets
converted to the load allowing for losses and circuit shut down. He says it last
5 mins so 5 * 60 = 300 * 7 watt load = 2,100 joules.
So where does it get the other 2093 joules from?
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BOLT,
i agree with your calculations and somewhat with your deductions..but still think that my suggestion will help clear things a little
p.s as well as a resistor acorss the output cap...you may want to include at least 1 LED or Diode in case the diode properties of the LED's plays an important part......this will mess up the power calculation a bit....but should still be an interesting & simple test to perform.
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Originally posted by Jbignes5 View PostI know that the bifilar is key in this unbalanced field generator and capacitance is key as well. What I don't know is how you are building your coils. Obviously you are doing something right and I would like to see you build one so that I know I can say for sure I'm doing mine right or in your style.
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It's oscillating isn't it?
You are forgetting that this is an oscillator. It is passing many many times trough the leds and cfls.. There is one thing that I have gotten is that at some point these cfl's and leds run on virtually what is in my body. I have been able to activate and light up a diode just by presenting a virtual ground (my body) to it when using the joule thief. Quite puzzling really. So these devices have another method or mode to running at higher efficiency because there is very little to loose in this energy. when you take a current limited device like a small battery and use a coil to boost that to huge voltages there is very little for that to loose. All of the normal responses to the different components we use work better and have very little to loose and almost zero heat produced after the potential has been raised.
The only component that doesn't change in my opinion is the capacitor. I think that has always been a converter to potential storage only. This is how it's capacitance works and I think it is what LaserSaber has figured out as well.
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True...
Originally posted by xee2 View PostI have a lot of experience making bifilar coils and a very good electronics background, but I can not duplicate LaserSaber's results either. This thread has a lot of very experienced builders and none of them have been able to duplicate his results. So I do not think you should feel that you do not understand enough electronics, there is some key to this that is not obvious even to experts.
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This thread has a lot of very experienced builders and none of them have been able to duplicate his results. So I do not think you should feel that you do not understand enough electronics, there is some key to this that is not obvious even to experts.
I guess I will need to make a DIY video showing how to build one of these from scratch. In that video I could also show how I make the bifilar coils.
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thanks . that would be very nice of you Some of us know about tuning . tuning what ? I have scope shots and have the same wave as you showed in the video . The only tuning i see is the transistor frequency and i can tune it to the specs of whatever the transistor has all the way down or up . I have even seen the circuit run on a bifialar without one of the wires connected to the diodes . you can only go so low on the input on a fuji before it's output is not strong enuff . Maybe my problem is i am used to running stuff with 1.2 volts and lower as the original circuit is made for . . BUT i have tried it with 12 volts and dies instantlyalso on larg blue cap like you got . . granted i dont have the 330000uf or 10000ufcaps like your first video which i have had working the first hour after you released the schematic . , Yes a video would be great especially now that you are not using leaky diodes .
Albert
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