Joule Ringer!

[Jbignes5]

Well... Hmmm...

I might be all wrong about this, but if the coils work, do you think that there might end up being a decay in the performance of them over time? I am only
suggesting this because aluminum batteries did not have a very long life. Also
these Joule ringers might have the same fate over time if the aluminum in the
caps decay.

On another note, have you tried magnesium for your shakes. A friend of mine
in California got rid of his by using it.

FRC

We can coat the aluminum to stay off corrosion and yes I think Electrolytic caps have a lifespan. They decay like everything else does. They age in effect. When you use a capacitor the way it is designed to work then yes they stay strong. But let it sit for years and they can loose some of thier punch. Age does have an effect on the aluminum but I think electrically it doesn't do a thing to aluminum. This is no mere aluminum battery. We can also immerse the coil in oil to protect the aluminum from oxidation if need be if only used for amplifying voltages. There will be no connection to the circuit to the aluminum itself. It's purpose is the same as Iron would be for magnetic fields, only to focus the electric field. What this effect does I have not tested. Hell it could do nothing but just seeing how a magnet acts when it is slid down an aluminum plate makes me think, there is something going on there. Both fields must be present in a magnet and they interact differently with but show the same effect for each type of metal.

Since a bifilar cancels the magnetic effect when used right it would seem that the other field (electric) is not hindered. This is the exciter effect. Since traditionally copper is used to create the magnetic field it also creates an electric field and if we used the coil in such a way it would only emit an electric field. Once this field is established it takes very little to modulate it but it has a greater force when received close to the source.

Since evidence is collecting that the can of the electrolytic is a greater source of this energy, example Lidmotor's videos, I am starting to think that aluminum can channel this energy with a focusing effect better then most metals. Well that and it is where the conversion is being done besides the Bifilar.

Thats brings up the thought of using aluminum wiring for the coils but I have not even established that aluminum is a key player here. I see evidence that it is but more testing will conclude either way.

[seth]

@everybody
I started using a tip31 and an avromenko plug feeding back to the Cap from the lights. With this setup I can run it on well over 100V input with no problems. The tip31 stays stone cold. I will show it in my next video.

Tip 31? I have some! Cant wait for the vid. Need to rewind the coil though - mines rubbish.....perhaps not long enough, perhaps the wire is too thin, perhaps copper and copper of the same thickness aint that great. I also need to get precisely the same CFL . Am I right in thinking....

steel floral wire. (26AWG??)
enamelled copper wire. (26AWG??)

8 watt (?)spiral CFL....(any particular brand?? i notice that brand can make a difference when i put bulbs near my exciter)

Thanks for any help.

Well done Lid. Well done Xee. Well done everyone!

[Lidmotor]

Bifilar coil

@Xee2
I didn't measure the lenght but is was about 75 ft. or less. As Lasersaber mentioned, the exact specs for the bifilar coil are not cirtical and several of the ones that I had already made worked just fine. I wanted to make this particular small one because it is made with iron and copper wire. Some strange things happen with this arrangement plus it was small enough to mount on a small circuit board or in a small box. There are lots of things that you can try at the open ends of that bifilar coil. I might even try Lasersaber's dried orange peel idea. I tried a piece of banana peel this morning and it worked pretty good.

@ Lasersaber
Thanks again for sharing this project with the world. This is a good one. I agree with you that many of these projects have a common element and it is an interesting puzzle fitting them together. The "exciter" (electrostatic) effect found on this Fuji Cam setup opens up a whole new area to look into.
I'm glad that you tried a TIP31 on this and it worked. Using an AV plug to run energy back into the drive cap is really interesting. This starts getting into Dr. Stiffler's exciter realm. From what I've learned, you will not be able to directly link it back. It will have to be a capacitive link of sorts to work. Just my thoughts.

Lidmotor

[FRC]

Jbignes5

I found this on an old thread when I was trying to search (if I remember correctly) for someone who used aluminum wire to build a Newman motor.Could not find it.

[QUOTE]
I was wondering about aluminum wire used for a magnetic coil are there any advantages?
Im trying to read books on electricity and i just found and old one called the "Handbook of Electronic Engineering" MacGraw-Hill 10th edition. It has a section solinoids with steel plungers. They mentioned using aluminum for high temperture plunger coils. They said that you could use bare aluminum wire and the heat would form an oxidized insulator. I was just curious again.
[QUOTE]

Thought you might be interested.

FRC

[xee2]

@ Lidmotor
Thanks. I tried a 50 foot bifilar coil and was not able to get it to work with the transistor and transformer I am using. But I am begining to understand a bit about what is going on.

[minoly]

worlds collide

I'll say worlds collide, we just used an MJL21194 drove it w/ 24 volts using the second bifiler in series just before the negative lead. we put a 1n914 B,E and a neon C,E SG style. this thing oscillates like crazy, bright light and we can rectify the 2nd bifiler A'la "Tesla's Impulse" and pump it back to the cap bedini/cole style. it won't self run this way - but it does produce large amounts of light at 10ish mA this one is going in a box for sure.
this is crazy stuff.

[FRC]

Fuji ?

I'll say worlds collide, we just used an MJL21194 drove it w/ 24 volts using the second bifiler in series just before the negative lead. we put a 1n914 B,E and a neon C,E SG style. this thing oscillates like crazy, bright light and we can rectify the 2nd bifiler A'la "Tesla's Impulse" and pump it back to the cap bedini/cole style. it won't self run this way - but it does produce large amounts of light at 10ish mA this one is going in a box for sure.
this is crazy stuff.

Were you using the MJL21194 with the Fuji transformer in place of the burnt out Fuji transistor you were using before? Or was the transformer shot and
this was a different arrangement ?

FRC

[xee2]

This is another circuit without the bifilar coil. It will run for over 14 minutes from a 20,000 uF power capacitor charged to 12 volts (but tube is very dim). I think I am begining to understand how this works. Attached is a scope shot of the base-emitter voltage with power capacitor at 6 volts. The timing capacitor charges up until it reaches the turn-on voltage of the transistor base. Then the energy in the timing capacitor dumps into the transistor base and switches the transistor on for as long as the voltage in the capacitor stays high enough to keep transistor on (not long). When the transistor turns off it pushes current back through the base coil and timing capacitor returning the timing capacitor to 0 volts. Then the cycle starts again. Thus the timing capacitor sets the tube brightness and the resistor can then be adjusted to set the frequency. Note, increasing frequency will also increase brightness since tube gets lit more often.

So, what does this have to do with the Joule-Ringer circuit? I think that the same basic thing is happening but I do not understand what the bifilar coil does.

I am using a low gain transistor. Incrasing the transistor gain should reduce the size of the timing capacitor needed (because the same collector curent will flow with less base current needed). I think that maybe I could not get the bifilar coil to work because it did not have enough capacitance for my low gain transistor. I will try using a higher gain transistor.

[minoly]

Were you using the MJL21194 with the Fuji transformer in place of the burnt out Fuji transistor you were using before? Or was the transformer shot and
this was a different arrangement ?

FRC

Late start school this morning gave my son enough time to unsolder our last fuji transformer, we had already taken the trany off or we would have cut the board. so in short - same exact ckt that LS put up with the addition of his second bifiler as he described in his last vid - when you add the 1n914 across BE A'la SG this starts it's own rhythm. we only added the neon to protect it - should have done that w/ the fuji trany.
well I'm off to the store now perhaps I'll look for some of that floral wire.

PPS I think we fried another meter it's reading all over the place - I'll be picking up one of those also. so don't trust any of the numbers I posted about the voltage climbing. we did use an analog meter to see the 10mA on this one. so at least that should be accurate...

[7imix]

So, what does this have to do with the Joule-Ringer circuit? I think that the same basic thing is happening but I do not understand what the bifilar coil does.

winding a coil bifilar cancels it's inductance... So the coil is providing resistance from the wire and distributed capacitance. So the resistance of the amount and gauge of wire used plus the capacitance from winding it would determine the oscillation frequency.

It would be an interesting experiment to measure a working bifilar coil's resistance and capacitance with an LCR meter and replace it with the resistor/capacitor in parallel with the same values as the bifilar coil, and compare the waveforms to see if the bifilar coil adds anything extra over the resistor/cap combo.

I have some parts to replicate this, so I hope I can get it going and try this experiment.

[skaght]

aluminum core

I tried sliding an aluminum core into my bifilar for the joule ringer. The light brightness did not change and the current input stayed rock steady at 3.5 mA. There doesn't seem to be any improvement with aluminum...

[Jbignes5]

Yeah it was a shot in the dark..

I tried sliding an aluminum core into my bifilar for the joule ringer. The light brightness did not change and the current input stayed rock steady at 3.5 mA. There doesn't seem to be any improvement with aluminum...

I thought that would happen with the core. Now to check on the wiring of the bifilar as that is where the capacitance is formed. It might be that since aluminum doesn't react the the same with a magnetic field that it's other field is the electric field. The electric field probably would be the same rule set as the magnetic field but not bound to the magnetic field.

I was reading somewhere that there are two fields that are created at the same time. A magnetic and electric field. They are out of phase so to speak. 90 degrees is the common thought or is that 45 degrees? I can't remember for sure. But they follow the same rule set as is evident by sliding a magnet down both a copper and aluminum plate. Copper I believe is a heavy current carrier, thats it common usage but aluminum seems to be best suited for pure voltage. Although they both can use heavy current one is better suited for one or the other.

Also I never said that an aluminum core would drop the input or anything but increase or focus the electric field. Did you look for exciter type evidence while your coil had the core inside of it or even an amplification of the exciter effect? Did you try detecting the electric field with the Avramenko plug setup? Was it's field any different then with no core? These are some of the questions I would have asked while the core was inserted.

I have plans on making a special bobbin made of aluminum and even might do the extra mile of having different alloyed aluminum bobbins to see if there is a difference. Also I have been thinking that if aluminum acts the same as iron but for the electric field then we might have to add laminations to the core to break up the eddies in the same method that we use for a solid piece of iron for the magnetic field.

If we try the laminations would this make it a quasi capacitor in the center of our coil? Hmmm...

[skaght]

Avramenko plug and Al core

all right, so I tried sniffing around the coil and the circuit with an avramenko plug with and without an aluminum core. I didn't see any difference in the strength of the LED brightness with a simple plug tied to LEDs.

[kooler]

well i am getting closer..
i haven't had time to mess with in four days but been working with it tonight..
i can get a 10 second run now without the battery..
so i am going to wind a better coil soon.. the only transistor that i get a good run with is the 2sc2334 .. wish i could find transistor that is the same as that one.. they don't sell it no more..
i do have a roll of enamel coated alum wire .. do you think i should wind a bifilar coil with it.. its from 1972 so i didn't want to waste it..
might buy some 30awg to wind coils with..

but anyway..
good job everyone..

robbie

[skaght]

I just got a six minute run time with a 4 nF cap in parallel with two germanium diodes in series without a bifilar. I'd play with caps and resistors and/or diodes first to verify the circuit works...