Joule Ringer!

[Lidmotor]

Hand held Joule Ringer running on (1) 10,000uf cap

@Lasersaber & All
Ever since I saw your second video with that little CFL running away as you twirled it with your fingers----I wanted one. Well I had to change things a little but I have one now. I mounted the whole thing on one of those Electronic Goldmine camera units (took everything off but the transformer and transistor) and used just one 10,000uf / 10 volt electrolytic cap. Instead of the bifilar coil and diodes I used a .22uf cap and 470k ohm resistor in parallel. They go in place of the 220 ohm resistor on the board. I strung two extra wires off that to show the "finger touching " effect.
In the video the device is actually blinking but the camera really doesn't show it that well. The cap was charged with 9 volts and the CFL "blinker" will run about 4 minutes.

YouTube - Hand held Lasersaber Joule Ringer

Lidmotor

P.S.---Here is the camera borad that I used. It cost $1.49 from Electronic Goldmine.
Super Strobe Board-The Electronic Goldmine

[dragon]

Very cool Lidmotor ! I've been playing with the same boards. While playing with a basic JT circuit I realized that there is a twin oscillator action going on there. One is the main oscillator and the other is the timmed off on oscillator through the capacitor/resistor arrangement.

I haven't had much time to play with it but find an hour or so in the evening to analyze and play. Fun stuff !
________
24 FORUM

[altrez]

@Lasersaber & All
Ever since I saw your second video with that little CFL running away as you twirled it with your fingers----I wanted one. Well I had to change things a little but I have one now. I mounted the whole thing on one of those Electronic Goldmine camera units (took everything off but the transformer and transistor) and used just one 10,000uf / 10 volt electrolytic cap. Instead of the bifilar coil and diodes I used a .22uf cap and 470k ohm resistor in parallel. They go in place of the 220 ohm resistor on the board. I strung two extra wires off that to show the "finger touching " effect.
In the video the device is actually blinking but the camera really doesn't show it that well. The cap was charged with 9 volts and the CFL "blinker" will run about 4 minutes.

YouTube - Hand held Lasersaber Joule Ringer

Lidmotor

P.S.---Here is the camera borad that I used. It cost $1.49 from Electronic Goldmine.
Super Strobe Board-The Electronic Goldmine

Great work! Can you please post a schematic of how its hooked up? I don't do that well with Youtube videos I am old fashion an like to print out a schematic



-Altrez

[hartiberlin]

Great thread and very nice results.

But to know, if the cap is recharged again,
please can somebody make a good millivolt resolution
scope measurement of the cap voltage ?

I mean, just set your scope to AC and set your amplification high,
so you see millivolts spikes on the cap voltage.

Here is enclosed a circuit diagramm, what you can please measure.

Many thanks.

Regards, Stefan.

P.S: Here are some more waveforms, but the really
most interesting waveform will be the cap voltage with enough
millivolt resolution to really see, how the cap voltage changes, when the spikes
occurr:

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?t...1430#msg271430

[xee2]

But to know, if the cap is recharged again,
please can somebody make a good millivolt resolution
scope measurement of the cap voltage ?
[/url]

I posted a scope shot of Vbe already. The only way the timing capacitor can go back to zero volts is if the energy in the timing cap is pushed back into the power capacitor by the reverse current of the base coil. So, yes the power capacitor is recharged a little bit as part of the energy taken from it is pushed back into it in each cycle. The collector coil also returns part of the energy stored in the magnetic field back to the power capacitor each cycle.

[hartiberlin]

Conrad now posted the right scope shots here and following there is also
my analysis:

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?t...1451#msg271451

Regards, Stefan.

[Lidmotor]

Scope shot conclusions?????

@ All
I have been bouncing back and forth between OU and here trying to absorb what is going on. Conrad has posted some great scope pics and Stefan you have been asking some very good questions. When I did my scope shot video (on Jan 10)--

YouTube - Joule Ringer scope shots.ASF

---one of the things that I noticed right away was that the spikes were about the same value above and below the "line". I didn't say anything about it in the video because I am not very knowlegeable about reading a scope. Some of the things that I DID say (assumptions) in that video were probably wrong now that I understand more about how to read the instrument. I was picking up the signal with a small coil of wire on the end of the probe placed near the HV output. I will see what happens when I attach the scope at the run cap now. I imagine that the scope shot will look similar to what Conrad showed. Tweeking this circuit to get the most gain might be done on a simulator now.

Stefan you have asked a really good question about whether or not the coil arrangement vs the cap/resistor arrangement makes a difference in that wave form. Enhancing the green area and diminishing the red is where it is at now.

@altrez
I am just using the Xee2 circuit basically. I may try the TIP31 darlington arrangement that Conrad has to see what happens on my setup. The Goldmine boards are an easy way to set one of these up and I may order a few more.

Lidmotor

[FRC]

Thankyou LIdmotor

Your video before this last "scope shot" one inspired me about the use of caps
I went back to an old circuit I started working on about two years ago. To my
surprise, I started getting the results I wanted. Still not completely there yet,
but I think my desired outcome will happen. You sometimes do not realize that
something unrelated, can be so helpful to something else. Thanks again, and
keep the great videos coming.

George

[seth]

Thanks guys!!! Finally a little bit of ''ringing''. TIP31Cs face to face.

the last diagram that halibertin posted (conrads design, or perhaps xee - not too sure) with the tip31s in tandem has worked a beauty on the flyback im using. I just stuck them in instead of the original MJE13007, and then added the extra cap (smallest i had was 0.63microfarads) and using one 4700microfarad 25V cap, and a small 4W CFL tube, it will continue weakly blinking for about 3 and a half mins. (old 9V battery for initial input)

No hardcore scope shots from me - ill leave that to the professionals. Good Luck!

[hartiberlin]

Okay, new scopeshots and new analysis showing the potential
of this circuit:

Joule Ringer!

[Lidmotor]

My little Joule Ringer ----Boxed

@All
I went ahead and boxed my Joule Ringer so I could start using it. I left the main circuit outside. It is setup to run on either a 9 volt or two AA rechargeable batteries. The box has a charge port installed as well as a potentiometer and on off switch.
In the process of building the unit and testing it I blew out three transistors so I may install a socket for the transistor and switch to the tougher TIP31C.

YouTube - Hand held Joule Ringer--Boxed.ASF


Before I boxed this I looked at it on the scope and the wave form at the cap looks like what Conrad showed except mine has a very sharp and tall spike after the initial strange wave form. I also looked at the wave form between the emitter and the base and it is a classic saw tooth just like what LaserSaber showed in his first video.

Cheers,
Lidmotor

[altrez]

@Lidmotor,

Can you please explain the pin outs of the small strobe board? I want to order some to replicate. I have the schematic from xee2 I am just not sure how its wired on the bottom.

Thank you!

-Altrez

[seth]

Heres a video of the results i got with conrads diagram (tip31s in a darlington pair) using a 4W cfl tube, a neon, and a xenon beaker. All would continue to blink for at least a minute after the battery was removed.

YouTube - flyback with darlington pair

Yeah - i know. Pretty un-amazing considering the vids that have already been shown on here. Nonetheless, it was a pleasant feeling to finally get some action, so thanks guys!

[Lidmotor]

ElectronicGoldmine strobe board

@Lidmotor,

Can you please explain the pin outs of the small strobe board? I want to order some to replicate. I have the schematic from xee2 I am just not sure how its wired on the bottom.

Thank you!

-Altrez

The reason that I liked this board was that it was very easy to mod for this application. Basically you remove EVERYTHING except the transistor and the transformer. The circuit is already there for the basic oscillator.

(A) The big high voltage capacitor you cut off but leave part of the wires for a place to attach the CFL to.

(B) The HV diode leading to that cap you just jumper or if you remove it replace it with a wire.

(C) The push button on the back of the board you also jumper.

(D) Remove the little 220 ohm resistor sitting next to the transformer and that is where I added the .22uf cap and resistor instead. The bifilar coil & diodes would go there also if you want to use that method.

(E) The 10,000 uf cap goes at the (+) and (-) input of the board

(F) Your done. Time for fun.

Lidmotor

P.S. Be careful not to accidentally reverse the input battery terminals or use too much voltage. I have blown the transistor three times that way and it is a pain replacing it.

[altrez]

The reason that I liked this board was that it was very easy to mod for this application. Basically you remove EVERYTHING except the transistor and the transformer. The circuit is already there for the basic oscillator.

(A) The big high voltage capacitor you cut off but leave part of the wires for a place to attach the CFL to.

(B) The HV diode leading to that cap you just jumper or if you remove it replace it with a wire.

(C) The push button on the back of the board you also jumper.

(D) Remove the little 220 ohm resistor sitting next to the transformer and that is where I added the .22uf cap and resistor instead. The bifilar coil & diodes would go there also if you want to use that method.

(E) The 10,000 uf cap goes at the (+) and (-) input of the board

(F) Your done. Time for fun.

Lidmotor

P.S. Be careful not to accidentally reverse the input battery terminals or use too much voltage. I have blown the transistor three times that way and it is a pain replacing it.

Thank you!