Joule Ringer!

[skaght]

@kcarring

My guess is you are frying the transistors because of the 10k resistance. you need much higher resistance values, otherwise you get too much current. start around 10 meg ohms and work backward from there!

[whacky0]

It should be ok at 12V with a minimum 50k-100k base resistance with a parallel capacitor, try a 0.1uF or 0.01uF. I find without a cap in there the cfl will want to burn bright, even with 30M ohm and no parallel cap.

[kcarring]

too little resistance

Ok thanks guys.

[ewizard]

Hiiya!

snip

** About 20 minutes after this post I went through my junk circuits, and I actually found a D2504 - from a cam board, plugged it in and the 15 watt bulb went VERY bright (on 6v) then promptly died, and I don't know... maybe blew the transistor?! Wierd.


** Tried several transistors from the camboards themselves, and most worked, bulb lit up nice, but everytime, a few seconds later... poof, game over. Quite strange, I'm pretty sure it's wired right... maybe I've got the wrong cap? hmm i dunno. same end, everytime. Each time I start, I empty the cap first, disconnect the battery, replace the trans, then start over, and when I connect the battery it arcs and sticks a bit... and that's with an emptied cap...

Yep, I had basically the same experience with the original camera board transistor. Also blew most of my IRF640 Mosfets too but at least they lasted a while. Adding resistance to them seem to make things inoperable or almost no light output. I think it needs fine tuning and patience to work just right.

[kcarring]

Yep, I had basically the same experience with the original camera board transistor. Also blew most of my IRF640 Mosfets too but at least they lasted a while. Adding resistance to them seem to make things inoperable or almost no light output. I think it needs fine tuning and patience to work just right.

Yes, I'll keep playing with it using garbage and then when something runs properly, I can examine what's going on from there before I use any bought transistors.

I also have a 12v air fan/ionizer that I gutted out, that has some HV coils, might prove interesting for this circuit.

I don't quite understand how a fluorescent mathematically constitutes a "load" that is calcuable in this circuit, that's a bit beyond my current knowledge but it's all good learning!

I am curious as to what people would consider the min. bifilar in diameter / guage / windings, and also.. if a bifilar has say 3 times as many windings as another, (same guage/diamter air core) - how does this effect things. Does the bifilar create the HV, and therefore a person shouldn't wind any more than needed as to not botther going hundreds of volts over what is required for the CFL? Thanks

[raff]

@lasersaber,

on your latest video, there is this other coil<the loooong one/aircore?> (apart from the bifilar) and the ferrite core trafo, is it connected with the actual circuit?



-Raff

[Michael John Nunnerley]

@ all

You can take this as you like but a FL works on the ionisation of the gas inside, this requires HV and this HV can be reduced by heating the gas, this is how a FL works. Now if you put sufficient HV then you do not have to heat the gas "resistances in FL", so as I have said if you have enough HV then the FL will light to full.

Now what I would like to see is if you connect the FL in a different way so as to pass the maximum HV through the gas without the battery "cap" seeing a CURRENT draw. Think about what Dr. Stiffler does in the sec system, you can put a HV on the input but ground it to the source without the source seeing a complete loop, I say complete, it is needed a partial loop so as to maintain a zero current draw from the source, the source will see an input "return" and an output "flow" but are equal. Now I do not know if there is energy coming in from the "ambient" as I have not done any experiments on theses circuits, they may just be very efficient low enery circuits.

For excess energy you need to see a ZERO current draw, less than zero you will not measure with an ammeter, only Zero to a negative sign.

Mike

[FRC]

Anyone ?

Has anyone been able to light a CFL with less modification to the original Fuji AAA circuit ? I have been playing with the circuit, getting shocked numerous times. I want to leave the circuit intact, (until I can get another one at least) so I can use it for a cap pulse delay type application. The "Xenon flasher circuit" gave me the idea. Just do it backwards, bigger cap instead of smaller. Also, I have been trying to find Xee2's flyback circuit that Lidmotor refered to,
(since I got a flyback out of an old computer monitor) can't seem to find it
anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

FRC

[aaron5120]

CFL with Fujicircuit

Has anyone been able to light a CFL with less modification to the original Fuji AAA circuit ? I have been playing with the circuit, getting shocked numerous times. I want to leave the circuit intact, (until I can get another one at least) so I can use it for a cap pulse delay type application. The "Xenon flasher circuit" gave me the idea. Just do it backwards, bigger cap instead of smaller. Also, I have been trying to find Xee2's flyback circuit that Lidmotor refered to,
(since I got a flyback out of an old computer monitor) can't seem to find it
anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

FRC

FRC,
Here itis,as you requested..
YouTube - Running a 240v lightbulb of one AA battery. Very real and very usefull. With full how to. 100% real
The instructable is very clear to follow. The circuit is a AA battery model, the AAA model does not work.

[FRC]

The circuit is a AA battery model, the AAA model does not work.

Trouble is, its the Fuji AAA QuickSnap that I have. Do you know which model has the AA ?

FRC

[aaron5120]

whichmodel

Trouble is, its the Fuji AAA QuickSnap that I have. Do you know which model has the AA ?

FRC

The trouble is the AA model is already ceased for production. Fuji figured it out to make the AAA version more efficient. so she quit producing the AA version. Try ebay to get the older version. Or some other disposable cameras which are not Fuji. But you will get less chance for success following that path. The AA Fuji version is a must for a primetime successful experiment,my friend..

[FRC]

240 volt

The CFL in the video was a 240 volt. I am using 120 volt Philips 13 watt spirals.
The circuit looks basically the same in the video as the one I have. The video is
not using a Joule ringer setup. There was not a cap/resistor or coil/diode addition. Still would like to try the flyback circuit if it could be located.

FRC

[FRC]

Fried

Well managed to fry the Fuji circuit. Will have to get another one. These seem to have a lot of potential. I think I know why I could not find xee2's flyback circuit, It was not here, it was posted at Overunity.com. Still learned a lot from
the Fuji circuit and have a few salvageable parts from it. Hope the next one
works out better.

FRC

[raff]

FRC,

how did you manage to fry it? I think from over voltage at input? or maybe -too low- inductance at primary (due to a higher input voltage)... that circuit is optimized for 1.5V operation.

if I remember correctly, those transistors are rated 20V @ 2A ... it can survive the dc voltage but not from spikes(few hundred volts) generated during switching..

-Raff

[FRC]

Raff

I was attempting to place leads from the CFL to the back of circuit board. I must have shorted something. Heard a big pop and that was it.

FRC