Joule Ringer!

[kcarring]

@totalas

Thanks!

I've been playing around with adding variable frequency to the flip flop itself, within the inverter, controlling that, before you amplify with the fets, but i suspect i might end up with flashing lights instead. I think you need to control this flip flop with pulse width though,... but you somehow need to make sure that the flip flop is at least in synch... my setup is real goofy and prone to avalanche, but theres got to be a way to do this. it's definitely handy to be able to dial back the inverter itself without using a purely resistive circuit or "overall voltage drop". You want those pulses to remain 12v, is what im saying...

[kcarring]

Hi Kyle,

That last video of yours is megga impressive.

May we please have a circuit ? (including the PWM)

Thanks, Garry

Thank you for the nice words Garry, but honestly... it's just me and my friends ripoff of a cheap PWM 555/LM311/mosfet circuit slammed on to the power rail of the Incroyables FLIP FLOP inverter. It really needs a lot of work... and is prone to avalanching the flip flop NPN's. I appreciate your interest, but this one needs tweaking as of yet. It was just to prove (to myself) you dont have to use voltage regulation or resistive circuits to provide damping, you can do it with no added heat.

I'm working at moving the PWM in synch with the flip, I believe they need to time together, not independant. I think maybe we need to make the pulse width, variable, right at the flip-flop. Once we do that, we can then push the frequencies up or down, as a whole, as well, dependant on the tansformer, of course. Once I got something, I'll post. I think there is a lot smarter guys around here, who, if interested will toss something out that works great, too!

[garrypm]

Thanks Kyle

[kcarring]

The toroid , I got from an old amplifier its actually a transformer built on a toroid .... I think they are common part of high watts amplifier ...... totoalas

That's beefy! Not so common on a "cheap" amp, I don't think... Do you remember what type of amp?

That setup looks well suited for higher output.

My PWM concept is still too rough to bother with... I'm getting some help getting the PWM right into the flip flop circuit. Even as it is, with these LED lamps, I want to find the smallest possible FET to use... not these monsters I'm running IRFP450's - ridiculous!

Personally if I had the gear you have there, I'd make an H-Bridge with thise mosfets, and drive a Bubba oscillator sine signal / PWM / --- make your self a pure sine wave inverter! Then you can run anything on that! I can give you a great link for that, if u like.

[soundiceuk]

FR1908523 - 190mm O.D x 85mm I.D x 23mm thick Y30BH Ferrite Ring Magnet - -kg Pull (x1) (O30/O)

I've brought one of these 190mm OD x 85mm ID x 23mm thick ferrite toroids £12.80 to have a mess with.

[kcarring]

FR1908523 - 190mm O.D x 85mm I.D x 23mm thick Y30BH Ferrite Ring Magnet - -kg Pull (x1) (O30/O)

I've brought one of these 190mm OD x 85mm ID x 23mm thick ferrite toroids £12.80 to have a mess with.

Biggies! Are you going to have a magnetic core, or try to demagnetize it, first?

[totoalas]

Aplifier Toroid Joule Ringer 171211

Amplifier Toroid Joule Ringer 171211 - YouTube

@120 ma max brightness flickers @ 40 ma for xmas lighting lol


totoalas

[totoalas]

Popping MJL121194

Hi Ehsan,
they are parallel to the batteries - one each, I'm not entirely sure they are necessary.
If you have them, put them both as close to the energizer as possible. My thought was, I want the energizer to see the caps not the batteries. Again I'm not sure that is really possible w/o the comparator - cap dump system.
Patrick

Hi patrick,
Just completed my soldering of your circuit drawn by Eshan using 100 ohms transistors and all according to the drawing

When I powered it up with 16 v dc power supply without load, five neon lamps are on but when I adjusted the trim pot , three transistors popped out

The remaining three , I tested again by isolting 3 coils and measured 70 v dc on the output without load until i adjusted again the trim pot and one pop out again

I think I need to put the load first before I energized the circuit and also
what kind of protection is needed to avoid this ... eihter to add a 1 k in series with the 100 100 470 ohm resistors????

Hope you can enlighten me on this
Overall , im happy to get it right the first time since my solar panel is arriving on Tuesday on time for this charger to do its work,,,,,

Thanks,

totoalas

[hiops]

@totoalas
I'll try to answer you, when you run this circuit without load all the power of collapsing field goes thru transistor, and it burns, you are not supposed to do that, the 3055 trannys would burn all right away, but 21194 more viable and because you burnt even them tells us that you have a strong collapsing field and you will be charging very good.
Alex

[minoly]

Hi patrick,
Just completed my soldering of your circuit drawn by Eshan using 100 ohms transistors and all according to the drawing

When I powered it up with 16 v dc power supply without load, five neon lamps are on but when I adjusted the trim pot , three transistors popped out

The remaining three , I tested again by isolting 3 coils and measured 70 v dc on the output without load until i adjusted again the trim pot and one pop out again

I think I need to put the load first before I energized the circuit and also
what kind of protection is needed to avoid this ... eihter to add a 1 k in series with the 100 100 470 ohm resistors????

Hope you can enlighten me on this
Overall , im happy to get it right the first time since my solar panel is arriving on Tuesday on time for this charger to do its work,,,,,

Thanks,

totoalas

Totoalas,
first - very sorry to hear about the transistors.

but...
That's Fantastic!
this is a good sign that you have it setup right.

Anyone who has watched JB's DVD2 has seen the big warning sign that sits in front of his 10 coiler reminding

even JB himself -

to make sure the load is connected.

So - a couple of things

only 3 transistors popped. why only 3? - could be the 100 ohm resistors are not exactly 100ohms - could be the Transistors are not matched... things to think about - adding transistors to JB's SSG is not as simple as it might seem. you could have 10 transistors hooked up and only be benefiting from 4.

Congratulations on a nice build . I still highly recommend everyone do the 20 runs and go through the paces at BediniMonopole3 on yahoo. I don't really see the down side of doing so. There are some fantastic people here as well as there.

Patrick

[totoalas]

Totoalas,
first - very sorry to hear about the transistors.

but...
That's Fantastic!
this is a good sign that you have it setup right.

Anyone who has watched JB's DVD2 has seen the big warning sign that sits in front of his 10 coiler reminding

even JB himself -

to make sure the load is connected.

So - a couple of things

only 3 transistors popped. why only 3? - could be the 100 ohm resistors are not exactly 100ohms - could be the Transistors are not matched... things to think about - adding transistors to JB's SSG is not as simple as it might seem. you could have 10 transistors hooked up and only be benefiting from 4.

Congratulations on a nice build . I still highly recommend everyone do the 20 runs and go through the paces at BediniMonopole3 on yahoo. I don't really see the down side of doing so. There are some fantastic people here as well as there.

Patrick

Thanks Patrick and HIOPS
You are right , even Groundloop always tell this warning NEVER REMOVE THE LOAD WHEN THE PRIMARY IS STILL ENERGIZED

tHE BRIGHT SIDE , My chinese friend did a good job in layout / soldering

and soon he will introduce to his neighbors with solar panels .. lol

The crt tv toroid did give a boost in the performance
Will load the video in 1 hour

Thank you again Patrick and Eshan and Skywatcher

Next on my wish list flip flop inverter using microwave transformer
JB Charger with crt Toroid 181211 - YouTube

totoalas

[kcarring]

@XEE2 Thank you for taking a stab at the 555 timed inverter, and explaining to me the actual function of the electrolytic, it's filling emptying cycle - after watching your video, I rebuilt mine with Tip41/Tip42, and I found a 50V 2200 uF cap to attach to the emitters, and it worked much better, and I replicated your results of getting a single bulb lit up fairly bright at under 100 mA. I like this circuit because it's dirt cheap to make, and serves as a dedicated inverter for the "very power conscious" application. For example, you have a solar panel in location A, and you want to run "some light" in location B, 100 ft away. But have very little draw. I also tried it with 300K resistor left as a 500K pot, which is neat too, because then it is adjustable, and when dialed down, has 0 power consumption - also useful in that this could be a digitally controlled potentiometer. My question:

How do you increase the output of this circuit? For example, I cannot get three lamps to full bright, or even that close, really, as I add loads in parallel it seems there is only so much current to "go around". I attempted to amplify off the 555's pin 3 with a 3rd transistor - and I couldn't get that to work. Can we use the main transistors in conjunction with two more, to open up more current, or is the electrolytic capacity going to nullify that...

@all

I apologize for my "hack" approach to stuff and my lack of knowledge / proper terminology... in a lot of senses I am way over my head with this stuff... but I am learning a lot, quite quickly here. I built a 555 PWM, quick 'n dirty, and attempted to drive the transistors on the French Flop. It did in fact influence the circuit, but not in an overly positive way. All in all, it was worse than just loading the powerrail with a pulse. I think the key concept to a "variable frequency / duty cycle inverter" might start with replicating this circuit:

PIC DC-AC INVERTER 01 by SM0VPO

In this way, we have all the control we need right at the microprocessor level.
I have two problems with that. The supplied code is in HEX/ASM (not C or basic), and I use PICAXE. Not sure how to get around that one.

* note: I tried running my lamps on a better quality inverter that I own, a Wagan Pure Sine Wave Inverter... it was no better, over 1A to run 6 watts of light at 12.8V.
* note: it occured to me that one aspect I love about the Flip FLop, is, it is like a sensitive amplifier, and it just takes whatever juice it can and really runs it out the door... in this sense, I think it'd be cool to power it off an electrolytic cap, larger one, and put a solar panel on that. My thoughts are, the solar panel obviously has built in current limiting.. and thus it could act as a microinverter of sort, sending whatever juice it could grab, down a wire in it's square wave... directly to another AC cap/lamp. Might work.

So far, for my needs, the 555 timer circuit is the winner. For me, 13 watts is unacceptable, completely (even if I have to make do with dimmed lights). I have also played a lot with the Flip Flop, but it seems very bare bones and appears to be a good design when you just want to fire up 10-30 watts, then, the inverter handles and supplies the load. I tried rebuilding it with smaller FETs, but it still went into current "runaway". I tried it as a pure NPN BJT circuit, and the larger NPN's got hot. Not sure how to fix that for "low power"...

Cheers!

[xee2]

@ kcarring
The power out of the transistors is set by power supply and the base resistor. The power going to transformer is set by capacitor since the larger it is the more charge it can transfer. The power going into transformer is set by transformer input inductance and turns ratio. When I use the 6 volt leads (YEL & BLK) the power draw goes up to 190 mA and the bulb gets extremely bright (too much for single bulb but good for parallel bulbs). This circuit is highly dependent on the transformer used. Try different transformers.

[kcarring]

@ kcarring
The power out of the transistors is set by power supply and the base resistor. The power going to transformer is set by capacitor since the larger it is the more charge it can transfer. The power going into transformer is set by transformer input inductance and turns ratio. When I use the 6 volt leads (YEL & BLK) the power draw goes up to 190 mA and the bulb gets extremely bright (too much for single bulb but good for parallel bulbs). This circuit is highly dependent on the transformer used. Try different transformers.

Thanks!

I have a larger 80V 15,000 Microfarad I'll try with the other stated things in mind as well, thanks again

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, nice work being done in here.
Hi totoalas, yes I have zapped many, many transistors playing with flyback pulsers and so it is why I am extra careful and that seems not enough when making tests sometimes.
Though I just had an idea for testing maximum output performance from a given tuned input settings.
Use the 1 ohm resistor test that Bedini speaks of and connect a 1 ohm resistor across the output of the radiant charger.
In between my Tesla Switche tests, I am still making tests radiantly charging my batteries and I am using the Basic Stamp 2 to pulse my 6 strand coil using 3 strands per transistor, so two transistors, due to frying the supply of transistors I had, hehe.

Anyway, I plan on incrementally adjusting the pulse width, higher or lower to the coil and then observe the dc voltage over the 1 ohm resistor and when maximum voltage across resistor is achieved, then that is the pulse width/frequency of highest performance for the setup.
Hope that make sense and helps.
peace love light
tyson