Originally posted by Allen Burgess
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Joule Ringer!
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@Dave45
Or less typically, pulsed DC. As long as you are constantly changing the potential, and not allowing the steady state linear DC flow, you'll get the transformation:
"An example of a power pulse transformer application would be precise control of a heating element from a fixed D.C. voltage source. The voltage may be stepped up or down as needed by the pulse transformer’s turns ratio. The power to the pulse transformer is turned on and off using a switch (or switching device) at an operating frequency and a pulse duration that delivers the required amount of power. Consequently, the temperature is also controlled. The transformer provides electrical isolation between the input and output. The transformers used in forward converter power supplies are essentially power type pulse transformers. There exists high-power pulse transformer designs that have exceeded 500 kilowatts of power capacity."
Pulse Transformer - Operating Principles----------------------------------------------------
Alberta is under attack... http://rethinkalberta.com/
Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P
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Hi .Here is an update for my voltage regulator oscillator.
I am posting it here as I use it to make an inverter which I hope to develop further.Jonny.
Voltage Regulator Oscillator update - YouTube
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Milnoly Mod Ssg Bedini Charger It Works
Thanks to Minoly Blackchisel Sjy and K carring Next is the solar set up
Using a new sla 12 v 7 ah 12.77 v and 3 parallel 12 v 20 ah deep cycle battery used in wheel chair 3 yrs old salvaged from junkshop
initial v 12.5 12.5 4 9:27 pm Primary 12 v 7 ah 12.77
9:27 pm 13. 09 after connection
10 pm 13.22 13.20 6.87 Primary V 12 .65 resting voltage after 30 min disconnection
My question is what is the max charging voltage in order to stop the circuit from damaging the batteries
Is it normal that after 30 mins the voltage rapidly goes high that I need to disconnect the circuit after registering 14 . 68 V and rising from inital 13.09 v charging in 30 monites duration??????
thanks
totoalas
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
SS BEDINI CHARGER IT WORKS 210112 - YouTube
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Quote from Blackchisel on SSD charging
Fast rising voltage maybe the sign of high impedance of your battery - sulfation. I usually let go to 15V and let it sit for 30min. After that, I'll attach a load - bulb, PC fan etc. and discharge (respecting C20). Let it rest 30min and charge again. Whole process is about lowering battery impedance and increasing capacity and it may have to be repeated several times. I was able to go as high as 25V but they will rest in 13V range.
Thanks
V
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Originally posted by SkyWatcher View PostHi totoalas, I have used a large electrolytic capacitor in parallel with charge battery bank, seems to help when batteries are really sulfated.
Think I used a 400 volt, 2400uf, though I'm sure anything with enough voltage capacity will work to some degree.
peace love light
tyson
Im using 3300 uf 450 v in the input / output the standing v is 13 v after 8 hours
thanks,
totoalas
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Originally posted by kcarring View PostFor anyone interested in experimenting with my mod "Wimpy" of the French Flip Flop inverter, here is the basic circuit, and breadboard shot:
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/2082/wimpy.jpg
* there is a mistake on this diagram. pin 8 on 555 to 12V+, not drain on FETs as shown
Fuse protection is an absolute must in this circuit, because, for example if for some reason the output diode on the PWM fails, it will go into absolute current overload and start on fire LOL. So yeah, I learned that when i had forgotten to put that component in... a break in the circuit, at that point, is fatal, so do add a 1 or 2 amp fuse before using it, absolutely!
http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/1...breadboard.jpg
Only change is that i went from a pot to 2 fixed resistors. i was using a 500K pot before. I also added some capacitance on the power rail. Circuit seems to like polyester and tantulum caps.
I haven't done any math or put it on the scope yet so, I'll bet it can be improved a lot... I don't even know what frequency it runs at, but it works, never gets hot either, at all. Basically i think what is happening is the PWM gate is pulsed at higher frequency maybe 22k or something, limiting the inverters ability to source. The inverter is low frequency and in between slices, finds some current and still oscillates. Hums a tiny bit, but not annoying. I was told it wouldn't oscillate but it does. The cap on the power rail is high voltage and smooths out any flicker, and "gives a bit" helping it oscillate. Unlike a rheostat or linear voltage regulation method, the voltage stays higher, but is pulsed, so the current consumption drops. So does the RMS voltage, really, but, the coils still see full volts, each pulse therefore it runs on long AC cords, and does not heat up like the latter solutions. Nothing is even warm to the touch. That's my theory anyway, I'm not sure why it even works to be honest. Biggest disadvantage is that it starts to choke a bit at an amp or so, becomes inefficient. Thus the name "Wimpy". It is a limited use inverter for people wanted to run AC lighting off of 5-10 watt solar panels, basically. Should run for about 150 hrs on a truck battery, or 200 or more on a deep cycle RV battery. Best used from 3-700 mA, which was my target anyhow. Best advantage is its idle current is less than 75 mA, seems quite stable, I've run it for many hours already, and it offers a low power consumption inverter mod for off the shelf 2 watt bulbs. Should work with a variety of FETs, I just grabbed whatever I could find in the dump and everything/anything worked. Could use some spike protection I imagine.
A description of components is in the video description here.
(3) "Wimpy" - A PWM Limited FLIP FLOP DC - AC Inverter - YouTube
I've run the circuit for up to 18 hours straight and had no problems. Absolutely zero heat and no need for heat sinks @ 400mA and below, anyway.
I have the three lamps now running to stimulate the chickens to keep laying eggs 75 ft. away from the inverter, and 4 small 12V solar panels ($10 ea.) outputting 120 mA (each)
seem to keep up with it, quite well. A 10 watt solar panel would be ideal.
Your "Wimpy" schematics should have one more mistake - the PWM MOSFET diode has been reversed. I have replicated it and could not get it to work unless I connected the anode of the diode to the MOSFET gate and cathode to pin 7 of 555.
Your circuit is awesome~ My replication is able to light a 3W LED bulb with 12V@60mA with about half brightness. Minimum idle current is 30mA while it is 100mA without the PWM control.
Cheers
hajame
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Open Circuit Joule Ringer plus steady Current on Add'l Load 280112
Replaced 0.5 w 6 pcs with 6 pcs 5 watts same current input
Even you removed or cut the circuit some lamps are still on
Open Circuit Joule Ringer plus steady Current on Add'l Load 280112 - YouTube
totoalas
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Super Joule Ringer Amplifier Lighting Station 290112
@steady current of 250 ma 12 v dc 20 lamp load 1 1watt led bulbs + toroid connected 4 led lamps + 5 5 watts can expand like a train lol
Super Joule Ringer Amplifier Lighting Station 290112 - YouTube
cheers
totoalas
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