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Hi folks, thanks for sharing laser, nice videos everyone.
I was able to replicate this also, using a smaller e-core and 24 awg primary and 30 awg secondary powering 32 warm white leds in series for good brightness at comparable, if not better efficiency than the typical joule thief secondary transformer output setup. I used 3.7 volt input.
peace love light
tyson
edit: also, mr cleans setup is very interesting, i wonder if that could be emulated with homemade transformers of some kind instead of the car coils.
[edit: also, mr cleans setup is very interesting, i wonder if that could be emulated with homemade transformers of some kind instead of the car coils.[/QUOTE]
Been thinking on the same direction ... using bosch ignition module plus microwave oven transformer for the hv output
Another is for battery charging for topping off the voltage when the sun is down in a solar system . Mr. Clean showed that his battery charge went up from 12.10 to 12.31 using earth ground and his circuit
@LaserSaber, could you give us an indication of the power used with 10 bulbs in your basic JR2 setup ?
For sure the 2 x 9V batteries you show in series to light the incandescent wouldn't last more than a few minutes without your circuit.
Once I ran a 10W fluo from 9V batteries and it would shut down very very fast.
Sorry I can't replicate, I tried the 5 electronic shops in town without success to find the right parts. i have tried several shops online and none accepted my card or my location Anyway I can barely solder
So I asked Andrew from Panacea to replicate the mini JR and the light test comparative. He accepted and I will send him 300 bucks as soon as I am paid. Of course he has to buy a luxmeter, but the other parts are fairly cheap
You have a PM ...
Thanks,
Jules
Last edited by Jules Tresor; 05-04-2012, 02:08 AM.
@ Lasersaber & All
Here is another guy replicating the 2.0 circuit. He is putting a pot from the (+) rail to the base to add control. He is getting the circuit to run on several different coil arrangements. Here is a 12 min. video that shows where he is at with the project as of today.
Hi folks, lidmotor are you keeping track of mr cleans latest 9 volt battery test results.
He was able to light four 3 watt led bulbs for 3 hours on a 175mah-9volt battery.
Sure sounds like something to replicate to me, I'm going to try and replicate.
peace love light
tyson
@ Lasersaber & All
Here is another guy replicating the 2.0 circuit. He is putting a pot from the (+) rail to the base to add control. He is getting the circuit to run on several different coil arrangements. Here is a 12 min. video that shows where he is at with the project as of today.
Congratulations Lasersaber, Lidmotor et al. on a very fun circuit!
The video cited above by peanutbutter291 is rather long, so I've summarized results here:
He uses a light meter to first verify that a 7.5 W LED bulb (120V bulb) puts out 490-500 lumens, as advertised with this particular bulb.
Then he drives 7 bulbs, at full output this would be 7 x 7.5W = 52.5W.
First run, he gets 85% of full brightness, so 52.5W x 0.85 = 44.6W is his estimated Pout.
The power supply is at this time providing 1.55A at 12V = 18.6 W input.
Efficiency is roughly 44.6/18.6 ~ 2.4; interesting though still a rather crude measure at this point.
Second run, with choke added in series with the load,
he gets 78% of full brightness, so 52.5W x 0.78 = 40.95 W is his estimate Pout.
The power supply is at this time providing 1.52A at 11.5V = 17.48W input.
Efficiency is roughly 41/17.5 ~ 2.3; again interesting.
I show from his (long) vid the calculations of Pout and Pin, along with his revised circuit diagram.
Note that he first adds bias through a resistor to the base, to get the ringing started, and for the second run he adds a choke.
Thanks and congrats for a fun little circuit!
Steven Jones
@ Dr. Jones
I worked with Lasersaber's 2.0 circuit again today and looked at the watts output vs light produced using different bulbs. I would like hear your thoughts on what might be happening as there seems to be something strange here.
Here is a video of what I did today and watch the amp meter with the different bulb loads that I apply. It hardly changes. I am also picking up "Exciter" effects off the circuit.
@ Dr. Jones
I worked with Lasersaber's 2.0 circuit again today and looked at the watts output vs light produced using different bulbs. I would like hear your thoughts on what might be happening as there seems to be something strange here.
Here is a video of what I did today and watch the amp meter with the different bulb loads that I apply. It hardly changes. I am also picking up "Exciter" effects off the circuit.
@Lidmotor: very instructive vid, as always -- good work. It is curious that the ammeter hardly changes as you apply different bulbs. Exciting really.
I like the fact that you are running off a battery and using an ammeter to measure the current. Thus, you have a decent measure of the input power, V*I (DC, steady voltage and current. Measure V-battery just to be sure of the input voltage.)
The difficulty lies in measuring the output power, Pout. If the frequency in the output leg of the circuit was around 60 Hz, I might suggest simply using a kill-a-watt meter (or equivalent). That would make matters easy, and you might try to tune the frequency on the output leg to approx 60 Hz (probably difficult as the freq-out is evidently high).
As this is evidently not running at 60 Hz, we can use other approaches.
The best approach I can think of right now to reliably measure Pout is to dump the (AC) power into a carbon resistor or a nichrome wire ("R-load"). The resistance will vary with temperature, but that is not so critical here, because we will measure the total output ENERGY. One might do this by placing R-load into a known quantity of water and simply heating the water.
Then the calorimetric method is quite straightforward, applying the equations:
1) Qheating = 4.186 J/g-degC * mass of water heated in grams * (Tfinal - Tinitial)
and for water vaporized, we have:
2) Qvaporization = 2260 J/g * mass of water vaporized.
If you stay away from higher temps or "steaming" so that vaporization can be ignored, then just equation (1) is needed.
You will need to get the volume of the water, then 1 milliliter = 1 ml = 1gram -- OR get the mass directly (weighing devices are inexpensive on Amazon, for example.) I would place the water, say 1 cup = 8 fluid ounces = 236.6g, in a styrofoam cup (preferably with lid) to provide decent insulation.
Note that 8 fluid ounces of water = 236.6 g ( Since 1 fl oz (US) = 29.57353 ml (SI)).
Record the time of the run, from the time power is applied to the circuit, until input power off. This is the "run-time."
Then
Einput = Pin * run-time.
and
Eoutput = Qheating (of a known mass of water).
May I emphasize that this effort to measure the output energy using a simple water-heating-based calorimeter, is well worth it! One can move on to more sophisticated calorimeters later...
We may finally pin down the output and input energy (and their ratio) DEFINITIVELY!
Thanks for the questions, Lidmotor. If I can help with the calorimeter, pls let me know. I have built and used a few of these (and the above is perhaps the simplest reliable calorimeter).
Here is a video of what I did today and watch the amp meter with the different bulb loads that I apply. It hardly changes.
Hi Lid from joule ringer 1
I have the same steady current even i added another toroid fom the center tap
and placed 5 5watt led bulbs
even without load same current exist
But again, to get a scientifically reliable and repeatable measurement of the output power (or energy), I strongly recommend calorimetric methods.
Lidmotor -- attachment shows the immersion heater I have used in a recent calorimeter.
I wrote, "dump the (AC) power into a carbon resistor or a nichrome wire ("R-load")." You could use this immersion heater for R-load, if you wish. Immerse in water to within about 1 cm of the white plastic. It runs at about 290W at 110V; hopefully the resistance is not too low for your circuit.
Note also that heating of the transistor appears significant in this circuit; and that "Qheating" should also be captured (in a separate water cup if possible) to get a more accurate reading of output energy, so
PS -- for the temperature probe, I found the TK probe below and have been using it for studies in the last several months. Inexpensive, and I'm finding it reliable. Free shipping, too. I picked up a couple of these a while back.
PPS -- it is important to STIR the water and let the probe equilibrate for several seconds to the water temp, in this little calorimeter. If you get an "interesting" Eout/Ein ratio, suggest we then move on to a "professional" calorimeter. The simple water-heating calorimeter outlined above should allow for quite reliable and QUICK measurements of the output energy during tests...
(I'd be very pleased to work with you on calorimetry if you wish.)
Thanks for all the details on how to look at the efficiency of this circuit by using heat measurements. I am really more interested in how much light is produced per watt used. My feeling is that heat is the enemy in these circuits. I have this dream that one morning I will wake up and walk into my living room to find a running light sytem still on full bright ------ covered in frost.
Well we all have our dreams.
The heat measurement experiment sounds interesting but I don't think this circuit would show very good results. Heat is leaking out all over.
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