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  • @Lidmotor - It's around 1:08 in that video where I smiled broadly and said 'good on ya'
    Hmmm any chance of taking the circuit from a runner and putting it to a non running bulb ?
    I only have the LOA couple of Watts types and so am intrigued whether a circuit from one can be surgically implanted into another. This calls for bigger guns, to see what happens and whether not only a previously non running one would fire up, but whether the Lumen output changes on say the 7.5W type.

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    • Lidmotor,

      One two watt bulb's amperage draw remains unchanged with the addition of five more bulbs running at six volts. The needle just budged on my amp meter. I assume there's no increase in amperage at twelve volts when I add the five two watt bulb cluster. The six volt draw on one and six bulbs both was fifty milliamps.

      Doubling the voltage should reduce amperage by half on both one and six bulbs. Twenty five milliamps maybe too little for my meter to register. I'll retest, but don't forget, the amp draw with these 2 watt bulbs stays the same with the addition of more bulbs. I'll upload a video for NickZ. "Hitman's" boxed version is running eight bulbs. The circuit's practically the same. I believe Hertz is acting like amperage. How much amperage do you think "Hitman's" six tiny three volt solar panels generate? It can't be very much. The three hundred kilohertz frequency range is the power generating that many lumens from those bulbs, not the skimpy amperage from those midget panels!

      On retesting, a bad connection revealed 600 milliamps in draw for the 6 2 watt bulbs at nearly full brightness with 12 volts. Lidmotor was right!
      Last edited by Allen Burgess; 06-07-2012, 02:10 AM.

      Comment


      • Results superceed intentions -Not butting in

        I'm not butting in here or starting posting. I still feel bad at the lower Lu/W numbers I'd found and wasn't really happy with the "shack" numbers. I feel a bit responsible to correct this for those who purchased the Shack and Utilitech bulbs. As well Jules brought up that I had not relayed my intentions for 220v; so I'll brief those I suppose. I must say I debated for a while, but even though I'm "out of it"; This is more important than my personal wishes.
        I cannot restore PB as I removed the email, sorry there I didn't copy any video's; so that is all gone. I made an account then, to relay this information.

        So, I've been able to optimize the Utilitech with the radio shack and the 3055; also clean up the wave nice. I believe I cover everything in the video's.(2 parts)
        Final shown is 354 Lumens @ 59 Lumens per watt (1% accuracy) If I did NOT adjust for daylight then we would assume 76 Lu/W (5% accuracy). Though I won't sell you on that as it's actually 59.
        Also, final TOTAL efficiency, including all components is 90.5%. This means it is MORE efficient than any inverter made. Most inverters running 90-95% without considering their own loss. This is a total "all inclusive" 90.5%. So, at least this is viable and now more efficient than an inverter.

        NOTE: this was done specifically for the 12v transformer with utilitech and 12v operation! I feel responsible to improve this combination; but other transformers or bulbs will be different. I would recommend high accuracy to accurately improve the circuits if you try this with others.
        Utilitech / Radio Shack from PB - Patch / Fix for Efficiency 59 Lu/w @ +90% Eff. (Part 1) - YouTube

        Utilitech / Radio Shack from PB - Patch / Fix for Efficiency 59 Lu/w @ +90% Eff. (Part 2) - YouTube


        Finally then, I've attached a general schematic for my One method of 220v bulb operation. This will also benefit efficiency where a transformer is too small (e.g. Shack Audio output w/ utilitech gains 4-5 Lu/w). I have run 2 110v bulbs in series and I assume this will light 220v fine.
        I suppose it will prove a niche design as it will not be needed in all cases. But with small transformers or higher voltage; it will provide better efficiency. All cases I've not lost more than 1 Lu/W if it's not needed; however in cases where it IS needed we see an improvement of 5-7 Lu/W. For 220, it's not that a single doesn't have enough "open" voltage; just that the current available is poor at that voltage. This, more or less, parallel oscillator; allows either more current at a higher voltage (220v), lower voltage for a given current (lower operational volts), or a higher efficiency where a transformer is slightly underpowered.
        Now, if you run "high" loading, you will notice one transistor warmer than another (variation of chip). The correction is a 10 Ohm resistor to the warmer base. Also, be sure BOTH bases are driven off ONE potentiometer.
        Finally here, A and B for connections are shown for simplicity. There are only 2 connections (one A one B) on a cord or plug. The dotted line is where a "charge" system hooks up. This charging works very well with dual oscillators and 30 ma charge into 12v @ a 9v operational, is not uncommon. Also, note that these are 2 separate transformers and cores!! You will over heat transistors if this is done on a single transformer as they switch simultaneously.

        I hope these things help. Again, I'm not getting back in. Just feel I should pass these on. Best wishes to all in this pursuit!

        Thanks
        Attached Files

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        • Thanks to you Bill, that's very kind of you, I'll follow your new youtube channel with interest

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          • Jr 2.0

            One 2 watt 120 volt LED bulb draws 300 milliamps, and five more bulbs, an additional 100 milliamps. So, the cluster average is 15 times more efficient then the single bulb alone, albeit a loss in brightness, by no means that great. This means the bulbs should dim by that great a factor, when they appear to have much much more brightness then that in combined illumination. I have my circuit soldered up and boxed, but I want by a lux meter to measure any gain in efficiency with the addition of multiple bulbs. I'd like to produce an efficiency curve for multiple bulbs.
            Last edited by Allen Burgess; 06-07-2012, 07:08 PM.

            Comment


            • Real sorry to hijack the thread. It's one I followed for a while and there are some great folks on here who are not on the Don Smith devices too good to be true thread.

              I'm certain you will forgive me.

              Very interesting progress in the Don Smith arena. Seems like word on the street is a number of members are coming forward with working systems.

              We are all here to free ourselves from slavery. I am here to help you all!!!

              Thanks to a very hard working bunch of like minded individuals here is the answer!!!!!!!!!

              - TEAM ION VALVE -





              Comment


              • My boxed ringer

                Here is my boxed up Super Joule Ringer 2.0.

                Simple --Super Joule Ringer 2.0---Boxed - YouTube

                @Bill
                Thanks for coming back ----even if it is for a short while.

                @Allen
                I didn't find an advantage in using multiple bulbs on the circuit that I ended up with.

                @Laserssaber
                Simply---thanks. It was another fun project.

                Lidmotor
                Last edited by Lidmotor; 06-07-2012, 08:16 PM.

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                • @Lidmotor:
                  I really like the way you applied this circuit and boxed it, super video.
                  I played with this a while last night with an almost identical circuit, and found that if I turned the current up to high, the bulb screeched like crazy. Any idea what that is all about? 50 to 60mA on the 2watt LOA works very well.

                  Thanks, Brad

                  Comment


                  • Overdrive

                    Originally posted by b_rads View Post
                    @Lidmotor:
                    I really like the way you applied this circuit and boxed it, super video.
                    I played with this a while last night with an almost identical circuit, and found that if I turned the current up to high, the bulb screeched like crazy. Any idea what that is all about? 50 to 60mA on the 2watt LOA works very well.

                    Thanks, Brad
                    I think that it is just an overdriving situation. I use the 10K pot on mine to get the Utilitech 7.5 W bulb to come on bright then I turn it all the way down and the bulb stays on bright. Bill talks about the circuit inside the bulb in his latest videos. It is what I figured--- that the bulb's internal circuit is a major player in how the main circuit works.

                    Lidmotor
                    Last edited by Lidmotor; 06-07-2012, 09:09 PM.

                    Comment


                    • Video

                      Here's my new video:

                      Joule Ringer 2.0 single and multiple bulb amp draw comparison. - YouTube

                      The first bulb dims a little, but the cluster more then makes up for the loss of brightness, at only %50 increase in power. It's obvious there's a gain in efficiency with the addition of the bulb cluster.
                      Last edited by Allen Burgess; 06-08-2012, 12:43 AM.

                      Comment


                      • Allen B:
                        I suspect you are right about the frequency having everything to do with the very low draw. This really needs more looking into, especially by those that are good at numbers, or whatever, to figure this anomaly out. I can tell from your video, as well as Hitman's video that we've got something special going on here.
                        Thanks for uploading the video, and showing us your set-up. And good luck with any further testing, especially in the 12 volt range.

                        I'm still working on the Exciter circuits, but I notice something similar to what the "bump video" was showing, that I posted a little earlier. I just do the same thing in a different way to get it to "kick in". But, it does "drop out" also, and is what I'm still working on now, to sustain it.

                        BTW: I also have some of the same type of tiny 2 by 2 inch solar cells like Hitman is showing, and mine produce 4.2 volts, and 30 mAs, in full sunlight. So, if you figure 6 solar cells, like in his video lighting the 8 bulbs, that would be about 180mA draw, at most, but if placed in series, then it is drawing, well, almost nothing? Like I said I'm not good at numbers, but that amount of light output looks very good to me.

                        Best of luck to all here, and to the "too good to be true" thread guys also. I hope that it really is not too good to be true, and really is true, after all.

                        NickZ
                        Last edited by NickZ; 06-08-2012, 03:03 AM.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Allen Burgess View Post
                          Here's my new video:

                          Joule Ringer 2.0 single and multiple bulb amp draw comparison. - YouTube

                          The first bulb dims a little, but the cluster more then makes up for the loss of brightness, at only %50 increase in power. It's obvious there's a gain in efficiency with the addition of the bulb cluster.
                          This is the same trap that Bill (Peanutbutter) fell into. You have to measure this carefully using a light box and a lux meter to really tell what is happening. It boils down to lumens per watt. Dr. Jones is right.
                          I'm not trying to be a "too good to be true" guy like Nick mentioned. It is just that you can be decieved by a bunch of bulbs lighting up on an AC circuit. You have to carefully look at the numbers.

                          Lidmotor

                          Comment


                          • Sun efficiency !

                            Sunlight - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
                            Quote:"Direct sunlight has a luminous efficacy of about 93 lumens per watt of radiant flux. Bright sunlight provides illuminance of approximately 100,000 lux or lumens per square meter at the Earth's surface." End quote

                            Bill has gone above that in his latest video, with 104 Lumen/Watt Brighter than the sun

                            I wonder what would happen with a Lab LED that gives 250 L/W, when you put it in front of a solar panel ... how much energy you'll collect ?
                            Wiki says "approximately 100,000 lux or lumens per square meter" ... 1 lux (= 1 lm/m2)

                            Wiki " A typical "150 watt" solar panel is about a square meter in size." (Photovoltaic system - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
                            So 100,000 lux or lm/sq.m => 150W Pout from solar panel
                            100,000/250L = 400 Lab LED = 400W Pin for the LEDs, no OU at that point, we would need LED with over 800L/W to close the loop ?!
                            Last edited by Jules Tresor; 06-08-2012, 11:27 AM.

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                            • Not only driving circuit for efficiency

                              "To optimize the luminous efficacy, the researchers focused on a key problem of LEDs: the electrodes tend to absorb some of the light that could otherwise exit the device and increase its luminosity. To reduce absorption at the electrode, the researchers used an indium-tin oxide contact as one of the electrodes, and also used a patterned sapphire substrate to scatter the light so that it could more efficiently exit the device. " White LEDs with super-high luminous efficacy could satisfy all general lighting needs

                              Comment


                              • Solar Cell That Also Shines: Luminescent 'LED-Type' Design Breaks Efficiency Record Solar cell that also shines: Luminescent 'LED-type' design breaks efficiency record
                                "What we demonstrated is that the better a solar cell is at emitting photons, the higher its voltage and the greater the efficiency it can produce," says Eli Yablonovitch, principal researcher and UC Berkeley professor of electrical engineering."

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