Joule Ringer!

[br0ns0n77]

Hey guys - thanks for the help! I managed to figure out the problem. I had the wires backward coming off the coil. I switched the magnet wire with the 14 gauge on both ends and applied the appropriate voltage with a bulb and it worked. I didn't realize the meter wouldn't close the circuit. With that being said, I had a 12v battery powering a 100w incandescent bulb (i could hear the coil whine) but it would NOT power the 7w LED bulb or the 23w CFL bulb - I have no idea why... strange. Any ideas?

I had two 12v batteries in series connected to the circuit because i wanted to see if voltage was the issue in not lighting the 7w LED bulb, it did light the LED somewhat better, but not that bright and then it slowly went completely out... did the transistor blow? Do these transistors blow that easily? I saw where Lasersaber said he was putting nearly 70v through the circuit easily. I can't get it to do anything now.

Thanks again for the help!

Hi.I while back I used a small 5v buzzer to trigger an inverter circuit and I have added it to a jouleringer variant after modifying the buzzer so it does not emit any sound so it is basically acting as a pulse driving circuit for the base and it works really well with increased efficiency and output.
Here is a vid of the experiment.
Buzzer triggered Jouleringer variant - YouTube
@br0ns0n77 Hi.Looking at your pics,I think you have your coils backwards.First remove your meter replace it in series as an amp meter.
The thick red wire is your primary so connect one end to your battery positive and the other end to your transistor collector.
Connect one end of the thin magnet wire which should have a lot more turns than the red primary to the base of the transistor and connect the other end of the thin wire to one leg of a neon bulb and connect the other leg of the neon to the battery + or -
Add an led with the cathode(flat side) connected to the base and the anode connected to emitter.
Add a 20k variable resistor from batt + to base incase your circuit will not self start and to allow adjustment.
Increase your battery voltage to 3v.
If the led does not light.Reverse the connections of the red primary coil.
Once you get a runner then you can experiment with it and this will allow you to build a close replication of lasersabers sjr3
.Hope this helps.Jonny.

[br0ns0n77]

Here's the video showing the circuit working:

Joule Ringer 3.0 Variation Powering Incandescent - YouTube

[Nick_Z]

For my version of the 3.0 joule ringer. I had a small 3 inch ferrite coil, so I wrapped 20 winds as the primary, and 200 or so for the secondary.
I don't have the 2n3055 transistor, so I just used what I had available, which did work, but gets too hot on 12volts.
It is running on 9 volts, (Picture) below. Not very bright, but it will light 25w and 65watt Clfs. The last picture is showing that it lights a neon quite brightly. The first pictures is of the same coil running as an Exciter circuit.
This smaller coil set up seams to have good current output, but not enough voltage, and I don't want to burn the smaller transistors, but imagine it running on 24 to 36 volts...
I need to work on it some more... here's a couple of pics.

@Skywatcher: Slider made a replication using the ferrite beads like you have and DID get it working. He's made a video of it, in case you haven't seen it.
Nick_Z

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi nick, thanks for the information.
Watched sliders video, he used a 3" ferrite solid core from a radio and only suggests the ferrite beads as an alternative.
Have a lower amp high voltage NPN transistor (NTE2300) to try and use, since don't want to risk any of the other 2n3055's, as they are being used for tests on this multistrand SSG project.
peace love light
tyson

[Nick_Z]

That's right, he does use the 3 inch rod, similar to what I have. Mine is about 1/4 inch wide, and came free out of a radio. Although that 3 inch rod did work, it has less output than an inch long wound coil that uses the same ferrite rod in one of my Exciters. I may add more secondary winds on it, to see it that improves the brightness of the Cfls, as it seams to have enough current to brightly light the neon bulb, but lacks voltage output.
The bigger ferrite rods like LS used are over $30 now. There are cheaper ones on Ebay. Would be good to know the perm rating though.

[gyula]

Hi Nick,

This ebay offer here
Ferrite Rod 10x200mm , Lot of 2 | eBay

says the ferrite rod material is M400 and if my memory is correct the Russian ferrites have such designation for the ferrite material and M400 means the permeability=400. (If you see M2000, especially for Russian toroidal ferrite cores then they have a permeability=2000.)

IF you check some Russian ebay sellers here they include the permeability for the rods they sell in the description, see some here
ferrite rod | eBay

Gyula

[Nick_Z]

Gyula:
Yes, it seams that the perm on rods only goes to 2000u. Whereas some ferrite toroids can have much higher values, to 80.000u or more.
What we need to know is just what perm we need for the working frequencies of these devices, as this needs to be correct for optimum effect generation. The rods made for use in am radios for example, may not be the best bet for this purpose.
Here is some interesting information concerning big monster ferrite rods.
(903) 383-7047 Monster FERRITE RODS. Plastic coated ferrite rods. OEM.

[Slider2732]

I'd better jump in, while my name was mentioned lol

Yep, you can use the ferrites from old CRT monitors. I saw that discussed on the other page too of this thread. It worked well for the SJR 2.0. Experiments (and life issues) have kept me away from posting much.

@Nick - When being used to standard exciter towers, these don't have half the capabilities. But, they can be tuned up and they offer a small neat readily made option. What you knjow of the traits of tower builds is just the same with these. The more the turns on the Secondary, the better the output, stuff like that
Decrease the current used with a diode to the Base, forward biased and similar to the SJR 2.0 modification.
If running unloaded (no bulb on the end) you may draw say 150mA. Put a load on and it will go down to 80mA, add the diode mod and you'll see perhaps 65mA...same output brightness.
The diode limits the Base current, so running 2 or 3 in series, like in Dr. Stifflers setups, might actually cause the circuit to not fire up on low voltage inputs. The Base current is being derived from the Secondary winding of course, limit it with 0.7V voltage drops and it soon decreases to make the circuit unstable and unusable.
However - if you replace the diode with an LED, you do get a good power on indicator, that also limits current to the transistor.

I mentioned unloaded. You can just use the Secondary (thin wire) and then you get the 1 wire lighting ability, as shown in a recent video of mine.
50ft and more is possible, using no more than a 30 gauge wire. The current is unimportant, it's the driving voltage and, quite correctly Nick, voltage is what we are looking for. The skin effect sends the voltage over the top of the wire, not through it, producing a small wireless field all along whatever distance you run the 1 wire. Terminate in an AV plug for LED bulbs.


Using a similar principle, we can conduct through earth, plain dirt !
However, as yet and as a caveat, indoor experiments haven't had much success in the wilds of outdoors.
Here's a pic of where i'm at:


To explain the crude looking pic, think of Tesla's Wardenclyffe.
It doesn't need the pieces of aluminium foil, but works better with them. Otherwise, a metal mass or hand contact is needed on the bulb.
V and I were 5V at 45mA.
Also shown in the pic is how the earth is all electrically charged. The ring thing at the back is a tester AV plug LED on a 12 turn coil. It lights when placed anywhere on the soil. The wireless field of the coil is shown, by the ferrite coil and LED combo at the side of it.
The foil is attached to the Positive of the battery input and 1 bulb side contact. They act in the same way as the topload and a receiver coil of a traditional Tesla tower system.
Only the thin wire output of the SJR 3.0 is connected and it runs to a piece of copper, that sticks anywhere in the soil in the tub.
The bulb has an AV diodes connection to it and the joined end runs to another piece of copper.
The bulb copper piece can be placed anywhere in the soil tub and the bulb lights.
The wire of the output from the SJR 3.0 can run to any length, 50ft and more and the bulb will light when placed in the dirt.

[Nick_Z]

@Slider:
I was wondering where you were...
These am radio rods work a bit different that the open circuit Exciter coils. The ferrite allows for a good amount of current, and stronger RF burns, In Exciter circuit, but less voltage output, compared to the bigger open wired air cores. But, not only voltage is important, as I found when connecting my solar panels to the Exciter, current is also important. So, both are needed, not just voltage. I'll add more turns to my secondary of the radio ferrite core today and let you know what happens.
I'm looking for a lot more voltage output...to light my big 65 watt CFLs, BRIGHTLY.
To limit the base voltage by placing one or more diodes on it will also drop the output of the device. So, using 12v, and reducing it to 6 or 9 volts at the transistor's base, will not help to create a stronger output. May as well use just 6 to 9 volts, than to waist the voltage.
The 2n3055 can handle the 12v, or higher input. I tried the MJE 3055 (TIP 31) but it did not work for me. But, the smaller transistor that work for the Exciter will work with the ferrite rod, also. But, they can't handle the 12 volts or higher input that the 2n3055 can.
This LS 3.0 circuit is the typical Jtc, but, the efficiency of the 3.0 is found in that transistor, and the big ferrite rod, with no other resistors, diodes, or anything else bogging it down.
One more thing, now I'm using the "led indicator" connected to an inductor, (like an Av Plug), you are also showing and is in my pictures above, to indicate the field and when the oscillator is ON and working. And without it influencing the draw or affecting the system in any way, or at least in a much lesser way. As it is not connected to the device, which by the way, also has a fairly strong wireless field.
In my circuit, it makes no difference to connect the bulb's negative back to the transistor positive, and it will work fine on just one wire to the bulb, with no return path.

[Slider2732]

@Nick - similar findings then
I beg to differ on the Base. The driving voltage is because of the close coupling of the coils and why a couple of diodes will affect it so greatly. It won't be 12V to 9V, it's induced voltage to the Secondary, minus 0.7V per diode drop. The induction is dependent on the coil geometry. Same thing as when we move the Primary up and down the Secondary of a standard tower and the LED glows to different levels. A tower can run at 12V and yet the LED to the Base won't burn out.
In my experience, the current is important for the circuit, but not at the output. From the output onward, it's voltage that counts, enabling 50ft over a thin single wire. If we start with a 1:1 ratio, it can be 100:1 at the output, or 1000:1. The extra voltage of 1000:1 will light the light stronger.
Oh, you've probably found that the tester LED will light off the battery too. The battery can be on very long leads and the tester will light. That's kinda cool in and of itself for range (limited with losses though for long extensions because it's DC)

I've just tried the Bellisimo verison of the CAT Exciter and it runs the LOA LED bulb just as well as my build of 3.0, at 1.2V on a single wire. Mileage will vary etc on anyone elses...my 2 builds of it so far are tiddlers compared to LS's original.
So I think the SJR 3.0 has huge merits for multibulb running, throw anything on and it'll go, but other methods offer higher efficiency.
With everything tuned up, the SJR 3.0 also offers lower current demands than many transformers and other inverter designs. Using the 3055 (which I don't have) or other stronger transistors, they offer a safe tough platform for off grid household lighting.

[br0ns0n77]

So my goal is to get my garage lit like Lasersaber's workshed. I have 2-3 12v car batteries that I want to power a Joule Ringer circuit and run several LED bulbs. I watched his Joule Ringer 3.0 video and saw the schematics, but my question is this... will the components in his circuit run without blowing when using two 12v car batteries? The reason I ask is because he's using a cell phone battery (which is 14 volts) to power those bulbs, but I was wondering if the amps in the car battery would be strong and blow the transistor... I'm assuming that's what blows them?

[Slider2732]

The circuit will only draw what it needs to run ...most appliances are the same. If you plug a cellphone charger adapter into a cigarette lighter port on a car, the phone doesn't fry. Same thing here, the amps are there, but won't be all rushing in to blow up the circuit.
Or, see it another way, you can plug a little clock radio or a vacuum cleaner into a wall socket.
The car battery would allow many such circuits to run, if you wished, whereas say a bunch of AA's made into a 12V pack would only last a few minutes.

I believe the pack Lasersaber probably used was a 4S Li-Po, normally used for R/C aircraft or cars. Such packs deliver 14.8V (3.7V per cell), with 20C=30C discharge ability (plenty of amperage) and he did mention 14V in the video. He's shown his quadcopter and the Paramotor before now, both using R/C components. It'd be something like a 500mAh pack.
In light of that pack, a car battery would be ideal, though much larger.

[Nick_Z]

In order to replicate the 3.0 system properly we probably should use the exact same transistor-coil set up. As well as the voltage of 12 to 14 volts.
I've fried more than my share of transistors, even on 12v, and even with two diodes in place. So, I would not try higher voltages, like 24volts, yet.
The ferrite rod may not be accessible to some guys (like me) due to the higher cost, and no availability where I'm at. But, I think that the super simple circuit as shown in the 3.0 diagram can be used with other coils also.
I have just taken apart a crt monitor, and it has a very nice 3 inch diameter ferrite coil that is not wound over it, and is ready to be used in this circuit, all I need is more magnet wire, to test it out.
No costs for me is the ticket. Old crt monitors or Tv can be had for almost nothing now, especially if they are not working and are being thrown away. Their ferrite coils are easy to wind over also, as the two halves can be taken apart, and clipped back together when done. Their permeability should be good, also.
Using the crt ferrite beads which are mostly used for filtering on cable ends may not be the best way to go.

[br0ns0n77]

Thanks guys for the reply. I appreciate it. I had the same transistor setup and wiring from his schematic, but for some reason when I'm putting a small LED on a 12v battery with his setup, it's lighting them but blowing them as well as the transistor. The LED should only use the voltage / amperage it needs correct? What could be the problem?

[Slider2732]

Glad to hear of you ripping a monitor apart Nick. One thing you could do, that I plan to, is to try something on the end of an SJR 3.0 coil.
Depending on your monitor, you'll have several large round ferrite inductors. Some will be magnetic, if you tap a screwdriver to them and, in themselves, are a great source for ceramic magnets.
On taking the plastic sleeving off, you'll find the wire wrapping around and then a seperate piece at the top, the magnet. So, we have a coil and a magnet on top straight from the factory.
Taking that magnet and sticking it on the end may improve SJR 3.0 coil performance ?

I agree, there are different ferrites and the permeability of most cable tube ones will likely be low. But, I had success with an SJR 2.0 with those and intend to try the SJR 3.0. Radio ferrites have worked best so far.
Really, there's nothing to stop a fella glueing a couple of radio ferrites together, for a longer coil. Firmly place together and glue around the join

@brOnsOn77 - you need to run tougher loads than the LED. If just an LED is on the output then it has no current limiting going on...which LED's do need. If you don't load the output with something like a mains bulb, the current used by the circuit is approx twice what it is when loaded. In my setup, it uses 150mA unloaded, 60mA loaded. The drop in your setup when loaded would keep the transistor a lot cooler. Always best to use a heatsink in any case and gently press the top of the transistor periodically to check heat.