Joule Ringer!

[Nick_Z]

Guys
Here is another one of my replications of the 3.0 ringer circuit, and a couple of pictures of my yoke core. It has 20 turns primary on one side of the yoke, and about 250 turns on the opposite side of the yoke, of 28 gauge. It's working pretty well considering that there is not a lot of turns on it. I may add more turns when I have more wire to work with.
Transistor is a MJE (TIP) 3055. Running on a bad 12v battery. Transistor is stone cold, as if its not even being used. NO HEAT, at all
Showing a 25wtt Cfl, and the circuit will brightly light 65 watt Cfls, also, but not full on, yet. I do have to put my hand on the bulb, or it does not fully light. Only one wire connection to the Cfl, as it does not like to go to the positive or negative rail, without ringing. Neon is lighting wireless all around the bulbs.
Although this set up might cost you a little to buy the right transistor, and such, but is costed me nothing, , Zilch. Only my time. I'll show a video as soon as I get it further along. Main thing is there is absolutely,NO HEAT, anywhere, except for the Cfl does put out some heat off the bulb. Touching the secondary feels a bit like when one is touching the mains, but I'm getting used to it, shock therapy.

Edit: (last picture)


Here one more picture (last one) of it lighting the 65 watt Cfl bulb, with a second 25 watt Cfl bulb also on the same line.

[Slider2732]

Cor ! as they say.
That's a decent setup.
I foresee the stripping of another CRT after seeing how yours did there

(and this time i'll make sure not to lose the little metal clips)

[totoalas]

hI Nickz

Nice build on the cores
I have 50 pieces in my collection of assorted sizes on the crt cores
Xee2 just repost his video on a ring core with 1.5 aa battery

If we can reduced the current consumption to a trickle will be the best
I ll add one same as yours on the primary and see if it produce the same

Also the Simple inverter by Skywatcher , I will box up together with this and jr for Xmas present . The inverter will light a 220 v w led @ 170 mA / a 3 Watt high intensity with 450 mA /and a CFL 18 watts for 0.93 A / Charging my Nokia phone @ 380 mA / with a radio - will try to find a 25 w one....
Lidmotor had replicated Incroyables French Inverter Hope somebody report on this also in time for the Holidays off the road pic nic ......lol





cheers

totoalas

[Nick_Z]

Totoalas:
In the video I posted a couple of posts ago, showing the crt core, it show him lighting the 7.5 watt led, 14 watt Cfl, and 60 watt incandescent, all between 500 and 600 mA. and all on 12v, on this type of crt yoke, so they do work.
Depending on the primary to secondary turns ration, this should be possible. Main thing is to be able to light these bulbs all the way I would use the same amount of turns as Lasersabe's new primary of 76 turns, and fill both halves of the yoke with the secondary, and wind the primary on top of the secondary. I'll do that with mine when I can get more magnet wire.
My set up will be connected to these 4 solar panels, but I need more amps to really make them light as they should. I'll hook them up tomorrow to see what they'll do on solar

[cncjoe]

Kind of embarrassed to post this cause I'm such a noob. I'm going to anyway because I would like to learn more but I need help. Can any of you guys give me a direction to go with my replication? Here's a vid of my progress so far.Lasersaber joule ringer 3 replication - YouTube Thanks!
joe

[Zardox]

You were probably lighting the small led off of just battery voltage. Are you sure that your transistor isn't fried? You might try swapping the end connections of your primary. Also I would start by not trying to light 150 watt bulb. Try a modest led bulb or a small cfl (not gutted). Good luck!

[hello_all]

Nick Z, great work , i am following you , i have a old sony tv big one ready to use , since u are my guide now , can u do some tests on the amp draw, as i have read the 7.5watt led will take close to 7.5watts of the input.

Video someone showed thing it is is 500ma at 12volts , which is 6 watts and maybe the bulb is not fully bright , 3rd if i add the mod of the piezo buzzer to base to make it brighter ,i am so confused , how does this circuit behave efficient, it is a cheap invertor which can drive the led's but those led's are available in 12v bare format also..?? so why to use this 12 -> high voltage 120 -> 12v back... when we can run straight 12v and get same lumens..

[Nick_Z]

Hello All:
Good questions, unfortunately I can't answer some of them.
The draw on Mangetictist video:
12v Super Joule Ringer 3.0 w/led, cfl, incandescent - YouTube
This video is showing an amp draw of only 500 mA,for 7.5 watt led bulb, and 550 mA for a 14 watt Cfl, and 600 mA for the 60 watt incandescent.
Pretty impressive, if true. Bulb brightness is blindingly bright, except on the 60 watt bulb, which may only be 50 to 70 % lit, or so. This is using only 1/2 of the yoke, so you can imagine winding the whole thing, with a primary 1/10 the number of turns as the secondary.
My analog meter has the higher amp draw burned out from the Exciter circuit use, so I can't tell what my circuit is drawing, as far as current.

My main objective is to brightly light all my Cfls bulbs, of which a have at least a dozen from 14 to 65 watts. I'm still working on this, as I have to hold the bulb for them to fully light brightly. If I connect the bulb negative connection back to the transistor's collector rail, as in the LS diagram, the circuit stops, or rings to high heaven. lol!!!
I would replicate the yoke with a full secondary windings all the way around to about 800 turns, or more, and 76 turns of 14gauge solid copper bell wire for the primary. Use only the 2n3055 transistor, and start with less than 12 volts to see how it goes, heat wise. This for 120 volt bulbs, but for 12v bulbs, I don't know what to advice as I'm going for gutted or ungutted Cfls bulbs fully lit.
Or, just wind the core with wild abandonment, like Jeanna from "Jeanna's Light" used to say.
Check her video for 12v bulbs, on a 3 inch torroid
.jeanna's Lidmotor's Jeanna's Light - YouTube

@b_rads:
I wanted to thank you for mentioning that if the circuit doesn't work to switch the polarity of the primary, or secondary wires around. Well, it made one hell of a difference for me. I wouldn't have thought of it myself, thanks again.
Some one suggested that I should mount the Cfl inside the ferrite yoke coil, so here it is... sorry for the mess, I've been busy.

NickZ

[cncjoe]

Thanks zardox! I'll try that!

[Nick_Z]

I just redid and re-soldered all the connections on the Joule Ringer Lamp, and connected the Cfl bulb's negative connection back to the transistor positive rail. I also added an earth ground. Now I'm able to obtain FULL BRIGHTNESS from any of the bulbs, without having to touch or hold the Cfl bulb.
The coil rang like crazy, so I added masking tape between the two yoke halves, and now it is much much quieter, and at an acceptable level.
The earth ground made this all possible, as it would not work 100% like this without it.
I'll be making a video soon.

Nick_Z

[Slider2732]

Looking forward to that
Looks like you might want to do the 1 wire out to the garden thing and see how it goes ?
There's something peculiarly satisfying about seeing a mains lightbulb out in the middle of the grass.

Quick update on that Vinnic zinc/carbon battery. It's still going ! Sits at about 0.654V, then it might fall to about 0.648V and then will rise again. Been going since the 3rd, with the 35hr run to a stop, then it re-fired up after a gap of nearly a day.
With reference to Bedini's latest videos, i think this thing is running itself.
Did the SJR 3.0 spark the heavily corroded and oxidated cell..into allowing a form of crystalline pathway for the collapse spikes of the oscillator ? It appears to be performing similarly to the lead/alum cells he has been testing on oscillators.
Nick, what say you ? I know you have much more experience of zinc/carbon than I do.

[Nick_Z]

Yes, the old battery can put out a few microamps, and 1/2 a volt o so, and dimly blink an led. The one minute charge is only temporary, after that they will produce weakly on their own.
My one and a half year old carbon/aluminum cells now have about 1 volt, and 35 to 50mAs each. No water added, they don't need it since they make their own and even form puddles. They have now made their own protective layers, also.
But, one AA battery and a garden light solar cell is more productive though, than several of these cells.
All carbon/zinc batteries produce a tiny bit of voltage and current, even without the bump charge.
That is why John B as moved on from the copper/mg cells. They are galvanic, and work by the Mg giving off its substance to produce that small amount of current. The more current they produce, the faster they break down. There may be some exceptions, when they work like a semiconductor, but is it worth the effort? I don't think so...

I would head towards the 3.0 ringer, it works fine with the yokes like you had before. The clips do seam to be important though.
I'm lighting my whole house right now using the Joule Ringer circuit and just one 65watt Cfl bulb...it lights all the way out to the garden. It's so bright that I have to put a lamp shade on it.
I'll do a video tomorrow. This is the best result I've seen yet.

What Lasersaber has shown us is almost magic. It works just like he says it does, and it's really easy to replicate. Best of all it costs almost nothing!!! It can be replicated anywhere, no need to have the expensive ferrite rods, E-core, etz... any old junk monitor or tv yoke will do.
I'll be connecting it up the my solar panels tomorrow. It was an overcast day all day today, but now that the circuit is working like it should, it will be a Solar Joule Ringer Lamp, soon.

[br0ns0n77]

Just wanted to give an update on my setup. I finally ordered the rod since I didn't have any CRTs or old TVs sitting around. I have it hooked up to my 12v output on my solar panel charging an alum car battery.

It is indeed like magic. I've had success lighting nearly everything I plug into it, but I have noticed the transistor runs a little warm when lighting CFLs. I'd like to get a bunch of LED bulbs, but man they are still expensive... maybe the prices will come down. It's a wonderful and practical solution for a workshed like Lasersaber has.

Any ideas on how to hook this up on a more permanent basis ie. on a circuit board or in a box somehow so it doesn't short out? I've never used anything like that - so just looking for some ideas.

Here's the video:
Solar Charging Alum Battery with Joule Ringer 3.0 - YouTube

[Slider2732]

@br0ns0n - I had no idea you have all those videos, have subscribed
Great idea there and looks like good results. See how it settles overnight and then you'll know for definite. Good strong portable method.

[totoalas]

Yes, the old battery can put out a few microamps, and 1/2 a volt o so, and dimly blink an led. The one minute charge is only temporary, after that they will produce weakly on their own.
My one and a half year old carbon/aluminum cells now have about 1 volt, and 35 to 50mAs each. No water added, they don't need it since they make their own and even form puddles. They have now made their own protective layers, also.
But, one AA battery and a garden light solar cell is more productive though, than several of these cells.
All carbon/zinc batteries produce a tiny bit of voltage and current, even without the bump charge.
That is why John B as moved on from the copper/mg cells. They are galvanic, and work by the Mg giving off its substance to produce that small amount of current. The more current they produce, the faster they break down. There may be some exceptions, when they work like a semiconductor, but is it worth the effort? I don't think so...

I would head towards the 3.0 ringer, it works fine with the yokes like you had before. The clips do seam to be important though.
I'm lighting my whole house right now using the Joule Ringer circuit and just one 65watt Cfl bulb...it lights all the way out to the garden. It's so bright that I have to put a lamp shade on it.
I'll do a video tomorrow. This is the best result I've seen yet.

What Lasersaber has shown us is almost magic. It works just like he says it does, and it's really easy to replicate. Best of all it costs almost nothing!!! It can be replicated anywhere, no need to have the expensive ferrite rods, E-core, etz... any old junk monitor or tv yoke will do.
I'll be connecting it up the my solar panels tomorrow. It was an overcast day all day today, but now that the circuit is working like it should, it will be a Solar Joule Ringer Lamp, soon.

Hi Nickz
have you coiled your crt toroid on half or whole and what amps please
thid build is good for anthing you throw at it (