Joule Ringer!

[hello_all]

Normally all the new led which are used in bulbs are rated for 9 to 16volts range.. So coming back to my earlier point , what is the purpose of up convert and then down convert , why not make 12volt dc to use it or square wave dc to save some more power.. Where is efficiency , now cfl lamps are different story as they need high voltage, so this will be ideal for them ringing cfl..without their circuitry.. But we are talking about efficiency... And most people here want this to run off a solar panel day and night.. Nick has done good job but without milliamperes measurement it is not possible to have this rated for solar panel.. Now I have a car battery a 10 watts solar panel and want to run this in my garage day and night , without knowing how much this bulb consume it would not be possible to do this

[Zardox]

I personally have tried several different transformers and torriods with differing amounts of winds. What I find is that with enough tweeking you can get just about anything to run. However when you start throwing different types of bulbs at it you have to start tweeking again to get it to work. Also I already have several other circuits that that we have built here over the last few years that will light a bulb more efficiently. I usually start off with what is a simple circuit and through experimentation grows into a complicated mass. Anyway as I have not seen anyone (myself included) demonstrate anything near as impressive as LaserSaber's original 3.0 lighting all those different bulbs I have broken down and finally ordered the 8" ferrite. After all br0ns0n77 seems to be happy.

[phantomrenegade]

Hi guys, I'm a newbie in this field, I'm from the Philippines, I try to duplicate Lidmotors Super Joule ringer 2.0, with his schematics, I duplicate it and when I tested it the 5 watts led light bulb is flickering, I don't understand what causes it, can you please help me?

[SkyWatcher]

Hi again phantom, if your using a regular transformer or not, the primary windings need to be a low enough resistance to get a higher oscillation frequency.
For example, just tested a 110-9volt regular small transformer with JR3 and it just flickered the cfl, because the primary was over 6 ohms, around 2 ohm primary or so seems to oscillate high enough to not be perceivable.
Experiment will tell for sure.
peace love light
tyson

[phantomrenegade]

Thanks Skywatcher, I used a transformer 3A with 220-110-0 volts in the secondary and 12-0-12 in the primary, I measured the resistance of the 12 to 0 terminal and it measured about 4 ohms each and 50 ohms each in 220 to 110 and 110 to zero. Is changing my transformer the only way to achieve faster oscillation?

[SkyWatcher]

Hi phantom, as far as the joule ringer 3 circuit goes, that is probably the case.
Though if you tried lasers joule ringer circuit where he used a resistor on base and a small capacitor in parallel with that base resistor, then that might work with the transformer you describe to get the frequency up, maybe.
peace love light
tyson

[phantomrenegade]

Hi skywatcher, can you suggest any value for the capacitor and do you think electrolytic can work with that? thanks again sky..

[br0ns0n77]

Does anyone know how or if you can modify the SJR 3.0 circuit easily to make a Slayer Exciter type tower? I wanted to try lighting up a few bulbs wirelessly and would like to use my current circuit without having to wind another secondary. Thanks for the help!

[hello_all]

experiment.. issues

ok this is my initial replication from the tv yolk , nick pls guide me on this, the joule ringer works for the led bulb 2wats from 3v till 12v but i tried till 9v as it was about to blow . So it is tiny bulb it works and 2N 3055 does not heat up at all , i placed a hit sink just incase.
2nd test is the CFL gutted 18 watts , it did not work with low amps , so i have to bring a 11v lipo with high amps and it ran the cfl , no ringing sound within half a min the transistor is hot .. so i don't get it , it must be my primary winding is less or more , what should i do to make the transistor cool.

here is the video..
Joule Ringer 3.0 using YOLK from TV - YouTube

i filled up the yolk with the wire which was on it completely and then used speaker wire to fill the primary.

[Nick_Z]

Hello All:
Your doing fine. You just need to keep tinkering with it until you get the results that you need. Using the led bulbs are your best bet though.
The ungutted Cfl may light on 12 volt or higher voltage, only if you also run an incandescent bulb along with it, but it wants the 15volts or higher. Also try the 14gauge solid copper wire for your primary, and remember that more turns, may not give better results. I only use 20 turns for my primary, and about 250 for the secondary, of 28gauge wire. Doubling the amount of turns did not work for me. This is not an Exciter, so the turn ratio is very important here.
I can light a florescent tube or gutted Cfl along with the incandescent 50 watt bulb. And a 40 watt incandescent lights less brightly than the bigger 50 watt bulb. Also try to obtain some dead Cfl bulbs, and gut them.
This circuit really works best on 15volts, like Lasersaber is using.
Although I got my system working tonight on a 12v battery, I can tell that it want more voltage, even though it has all the amps that it needs, it still needs the 15+ volts to work right. The transistor heating has to do with the turn ration. It's easy to solder more turns on, or trim some off, until you get the best results.

I'll post some more pictures tomorrow.
Nick_Z

[hello_all]

nick,

i think it would be 2 possibilites either make it work for 12v system or make it work for 5volt usb system .

1. usb system can be powered by solar chargers , there are some for charging batteries , those have some serious amps draws specially the ones which can charge a ipad.

2. the 12v system , the conventional car battery ones.

i will try to make one for the 12volt (15watts-18 watts) and other one for the USB (low amps) with solar hookup probably below 5 watts power.

will ask if i am struck..

[Nick_Z]

@ All:
As Lasersaber does not participate in all the different forums on a regular basis, I have taken the liberty of putting his reply to a question made by Plengo, concerning how LS works to improve and develop his devices, and their output power and efficiency.

This was Lasersaber's reply.
Quote:
"The only thing that comes to mind is taking careful power measurements while experimenting. My usual mode of experimenting is to have my power supply give me voltage and amperage for calculating a wattage total. I then connect my Joule Ringer and take careful wattage measurements while checking the light output with a lux meter. Once I am setup and going like this I go through hundreds of different variations while taking careful measurements. Once I am on a roll I try different wire sizes, cores, shapes, permeability, wire insulation thicknesses, magnets, driver circuits, and a thousand other things. I often have the circuit running while adjusting the number of winds on a primary and even a secondary. this is very hard but it pays off. By doing this it’s kind of like learning to play music by ear. The most important part of this whole process is taking live power measurements while testing the device".

My thanks to LS for his reply.

That is why I suggest everyone to follow his advice, so that all those hours of research and development are not needed to be repeated, by everyone else.

Here is some information on ferrite rods, their price, and permeability:
(903) 383-7047 Monster FERRITE RODS. Plastic coated ferrite rods. OEM.

Nick_Z

[b_rads]

Yoke Transformer

@Nick_Z, Hello_all, and others,
A wile back, I picked up an old dynamo radio/television/flashlight from the thrift store. My intentions were to recycle the radio/flashlight dynamo for emergencies. I remembered the tv part this weekend and set about some experiments. The yoke on this is really just a single piece torrid measuring about 2 ¾” outside diameter, 2 ¼” inside diameter, and approximately 1” tall. It has the two original sets of windings on each side and they are connected using a center tap. Each set of winding has about 5.1 ohms resistance. I wound 24g bell wire over the top of the original windings with a tap every 5 turns for a total of approx 50 turns. This yoke and using LaserSaber’s 3.0 circuit, I am able to light LED’s 120 vac, unmodified CFL’s – 13 watt 120 vac, and 4 watt incandescent 120 vac night lights. This was using ½ of the original turns on the yoke and the full number of bell wire turns. This setup has given me the best results thus far on the 7.5 watt LED using 6 watts and approx 80% light output. I did measure this with a LUX meter. While running CFL’s and incandescent’s the efficiency is not nearly as good and the 2n3055 gets very warm running higher currents. Using fewer turns on the bell wire, I can light more bulbs, but this overdrives a single bulb.
Brad S

[Nick_Z]

Brad:
Thanks for your input. Sounds good. It would be interesting to see a video of your different lights, lighting on different tap points. The 15 volts or higher voltages may also be important for multiple Cfl, or Leds.
I'm using 23 volts right now off of my solar panels, for my 3.0 yoke circuit, but I don't have enough amps from my small panels.
If we try to economize on the input source we'll end up with lower light levels. I think that it's important to be able to make the brightest light possible using this set up. I don't think that we can light our house on mAs. Which is the goal that I'm going for.
The new 10 watt leds are much cheaper than buying several of the ready made 7.5 watt AC bulbs, and they have 900 lm., which is more than most of the AC led bulbs have, up to now.
Like these (below). Has anyone tried them???
5pcs 10W Watt LED Cool White High Power 900LM LED Lamp SMD Chip 9 12V DC | eBay

If you haven't see it, Manetictist has this video out, and an interesting forum with great information on his different 3.0 transformers type tests, including the yokes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=e3wifl_FnZod bulbs.

Lidmotor made a test using Ac 110v led bulbs, along with their Dc 12v counterparts, and it looked like the Dc bulbs had just as much, or even higher output levels. The cool whites are somewhat brighter than the warm whites, so it may not have been a fair test. But, they are close to providing the same lumens, in any case.

[Guruji]

Hi guys did anyone try another coil to driver coil with a adjustable cap for resonance. I once tried this but could not do it.
This was told by Zilano.
If anyone succeed please let us know.
Thanks