Joule Ringer!

[hello_all]

Brian,

I will be easier to order :

Motorola NPN 2N6258 Audio Power Amp Transistor to 3 | eBay

this is best upgrade motorola 2N6258 , it is 250watts 30amp vs RCA 2n3055 150watts 15amp..

[b_rads]

Electronics Circuit::12V Power Inverter

this is a inverter based on the 2n3055 which can handle 300 watts but with replacement NTE181 it can handle 1kw ..

i think the transformer can be replaced with the yolk core and then let it go..

Lidmotor has a video of this circuit (or very similiar) flip flop inverter you should look at. He was impressed with it and boxed it up as a keeper. I agree that the ferrite yoke would be interesting to try and have this circuit on my to-do list. I recently replicated the flip-flop for another project and was also impressed.

Your LSJR3 turned out great, once you tune the primary and secondary - the thing works like a charm. Also, put an on/off switch on the bulb and a fuse on the input for protection when you finalize the build. The on/off switch on the bulb will also turn the circuit on/off and you will not have to disconnect the battery. In honor of Halloween - the switch will kill the vampire on this circuit.

I admire all builders who can recycle as many parts as possible. I give many of my builds away to friends and as a result, they all collect their throw-away electronics and donate them to me. As a result, I have many projects stacking up on the bench waiting for me - LOL

Brad S

[hello_all]

brad,

i am a nifty person , so i never throw the home appliances which quits , i have tv microwaves , vcr's and lot other toys in basement for my project.
Also for the crt yolk i have to call someone on criaglist to reserve the big tv they were throwing away for me . Once i had 2 drill motors given by my buddy for asymmetrical motors but i never made them because i don't know what efficiency i could get out of it..

yep nowdays i am busy with the halloween , so some spooky lights are in progress for the night , those red/green/blue fading ones in pumpkins ...
also i ordered the motorola 30 watts transistor and will make another JR3 with that to drive multiple led bulbs ... looking at some microwave parts ..

other test i did was to run a cfl 75 watts (16 watts input), not modified , it did light bright and took all the juice and core rang a little, but made the transistor little hot so i stopped. a modified gutted CFL test did not work , strange ...

measured the voltage it is 145volt out , frequency varies based on the load...

[hello_all]

for the heat , if the frequency of the transistor gets low it gets heated very fast , and cfl are the ones which makes them heat more , led are fine , also one more thing is for getting more amps out of the JR3 , the thicker gauge primary will be best for 2-3amp of driving it like running 6 led bulbs each 7.5 watts .. so around 30 watts consumption max u can do with 20355 transistor.

[vallentin]

helloall
What do you mean by let it go? sorry for the noob question

He means to replace the transformer with the transformer made on the ferrite yoke. Look at his video. There's a half ferrite yoke transformer (handmade).

[totoalas]

Lidmotor has a video of this circuit (or very similiar) flip flop inverter you should look at. He was impressed with it and boxed it up as a keeper. I agree that the ferrite yoke would be interesting to try and have this circuit on my to-do list. I recently replicated the flip-flop for another project and was also impressed.

Your LSJR3 turned out great, once you tune the primary and secondary - the thing works like a charm. Also, put an on/off switch on the bulb and a fuse on the input for protection when you finalize the build. The on/off switch on the bulb will also turn the circuit on/off and you will not have to disconnect the battery. In honor of Halloween - the switch will kill the vampire on this circuit.

I admire all builders who can recycle as many parts as possible. I give many of my builds away to friends and as a result, they all collect their throw-away electronics and donate them to me. As a result, I have many projects stacking up on the bench waiting for me - LOL

Brad S

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...ad.php?t=12438

ps try this very simple circuit totoalas

[hello_all]

More tests on this using 12v 7.5amp battery.

1. blackberry charger - works
2. iphone5 charger - works
3. panasonic cordless phone - works
4. ipad 10 watts charger - does not work ??
5. jbl sounddoc charger for ipod toch - charges and plays music -ok
6. 7.5 watts led light - works best
7. 2 watts light - about to blow the light - so stopped..

heavier items.
- internet wirless router + modem - did show power but transistor hot stopped
- latop 18watts - same as above
- 18 watts cfl - same as above

overall it needs a better transistor and more primary windings which can handle power waiting for that..

the output is a edges sine wave , not a smooth ones maybe lasersaber comes up with some smoothening trick..

[hello_all]

My ultimate preparation test for the Storm Tonight.. finally i have perfected on this joule ringer to work on most important devices..

here is the video:
Joule Ringer 3.0 - Yolk based running iphone and other phones - YouTube

[Nick_Z]

Guys:
So, I spent another day working on my newest version of the 3.0 Ringer. In an effort to obtain a closer replication of Lasersabers design, I used the 2n3055, instead of the TIP (MJE) 2055T. Which does produce a bit more light, for the same input power, but still gets just as hot. it Will boil water...
I also made a new coil using several ferrite beads in line, like the ones that come in the Crt monitors and Tv.
My new bead core is 5 inches long, by 3/4 inch wide including the windings. I used 28 gauge magnet wire for the approximately 400 to 500 turn secondary, and 65 turns on the primary of speaker wire (unknown gauge) of possibly 20 gauge, or so. It makes less ringing than the yoke cores, and lights the bulbs brighter especially the incandescents, than the my Crt yoke coil set up. I wish that I had a few more of the ferrite beads, to make the core at least 8 inches, long, or longer. I may make it longer yet, if I can obtain some more of those beads. As they do work...
I'll upload a video of it lighting some bulbs tomorrow, or so.
Here's a couple of pics.

[Nick_Z]

Here is my latest video of the ferrite bead core coil, the one shown in the previous post. The TIP 3055 Transistor is running warm on the Cfl, and a bit hot on the 60 watt incandescent. I'll be mounting the new 2n3055 transistor on a heat-sink tomorrow, it does light all bulbs a bit brighter, but does also get hot on the incandescent, but not on the Cfls.

Joule Ringer 3.0.- Lighting a regular 60 watt bulb, and a CFL bulb - YouTube

[Guruji]

Hi guys can anyone post a schematic of this joule ringer? Is it same as JT but on a ferrite rod?
Thanks

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi nick, thanks for sharing.
Have some 20 or 22 gauge speaker wire here to try, will rewind the 8" long ferrite bead core, though do not have 28 gauge magnet wire, only 30 awg.
So will try the 30 gauge.
Did you wind multiple layers for the 28 gauge winding and is the 20 gauge speaker winding one layer or multiple, thanks.
Also, what voltage input are you using with the bead core ringer, thanks.
peace love light
tyson

[Nick_Z]

Skywatcher and All:
I used 4 ferrite beads, and a single layer of 28 gauge, your 30 will also work. And 65 turns of about 20 gauge speaker wire.
Even the 2n3055 does get hot while lighting the incandescent bulb, But, it lights a small 7 watt incandescent bulb real nice, with little heat.
I wish that Lasersaber would let us know if his circuit gets hot when running the incandescents, as he is not using a heat sink.
He's running almost everything in the SolN1 video on a 200watt inverter, not the ferrite rod coil, only the big led bulb at the end of the video was running on the rod coil. Maybe the ferrite rod can also be used to help to pulse charge the batteries, especially some bigger 100ah car batteries, or deep cycle golf cart batteries.

Looks like my circuit is putting out over 1000 volts AC, without anything drawing on it, and about 300 volts with a 40 watt incandescent bulb, and only 75 volts lighting a 50 watt incandescent bulb. So, it may be too high for the ungutted Cfl bulb, as its internal circuit was getting very hot, and started to smoke, so I turned it off, although everything else was not too hot. I ran the circuit on 12v battery, but, it really needs more like 15 to 18v + to have the bulbs fully lit, and at that voltage the transistor gets too hot, so... I don't know what to do about that. More tests are needed.
I tried a diode on the base, and it seamed to help. I also tried some resistors, which did not help. More primary winds will reduce the bulb brightness.
Has someone tried a 12v to 120v car inverter to compare the results???
Any ideas are welcome.
Nick

[Guruji]

Ok saw the circuit interesting.

[hello_all]

Nick if you go to Wikipedia and look at. 2n3055. U will find some interesting facts abou heating of it .. Hopefully u will get answers there