Joule Ringer!

[Nick_Z]

Thanks for the tip. Here is the info on the back of the Radio Shack 2n3055. I've already burnt out a brand new one that was brought to me from the U.S. Even before I had a chance to mount it properly. My new ferrite bead ringer core outputs over 1000 volts Ac without a load on the circuit. So, the spikes are killing it, even before it even has a chance to warm up. Just letting you know that unloaded the circuit can kill the transistor. May be the meter connection, even without any other load. I don't know... But, when I doubled my secondary windings I got higher voltages yet, but less current, and the circuit needs current, especially for the big Cfls.
The TIP 3055T works almost as well, and seams to hold up longer.
I tried several different transistors yesterday, like the ones from Tv high voltage, or the D1300K7, the TIP 122, the TIP 3055, and many others. Although they all worked, they all work differently. Some work better than others. Some heat up more, but they ALL heat up under big loads. And only a single 50 watt incandescent is a big load for my circuit. Plus, really 15 or more volts are needed to fully light anything, except the led bulbs, which I can't afford, at least not the 7.5 watt ones, or higher output.
My 25 watt Cfl outputs 1350 lumen, and it costed only about $3. The 4 big 65 watt Cfls that I have, give over 2600 lumen each bulb, but these circuits won't fully light them.
So, if anyone finds the solution to the low light output, the transistor overheating issues, or the inability to light more than a bulb or two of 600 to 850 lumens or higher type of bulbs, please let us know.
Those that have 12v car inverters please let us know just what they can do, comparatively, also. As I may just go that route, instead. As just a single solar cell more added to a solar panels arrays output, will overcome the small additional 1/4 amp load that the regular car battery inverters draw.
With the perfect storm that is going on now, and other storms that have been predicted to come in the future, we REALLY, REALLY, need to get on the ball with this.


Nick_Z

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi nick, thanks for sharing the information.
Kind of figured you would fry that transistor, which is why these couple 2n3055's here are not going to be used to test that circuit anymore, want them to live.
Have a vector 750 watt inverter here that works well, though the small 7ah SLA batteries can only handle so much load.
You could always go the incroyable inverter route or the simple inverter, with a big enough transformer, can power cfl's and probably incandescent bulbs.
By the way, that storm and most others are not natural, leave you to figure out why.
peace love light
tyson

[Djoko]

SJR 3.0 Boxed

Hi guys,

Here my video that mentioned by Nickz. I light up 2 CFL (18 Watt & 11 Watt) and 3 LED Bulb ( one 3 Watt and two x 1 Watt). It draw a litlr over 2 Amp but the transistor sitll old.
SIR 3.0 10mm Ferrite.mp4 Up-Date - YouTube

Rgd
Djoko

[Djoko]

SJR 3.0 Mini

Another my SJR 3.0. This is mini SJR 3.0 since all component (transistor + heat sink and Transformer) enclosed in E-27 fitting.
Here is the video :
SJR 3 0 Mini E Core - YouTube
Here the picture :

Rgd
Djoko

[Nick_Z]

Thanks for sharing guys. Looks like the right high perm ferrite rod with the correct winding, along with a proper heat-sink is the answer. No heat and no ringing.
We can't be afraid of losing some transistors, my pile of them is growing. But Lasersaber did his home work, and probably went through more than a few of them, to get the results he has obtained so far. He buys his 2n3055 from the source listed (below). So, at less than a dollar each, it's not big deal to lose a few. I've already ordered more, it will take about a week to get here.
He also mentioned that at over an amp draw after a while that even on his set up they will get hot, with out a heat sink. So, take that for what it's worth. Heat sinks are really needed. Just remember about the spikes, also. Gadgetmall also mentioned having gone through 8 or more of those transistors.

Concerning the storm, well, boys and their toys... They could have diverted it, like was done on the hurricane that was in the gulf that was headed right towards the drilling rigs, and was diverted almost 90 degrees.
So, you're probably right...

2n3055 Transistor deals:
50 Pieces Toshiba 2N3055 60V 15Amp Transistor Free Priority Shipping in US | eBay

[br0ns0n77]

Hey guys - looking for a good source for TO-3 heatsinks for the 2n3055 transistor that comes with everything like this:

1pc Aluminium Heatsink HS 50100 to 3 x1 Size 50x100x25mm Black 1set Socket | eBay

The price looks good, just didn't wanna pay 7 bucks for shipping

Thanks in advance.

[gyula]

Hi br0ns0n,77,

If you could "lurk" around PC service shops or just at your next door neighbours you may be given as a present some unused or 'obsolote' or whatever PC power supply units and they include several good heat sinks. It is true those heat sinks host mainly TO220 casing Schottky diodes and power transistors and not the TO3 case a 2N3055 normally have, but then you could use TIP3055 or similar even better types instead.
You may also consider just using an Alu piece of a certain surface area and mount the transistor onto it.

Gyula

[plengo]

Guys,

please forgive me for intruding like this and asking this question. I cannot read 51 pages (I will for sure now, but) to find this information:

Is this thread about controlling colors from one output cell, millions of colors from one CFL lamp? (at around 5:47 on Super Joule Ringer - Boxed and Tested - YouTube.

Fausto.

[Billxx]

Hi.I while back I used a small 5v buzzer to trigger an inverter circuit and I have added it to a jouleringer variant after modifying the buzzer so it does not emit any sound so it is basically acting as a pulse driving circuit for the base and it works really well with increased efficiency and output.
Here is a vid of the experiment.
Buzzer triggered Jouleringer variant - YouTube

JonnyDavro,

I replicated your circuit except I'm powering a 18W (gutted) CFL and I put a RC circuit from the POS rail to the transistor base in place of your pot/buzzer arrangement and I'm using a 3v batt pack (2x1.5v std 595mah batt's), it works great. I could only get max 5 1/2 hrs total runtime with the other joule ringer circuits, but, with your circuit it goes 15 hrs with the light fully lit (not full 100% brightness but very good light) and another 3 hrs after that where it decays with the rings of the CFL shutting down. The extended runtime I get with this is phenominal.

The RC circuit is a 50K pot with 7 mylar caps in parallel with it. Oh, and I put a small .3" dia magnet on top of the transformer.

Here is a pic of the assembled breadboard project...

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Next, I plan to integrate a (555) PWM between the POS rail and the transistor base in place of your buzzer. I'll probably have to increase the batt pack to 6v with this circuit.

Thanks for sharing this circuit, it's a great project.

[jonnydavro]

Hi Billxx.15 hours runtime on 3v is pretty amazing,especially with a cfl as I find these draw quite a bit of current compared with LED bulbs so your RC base connection and magnet seem to be well matched to your transformer.
Do you know the current draw of your setup and maybe a pic of the bulb lit?
You could easily run this for free by charging via solar by day and use it instead of the lights you normally leave on at night.
I hope you do try a 555 timer on the base to give you complete control as I think you will get very good results as it is easy to overdrive the transistor and needlessly waste battery power.The buzzer works very well to do this and is quick to implement and that is the setup which I have had my best results with.
Thanks for sharing your experiment.Jonny.

[Billxx]

Hi Billxx.15 hours runtime on 3v is pretty amazing,especially with a cfl as I find these draw quite a bit of current compared with LED bulbs so your RC base connection and magnet seem to be well matched to your transformer.
Do you know the current draw of your setup and maybe a pic of the bulb lit?

Jonny, this is really cool, the capacitor bank acts like adding energy cells to the circuit. I just used what I had so the caps vary in size, .01, .1, .473, .103..., they're all mylar, one is cylindrical but it's mylar.

This is amazing, like you say, the current initially was 260ma dropping very slowly for about an hour then dropped to 150ma for a couple hrs then it dropped to 120ma for a couple more hrs then it dropped to 100 ma for many hrs and at the end after 18hrs it was at 50ma and the voltage was at 2.20 volts. I disconnected it at that point, only a fraction of the bottom ring was lit.

The Batt Pack is only 3v (2x1.5AA std 595mah).

The breadboard circuit is not a very good platform for testing, to take these pictures I moved it and, well, all the temporary connections changed everything, you know how that is.

The light is white-white (cool white) for about an hour then it changes to a yellow-white (warm white) for the balance of the time. When it's white-white it's at its brightest and then it drops a little in brightness when its yellow-white but still very good light. (15hrs)

Here are some pics, very embarrassed how they look, but, it's the best I could do in a short time...

Lit CFL...

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In total black room...

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Voltmeter reading...

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Ammeter reading...

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Anyway, this capacitor bank brings new possibilities and the 555 PWM circuit may offer even more possibilities. It'll take a little while to come up with the right combo of resistors and caps with the 555, but, as soon as I get it together, as crude as it may be at first, I'll post my findings.

Thanks again for sharing your circuit, it certainly opened up new interesting possibilities.

Oh, as soon as I can (tomorrow or the next day), I'll post a hand drawn circuit diagram of how all this is because there are some extra components needed for the CFL, etc.


Billxx

[hello_all]

another similiar project i worked on , it has joule ringer circuit to charge lipo ..

i made changes to solar lamp , added 3 more led from a dollar store flashlight and a flicker light , also changed to 3.2v lifepo4 1100 mah and added the circuit to charge the battery when in sun.


Making a Solar Lamp - modified super bright and flicker light - YouTube

i was thinking more about the finished side on this one.. just a lamp which is beautiful to look at

[Billxx]

jonnydavro,

Here is the circuit diagram of the project with the RC circuit to the transistor base...

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As you noted, this circuit is tuned to the Fuji transistor/transformer combo. I substituted the Fuji transistor with a 2N4401 and, while it worked, the 2N4401 didn't perform same, not as good, as the Fuji transistor.

Well, I'll move on to the 555 PWM circuit with the Fuji transistor/transformer and maybe consider changing to another transistor/transformer combo too, I don't know.

Billxx

[jonnydavro]

Hi Billxx.Thanks for posting your circuit and pics,that is a nice brightness and colour .
I was wondering about what type of transformer you were using and the fuji seems like a very good choice especially for cfl bulbs .
When i was experimenting with fuji transformers with lasersabers jouleringer 1, I also found the fuji transistor performed the best but there will be others you can try as the fuji one's are easily blown.
I do recall Slider made a list on transistor performance in regards to his wireless experiments and it may be worth having a look at that.It is buried somewhere on this forum so best ask him where.
Looking forward to your pwm experiments and thanks for sharing.Jonny.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Decided to try and build an air coil transformer to power these gutted cfl bulbs, using the joule ringer 2.0 circuit where base goes to emitter, following in the footsteps of the lighting burnt filament fluorescent bulb thread started.
Only downside is, not sure how to dim the bulb with this circuit, compared to the meissner oscillator lamp have been working on.
Otherwise, to these eyes, it is performing a little bit better than the ferrite core the meissner lamp is using.
Only odd thing is, is that when the high voltage secondary from the base is connected one way, then it draws around 410 milliamps at 12 volt input for around 60-70% full brightness, which for the light output it is giving, beats the ferrite solenoid core, which draws around 600 milliamps for the same brightness.
Then, when the wires are switched around on the cfl, the bulb goes to almost full brightness, at around 1 amp.
Maybe since the filaments in this particular bulb are good, it is causing this difference, either way, works very well and at the 410 milliamp draw, transistor and heat sink is luke warm.
The air coil former is taken from a large permanent ink marker, 1" diameter X 5" long.
4 layers of 30awg. magnet wire, for 1600 turns, then placed on top of that, 2-1/2 layers of 125 bifilar turns of 16 gauge speaker wire, though only one strand is used, so that means a spaced apart 62 turn primary.
Reason bifilar was used, because this was meant to be powered by the meissner circuit, though did not work.
Will unwind the bifilar and use a single strand and see how that changes anything.
Here are a few pics of a 13 watt gutted cfl running, first pic is at 1 amp input, second pic is at 410 milliamps.


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peace love light
tyson