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  • Hi totoalas, yes, each particular gutted cfl type in question, needs a particular voltage, current and frequency for a nice light quality, output and efficiency.
    Realized this on the flyback cores, had way too many secondary turns and the bulb was hardly lit at all, brought the turns down from over a 1000 to aorund 600 and it works great.
    Probably could remove another layer for around 400 or so turns and it will match the primary much better for efficiency and there will be very little stray voltage and the meters will read properly and not bounce all over or go off the scale.
    Great wisdom in this video clip.
    Scene from The Little Prince - YouTube



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
    tyson

    Comment


    • Originally posted by jonnydavro View Post
      @Billxx.Looking forward to seeing your results,they sound really promising
      Please also try led bulbs with your setup and possibly post a circuit diagram.Cheers.Jonny.
      @jonnydavro,

      Jonny, I'm having great success with the PWM circuit except the fuji transformer must be limiting how bright the bulb will go and since the battery pack is limited to 595mah this must also be a factor.

      I bought a 4w 250 lumen LED and it'll get to about 60% brightness at 3volts, 350ma and somewhere around 80% at 9v, 650ma. (No heat in the circuit )

      I changed the connection of the bulb from the POS (+) rail to the transistor collector and that made everything work a whole lot better with the PWM circuit. This PWM circuit is a lot of fun and I can even tweak the circuit just by moving the magnet on top of the transformer, for that matter, the PWM will only work with the magnet on top of the transformer.

      For simplicity, your Piezo buzzer and potentiometer arrangement is the easiest way to go.

      My next step is to find another transformer/transistor match that could possibly fully light these bulbs.

      Anyway, Happy Holidays!

      Billxx

      ps. Jonny, I'll post a circuit diagram in a new post as soon as I can.
      Last edited by Billxx; 12-27-2012, 06:13 AM.

      Comment


      • Replication of jonnydavro's buzzer inverter JR variant with PWM Mod...

        @jonnydavro,

        Jonny, I'm posting a couple pictures of the BreadBoard assembly and schematic diagram of the circuit with the PWM Mod.

        Here's a link where I got the PWM circuit from...

        Pulse Width Modulation

        With this circuit I'll move on to look for a better suited transformer to drive the bulb so the PWM becomes a more effective component of the circuit.

        I hope it'll be OK to post this info at LaserSaber's forum. The circuit reconfig is actually the SJR3 with the PWM circuit added.







        Kudos to you, Jonny, for the concept of using the Piezo buzzer/PWM in the circuit to improve the efficiency and performance.

        Thanks again for sharing this concept.

        Happy New Year!

        Billxx

        Comment


        • Originally posted by ewizard View Post
          I look forward to seeing more on your setup. I was working last night with a different sort of bi-toroid dual bifilar setup running from a 555 based square wave gen I built just for this. So far it's lighting LED's but no OU yet. I'm trying to find a way to recharge the 9 volt supply battery from this setup. I also had a gutted CFL running from this coil setup and 120 volt LED at the same time but power was from a 12 volt Nicad pack for that. I'm always looking for ways to keep the battery up or increase in voltage so it sounds like you're onto something really good there.
          @ewizard,

          As jonnydavro pointed out, the CFL is real power hungry so after I find a better suited transformer I'm going to revisit driving a CFL bulb with the modified circuit, but, for now, I'm focusing on getting a circuit to over drive an LED bulb.

          Kudos to Jonny for his success in over driving the 2w bulb with the Piezo buzzer/potentiometer arrangement, I chose the 4w bulb to give the circuit a new target.

          I'm using the 555 CMOS chip so I can power the circuit with voltages down to 2.4v to be able to use rechargeable 1.2v cells. It would be cool to power a bulb at night and then maybe recharge the batteries with like a couple small 3" solar panels during the daytime.

          I'm not entirely sure if it would work in charging a battery, but, I was able to set other voltages within the circuit using a Zener diode/resistor. It might work...

          Anyway, this circuit is fun in developing it and to over drive a larger, more usable, bulb may be quite a challenge, no doubt.

          If and when there's any appreciable advancement I'll post an update.

          Happy New Year!

          Billxx
          Last edited by Billxx; 12-30-2012, 08:12 AM.

          Comment


          • Update to My Replication of jonnydavro's buzzer inverter JR variant with PWM Mod...

            @jonnydavro

            Jonny, I combined your circuit and LaserSaber's SJR3 circuit. I'm having real good success with this circuit, it slows down battery drain and the bulb brightness is more intense with this circuit.

            Here is the updated circuit schematic diagram...



            This really a fun circuit to develop. I'll be looking at another transistor/transformer arrangement now because I think the Fuji transformer is the limiting factor in the circuit.

            Billxx

            Comment


            • Hi Billxx.You really have developed your circuit,this is far in advance than what I did .I think you are right to try different transformers.I think you will get even better light output with larger transformers ,maybe worth trying a flyback transformer as well.
              Thanks for updating us on your progress.Jonny

              Comment


              • Hi guys. This isn't exactly related to the recent posts but I hope it may be useful for someone. While ago I tried simple oscillator idea to power Cree LED. I don't remember who came up with this design (Lidmotor?) but it worked pretty well. I tried different transformers and best results were with large ferrite toroid which actually fried one channel of my scope.
                I've been working lately on electronic healing devices Positive effects of negative ions - Page 3and want it to try different approach to get a source of negative ions. I decided to use this circuit with Cockroft Walton multiplier and the results are satisfactory. The best are small ferrite transformers since their ability to work quiet with higher frequency. I'm getting anywhere from 3,000 - 10,000 output (depending on transformer).
                I thought to share.


                Vtech
                Last edited by blackchisel97; 08-02-2013, 12:20 AM.
                'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'

                General D.Eisenhower


                http://www.nvtronics.org

                Comment


                • I've managed to somehow burn out two power transistors while using 24v (two 12v batteries in series). I was trying to obtain full output from my inverters, which are the LS 3.0 4 ferrite bead rod, or with the yoke core circuit. I don't know why the transistors burned out, but they did.
                  So, I really have not been able to test the higher voltages to obtain the higher Cfl bulb brightness to my satisfaction.
                  The inverters will light a 7 watt night light incandescent bulb with very little to no heating, but when using higher wattage bulbs there is always heat on the transistors, or ringing on the cores. Led bulbs are still heating the transistors, but to a much less degree.
                  At this point I'm ready to try the commercial car inverters, as I've been at this for a while now, to no real avail. Some car inverters only hog up 0.120 amps at idle. So, that is not much to lose.
                  I noticed that most of the higher output car inverters have cooling fans incorporated inside. That is what is needed in my 3.0 versions, in order to be able to use the circuits for long periods of time. That may be one of the reasons why some car inverters draw 0.250 amps, which is still reasonable for a 200 to 400 watt output.
                  My solar cells are on their way, for my homemade panel. But, will take a couple more weeks before they are brought to me here, from the U.S.

                  Not much going on in these forums lately... is everyone asleep?

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Nick_Z View Post
                    I've managed to somehow burn out two power transistors while using 24v (two 12v batteries in series). I was trying to obtain full output from my inverters, which are the LS 3.0 4 ferrite bead rod, or with the yoke core circuit. I don't know why the transistors burned out, but they did.
                    So, I really have not been able to test the higher voltages to obtain the higher Cfl bulb brightness to my satisfaction.
                    The inverters will light a 7 watt night light incandescent bulb with very little to no heating, but when using higher wattage bulbs there is always heat on the transistors, or ringing on the cores. Led bulbs are still heating the transistors, but to a much less degree.
                    At this point I'm ready to try the commercial car inverters, as I've been at this for a while now, to no real avail. Some car inverters only hog up 0.120 amps at idle. So, that is not much to lose.
                    I noticed that most of the higher output car inverters have cooling fans incorporated inside. That is what is needed in my 3.0 versions, in order to be able to use the circuits for long periods of time. That may be one of the reasons why some car inverters draw 0.250 amps, which is still reasonable for a 200 to 400 watt output.
                    My solar cells are on their way, for my homemade panel. But, will take a couple more weeks before they are brought to me here, from the U.S.

                    Not much going on in these forums lately... is everyone asleep?
                    Hi Nickz
                    Have you tried a Slayer with the secondary coil connected to earth ground ( not mains ground) and not to the base of transistor

                    I thick there s a great potential in harnessing the hv to light up cfls and negative pole of sla batteries

                    happy experimenting

                    totoalas

                    Comment


                    • an off topic but related to Vtech circuit

                      Carmenbees Synchrotheraphy

                      Hope this is also related to your tech and can be combined for internal/ external application

                      totoalas

                      Comment


                      • Totoalas:
                        Yes, I've made several different Exciter set ups, all using earth ground. No big light there, at least for not for me. And using higher voltages also fries the transistors.
                        It was using 24v that fried my two transistors, and also burnt out my 7watt incandescent bulb. All are easy to replace. Now I'm trying the EN13007 transistor out of a Cfl's internal circuit, with good results, no heat on Led bulbs.
                        I also have my LS 3.0 versions connected to an earth ground, at the negative side of the load, but not a big difference there either, just a slight improvement in brightness.
                        I would really like to see a device that can run on NO external man made input, but for now solar seam to see the easiest way to have some input that is really free energy. If you can afford it...
                        A much bigger version of these 3.0 circuits would be great, one that can really light ones house. Possibly using like 100 watt input from solar, and getting 1000watt or higher output, or at least an equivalent light intensity.
                        As solar is still very expensive for what you get. The governments and power companies made sure of that.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Nick_Z View Post
                          Totoalas:
                          Yes, I've made several different Exciter set ups, all using earth ground. No big light there, at least for not for me. And using higher voltages also fries the transistors.
                          It was using 24v that fried my two transistors, and also burnt out my 7watt incandescent bulb. All are easy to replace. Now I'm trying the EN13007 transistor out of a Cfl's internal circuit, with good results, no heat on Led bulbs.
                          I also have my LS 3.0 versions connected to an earth ground, at the negative side of the load, but not a big difference there either, just a slight improvement in brightness.
                          I would really like to see a device that can run on NO external man made input, but for now solar seam to see the easiest way to have some input that is really free energy. If you can afford it...
                          A much bigger version of these 3.0 circuits would be great, one that can really light ones house. Possibly using like 100 watt input from solar, and getting 1000watt or higher output, or at least an equivalent light intensity.
                          As solar is still very expensive for what you get. The governments and power companies made sure of that.
                          Thanks for the test results nickz
                          In Slayer we dont use spark gaps on our primary......
                          I tried to use an ordinary connector with two thin wires parallel with caps
                          and produced a lot of sparks on my coil

                          one side will fully light my fluoro lamp and the spark charges the negative pole of my 7 ah battery from 12.5 to 13.5 in a short time.
                          thats my first and last test as I fried the circuit lol
                          HV NEGATIVE DC CHARGER 200113 - YouTube
                          totoalas
                          Last edited by totoalas; 01-21-2013, 02:37 AM.

                          Comment


                          • Sou hobbista interessado nos diversos tipos de material e das técnicas de manuseio, com formação acadêmica na área de humanidades . Decerto, pouco ou nada entendo da eletro-eletrônica. Desculpem-me se, por acaso, a dúvida que adiante deixo "sub examine" aos "experts" seja imprópria aos princípios e técnicas aplicados à nobre arte. A "?" consiste em saber se posso enrolar a bobina de um toróide em torno de um ímã de alto-falante. Obrigado se houver resposta.

                            Comment


                            • Hi folks, hi donmatos, this was mentioned before in some thread.
                              Though have not tried using the toroid ferrite permanent magnet from a speaker.
                              If the magnetism could be removed and kept that way, then it might work ok, not sure until it is tried.
                              Someone did say that by heating the speaker magnet, it then became brittle and broke apart, so keep that in mind, if you try it.
                              hope that helps.
                              peace love light
                              tyson

                              Comment


                              • Where To Buy Transistor

                                Originally posted by Billxx View Post
                                Big fan of Dr. Lirpa Sloof. Very common transistor...



                                HEY, HI, SORRY TO BOTHER YOU BUT IM LOOSING MY MIND TRYING TO FIND A PLACE TO BUY THE TIP OFF 0401 TRANSISTOR, IVE CALLED AROUND THE WORLD, MAYBE YOU CAN DIRECT ME, I WOULD REALY APPRECIATE IT, THANKS

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