as ususl I feel this is going to tie in like so much of the other usefull tech in this forum. it always seem to me that most of FE "orbits" (no pun intended) around the same general principle. Wont surprise me when this is somehow tied to stubblefield or other long lost technology
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SSG Modification anomaly
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Update
I changed batteries on my circuit and got the neon staying on. Like Zooty did
at first. Then switched to another primary battery and got same result as first
primary. Wondering why different batteries are acting that way ? Maybe condition has something to do with it. None of them are all that great. They
are all older ones I have been trying to recover with radiant charging.
All are 12v, mostly car batteries.
FRC
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New design, Better results!
While playing around with different configurations i stumbled upon another effect that i think is well worth looking in to. I set up a normal SSG circuit but instead i took away the wheel/magnets,used an air core bifilar and increased the base resistance to make it self oscillate. I used 4.6k on the base to make the setup draw exactly 100ma. The charge battery started charging as expected. I then went to connect another bifilar coil wired in the tesla bifilar style with a laminated iron core between the recovery diode and the charge battery but i made a wrong connection. I accidentally connected the coil directly across the power coil. The input dropped to exactly 50ma and the charging increased considerably. I will have to make a video. The only thing i have not done is load tested the battery yet but you would think that connecting another coil across the mail coil would increase the input.
Last edited by Zooty; 01-06-2011, 01:29 PM.
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Hi FRC, i am using a BD139 transistor but i'm pretty sure a 2N2222A or the like will work too. Well i let the setup run over night and checked this morning. The 7.2ah battery was running the show and it started at 12.54v. It took my 2.3ah charging battery from 12.1v to 12.99v and run batt dropped to 12.48v. Since then i have swapped them round. Run battery is at 12.69v and the charge battery is 12.81v which i think is pretty impressive considering the capacity difference of the two. I could never get this result with the standard bedini setup. I am still trying to figure it out. Just taking the core out of the oscillating coil and adding another bifilar connected as shown with an iron core makes a huge difference. I done another test to confirm the input readings. I disconnected the charge battery and extra coil and let the neon light. When i connect the extra bifilar, the input halves exactly but the neon stays the same in light strength. The voltage on the source battery also climbs slightly showing that there is definitely a smaller load on it. The other thing i noticed this morning is, while the setup was running and the charge battery was reading 14.5v, i disconnected the extra coil and the voltage dropped slightly, indicating a weaker charge while the input doubled. Keep in mind that when the extra coil is disconnected, the circuit is identical to an SSG circuit. In the past, i have recovered 75% of the energy from the input using the the standard SSG circuit. With this modification using only half the normal power and charging slightly faster, accurate load testing needs to be done as there could be something here.
**EDIT**
I think i know what might be going on here but i need someone to clarify my thinking. The air core oscillator passes current much faster than the tesla wired bifilar with iron core so practically no current gets through that coil and input is not affected but during the collapse, the iron core coil produces another spike that is fed mainly to the battery and partially to the charging battery, dropping the input and increasing the output.Last edited by Zooty; 01-06-2011, 01:29 PM.
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Drastic input drop!
I drastically dropped the input current without affecting the output. I took the bifilar iron core coil and wired both strands in parallel across the power coil and the input has gone down to 20ma. When i disconnect the coil, the input rises to 100ma and the neon stays the same in brightness! I have found that the lower the resistance of the coil across the power coil, the lower the current draw.
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Hi Zooty,
.... I had to delete the first part of my yesterday post due to mistakes, sorry.
Now may I suggest to use a few watt power resistor as the load instead of the neon (and also instead the charge battery but you did not use it lastly) and make sure to monitor the voltage across the load resistor to see real recovered output voltage. IF you do not have a scope, you may wish to use a bridge rectifier directly across the load and use a DC multimeter (no puffer capacitor is needed for this), just to see the order of change in output voltage if any. To judge the load resistor, maybe your charge current to the charge battery was say 100mA? then roughly RL=12.8V/0.1A=128 Ohm, use any value between 100 to 150 Ohm you happen to have in the 2-3W wattage range. This method could surely check how the output changes when you place coils parallel with the present power coil.
IT would be interesting to see if there is any magnetic coupling present in your setup between the power coil and the cored bifilar? It may also increase the resultant inductance in the collector, hence input current may also be lower.
Thanks for sharing.
Gyula
EDIT: Due to the obvious L/R time constant differences between the two coils, the collapsing fields may last longer in time than in case of any one coil in itself, the beneficial effect of paralleled coils has been a topic in case of the Teal motor, this is the most probable explanation for your findings. (The coils in parallel delay the actual reducement of the pulses created by the mutual shunting, after the switch-off the collapsing fields 'discharge' into each other so the normally single event process can become a multi event one.)
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Originally posted by gyula View PostHi Zooty,
.... I had to delete the first part of my yesterday post due to mistakes, sorry.
Now may I suggest to use a few watt power resistor as the load instead of the neon (and also instead the charge battery but you did not use it lastly) and make sure to monitor the voltage across the load resistor to see real recovered output voltage. IF you do not have a scope, you may wish to use a bridge rectifier directly across the load and use a DC multimeter (no puffer capacitor is needed for this), just to see the order of change in output voltage if any. To judge the load resistor, maybe your charge current to the charge battery was say 100mA? then roughly RL=12.8V/0.1A=128 Ohm, use any value between 100 to 150 Ohm you happen to have in the 2-3W wattage range. This method could surely check how the output changes when you place coils parallel with the present power coil.
IT would be interesting to see if there is any magnetic coupling present in your setup between the power coil and the cored bifilar? It may also increase the resultant inductance in the collector, hence input current may also be lower.
Thanks for sharing.
Gyula
EDIT: Due to the obvious L/R time constant differences between the two coils, the collapsing fields may last longer in time than in case of any one coil in itself, the beneficial effect of paralleled coils has been a topic in case of the Teal motor, this is the most probable explanation for your findings. (The coils in parallel delay the actual reducement of the pulses created by the mutual shunting, after the switch-off the collapsing fields 'discharge' into each other so the normally single event process can become a multi event one.)
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I didn't have much success trying this out on my 3PM. I placed the inductor in series with the charging battery. Definitely got the neons to flash and input current to drop, but it also caused the rotor to slow and charging was worse. The inductor seems to just create extra impedance. It basically acted like a potentiometer when you move the core in and out if the coil. I also managed to fry my trigger resistance pot doing this as well, not sure how that happened.
However, building on this idea, i put the same inductor in series with the primary battery. Basically the same effect, but no neon flashing. However, with the timing wheel and generator coil cap dump circuit, this really made a huge difference. Back popping this back to the primary through the inductor really made something special happen. I was able to charge both the primary and charging battery simultaneously. That inductor really amplified that back pop, and big. I suggest others try this out.
Jason S.
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