Open Source Project for Tesla/Jackson Wireless Transmission

[Farmhand]

Thanks 7, i'll check that out. Did you see above I got this waveform when I joined up the wave ?
http://v4j0ja.bay.livefilestore.com/...008.JPG?psid=1

I just got an LED to light at 10 meters with only a ground wire to the normal ground connection and outdoors amongst the trees. There is a lot of stuff to interfere with it and in the sunlight I couldn't get close enough to the light to film it well, as I got really close I think I became the dominant capacitance. I am convinced that to transfer using a ground connection with low power low frequency should also be used. I read somewhere that between 6 Hz and 20 Khz is best.

Tesla says that to get the most power from the transmitter and best transfer resonance is needed, but it will work without being in resonance. The principal of the transfer itself does not rely on resonance to actually work it is just much better.

I have a variable capacitor.
With this particular setup I think this is as close to resonance as I will get, when I join the wave the amplitude became a lot more and the wave form is Phase locked and i believe in resonance of some kind.

High frequency through the ground is not as good as low frequency apparently. I see this as true because when I first built it and was using it at only 2.5 Khz an actual ground connection worked but as I kept increasing the frequency the ground became less usefull. It will not be possible to build a small device to be in resonance at only 2o Khz or below so any actual ground/air transfers will have to be done out of resonance but at maximum possible power at lowest possible frequency, lower frequency will also alleviate some EM radiation that is wasting power.

Most of the exciter one wire transmission video's I see are only showing the HV live wire lighting by AV plug or by EM radiation, and done indoors amonst electrical equipment, which is not really very telling. I think I used induction to transfer the energy.

I issue a challenge to anybody to show one ground wire Energy transfer, outdoors over ten meters using less than 4 watts of input power to the transmitter.

I'll upload the video soon. The LED light is dull but it is on. Next is to try to use the ground and then to light a CFL at ten meters. It'll take a while to get two good earth stakes in where i want them.

Cheers

[7imix]

Yes, that waveform looks nice and coherent.

I noticed later that you had a variable cap in the circuit. You might want to consider putting an identical cap on the receiving side.

Good point about the amount of power being transmitted depending on how well tuned the devices are. In fact tesla intentionally detuned some circuits to change the amount of output, for example for a light dimmer. A dial would detune the receiver and thus dim the light.

You are right about lower frequencies. This is why tesla, while initially talking about "high frequency" in his lectures in 1890-92, later started using lower frequencies. When radio was being developed and others went for higher and higher frequencies, tesla started using lower frequencies.

I accept your challenge

[7imix]

One other thing, it would be possible to have a transmitter tuned to 2.5khz but have the receiver tuned to a much higher harmonic. Multiply 2.5 by 2, 4, 8, 16, 32 or whatever.

[Farmhand]

One other thing, it would be possible to have a transmitter tuned to 2.5khz but have the receiver tuned to a much higher harmonic. Multiply 2.5 by 2, 4, 8, 16, 32 or whatever.

Very good. I know you're up to the task. It is a fun thing to play with. And very easy to build. I will be gratefull of any advancements you can make to improve on things.

If my new deep ground stake's dont work well with this frequency I will try to go down untill I get ground conduction or whatever it would be called.

I think with high frequency the individual impulses are too frail and are decayed into EM radiation too easily. I probably should test it without the foil around the mast on the transmitter then the receiver as well.

I only get a very small amount of radiation from the receiver because the built potential is less, a neon will only light if touched around the perifery of the toroid cross section. But the transmitter lights em up all the way from the bottom of coil "B". If I touch a neon to the transmitter it burns bright orange and burns my fingers too .

Cheers

[Farmhand]

OK here is a video of a very sad LED lighting dimly from 10 meters. Bear in mind the low power bright sunlight and still ironing out details.

YouTube - ‪AlternateFarmhand1's Channel‬‏

It did work though to a degree but it was very difficult to see just how bright the LED was. Some very smooth toroids might help and also remove the foil on the stem.

So i need to mess about with some things and try again.

In the meantime while i'm thinking about it I am planning to build another small coil using a garden light lens and stand upside down as a coil former. Which should also be easy to duplicate if I want a second one.

It should look like this. Coil "C" is cut in cross section.
http://v4j0ja.bay.livefilestore.com/...001.JPG?psid=1

Here it is next to the one of the other one's as a size comparison.
http://v4j0ja.bay.livefilestore.com/...003.JPG?psid=1

Not sure if I should use 0.5mm wire for the cone shaped part and 0.2mm for the cylinder part or 0.5mm for both or 0.2mm for both.

The primary I will work out later but I want it to be a cone also but inverted, that should make it like it is only one or two windings but I'll make it 6 turns and tap 3 turns. Should I tap the top turns or the bottom turns ?[Edit] silly me I would need to tap the top turns of course.

It looks like a big cone funneling into the bottom of a smaller cone's base, it's pretty easy to visualise the potential being driven inwards and down then inwards some more and up like a focused jet of pressure.

It should work ok.

Cheers

[MonsieurM]

Farmhand, It is for sure a great pleasure seeing your project evolve the way it does. I see that Nature is your inspiration in your latest post, way to go

note: nature works also in ratio when it comes to building a structure, just thought it might help you in deciding the number of turns, thickness, space, etc...

if you look at a tree and measure the thickness of its trunk and the thickness of its branches/roots, you will find a recurring ratio...

just to remind you that we are under the influence of

Fundamental Frequencies of the Earth and the Sun

We will now attempt to find the correlative basis for a number of significant octave relationships based on the terrestrial Schumann Resonance and the solar hydrogen-alpha fundamental frequency....
.... The Schumann Resonance consists of a “chord” of subaudible infrasound extreme low frequencies of the Earth itself resonating with the uppermost atmosphere. Its fundamental tone or tonic note
oscillates slightly around the frequency of 7.8 Hertz (cycles per second). It also has overtones that oscillate around the frequencies of 14, 21, 26, 33, 39, and 45 cycles per second.

.....The octaves of 7.8 Hertz are 15.6, 31.2, 62.4, 124.8, 249.6, 499.2, 998.4, 1996.8, 3993.6, and so on up through auditory sound and then into the electromagnetic spectrum....
.... The frequency of 14 has octaves of 28, 56, 112, 224, 448, 896, 1792, 3584, 7168
.... The sixth or highest generally reported Schumann overtone is 45 Hertz which has the octaves of 90, 180, 360, 720, 1440, 2880, 5760, 11520, 23040, and so forth.

The sacred rule of Nature is No Waste, best way to go about it is by respecting ratios (ie: fractal)

you should probably look into Vortex based Mathematics:

YouTube - ‪Marko Rodin Vortex Mathematics Introduction‬‏

Cheers

[cody]

OK here is a video of a very sad LED lighting dimly from 10 meters. Bear in mind the low power bright sunlight and still ironing out details.

YouTube - ‪AlternateFarmhand1's Channel‬‏

Very Good! Now that you have some distance between the coils you can see how well they are really doing. When you have them close together you get capacitive and inductive couplings, not the true single wire transmission. You have noticed that adding capacitance is making it brighter, good! It is not necessarily that more capacitance is better, but in that particular arrangement it needs more capacitance or inductance to bring it in tune. I had mentioned that previously that the distance between the coils will affect the tuning.

Your wave off the secondary looked like you are on a harmonic, so you setup can still get better once you hit the fundamental frequency.

I just got an LED to light at 10 meters with only a ground wire to the normal ground connection and outdoors amongst the trees. There is a lot of stuff to interfere with it and in the sunlight I couldn't get close enough to the light to film it well, as I got really close I think I became the dominant capacitance. I am convinced that to transfer using a ground connection with low power low frequency should also be used. I read somewhere that between 6 Hz and 20 Khz is best.

Tesla says that to get the most power from the transmitter and best transfer resonance is needed, but it will work without being in resonance. The principal of the transfer itself does not rely on resonance to actually work it is just much better.

I wouldnt worry so much about the trees. Just think of the wire between them as the conductor and study the skin effect regarding to high frequency on conductors and you will understand why lower frequency is better.
Skin effect - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
As far as the resonance part, I do not doubt that something will come through if your not in tune, but it will be so small that you may not even be able to measure it. Resonance the is key, without it no long distances will be achieved.

I issue a challenge to anybody to show one ground wire Energy transfer, outdoors over ten meters using less than 4 watts of input power to the transmitter.

Challenge accepted Here is a large super bright LED on the receiver at about 80 meters or 240 feet. (i ran out of extension cord or i would have went further). The LED is nice and bright even on the sunny day in the shade. The transmitter is in the basement of the house in the background running off my function generator so you know its a very low power driver.



These little coils will go some distance if you get the tuning right and are aware of ground resistance. Put a voltmeter across your LED as you make tuning changes, after each adjustment step away from the receiver so your body capacitance is not interfering. For your receiver, instead of touching it with your hand, try raising or lowering it from the earth, height changes capacitance. Or you could add a larger toroid. You could also make a small variable inductor at the base of the secondary like i did for fine tuning. Here.



When you get the coils far apart think about the conductor you are using between the coils. The longer it is, the more resistance and losses from skin effect you will have to overcome. Take your same extension cord you are using to connect them and dont just use one of the wires but use all three in the cord in parallel and see if its any better on the receiver. You should find it works better because you have made a better conductor for high frequency.

Now if you want to remove that wire and use just the earth as a wire, think about what it would take to get it to work. Try sticking two grounding rods in the earth a few feet from eachother and use your meter to measure the resistance between them and think about what conditions would be needed to get that to work as a conductor.

EDIT: Also as you tune your receiver, dont forget to tune the coupling between the primary and secondary.

[Farmhand]

Hi Cody, Awesome stuff, I haven't seen anyone show transfer like that. . Very impressive.

Thanks for all the tips too. What kind of frequency does your coil operate best at ?

I think I should rewind or wind some different primaries with less turns to see the difference. I should be able to use less then ten with the circuit I have. I'll wind new one's incase these are better.

But first I'll try to tune it a bit while outside. I did realise when I got everything back inside that I should have tried to tune it a bit while outside.

I had to steal an LED from a garden light.

If I just stick the two probe's in the ground about 1 meter apart there is 15 Kohm resistance wow. And Between the two stakes in which are only just over a meter apart it is out of range, they have been there a while. It's funny how the electric fence works so well.

Cheers

I can reduce the oscillator timing cap some more yet to 0.001uf which should still allow me to get the same tuning I have now but also higher frequency range will be possible. I'll have a few changes to make after the next test.

[Farmhand]

Hey Cody, or anyone, I need some advice on a function generator,

What frequency range should i aim for and what feature's are preferable, I don't want to buy one and then find out later it is missing a function or feature I want or need that other function generators have.

I like this one, if I sell some goats I can get it.
Function Signal Wave Generator 0.1Hz - 5 MHz AUS | eBay

Similar one but 3 Mhz max with more feature's but it will me cost another goat.
Function Generator 0.1Hz - 3MHz with AM/FM & VCF input | eBay

There are some of these really cheap one's too but I'm always dubious about going too cheap. If they work OK others might be inclined to use them more. And I don't have to sell any goats to get this one.
AD9851 DDS Function Signal Generator Source Wave Module | eBay

So I take it these things can trigger a Mosfet or similar through a TTL Driver or Directly with the CMOS output ? Then when I am happy with the required signal I can just make a board with a PIC8 to use permanantly i suppose.

Thanks again.

[cody]

That little setup is resonant at 690 KHz. My secondary is not big but does have about 1000 turns on it. Its about 11 inches by 2 inches 30ga wire. I like making them like that to get a high inductance to keep the resonant frequency low. You could add a large capacitance toroid to lower your resonant frequency but i suspect going that route will diminish the effectiveness, so i prefer using inductance to lower the frequency. But Ill have to do some more tests to confirm if too much capacitance is a bad thing. It should lower the peak voltage on the transmitter, making it harder to over come the resistances of long distance transmission. It may not matter to much when using nice copper conductors between the coils though.

Im sure if you change your primary to 10 turns it will still work. But I think the biggest improvement you could make at this point is being able to hit the resonant frequency of your setup. Weather thats changing your circuit or making new secondaries with a much lower resonant frequency to work with your circuit, there are lots of options and Im sure with the persistence you have you will get there soon. Once you get there then its just a matter of figuring out all the tuning on the receiver which I pretty well outlined in the above post and im sure you will catch on quick once you start playing with it.

Its nice having someone to play with, not too many folks messing with this stuff. Thanks

[cody]

Hey Cody, or anyone, I need some advice on a function generator,

What frequency range should i aim for and what feature's are preferable, I don't want to buy one and then find out later it is missing a function or feature I want or need that other function generators have.

I like this one, if I sell some goats I can get it.
Function Signal Wave Generator 0.1Hz - 5 MHz AUS | eBay

Similar one but 3 Mhz max with more feature's but it will me cost another goat.
Function Generator 0.1Hz - 3MHz with AM/FM & VCF input | eBay

There are some of these really cheap one's too but I'm always dubious about going too cheap. If they work OK others might be inclined to use them more. And I don't have to sell any goats to get this one.
AD9851 DDS Function Signal Generator Source Wave Module | eBay

So I take it these things can trigger a Mosfet or similar through a TTL Driver or Directly with the CMOS output ? Then when I am happy with the required signal I can just make a board with a PIC8 to use permanantly i suppose.

Thanks again.

Personally, its been my most valuable tool for this work. Also makes it very easy to learn about tuning. And yes you can use it to drive other high power setups if you want.

I sprung for a nice HP a year or two ago and love it. I had a much cheaper older Wavetek before that but it kept giving me problems. If i were to buy a cheap one over again i think i would have preferred a new off brand model than the old wavetek.

Some features i would suggest would be to get one with sine, square and maybe pulse too if available. Those are the main ones you would probably use. Also having a digital frequency display on the machine is very nice so you can easily see what frequency you are at. Something that can put out up to 10 volts is fine. A range of 2 MHz is fine for this but you may want a higher range for other projects that come down the road. One that is a DDS model is preferred but not necessary. Really anything else would just be a luxury that you probably wont use for this. As with anything you usually get what you pay for. Look up reviews for the models you are looking at to see if there are any issues.

[Farmhand]

OK I think I'll go with the first one I linked that I liked the look of, this Guy DaveW has one with a different badge but the same unit, and he says it is OK, he has it opened and checked it out, sounds like he knows what he's talking about. Photo's of it open and his appraisal are in the link below reply # 6 .

MFG-3005 Function Generator???

Thanks to DaveW

I just did a quick test outide again and you were right as soon as I retuned it the LED was much brighter, I removed the foil and there was not much difference the tube's inside are still radiating Energy but they are fairly smooth so I'll keep them in there untill I get the FG.

I have an enormous mess in my workspace I should try to clear up I'm having trouble finding things. Could take days to organise. I like to spread stuff around so I can see it and find it but with electronics there are so many different small parts.

And my eye's aren't the best the other day I inserted a 12v regulator in a board by mistake instead of a Mosfet and wondered why I couldn't pulse a coil with it haha. Had me stumped for a bit. It is still ok too.

[7imix]

I would say the main thing I would look for is the rise and fall time of the rectangle wave generator. That one is less than 100ns which is good. Also I would want to know what the minimum duty cycle it is capable of producing is. In the specs, the only thing that seems related to this is "symmetry range" spec. If that means it can only do a 10% duty cycle at the minimum, then that's not very good.

Farmhand, I am going to do one of my uc3525 builds and send it to you. It has been very resilient in my testing. I even ran it off 24 volts and it did a great job. I can reliably get the duty cycle down to 2%, and I can get it even lower but sometimes it drops pulses. At 12 volts with one of my new toroids and a microwave diode I can fill a capacitor to 300 volts with about 50 milliamps.

From there the cap, with an appropriate sidac, could then break over and through the primary. Changing the input frequency or duty cycle being driven through the toroid changes the rate at which the cap charges and thus the rate the sidac discharges into the primary.

If you can afford it the signal generator has a much wider range of abilities And is much more flexible so it is definitely a great thing to buy as well.

[Farmhand]

Hey Cody I reckon you're setup would fully light a CFL with another Tesla type coil working from the output of you're receiver it may even work if the coil is connected directly to the receiver output coil, or maybe through a pair of small series caps.

That's why I want the other small coil. But maybe a horazontal one with the primary near the center would be best. Like how I used the other one in the post above but smaller and horazontal, I did notice that that coil lit the CFL partially from the top wire alone almost the same as when I connected the bottom one. That may have only been because of how I connected it. A very much smaller phisical size coil should work even better.

Because the most desireable effect in my opinion would be to have a CFL or a tube mounted on top of the small auxilliary coil lit by ony one wire.

I wonder if an actual CFL mini transformer would work !

Oh and you're variable inductor on the secondary is that on both ?

Ta

[Farmhand]

I would say the main thing I would look for is the rise and fall time of the rectangle wave generator. That one is less than 100ns which is good. Also I would want to know what the minimum duty cycle it is capable of producing is. In the specs, the only thing that seems related to this is "symmetry range" spec. If that means it can only do a 10% duty cycle at the minimum, then that's not very good.

Farmhand, I am going to do one of my uc3525 builds and send it to you. It has been very resilient in my testing. I even ran it off 24 volts and it did a great job. I can reliably get the duty cycle down to 2%, and I can get it even lower but sometimes it drops pulses. At 12 volts with one of my new toroids and a microwave diode I can fill a capacitor to 300 volts with about 50 milliamps.

From there the cap, with an appropriate sidac, could then break over and through the primary. Changing the input frequency or duty cycle being driven through the toroid changes the rate at which the cap charges and thus the rate the sidac discharges into the primary.

If you can afford it the signal generator has a much wider range of abilities And is much more flexible so it is definitely a great thing to buy as well.

OK thanks I meant to ask you for a circuit, because I knew you had one like i need for that chip and I have them now.

Sounds good but that digikey place wants $30.00 to ship to Australia. The robbers. I'll look around some more.