Muller generator replication by Romerouk

[blackchisel97]

besides magnet mans meg , the magnets are placed wrong i dont see how that would work. may be wrong, just how i feel.

cheers ztec2002

In the last several hours you posted three times that you don't see how something may work. I'll would suggest that you build something first and then elaborate or visit friendly optometrist and change prescription. You haven't posted anything what may contribute to this or other replication yet.
You may start your own thread and explain your theory but don't try to distract others with your hoax claims and doubts. This isn't OU Forum!

V

[blackchisel97]

Hi folks, I ran another test with the 5 bolt coils on one side as before and now it runs much better now that reed is switching better, though the coil/core is still getting hot, just takes longer for it to do so.
I think the amperage capacity of the wire is being exceeded and the on time being too long may account for that.
Like i said, because I've had steel bolts run cold before.
Reason I'm testing this is because I don't want to wind all these ferrite bead cores to then find out that the wire can't handle much average current and will heat up the ferrite cores just the same.
Maybe putting multiple 24 gauge strands together like the litz method will prevent this heat buildup.
What do you folks think, is it mainly the core or could it just be the amp capacity of the wire is being exceeded?
at 12 volts it was 300 milliamps and at 24 volts it was 550 milliamps.
peace love light
tyson

Sky, AWG24 is rated at 304mA. I think that on time may cause heat build up. Litz seems to be better option too.
I found 12 of same cores in my bin but still thinking about making small spools.
I have halls and magnetite powder coming soon. Hope to join.


V

[SkyWatcher]

Hi blackchisel ,thanks for the reply. Yes you're correct, my wire chart says .5 amps and .8 max for 24 gauge.
Actually at 12 volts it didn't seem to heat up much at all, only at 24 volts did it heat up.
Thing about the enameled litz wire is that it still will not handle more current per strand and will get hot just the same, now if they were not enameled then it would not heat up.
So I'll just have to keep the on time in check, meaning reed switch isn't so great for this, have to hook up my hall switch.
I decided to use python polyurethane glue to glue plastic end pieces to the core, this will keep it rigid and the plastic piece will give me a nice surface to glue to the frame structure.
I will test this single ferrite bead core/coil when it dries, to see how it works, before I start making all the rest.
peace love light
tyson

[Stephen Brown]

Posted to Pesiwiki via Bedini monopole 2

Re: [bedini_monopole2] Re: FYI: claim of OU self-runner (Muller dynamo)

Wow, the following email was sent to sterlinga ( not sure but I think Mr Sterling is the owner of peswiki.com ) from user RomeroUK. :

From: RomeroUK
To: sterlingda...
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 8:37 AM
Subject: RomeroUK

Dear Mr Sterling,

I am sending this email after I saw your opinion on the forum.

First of all I do not have that device anymore, probably is destroyed, I have no idea and I don’t care anymore.

I have spent years in trying to do different things, replicating all sort of devices and spent lots of money for that.

This last week was a nightmare for me, you have no idea under what pressure I have been and how many people contacted me, warnings that I should keep quiet, people saying they run multimillion companies and want be to build for Africa,… and in the end, yesterday, I had a personal visit after leaving my day to day job.

I had the impression that I live in a free country but it was demonstrated that anything is possible, we will never move forward.

I am an IT guy and I thought that I have a good brain but now after that I even forgot simple passwords and things I use every day, this is how scared I am.

I have a family, kids and they are most important for me. I had a lot of problems home with my wife because this too, she never wanted me to publish any of my work, but I did, and it looks that I should have listen to her. Well, now I learned my lesson.

I have never asked anyone for money or invited them to do a copy of the device I built, I have only showed my results, no intention to harm anyone in any way.

All I want now is to enjoy the life I had before and forget about doing any more research, I don’t have the power to do that anymore.

I am not good for this kind of pressure, I already have hearth problems, it is not worth it.

I just hope that one day someone better than me will have the strength to go thru all this.

I have always stated that I have no intention to sell or do any public demonstrations, please check my posts on overunity forum.



This is the end I hope, I don’t want be contacted by any other people, I have no more info to share. All I had I posted free and it is better to be considered as not working.



Best Regards,

RomeroUK

[krzysiek]

Very interesting stuff here guys, especially that email there (depends if we can verify..)

Either way, I think keep on moving forward. Wish I had the knowledge to use my spare time (of which I could find plenty) to make devices like this. I sure have a few bucks lying around where I could order some parts, etc.

I think this is worthy of following, so keep on going and let's see what we can come up with

Just a quick Q (don't want to hi-jack) but would a bachelor of electronic engineering or electrical engineering be something I should consider to be as familiar as most of you guys here are with this stuff?

[toranarod]

more equipment

Hello to all
Been reading all your comments. Some very interesting points raised. I am keeping notes on all things so when I come across this I have a reference its been noticed before.
I am trying to get supplies together to create an exact replication.
I started this project with what ever I could scrounge up from other left over
Projects but as I have moved along its taking on a very serous important
Nature of its own. Every day I go to a bit more effort to get things just right.

The more we study the layout he presented the more we see specific techniques and if you take into account his back ground and previous builds and the expense he went to get to the one he said was OU you start to see some very interesting designs that cannot be ignored.

He changed the disc size twice. This would suggest there is a very important reason for the time intervals between the magnets and the over lap of the surface face of the coils.
This also suggests the gap between the magnets and the coils is related to the duration of the pulse. With my own research on other pulse motors the gap becomes criteria for tuning to improve efficacy.

Then there is the Litz wire that has a major difference to single strand wire. When I was an audio visual technician almost ever TV and Plasma screen had some Litz wire in it some ware. I can also say magnets on coils is nothing new manufactures have been doing it for years tuning coils by place an ferrite magnet on them.

Now down to business I can have ten disc made for 52 dollars each or just one for my or two for my own use 105 each. So if I can get ten made will any body out there buy one?
Or will I just get two for my self?

They are being made to fit a 25 mm bearing in the center or you can find an old WD hard drive. It will fit straight on.

See photo

[redrichie]

Hey rod what is this rotor to be made out of? Im interested. Whats the turnaround time? You can PM all details if you like or post it public. Do you trust this builder? Remember what RomerUK said about his laser cut rotors that were off. Thanks for the diligence

[redrichie]

For those that didnt know...(I just found out myself from user GordyP) Ferrite rod can becut to a desired length. Just just a good sharp hack saw blade. The stuff is machined after it has been fired during manufacture. So that being the case can ferrite rod from solenoids be used?

[Itsu]

biasing effect

Hi All,

i can confirm the "biasing" effect a (neo)magnet has on a ferrite core type coil.
I found out while tinkering with my bedini motor some months ago, see this video from the 8 minutes mark on: YouTube - Bedini 4.avi

Perhaps its usefull for tuning.

Regards Itsu.

[toranarod]

Hey rod what is this rotor to be made out of? Im interested. Whats the turnaround time? You can PM all details if you like or post it public. Do you trust this builder? Remember what RomerUK said about his laser cut rotors that were off. Thanks for the diligence

looks like they will take 5 days from time I place the order. I questioned the company about there work. they have a good reputation for quality.
Anyway I will build the first one and if it did not live up to expectations I would not pass them on.

[redrichie]

When will you post order? I should have all in line to join in. Cant think of too much (besides kid) that is more important. Also if we succeed I am not one to be frightened off. I have a background that knows how to deal with wannabe thug A holes. The Marine Corps ensured that. Not to mention the hardware to defend what is mine.

[Turion]

RomeroUK's disk size was 200 Millimeters
200 Millimeters is 7.87 inches. You can get an 8 inch disk from Tap plastics for $3.50. Plastic Circles: TAP Plastics
(They are only .118 inches thick, or .236 inches thick, so you might want to stack a couple to get the right thickness.) It is not the size of the disk that is critical, but the distance of the magnets from center and from each other, so those relationships can be made to exactly match RomerUK's build. You would need to get a local machine shop to drill your holes for magnets and for the center bearing, unless you have a drill press, in which case you can do it yourself, (I have no problem doing my own) and that would save you some money. Just takes a little time. With a disk this small, even a small bench top drill press will drill the center hole. If you want to reduce the size to EXACTLY match RomeroUK's disk, drill a 1/2 inch center hole first, slip it on the shaft of a bench grinder, get out your file, and grind it down to exactly 7.87 inches or 200 Millimeters while it is rotating at high rpms. I do this all the time to make my rotors. I have my bench grinder mounted so that one end of it sticks way out past the end of my workbench, just for this purpose. I can rough cut a rotor on the band saw and grind it down to match specs in just a few minutes.

[tjnlsn255]

I go to the local kitchen supply place and get 1/2" plastic cutting boards and turn them on my router table, works great....

Very interesting about the old WD hard drive spindals...... will have to try that....

Hopes and dreams....

Todd

[Turion]

I also use the cutting board material because it is simple to cut on the ban saw or with a jig saw, I can drill a half inch center hole and spin it at high speed on my bench grinder and make it perfectly round, but neos don't glue well to it with any glue I have found, but I have never had a magnet come out because the stress is in a different direction. Still, it would be nice to find a glue that would work. Anyone have any ideas?

I have looked at all of the different photos of the device RomerUK built. From what I can see, there are ceramic magnets on some of the coils, and some of them have none. Some have one, and some have more than one. It looks to me like he was working to adjust the magnetic fields of the coils so that he would have as freely spinning a disk as possible. I built a device a while back to use as a generator. It had four rotors. Each rotor had four magnets, but was offset from the previous rotor on the shaft by 15 degrees of rotation. Each had only four coils around it and they were all in alignment with each other, but it still had next to no magnetic cogging because of the four rotors. I would advise anyone who is attempting a replication that this "magnetic balancing" of the rotor is critical to success and experimenting with this should be a first step in the building process, and something we might wish to share with each other. I notice that nowhere in the discussions is there an explanation of this by RomerUK, nor do I find anywhere that he gave information about which coils to put magnets on, and how many on which ones. Anyone who knows wish to share?

[tjnlsn255]

I found that Gorilla "Super Glue" works for me. Not regular Gorilla Glue but the "Super Glue"....

I was also thinking of possibly using an epoxy mix and cover the surfaces of the magnets on the rotor but i have not tried that yet.... not sure how it will affect the balance of the wheel.....

Hopes and Dreams....

Todd