Muller generator replication by Romerouk

[Cherryman]

I just finished the two driver boards. I powered the unit up to do a quick test. I have only tested voltage on one set of coils. With 12 volts in I get just over 16 volts out.

Good voltage!

With all those different outcomes it could be nice to put your current coil specifics, rpm, magnets specs with your voltage reading.



Happy Building.

[conradelektro]

@All

MrBrOOk5 on Youtube suggested the Schottky 95SQ015 diode from Mouser to help out with the power on the generator coils. Those diodes have only a 30 milli volt drop. Build your own bridge with those.

Lidmotor

I just looked up the diode 95SQ015, the voltage drop is 0.37 Volt or 370 Milli Volt.

95SQ015TR Vishay Semiconductors Schottky (Diodes & Rectifiers)

Unfortunately there are nor diodes with a Voltage drop of 0.03 Volt (I would like to have some, therefore I looked it up). But 0.37 Volt is pretty good for 9 A. The diode only allows 15 Volt, which might be too low.

Greetings, Conrad

[Joit]

Rotor and Stators

Quote from B Mullers page
Read that carefully. lol.

"WORK REQUIRED TO MOVE A MAGNETIC POLE"

"When a magnetic pole is moved. WORK MUST BE DONE against any force acting on it if it is moved in the direction opposite the force, and conversely, WORK WILL BE DONE (or extracted) by the magnetic pole when it moves in the force direction. Thus, NO WORK IS DONE in moving a magnetic pole around a closed path in a magnetic field.

It follows that the WORK DONE in moving the pole ... from a point A to a point B is independent of the route followed. Otherwise (the pole) could be returned to A by another route on which MORE WORK IS EXTRACTED THAN WAS EXPENDED in the initial movement to A"

The net effect would be that WORK COULD BE EXTRACTED by movement around the complete path without any other change in the system, giving the possibility of a perpetual motion machine that is contrary to the laws of mechanics."

[clueless]

I got curious

and went to the Muller site and did a little reading there.
I am not skilled with electronics but I thought other systems might transfer. Occam's razor I think. Anyway in most systems a small improvement in a key area has more influence on overall performance than a larger improvement made at less critical area.
Whether intuitive ordelusional two sections jumped off the page at me. Those sections were on eddy currents and hysteresis both of which seems to be major components of performance. Both of which could be eliminated (my understanding) by building using a amorphous polycrystalline ferrite material.
It occured to me that fiberglass is available in different materials and a mold would be fairly easy made. Just cut your shape from wood use wood for backing a release agent and just mix in ferrite powder with the fiberglass and well you have something. Not sure what but as I am not able at the moment to try this out maybe somebody else could try this on a small scale. I have several other things going right now but will try this later.
It seems to me this might work for a coil core or as the rotor.
Hope this isn't too far off base.
-RG

[Lidmotor]

Romero surfaced

@All
Romero made a posting over at OU so he is still around. He suggested that we focus on making a good Dynamo and not get bogged down with other issues. He said that most of us working on this are missing the point with the build. He also mentioned 1240 RPM. The post is at page 94 of the thread.
Woopy and Lasersaber have both reported that they are getting enough voltage at their generator coils so it seems that at least that goal has been reached using the sewing machine bobbin size coils.

@ redrichie---When I said that "she ain't gonna run herself" I was refering to my current build. If the bugs get worked out then I will probably try for a full scale replication like other people are doing. I just don't want to spend alot of time and money on something that I don't understand.


Lidmotor

[redrichie]

I understand lid. Keep up the good work

[Mark]

I just finished the two driver boards. I powered the unit up to do a quick test. I have only tested voltage on one set of coils. With 12 volts in I get just over 16 volts out.

How are you measuring the 16 volts? With a scope, meter, charging a cap.

Can you please elaborate more on your coil, rotor and speed.

Thanks, Mark

[minoly]

With what little time I have during a day, I probably have spent too much of it reading this thread and the one at OU. It's a great read though. I look forward to one day being able to get to it, have to get other projects off the table first.

I do have one little 2cent piece to add. I think R said the driving ckt was not that important as long as it was real efficient. I can't think of a more efficient driver than the Bedini/Cole bipolar switch.

no need to cap dump or anything like that just run it in attraction w/ that hall switch, you might have to play around with an optimal core or depending on the wire - no core. does anyone remember how JB configured the Zero-force motor a while back? As I recall it ran +4k rpm at the cost of a hall to run it.

I'm pretty sure I could spin that wheel of R's w/ less than what he was, using the Bedini Cole Bipolar ckt. There are many ways to spin a wheel...

Anyway, back to my own little world I go...


Patrick

[toranarod]

How are you measuring the 16 volts? With a scope, meter, charging a cap.

Can you please elaborate more on your coil, rotor and speed.

Thanks, Mark

Yes I have the same question?
how and where are you getting 16 volts from what?
please elaborate
good work

[toranarod]

Dear Rod,

Please continue your work on the Adams Motor. I believe the only thing you need is to add core and magnet to the drive coil. There is no need to have 8/9 or other arrangements. The 8/8 technique is easier to make and tune. You may not need to use all 8 drive coils if your load is not that high.

I played with the Tong Wheel using only one collector coil with soft iron core and a magnet to remove locking. The resulting voltage and current was much higher than with the air coil alone. I know that you are on the right path.

I still believe the “multiple LCR circuits with no moving parts tuned to resonance” is the better solution.

Keep up the good work and may God Bless you.

Lawrence

nothing has changed
I need to test all ideas for any chance of an improvement

thanks for the support

Rod

[LaserSaber]

How are you measuring the 16 volts? With a scope, meter, charging a cap.

Can you please elaborate more on your coil, rotor and speed.

Here is a picture showing how I tested it. I do not know the rpm of the rotor. I posted build pictures over on overunity.com. It sure lights up a 12volt light bulb nicely!

[woopy]

Hi Mark

here some measurements i have made today on my set up of romero replication attempt.

so it seems to be possible to get around 2 watt per pair of generative coils. at 1280 RPM

My coils are sewing machine coils wounded with 0.3 mm plain copper wire.

I am waiting for litze wire to see if i can improve this result.

Good luck at all

laurent

[redrichie]

Anyone familiar with the timing from the Bedini Ferris Wheel care to take a stab at why the 2 driver circuits use 2 different hall positions. One on top of the large rotor magnet and the other with a periphery magnet that will be short. Looks as if the smaller event happens right as the bigger long pulse is wrapping up. cancel the Lenz occurring in the big magnet? LEt me know what you think.

[Lidmotor]

My Muller running on a cap & scope shots of ONE generator coil

@All
Here is a scope shot of one generator coil while my motor is running on a supercap filled to about 3 volts. I am seeing 2volts peak to peak on one coil. Two of these in series should exceed the input voltage which is what I am looking for. I think that I am losing my juice through the bridge rectifier. This might be why Romero added a second set of diodes on top of the bridge.

YouTube - Muller Dynamo running on a capacitor & generator coil scope shots.ASF


Lidmotor

[downunder]

Here is a picture showing how I tested it. I do not know the rpm of the rotor. I posted build pictures over on overunity.com. It sure lights up a 12volt light bulb nicely!

Your picture shows the digital voltmeter and capacitor directly across the coil AC output. Am I correct in guessing that you used a bridge rectifier (not shown in your picture) between the coil and the capacitor?