Muller generator replication by Romerouk

[citfta]

Hi blackchisel,


I would give the half bipolar circuit a try. I switched my SSG from the original circuit to the half bipolar circuit and the charging went up. It is very easy to tune if you put a 1K pot in place of the 220 ohm resistor that is used in most of the circuit drawings you see. Also use a hall effect transistor to turn it on and off. Use the hall to adjust the timing and duration of the pulses to the motor coils and use the pot to adjust the current to the motor coils.

Good luck, Carroll

[blackchisel97]

Hi blackchisel,


I would give the half bipolar circuit a try. I switched my SSG from the original circuit to the half bipolar circuit and the charging went up. It is very easy to tune if you put a 1K pot in place of the 220 ohm resistor that is used in most of the circuit drawings you see. Also use a hall effect transistor to turn it on and off. Use the hall to adjust the timing and duration of the pulses to the motor coils and use the pot to adjust the current to the motor coils.

Good luck, Carroll

Thanks Carroll I'll try to get this done today. I have only MJL21193 which is a bit overkill for this project but together with 21194 they're my favorite tranny's to work with.

We could also put the bridge across drive coil, fill cap and pulse over the source when motor is off....
I measure 22.7V after the bridge across the drive coil.

Vtech

[Slider2732]

Here's something to report, something very positive

Remember the recent diagram posted, where the coil arrangement was shown that Romero used ?
I tried it out tonight.


Out in the backyard, I have several junk monitors, from which any and nearly all recent components have come from. So today I went to the neck of one monitor and removed the Litz type multi-strand wire. I normally have junked that type, because the factory glue used was thought to rip the strand enamel off...but if carefully unwound, it doesn't.
This neck used 7 stranded wire.
Strands 1, 2 and 3 were soldered to strands 4, 5, 6 and 7. The two ends lots were then used as the power wires for the coil. The coil itself is wound on the actual plastic bobbin that sits on the neck arrangement too, in a little plastic housing. The threaded ferrite core included within the bobbin was kept and remains inserted (you'll see when you take one apart).
Wound with 4 layers of the wire, to the thickness shown in the video below, the coil then had some tape wrapped around to secure.

A small neodymium was placed on the back of the coil, facing North toward the rotor.
It was then fitted to one of my Adams type pulse motors. The rotor is far too small, but what the hey, this was just to see what may or may not happen.

The motor was powered up at 12V and saw the usual speed to be expected from such a size of coil..,fine, normal. Many coils have been tested on this motor, as it's shabby look now testifies to.
Then decided to basically short the coil with a regular CFL house bulb - the rotor sped up to a never before seen speed and kept climbing in RPM !!!
150V AC was measured and then the measurement dropped, presumably from actually measuring the output and killing the dipole ?
The rest of the video shows other 'on the fly' experiments. Some really very bizarre effects were witnessed, including a neon bulb lighting without rotor movement.

Basic Adams type pulse motor:
4x Neodymium magnets, all facing North outward
DN6851 Hall sensor
2SD667 transistor
Small red LED across the Emitter and Base
1N4148 BEMF transistor protection
No caps on the circuit
No shunting doodahs
Hall sensor positioning is critical
Running from a multi-voltage wall adapter, giving approx 3V to 12V range (smoothed by a FWBR and small cap to give more realistic voltage readings at settings and to smooth the supply).

I definitely recommend ripping apart an old monitor and trying this out
Also, apologies for both the mess and hysterical nature within especially the first part of the video

YouTube - ‪RomeroUK Special Coil Test‬‏

[Steve220]

Interesting results

Great results and interesting information for sure.
Do be careful not to throw a magnet though.

I wonder if this 7 strand wire in the deflection coil connected up the way it is, adds extra capacitance that might create an L C circuit within the coil that jumpers out the attraction of the rotor magnets?
In any case, this video shows something unexpected.

[penno64]

Hey Slide,

Sensational Video.

Can you please do a schematic?

Regards, Penno

[Joit]

@Slider
Are 1,2,3 soldered back to other End from the Coil or
soldered at the same End to 4,5,6,7? This one would be a multifilar Coil.
You may wanna add some Caps for resonant with the Coil and play more with it ...

[redrichie]

Fantastic Slider. Please post schem of wire arrangement.

[robbie47]

Shortcut with a CFL bulb?

Can you post a circuit diagram of your setup, please?

[electr0n]

@slayer what is the current draw from the wall adaptor doing during the various tests?
cheers
Jim

[Steve220]

Wow

The part where the Neon lamp lights up without the rotor rotating is odd.
This is more than interesting, its really different.
I hope to see the schematic.

[Slider2732]

Wow, I hope to answer all the questions as best I can. Without being an EE please do forgive what would be simple errors to trained folks.

The coil is similar to that depicted a page or so back. A pic is attached of the neck wiring.


The same sort of wire is used within a small plastic enclosure found at the side of the tube neck, that has a coil wound on it already. That has a ferrite slug inside that can be turn adjusted very easily. I left that in, but removed the wire to rewind with the neck wire, which is of a length longer than the original coil wire.
7 strands on this, which were separated after winding into 2 bundles. Each wire was continuity tested and checked even against the same wires of its bundle, to make sure nothing was shorting. I was surprised, the glue that holds the neck wire is quite strong, yet all were ok.
Strands 1, 2 and 3 were then scraped with a utility knife some more and soldered together. Same with 4, 5, 6 and 7. One lot of 1, 2, 3 was soldered to one lot of 4, 5, 6, and 7. The other 2 remaining lots were then used as the coil powering connections.

The circuit is the type arrived at through not being able to make a standard Bedini SSG work some weeks ago. My history is short with such circuits and mainly any switching transistor circuit has been based on previous Slayer exciter Tesla coil experiments.
So, the circuit follows an earlier pulse motor that ran for 10 mins on a 1F supercap. That first one was hotglued to the workbench unfortunately, it self powered a 6V lead acid up to charge, after a 5 minute initial 12V and then down to 6V procedure (like blasting wisps from Ni-CD's). The battery ran itself and circuit all night and then needed several hours with a 12V PC case fan to flatten it. That circuit hasn't done the same thing again, but has a record of 14m 54sec on the supercap with a white LED load...but also gave reason to not change the simple circuit.

A text description is hopefully ok for the circuit, through lack of drawing skills and it's really very simple. My camera is also quite unsuitable for close up pictures, though I intend to fix a webcam today (such that 2 hands are also available when videoing anything on the table).
A 2SD667 is the NPN transistor, with small red LED over the Emitter and Base. The Collector runs out to the coil. The positive rail runs through a 1N4148, then to another 1N4148 before connecting to the other side of the coil. The Hall sensor has a 300ohm resistor to its positive pin.
That's it for the drive circuit, a simple switch, where the transistor switches based on the Hall position.
Between the 2 1N4148's is where a wire goes to an AV plug for usual BEMF tests. Skin type effects have been noted on many HV circuits, on Tesla towers you can have a wireless field right up to a wall plug some meters away, so it goes over diodes in a FWBR no problem.

The 'normal' speed of the rotor can be seen within other videos of this same circuit. Normally it will sit at around a similar speed to the neon being lit section of this one. In this last video, that speed of rotation is completely different, also in sound, than all other runnings of any coil.

Current used is something else to ascertain. I don't know yet. I'll put a 1 ohm resistor on and find out.
It should be noted that after some minutes running at turbo speed, the transistor does get hot. But the little thing is perhaps doing what it should in an aetheric energy way and being the only reason it doesn't explode sooner, just is highly maxed out. I'll try different transistors. Main thing, it hasn't blown and the D667 is noted personally for never having bust on any circuit...tough things. If there's nothing aetheric going on then my opinion about the D667 is even higher !

LOL Robbie, I know
The expected nothingness wasn't a nothingness, so the camera was fired up.

The neon being lit when stationary is odd yep. I expect it's induction, but that neon is fully on, very bright. i don't get such brightness out of wireless exciter circuits and in fact without rotation, the transistor won't be switching ? So, that would be 12V DC with 1N4148 diode drop, for a 90V AC neon

Caps and another same type coil will be tried today. I'll use 2 together and try them on different motors too.

The monitor was a Gateway EV500A, 15"
Enough of this wire for many many same coils can come from just 1 tube neck...and free from say Freecycle if folks don't have a spare rusted monitor

[ewizard]

Slider, thanks for the details although even a hand drawn diagram will be helpful to people like me One question that I think is important and I'm not clear on yet is this: Do you solder the 1,2,3 together to the opposite end where 4,5,6 and 7 are or to the same end where 4,5,6 and 7 are located? I assume the opposite end will be best but please let us know on this. Thanks for this find and your video!

[Slider2732]

I'll draw one up in a package I use online...never have got used to Eagle, but then again I haven't given it time.

Edited to be correct after looking at the coil -
The start bundle 1, 2, and 3 connect to the finish end 4, 5, 6 and 7.
The start bundle of 4, 5, 6 and 7 form one coil input connection,
The end bundle 1, 2, and 3 form the other coil input connection.

Here's the drawing I based it on:

[ewizard]

Great Slider - thank you for confirming this and that's what I was hoping it was as this makes a lot of sense now. Good luck with your explorations with this.

[Slider2732]

Here we are with the circuit.
I use the same one for any pulse motor and it's just an own design when I couldn't get a Bedini SSG circuit to run (all components are salvaged and that's probably why).
It's the one that 'downunder' kindly redrew for me some while back, when the first pulse motor did the supercap and 6V battery thing. The Ground from the cap is actually a return to the negative of the battery btw.