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Some notes about obtaining the wire from monitor necks.
I know several people might like to try these coils and especially as they are the ones Romero used, but have never even seen the inside of a PC monitor.
HV exists for sometimes many weeks inside a tube based monitor, but no, it needn't fill anyone with fear, if sensible precautions are taken.
The HV and large DC voltages are within the monitor tube and the large capacitors. The simplest method of ensuring safety, is to only touch a monitor that was last used in say 2007 !
With that not being practical, here's what we can do.
Do reference decent discharging articles if unsure, such as this one: FREE PC HARDWARE TEACHING: repair and troubleshooting of a computer and video monitor
Once the case screws have been removed and any swivel base also removed, the rear of the monitor will lift away.
You'll see something similar to this pic, taken from the above link:
Using a plastic handled screwdriver, you can move around any large capacitor and short between the terminals. That's the rough and ready approach, a big ceramic white 10W resistor is another way. Also short the pins on the board that sits at the back of the tube. The tube itself need not be discharged when familiar with the procedure but it's advisable. One method is to tightly wind a mains thickness wire around the metal of the screwdriver and attach the other end to the metal chassis. Now, wearing a rubber glove or gardening glove, push the screwdriver under the rubber suction cup on the main part of the tube, its the round rubber thing with the thick red wire leading to the flyback large box on the circuit board. You'll hear a small snap, nearly identical to a piezo lighter and then will probably wonder what the fuss is about. If that is the situation, then you've done it correctly ! Repeat that push under the cap a couple more times and the tube is then discharged - the monitor is safe. To further ensure safety, snip the large red wire.
Now, how do we get the wire off to wind coils with ?
Here's something similar to what you'll be looking at:
The main board at the bottom there will pull off from the pins of the tube neck.
Next, you'll see the (reusable) screw clamps. Unscrew those and remove the clamps.
The focus rings are the black thin circles of what looks like ferrite, these will pull away and off quite readily.
At this point, you might have a situation where the whole rest of the assembly simply lifts off with some gentle left/right twisting
job done
Otherwise, any large gobs of glue are what will be holding the assembly in place. You can run a knife or the screwdriver into this glue and, while gently twisting, the assembly will suddenly break free and be able to be lifted off.
Tube necks can break, but it takes some force and a heavy handed approach.
Finally, the large ferrite pieces that may obscure the multi-strand wire will snap off in 2 halves. Clips often join them and they can be removed with a flat ended screwdriver. Once popped off, tap the ferrite with the screwdriver handle with a sharp rap and the pieces will then come away from the multi-strand wire sitting underneath.
I hope that may be of use to some folks and don't forget all the extra goodies from the monitor. Transistors, heatsinks, degauss coil, capacitors, resistors and more.
I know several people might like to try these coils and especially as they are the ones Romero used, but have never even seen the inside of a PC monitor.
HV exists for sometimes many weeks inside a tube based monitor, but no, it needn't fill anyone with fear, if sensible precautions are taken.
The HV and large DC voltages are within the monitor tube and the large capacitors. The simplest method of ensuring safety, is to only touch a monitor that was last used in say 2007 !
With that not being practical, here's what we can do.
Do reference decent discharging articles if unsure, such as this one: FREE PC HARDWARE TEACHING: repair and troubleshooting of a computer and video monitor
Once the case screws have been removed and any swivel base also removed, the rear of the monitor will lift away.
You'll see something similar to this pic, taken from the above link:
Using a plastic handled screwdriver, you can move around any large capacitor and short between the terminals. That's the rough and ready approach, a big ceramic white 10W resistor is another way. Also short the pins on the board that sits at the back of the tube. The tube itself need not be discharged when familiar with the procedure but it's advisable. One method is to tightly wind a mains thickness wire around the metal of the screwdriver and attach the other end to the metal chassis. Now, wearing a rubber glove or gardening glove, push the screwdriver under the rubber suction cup on the main part of the tube, its the round rubber thing with the thick red wire leading to the flyback large box on the circuit board. You'll hear a small snap, nearly identical to a piezo lighter and then will probably wonder what the fuss is about. If that is the situation, then you've done it correctly ! Repeat that push under the cap a couple more times and the tube is then discharged - the monitor is safe. To further ensure safety, snip the large red wire.
Now, how do we get the wire off to wind coils with ?
Here's something similar to what you'll be looking at:
The main board at the bottom there will pull off from the pins of the tube neck.
Next, you'll see the (reusable) screw clamps. Unscrew those and remove the clamps.
The focus rings are the black thin circles of what looks like ferrite, these will pull away and off quite readily.
At this point, you might have a situation where the whole rest of the assembly simply lifts off with some gentle left/right twisting
job done Otherwise, any large gobs of glue are what will be holding the assembly in place. You can run a knife or the screwdriver into this glue and, while gently twisting, the assembly will suddenly break free and be able to be lifted off.
Tube necks can break, but it takes some force and a heavy handed approach.
Finally, the large ferrite pieces that may obscure the multi-strand wire will snap off in 2 halves. Clips often join them and they can be removed with a flat ended screwdriver. Once popped off, tap the ferrite with the screwdriver handle with a sharp rap and the pieces will then come away from the multi-strand wire sitting underneath.
I hope that may be of use to some folks and don't forget all the extra goodies from the monitor. Transistors, heatsinks, degauss coil, capacitors, resistors and more.
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