Tesla's Magnifying Transmitter "Replications"

[MonsieurM]

for the rotating ring, how about this

from: http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...-travel-2.html

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Movie Contact with Jodie Foster
Author and producer Carl Sagan see also: http://www.energeticforum.com/147767-post84.html





notice the water and the crystal of water (ie: ice )


Contact (1997) - IMDb

cheers

[dR-Green]

Good observations too, you are correct by increasing the effective
capacitance with the proximity of you're body and fluro the resonant
frequency of the secondary is lowered this means that the primary is a bit
lower resonant frequency than the secondary and good for demonstration of
the fluro lighting and stuff.

If you want to better match them there are two ways to go and two ways to do each,
you could decrease the primary capacitance and raise its frequency, or
increase the secondary capacitance and lower its frequency, either way will
match them up, then the trick is to do the same with the receiver, then you
can blow bulbs.

Excellent piece of info, thanks I realised this in a big way last night. To cut a long story short, I can light the bulb at full brightness (or as bright as I can get it) from the output of the transmitter, in series before the bucket of soil, and I can light the 12v LED at the receiver, if not at full brightness then not far off. The incandescent bulb's brightness isn't affected at all.

But to get this effect I have to put my hand pretty close to the receiver terminal. If I touch it then I get no output from the receiver. I haven't dared to touch the transmitter terminal yet so I think I'll make bigger terminals to find that out

This effect doesn't happen so much with the incandescent on the receiver though.

Anyway I'll make a video of it shortly and check out the rest of the stuff you posted. I also have other updates, both good and bad, so I'll cover all those in a bit.

[Farmhand]

Hi all, I did some tests today with my setup so i'll post the video's here.

This was the test setup. It was to show reduced input under load and reduced
load on the source battery while loading the output.
Current measured at the (A) points and voltage at the (V) points.

I measured the output power as below.

with just the 6 LED's = 0.002 volts across a 0.1 ohms resistor with 41 volts
across the load so 0.002 v / 0.1 ohm = 0.020 A * 41 v = 0.82 watts

with the motor as well = 0.005 volts across a 0.1 ohms resister with 9 volts
across the load= 0.005 v / 0.1 ohm = 0.050 A * 9 = 0.45 watts

So I think that is right.

The input power reduced by a little bit when the LED's were connected but the output voltage went up so that was very good.
Then the input power reduced from 7.5 watts to 3.8 watts when I added the Motor as load in place of the LED's or as well as the LED's.

Basically adding the motor as load reduced the input power by half.

The LED's went out when the motor was connected because of the resistance
in series with them is not in series with the motor.



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This video shows some current measurements and stuff.

AlternateFarmhand1's Channel - YouTube

This one shows the reduced load on the source battery when loading the output.

Reduced input current under added load effects 33 - YouTube

[dR-Green]

There's no arcing, presumably because the potential difference between each layered turn isn't big enough.

Turns out I was wrong. There IS arcing. I think it happened sunday night. I was fiddling with the spark gap and I thought I heard a "pop", I looked up and could see plasma in the coil.

It's only in one spot though, so maybe the insulation wasn't right or it got damaged during construction or something. It's not a single arc, it's about 1-2cm length of wire that's arcing into the wire above it. But this is easily resolved by moving the other wire up in the groove about 2mm.

I think to make it more of a permanent fix the wires could be glued into the grooves, and the wires held a couple of mm away from each other. Based on where it's happened on mine, the glue itself would also cover up the damaged area so this is ok.

But there are other parts of the coil where the wires are still directly on top of each other with no arcing, so it seems to suggest a problem with the insulation. It happened on the 2nd groove from the outside of the transmitter secondary.

I think the important point is that the coil didn't go up in one big ball of plasma and the arcing wasn't out of control.

[Farmhand]

Turns out I was wrong. There IS arcing. I think it happened sunday night. I was fiddling with the spark gap and I thought I heard a "pop", I looked up and could see plasma in the coil.

It's only in one spot though, so maybe the insulation wasn't right or it got damaged during construction or something. It's not a single arc, it's about 1-2cm length of wire that's arcing into the wire above it. But this is easily resolved by moving the other wire up in the groove about 2mm.

I think to make it more of a permanent fix the wires could be glued into the grooves, and the wires held a couple of mm away from each other. Based on where it's happened on mine, the glue itself would also cover up the damaged area so this is ok.

But there are other parts of the coil where the wires are still directly on top of each other with no arcing, so it seems to suggest a problem with the insulation. It happened on the 2nd groove from the outside of the transmitter secondary.

I think the important point is that the coil didn't go up in one big ball of plasma and the arcing wasn't out of control.

OK not hard to overcome with a fix like you will. I would suggest trying to separate the others a bit as well.

If i may, I have a suggestion for the laying out of the positions for the grooves
to wind a spiral coil in. In case you hadn't thought of it yet, you probably already have.

I think the way to go is to fix a dowel or rod to the center of the base board,
then with a pencil and string tie the pencil to one end of the string and the
other end of the string to the dowel/rod. If the diameter of the dowel is
chosen so that after drawing one revolution by wrapping the string around the
dowel the space is as desired the spiral will be automatically drawn perfectly,
just don't wind the string on top of itself and use a brace to keep the pencil
perpendicular to the board. The turn spacing will be about equal to the
circumference of the dowel.

Start with the string just the right length to begin from the outer chosen start
point. And keep the string tight of course.

Then the grooved or slotted pieces can be attached to the base board to
align with the spiral drawn on the base. The coil will follow the drawn spiral.

Perfect spiral coil form.

I can draw it if you want, or I could explain it better. I don't mind at all just ask.

Yes I agree a coil with stray arcs could start a fire, which could be far worse
than being electrically shocked. Fire is a major concern. And seeing the
plasma to the table you had reinforces the need for caution.

I wouldn't recommend touching you're terminal, particularly not with you're head,
so be careful looking for stray arcs. Hehehe.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

I did some messing about with the plant pot and discovered I could tune the
transmitter coil pretty good when grounded to the pot, then I could get some cool
effects from the dirt, like making the 25 watt oven bulb glow while one wire is
stuck in the dirt and I'm holding the other wire.

And I can light a neon bulb from the leaf of a weed. Hehehe

Here's the video. When I grabbed the bulb there was a very small arc which
burned me a bit, again.

Resonant Dirt.wmv - YouTube

Cheers

Edit: Here's another video of some wireless fluro lighting, I had to wear a disguise in this clip.

Wireless Fluro Lighting - 4.wmv - YouTube

..

[Farmhand]

Another experiment video, this one is underwater light bulb glowing.

Underwater lighting with HF.wmv - YouTube

Cheers

[dR-Green]

Excellent stuff. This could make interesting Christmas tree lighting

Also excellent idea of how to make a spiral. I might give it a try the next time, I have a feeling it will be easier said than done though

What happens if you have one wire going into the bulb, and then the one coming out of it going into the water?

In case you haven't noticed or it's different in your setup, I'm connecting the one wire to the middle terminal of the bulb, so it goes through the filament and then on the other side of the filament is the metal casing. And it likes having some metal or something (dirt) on the other side of the filament, it gets a lot brighter.

So what happens if instead of metal you use the water? This has given me an idea for a bulb in a jar device anyway using this method and have the connecting terminal coming through the lid and the water in the jar as the "ground" or whatever it's supposed to be, I'll build it tomorrow hopefully

Also another idea with 500ml (or bigger) coke bottles and 4W fluoros. Drill 2 holes in the lid for the terminals, glue the fluoro in place to make it waterproof, and fill the bottle with water

Very good videos anyway. I can't help but laugh at the idea of the pot


On a side note, I was searching for big blue caps in the garage earlier to make a voltage multiplier, and inside some old spectrometer I spotted a HUGE transformer. Managed to find a label and wipe off the dust...

Input: 240V
Output: 12V 500A Don't think I can make use of that any time soon

I'll finish off a circuit diagram and post the updates I was talking about before now anyway.

[Farmhand]

I'm glad you got a laugh. We can't be deadly serious all the time.

Yes I see what you mean about the bulb, a piece of wire confirms that too.

I was holding one wire of the oven bulb between my fingers with the other
end connected to the transmitter ground to light it.

You have put some neat idea's out. I wouldn't have tried the water except
you mentioned it, then when i started that's how the experiment led me.

Notice the neon with a higher resistance in the bulb than that of the water
was shorted.

And the 240 volt bulb with higher wattage rating glows more than the 2 watt
one.

And I think that the longitudinal waves prefer solids like metal and dirt to
fluids like water and gas. Which is in agreement with the theory I think. Not
exactly sure. I can transmit through over 6 Kohms of dirt resistance better
than through water or fluro tube.

In the fluro video did you see the dark spot in the middle of the fluro tube
when I hold it by both ends ? I think it is similar to the dark space Crookes
describes in " On Radiant Matter". I'm intrigued by the dark spot.

How did you like my disguise? The beard was fake but the big black eyes are real.

Tropical storms again tonight, I might attempt to register something from the ground.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

Oh yeah dR, I tried 24 volts input and got a bit better output but the mosfets got very warm. I think for more input power in solid state I'll need more fets in parallel and try to shield the PG circuitry to clean up the drive signal, I've a pair of mosfet driver IC's I can use which will help. I'll test putting the circuitry in a shielded box first to shield it from the coils noise I hope.

I'm thinking about making some HV primaries and setting up a spark gap after some more experiments, I've got to mount the coax spool on a reel kind of setup so I can roll it out and reel it in. Then I'll see how far I can do a transmission with low voltage input and compare to HV input later.

On a side note, I was searching for big blue caps in the garage earlier to make a voltage multiplier, and inside some old spectrometer I spotted a HUGE transformer. Managed to find a label and wipe off the dust...

Input: 240V
Output: 12V 500A Don't think I can make use of that any time soon

Maybe at a later date you might be able to use that transformer or one like it to pulse a cap charged from the receiver output though a spark gap and the 240 side to step down the output from 2000v down to 100v or something.

Excellent stuff. This could make interesting Christmas tree lighting

Now you got me thinking novelty lights.
I asked some potted trees to volunteer for experiments, but none stepped forward. I need two plants on opposite sides of the pot so I can light neons between them. I think they'll dry out and burn up, but I'll see.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

Potted 10 watt fluro's.



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I think if I use enough power i can light a fluro by poking one end in the pot and connecting a piece of metal isolated from the pot to the other end.

[dR-Green]

I thought the beard was real I guess it worked well

I forgot to ask, was that thunder in the background? I noticed the dark spot too. It didn't seem to go away either when you put your hands closer which was strange.

And the 240 volt bulb with higher wattage rating glows more than the 2 watt one.

Strange again Sounds similar to my issue where the only bulb I could light was the 240v 15w. 12v 5w wouldn't work at all, but I have managed to light it a bit on the receiver since. Haven't done anything with it recently or tried any others. (I could do something with a 40w with 2 coils in series or parallel but I'll cover that sometime later).

I've also noticed that I don't get plasma from the coil output, but there is plasma after it's gone through the bulb, so it seems to be having some effect on it.

Anyway it's gone 9am and doing this circuit diagram took longer than I expected so I'll reply to the rest tomorrow, and I'll just post the updates for now...

I've been starting to suspect that a better output (lighting the bulb) is more closely related to the input voltage than the current, seeing as I've been using nearly 2 amps 12v on average, and barely being able to light a 62mA 240v bulb. This seems to be confirmed so far. I've adjusted the 555 circuit so now I'm running the 555 off a separate supply to the transistors. 7v for the 555, and I've increased the transistors/flyback voltage to 28v.

For the same light output as before, at 12v 1.8A input, I can now get the same output at 28v 900mA. 1.5-1.8A gives a relatively nice output.

This video shows it as best I can, and around the middle the only light in the room is coming from that. Except the PC monitor but I doubt this webcam is that sensitive The main purpose of it was to show how the receiver output is better when I put my hand near it. And I tried with the fluoro but it didn't come out too well. I should have used the 4w maybe because it's smaller and I'd be closer to the terminal, so better to see how the LED brightness is increased, fluoro is lit, and the incandescent in series before the pot of soil isn't affected by getting a better output.

This is the exact circuit diagram of what makes up device "G". [edit] I don't know if those diodes are of any use since using the rectifier, but it works so why not



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imkrgy76dLs

I hope y'all like Deep Purple

Nice pics btw

[Farmhand]

Hi dR, You're circuit looks good. Have you tried it without the earth
connection on the secondary ? And if so what happened ?

Deep Purple is cool. You're getting some good light from the setup, there are
a lot of different ways to experiment with these things, interesting stuff. That
is a big increase in the brightness of the LED light. The oven bulbs are bright
too. Good stuff. Different loads and different kinds of lights will have different
effects. Can you try some 4000 volt capacitors charged from the receiver and
discharged through a light bulb ? You would have two spark gaps then one in
one out. That might give a stable output to go with the stable input.
You might find with a cap on the receiver output it might become
more "in tune" kinda. You have the setup to do this experiment below.

Like this, top one.


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Did I mention if you want to run a small motor you might need to step down and
rectify some output to DC low voltage into an electrolytic capacitor and run the
motor from that.

I also just realized that a bulb run from a 12 volt battery will run under water
just fine, and I used rain water which is less conductive than tap water so
this tells me the voltage is very low between my coils, although it can arc a
bit and burn it is mostly current because the voltage is at the top terminal.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

Hey dR, I'm totally sidetracked but coming around full circle soon, I've setup a
spark gap using my Tesla transformer-ignition coil 3x 3.6 nF/4000v caps in series
and a spark plug. it works ok and using the transformer is having a good effect
because I can charge a second battery from the spikes. I tuned the transformer
primaries with a 1 uF charging cap and it seems very efficient, I can get good arcs
from my little hybrid coil with 1 amp input and I think I am recovering lots of that,
I'm charging a second big battery as I use the setup and the source battery
isn't draining much. I hope it isn't OU if it is I'll have to dismantle it and call the
MIB to come and rouse on me. If I can keep swapping batteries I will know.

So i'll use it and see what happens. I'll bet a high power the battery drains quick though.

This is the setup i'm making for a HV spark gapped arrangement.
Anyway so I have two smaller coils I can use for coil "B's" already, I just need
to make two more coupling coil sets two coil "A's" to put the coil "B's" in series
with and two HV coil "C's" primary and output coils. Then i can use the
terminals from the low voltage setup on these new coils when I want to, but
still keeping the low voltage setup for lights at night. Thes new coils should be
resonant at about 1.5 Mhz. maybe a bit less.

Here's some waves. This one is all the oscillations in the transformer primary
charging capacitor.


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This one is a few zoomed in. Each one of those is an oscillation in the
transformer primary and yet I'm only pulsing it at the frequency of the groups,
as you can see the actual voltage in the primary cap is rising with each
oscilation before the primary coil is discharged to start it all again.
That's what it looks like to me anyway, I'm up for alternative explanations.


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And this is the recovery waveform to the second battery, It shows a
pregnant hump too.


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All of this above is going on before the ignition coil so that's a good sign I think.

Edit in these fun video's here.

Spark gap Test.wmv - YouTube

Little Tesla Trumpet.wmv - YouTube

This one the neon is lit from the transformer secondary.
White Neon.wmv - YouTube

P.S. Here's the basic circuit I used in the above video I couldn't draw it all,
but I will if asked. my transformer is more complicated than the drawing and I
ran out of space so I left out the over-voltage arc recovery.

The Tesla coils are not really tuned in the video the little one is a bit but the
other one isn't.



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[dR-Green]

And I think that the longitudinal waves prefer solids like metal and dirt to fluids like water and gas. Which is in agreement with the theory I think. Not exactly sure. I can transmit through over 6 Kohms of dirt resistance better than through water or fluro tube.

Hi Farmhand. I'll have to do some more tests myself, I haven't tried water before the bulb yet. But I have noticed that the jar also energises the soil it's sitting on, and the soil grounds it even more. With the jar placed on the soil, I can light fluoros off the copper pipes and there are also small sparks.

I reckon adding salt might have an interesting effect too, but I don't want to start producing hydrogen so I hope that won't happen. Although if it does that could be another interesting side effect of getting a better light output.

Did anything happen with the storm?

Have you tried it without the earth
connection on the secondary ? And if so what happened ?

The secondary of the flyback? If that's what you mean then I'm not sure, if I did then it was before I got the hang of it so I suppose the answer would be no.

I knew there was a load of stuff I forgot to mention before anyway, relating to changing the power supply and better output etc. So before I forget again, first of all, adding the diode to the flyback/ignition coil used to give me a reduced output. IE the spark gap got weaker. With the new power supply, tweaked 555 and less input current as I mentioned, adding the diode now gives me an increased output, the spark gap gets stronger.

I also believe there was an overall improvement just by using the opto and putting the 555 on a different power supply to the transistors/flyback. There's definitely an improvement by using a higher voltage than the 555 will handle, but the drawback I've noticed so far is that I can't use below a certain resistance to drive the transistors because the opto signal turns to mush and the flyback starts to draw more current and gives less output. It all seems to be a balance of the resistors to get the frequency and transistor drive compatible to give me an input current and output combination I think is acceptable. It's not a simple matter of finding the right frequency and just turning up the gain unfortunately. But either way, I have a better output and lower input than before so it's a step in the right direction.

Using a mains power usage monitor thing, the transformers with no load use about 30W (including RCD safety adaptor). With 350pF capacitance before the spark gap the input was about 40-80W jumping around, updating every 1-2 seconds. With 150pF and 200pF, it would bounce around from as low as 0.4W and up to about 70W, and showing such numbers as 4W, 11W, 24W etc in between. Which is less than the transformers use with no load to begin with. Although it did spend more time above 30W than under it, it was still displaying these low numbers. I was thinking it could be due to the wirelessness effect, but then it was still displaying reasonable numbers, not totally random and ridiculously high ones as a digital meter might do, so I dunno

I also broke my RCD safety adaptor. But luckily the shop replaced it for free. I wonder how many more times I can do that before they refuse to give me any more It's not much of a safety device though. When it broke, it got stuck ON

Also, when I turn the whole setup on for the first time it draws about 1.9A, but if I leave it going for a couple of minutes it slowly drops down to 1.5A with no visual or audible difference to the output as far as I can tell, unless it's such a gradual change I don't notice.

And I tried a voltage doubler and got 38V, and nearly fried the transistors. Although at this voltage the spark gap sounded nice, it had turned into more of an engine purring type of deeper noise. But the transistors got really hot and I only noticed when the output started getting less by the second as the transistor was grinding to a halt. So if there's a way to overcome that then it could be good

I'll need more fets in parallel

Would that also work in my setup and solve the problem above?

Maybe at a later date you might be able to use that transformer or one like it to pulse a cap charged from the receiver output though a spark gap and the 240 side to step down the output from 2000v down to 100v or something.

Good idea, I'll keep that in mind Apparently it's a welding transformer.

Now you got me thinking novelty lights.
I asked some potted trees to volunteer for experiments, but none stepped forward. I need two plants on opposite sides of the pot so I can light neons between them. I think they'll dry out and burn up, but I'll see.

Hehe. I have some pine seeds. I might plant a few, and maybe I could use one or more in series, and not the others, for these experiments, and see if the plants grow differently.

I wonder if the branches would also light the neon, or just the leaf because the water is closer? If you use a few of them maybe the power could be low enough not to burn the plant. Haven't tried any plants yet so I dunno how it works.

Can you try some 4000 volt capacitors charged from the receiver and
discharged through a light bulb ?

In parallel with the mirroring capacitors (350pF)?

What's that gap in the wire in Fig. 126 supposed to be? I haven't tried it like that with a spark gap and the bulbs, but with no load and 350pF caps to mirror the transmitter, when I tried shorting the receiver the other day going through the bucket of soil I wasn't getting any sparks at all

Did I mention if you want to run a small motor you might need to step down and
rectify some output to DC low voltage into an electrolytic capacitor and run the
motor from that.

Yes, thanks There's a lot of stuff I've tried in the past but haven't recently since the improvements. The last time I tried a rectifier on the output I didn't get anything out at all. I haven't tried a transformer on the output though to step it down, but then I don't get sparks there so do I need to step it down Lots of things to figure out and try I think.

I also just realized that a bulb run from a 12 volt battery will run under water
just fine

Yes but will 12v light the bulb with the positive wire connecting to the bulb in water, and the negative wire connecting to the water? And then if you take the negative wire out of the water?