Tesla's Magnifying Transmitter "Replications"

[antigraviticsystems1]

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[7imix]

From the second picture, I can see that this is the receiver. I see the transformer at the bottom, looks like some sort of off the shelf transformer. Then on the board above we see the capacitor, resistor, and behind it a big black chip which must be the bridge rectifier.

It would be nice to know what the length and gauge of the primary and secondary is, and the specs of the core.

Great job, antigraviticsystems1!

[Farmhand]

From the second picture, I can see that this is the receiver. I see the transformer at the bottom, looks like some sort of off the shelf transformer. Then on the board above we see the capacitor, resistor, and behind it a big black chip which must be the bridge rectifier.

It would be nice to know what the length and gauge of the primary and secondary is, and the specs of the core.

Great job, antigraviticsystems1!

I think the second pic there is the part from an appliance the secondary is the white enclosure with the coil in it I think, is it a flyback or some transformer from an appliance or something, looks like a ferrite Square core. I've never seen something like that.

antigraviticsystems1, you handsome devil, I would be carefull posting picture's of you're self you could end up with a cult following of energy groupies or something. They might get in the way of you're work.

I thought we all had big beards.

Back to the farmwork.

[7imix]

Yes, that is some sort of high frequency transformer, a flyback or something.

[antigraviticsystems1]

receiver images



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[boguslaw]

I'm confused. Each flyback has two terminals : HV and low voltage. Mostly low voltage of secondary is joined with primary and can be grounded.
Here there is an old flyback without joined terminals.Yet still IMHO output secondary has one HV terminal and one lower voltage or ground terminal.

Which one is used as single wire transmission line ? HV or ground terminal ???

Look at my comments on picture.

[antigraviticsystems1]

LOOK AT THIS DRAWING HERE IS THE INFORMATION YOU NEED, IF YOU UNDERSTAND THIS DRAWING AND THE MATERIALIZED EXACTLY, YOU WILL GET RESULTS IDENTICAL TO MINE:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us .................................................. photo taken in front of a mirror what you are seeing is an old fly back to black & white monitor unused with various windings, resistors and capacitors, but I only use the high voltage winding white and ferrite core, Greetings

[Farmhand]

Hi Farmhand. I like your idea to cut a straight piece of pipe, I've had trouble with that myself. I'm not attempting the things discussed in this thread at the moment but having recently built a Tesla coil I thought I'd share how I did it in case something might solve a problem or give ideas to someone out there. The coil I've made is on a smaller scale than this, using 2" diameter PVC downpipe. For the topload toroid I used 2" diameter pipe insulation (that grey foam stuff), cut V shaped notches out of it with a knife to be able to fold it into a toroid small enough to fit the 2" diameter secondary, held it together with some duct tape and then taped it up real good with aluminium foil tape. Each piece of which conveniently NOT being insulated from every other piece, so job done there. I was foreseeing problems as one might imagine

For a backup topload I grabbed a couple of plastic toilet cistern floats

On the top and bottom of the PVC pipe, as a stand basically, I used what's called a boss connect or boss adapter, looks similar to this

http://www.allplumbingsupplies.co.uk..._2s402_img.jpg

The ones I have have a small notch on one side, so I made a hole in a piece of 18mm thick MDF, cut a small notch in it with a hacksaw, and place the boss connect down into the hole. There is a rubber seal inside the boss connect, so when you put the pipe the secondary is wound on into it it's held in place tightly. The 18mm thickness of the MDF and the correct sized hole is enough to support the coil. Another boss connect goes on the top of the pipe, and the pipe insulation toroid along with a thick layer of tape fits tightly onto it.

I haven't decided how to finish it off yet but my temporary solution is I've scraped the insulation off the end of the secondary wire, held it on the boss connect and then push the toroid down over it to make the connection.

I'll take some pictures and post them soon to make it all a bit easier to understand.

Hey guys, I will be repairing my switching circuit soon and I was trying to think of an easier way to make some better toroid terminals when I remembered the post above by dR-Green, and I thought " pool snakes" the foam things for pool toys, "pool noodles" whatever they are called should work really well for the ring, they would be similar to the grey stuff dR used I hope. Though I'm not sure if i will need to cut wedges from them like dR did if so so be it. Actually a pool shop might even have some type of foam rings ready made. It's been a few years since I've been near a pool or a pool store so who knows what they have.

Thanks dR.

[AetherScientist]

LOOK AT THIS DRAWING HERE IS THE INFORMATION YOU NEED, IF YOU UNDERSTAND THIS DRAWING AND THE MATERIALIZED EXACTLY, YOU WILL GET RESULTS IDENTICAL TO MINE:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us .................................................. photo taken in front of a mirror what you are seeing is an old fly back to black & white monitor unused with various windings, resistors and capacitors, but I only use the high voltage winding white and ferrite core, Greetings

mira que te encuentro por todos los lados tio... pareces jesucristo,
saludos, neutrino.

A simple way to construc E-Field communication devices is to build a Tesla Coil and, in the secondary, you need to ground one end (I think the grounding is optional) and then with the other wire of the secondary attach it to a pancake coil (a flat coil). If you put near the pancake, another pancake coil you'll see how is possible to obtain electrostatic induction and you'll be able to light bulbs and another devices, using only scalar energy.

[Farmhand]

Hi all, I've got my setup back up and running, I only seem to have ruined one mosfet and the PWM chip, so I replaced the chip and both mosfets, I'm using IRF840's now.

The setup seems to be working even better now than before, just before I damaged the circuit I replaced the diode's in the FWBR on the receiver for FR307's 1000v fast recovery diode's so that might explain some of the improved receiver voltage.

I also noticed there is a definate decrease of the input current when I wirelessly light a fluro from the transmitter. So for all those who like to see reduced input with load here is one example. Looks like about 150 Ma reduction when lighting an 18 watt fluro, the fluro is not using 18 watts though of course.

Reduced input wth load clip.
AlternateFarmhand1's Channel - YouTube

Now I can concentrate on crafting some good toroid terminals.

[antigraviticsystems1]

‪TRANSMISIÓN DE ENERGIA INALAMBRICA II‬‏ - YouTube

[dR-Green]

Hey guys, I will be repairing my switching circuit soon and I was trying to think of an easier way to make some better toroid terminals when I remembered the post above by dR-Green, and I thought " pool snakes" the foam things for pool toys, "pool noodles" whatever they are called should work really well for the ring, they would be similar to the grey stuff dR used I hope. Though I'm not sure if i will need to cut wedges from them like dR did if so so be it. Actually a pool shop might even have some type of foam rings ready made. It's been a few years since I've been near a pool or a pool store so who knows what they have.

Thanks dR.

Glad you found it useful. I think you should be ok with larger diameters, the only reason I had to cut wedges out of it was because I couldn't get it into a small enough ring to have a 2" hole in the middle to fit over the secondary. The foam would just tear if I tried to bend it any more, so bits of it had to be removed If these pools things are the things I'm thinking of those might be even better, and it's a harder material I think. I've been trying to look for kids toys etc along these lines in the typical pound/dollar shops but hadn't thought of pool accessories, so I'll keep that in mind. Thanks

I've basically finished my matching pair (mirror image) coils anyway, except for a bit of sanding and making it look nice, and I'm about to assemble the base for two 30cm diameter pancake coils, if all goes to plan and none of the fragile parts disintegrate while I'm doing it, so I'll be able to do something before long. The last few days have been spent making all the parts, and the simple tedious repetitive work damn near wiped me out. But I've figured out how NOT to do things now anyway, and better ways of doing what I've done, so the next bigger coils shouldn't be such an unpleasant experience

[Farmhand]

Hi all, Nice demo antigraviticsystems, good to see someone is being scientific about their work. Completely wireless.

I managed to get an energiser running from the receiver, my old mini three pole SSG. video below.
Lights + SSG powered from receiver.wmv - YouTube

Still haven't been able to get to town yet so no proogress on the toroid terminals. I hope to get there this week sometime.

While I'm in town i'll get some conductive duct tape too if I can.

I had someone pick up a 6 foot copper ground rod, but i'm not sure if I will be able to drive it in the ground it is only about a half inch diameter, I guess that might make it easier, there are some very large granite boulders here under the ground we've dug some up over a meter diameter. They are mostly just under the surface and fairly soft, some can be driven through, there are other types of rock down there too though and lots of em. If the ground rod goes in ok i'll get some more, I think they should be at least ten meters from the house ground, my electric fence tells me its grounds should be that far from the house ground so I'll go with that. I think multiple grounds in a connected array should be about 5 meters apart for best effect.

I live on top of a hill on top of a mountain so I don't hold much hope for getting a very good ground, during winter when there is no rain the ground sounds almost hollow when I beat on it, in summer when it rains heavy the water spouts from several places so the ground seems quite porus, water actually flows quite fast under here.

Hey dR, the pancake's sound good, looking forward to seeing that setup. Did you wind you're coils opposite directions ? If so it will be interesting to see how they work.

I thought about it but decided to wind them the same because I imagined that if wound the same way if I was to join the two bottom ends together it would be like one big long coil. It would be interesting to see if there is actually a difference.

I should deconstruct my coils and improve the build, but I'm very busy just lately.

Feel free to post here if you're doing transmissions. More the merrier.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

Earthing

Hi all, here are a couple of electric fence installation guides. Some fences rely on the earth return system and some don't it depends on how you build it, but all the installation guides show how to get a good earthing. Of course with the Earth return system a good Earthing is vital.

Daken electric fence installation Guide
http://www.daken.com.au/downloads/ma...fencing_07.pdf

Because of the poor ground conduction here in winter with dry ground (which is when the stock want to get out to greener pasture's) I use the fence return system shown on page 7, the earth return only system is shown on page 6 and there is also a bipolar system which is AC I imagine and require's a different energiser. The Earthing section starts page 14.

With the fence return system a ground is also used, it is very effective for me because goats are difficult to contain. Mine is solar powered with no regulator so during the day the source battery can get to over 16 volts, which improve's the output voltage a bit. I use old 7 aH gell cells with water in them.

Thundrbird Guide.
http://www.thunderbird.net.au/pdf/hints.pdf

Anyway I thought I would link those electric fence installation guide's, as I think they are very useful for anyone wanting to setup a single wire Earth return or Earth transfer energy transmission system.

I already considered pulsing a Tesla coil with the fence energiser but I haven't got around to trying that yet. Sooner or later it will happen though. It will be interesting to see what happens.

Cheers

P.S. So far in the area just outside the bunkhouse/experiment hut I have only been able to drive the copper rod about three feet into the ground before hitting solid rock, I'm thinking I might need to bore a hole with the post hole digger/auger on the tractor then fill the hole and put the stake in that. Big drama for a simple Earth stake.

[dR-Green]

Hey dR, the pancake's sound good, looking forward to seeing that setup. Did you wind you're coils opposite directions ? If so it will be interesting to see how they work.

I thought about it but decided to wind them the same because I imagined that if wound the same way if I was to join the two bottom ends together it would be like one big long coil. It would be interesting to see if there is actually a difference.

The coils are wound in opposite directions, although the primary isn't made on the 2nd one yet because I've been adding the final touches while building the bases for the pancake coils. I plan to experiment a bit with different numbers of turns on the primary with the simple SEC circuits on the 2nd coil before I make anything too permanent, because I've put too many turns on the 1st coil primary thinking I can always shorten the wire easily enough. So I'd like to see what differences there are there as well.

I've sort of just made one pancake coil, but I'm going to have to start the secondary again. I matched the weight of copper between the primary and secondary, and as I suspected, the wire is too thin/light so won't fit on to the base I've made. So I'll have to weigh out some thicker wire and try again. Just a few meters too much wire left over with 26 SWG. The next size I have is 22 SWG so I might have to go buy some 24 SWG tomorrow too depending on how it turns out. On the plus side the pancake coil isn't too bad to wind