Degenerate Semiconductor Material

[StweenyA]

electret, and permittivity

Great way of putting it! So are there any conductive materials that are known not to create a magnetic field when current is applied?

So what does this mean for an electret?
From what I know (correct me if I'm wrong) an electret is permanently polarized, thus giving it a permanent electrostatic charge, making it the electrostatic equivalent of a permanent magnet. But how does this affect it's relaxation time? And how does an electret fit in with what we've discussed above?

Good luck with the table! I would like to see it when done.
I am also trying to make one - it seems finding out a materials conductivity is as easy as pie, but getting it's permittivity is not so easy. Any ideas how we can get this?

[AetherScientist]

The magnetic field is present only when current flows. And current flows due to an overcharge in the electric field. But if you apply wattage (that includes current) to a glass, current won't flow.

Yes, an electret is permanently Electric Polarized (not magnetic polarized). An electret is the same as a magnet, but the magnet is magnetic and the electret is electric. An electret is not able to build a magnetic field, so it cannot dissipate electrons in the form of amperes.

Check a book called "Electrinium Battery".

[StweenyA]

Sources for Permittivity and Conductivity?

AetherScientist, good info again, thanks.

And that was an interesting read. Why hasn't it been done though?

Does anyone know where we can find sources for the Permittivity and Conductivity, for any given material or alloy?

Or, how to calculate it?

[dambit]

Hi guys,

This is exactly the thread I was looking for. Lots of great info already. Good work

StweenyA, what is the timing circuit you have for this project. I have attached a schematic of one I was thinking of using. I have tested it but I don't have two scope leads so I will have to slow it down to check the inversion of the signal.

I am thinking at this stage I will just wind a coil using nichrome wire as it is easy to get.

Cheers,

Steve

P.S The reason for the separate 12V rails is so that I can test the load supply without having to worry about the oscillator supply.

[AetherScientist]

AetherScientist, good info again, thanks.

And that was an interesting read. Why hasn't it been done though?

Does anyone know where we can find sources for the Permittivity and Conductivity, for any given material or alloy?

Or, how to calculate it?

I've read some documents about the properties of magnetic cores. You know you can use more efficiently the energy if you don't loose energy in form of heat (amperage). For that you need to switch very fast the power source to the collector to prevent current flow (energy looses).
A similar thing happens with magnetic cores. You can tune the circuit to some properties of magnetic cores to get a COP > 1. Search in the net for documents about this phenomenon.

Hi guys,

This is exactly the thread I was looking for. Lots of great info already. Good work

StweenyA, what is the timing circuit you have for this project. I have attached a schematic of one I was thinking of using. I have tested it but I don't have two scope leads so I will have to slow it down to check the inversion of the signal.

I am thinking at this stage I will just wind a coil using nichrome wire as it is easy to get.

Cheers,

Steve

P.S The reason for the separate 12V rails is so that I can test the load supply without having to worry about the oscillator supply.

I think it could be better nichrome foil. You can made homemade capacitors using the foil. In EFTV 5 you can see how they explain that. Nichrome is a very degenerated semiconductor and for sure you can get good reasults with it.

[StweenyA]

@AetherScientist, is there any way to help visualize the polarization from the voltage, which creates the electric field, and the polirization from the current, which creates the magnetic field?

"current flows due to an overcharge in the electric field" hmm, but if you yourself are fully charged up with voltage, you won't discharge until you actually touch an object such as a door handle? But then of course the differences in charge will become quite apparent.
But why does a balloon charged with voltage (static) stick to the wall or ceiling? What exactly is the electric field doing?

@dambit, where did you get that circuit from, or did you create it?
I have never seen something like that before, it looks quite interesting. Does it completely disconnect the secondary from the primary? And does the basic concept even work?
It looks like a few things are intentionally connected the wrong way.

My circuit is quite simple, please view the link.
The Bearden Free Energy Collector
I used four SSR's in place of the switches. Problem with them though is they can only switch in ~100uS to 1ms or so. But they work with decent current and voltage.
And then I have connected them to a microchip, and programmed the timing routine in the microchip.
I also added the diode in the secondary, which definitely helped when I set the discharge interval to be very short. If I connected it (without changing anything else) it would speed up the motor connected a lot!

[dambit]

@dambit, where did you get that circuit from, or did you create it?
I have never seen something like that before, it looks quite interesting. Does it completely disconnect the secondary from the primary? And does the basic concept even work?
It looks like a few things are intentionally connected the wrong way.

Hi mate,

The circuit is one I came up with is based on researching how to invert the output signal from a 555 chip. I will have to set the voltage to the transistors base to be a fraction over the trigger voltage. This way as soon as the signal voltage begins to drop the transistors will switch. Hopefully this will happen fast enough so that there is no interaction between the two sides of the circuit. I had to modify it to fit this particular application so it may or may not be 100% correct.

It looks like a few things are intentionally connected the wrong way.

I love how you phrased that question. A polite way of asking if I had made some mistakes. I will slow the pulse rate right down and connect up some lights to test if the signal inversion worked.

As I mentioned earlier, I am going to do some initial tests with nichrome wire. I am attempting to get some enameled wire from somewhere, but it is not very common stuff. I may have to get my factory in china to source some for me.

Cheers,

Steve

[dambit]

Just had a thought.

If I use a PNP transistor I don't need to invert the 555 signal, because the NPN transistor will engage when the signal is high and the PNP transistor will engage when the signal is low. I know that there may be a small (mega small) period of time when they are both on, but maybe this is why Bearden said that in reality there will be a small current.

I have attached the new circuit below.

Cheers,

Steve

[StweenyA]

Hey, haha, I asked that way because I'm no electronics expert. That's why I went the microchip way, as programming is my strong point.

The second circuit looks better, shot!
I see you also added the diode

In reality, if there is a small loss I don't think it should matter, IF it is doing exactly what he said it should do, eg more current flowing in the secondary than in primary, therefore not killing the dipole! Then we are definitely in business, and can cover all losses.

Haha can't they make that 98% Al 2% Fe alloy?! That's what bearden suggested... though again, where did he get that from?
I am also interested in it though, if you do ever get any made.
But, if you do ask them, then don't tell them what it's for!

[AetherScientist]

@AetherScientist, is there any way to help visualize the polarization from the voltage, which creates the electric field, and the polirization from the current, which creates the magnetic field?

I don't really know what are you trying to ask me. Explain me more detailed with other words.

"current flows due to an overcharge in the electric field"
Well, better explained current flows when there is an overcharge in the natural capacitance of the wire. Imagine a bottle.... each bottle has different capacitance. If you add a lot of water, there is a time when the water is entering inside the bottle, so in that moment you're playing with the pure electric field because you haven't saturated the natural capacitance of the wire. If you continue putting water then you're overcharging the bottle and the water that is going out is the water loss (amperage)

As I mentioned earlier, I am going to do some initial tests with nichrome wire. I am attempting to get some enameled wire from somewhere, but it is not very common stuff. I may have to get my factory in china to source some for me.

I have purchased on ebay nichrome wire some times. There you can buy different AWG. But the wire is without insulation. I have also tried to buy foil, but in ebay I cannot find it.

Haha can't they make that 98% Al 2% Fe alloy?! That's what bearden suggested... though again, where did he get that from?
I am also interested in it though, if you do ever get any made.
But, if you do ask them, then don't tell them what it's for!

It's more easy to test with nichrome, that alloy is difficult to made because you need to make them in vacuum and at high temperatures. Maybe the nichrome material has high relaxation time, maybe 30 msec? I don't know.

Another way to get longitudinal waves is with a coil. You can energize it (for a small period of time, before the coil starts to disipate energy) and get the echo. If you make it in the correct way, then you can have higher output than input. The only thing you are doing with this circuit is to extract pure voltage from the battery, so you cannot discharge it. You will be discharging another secondary battery that is the battery used to energize the circuit.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, AetherScientist posted this:

Of, so I'm going to explain something more detailed.
Use a 12V power source (transformer or battery) that is connected to a DC square wave generator. There you would be able to perform:
· Adjust the frequency of the DC pulses
· Adjust the Duty Cycle (optional)
· Adjust the Volts and Amperes (optional)

The modulated DC output need to be connected to the primary of a tesla coil. In the secondary you automatically get a single-line energy transmission. Of course, if you connect that single wire to a light bulb (for example) you won't see anything. So, connect that single-wire as the primary in the toroid core. And instead of getting 2-wire in the output, you don't use any wire as the secondary. A capacitor acts like the secondary. Simply put an axial cap inside the hole of the toroid and then connect a small light bulb to the capacitor, like the classic configuration.

so has anyone tried this setup, it sounds interesting, thanks. Have you tried this circuit AetherScientist?
peace love light
tyson

[AetherScientist]

@ Skywatcher
Yes, a guy in youtube tried that. check my youtube channel jamesjnichols to view the setup. It works. The unusual phenomena is that you use a single wire like the primary in the transformer.

[dambit]

Hi All,

I forgot to mention pin 2 & 6 in the second schematic should be joined.

I tested my circuit with two lights just to see if the transistors would switch at opposite times, but ran into a problem. First off, I just used the one power supply to make it simple. Also the load for the pnp transistor is connected from the collector to ground, NOT to the first load like in the schematic. I also do not have a diode as there are no coils in this test.

The problem I am having is that the npn transistor will switch on and off , but the pnp is always on. It will not flash unless I disconnect the npn. Any ideas as to why this might be the case? Probably something simple but I cant think of anything.

Cheers,

Steve

[dambit]

Never mind people I just sorted it out.

I added an LED in between the base resistor for the pnp transistor and its base.

Cheers,

Steve

[gyula]

Hi Dambit,

The problem is your R4 pull down resistor for the pnp transistor: it rather needs a pullup to the positive battery polarity, so R4 should go up to the positive rail instead of the negative one (you designated the negative as 0V).

(In case of an npn type the pull down is ok to the negative rail but for a pnp a pull up is needed for the positive rail. By inserting a series LED you performed voltage level shift for the pnp base-emitter, which is also ok in this particular schematic)

Gyula