12 volt powered oscillator led light

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi gyula, thanks for the information, with the 12 volt setup there is probably some excess bouncing around in the transistor causing that effect.
Hi guruji, thanks for the tip, yes I'm trying all sorts of different configurations and having good results.
Hi nickz, thanks for the compliment. I decided to try the same leds that are in the christmas led string, the warm white flat top ones and use those in place of the other parallel leds on the kooler type setup.
They work much better at creating more usable light, by spreading all around and for a little less input it seems than the other 5mm white/bluish leds.

What I did was try the standard joule thief output off the emitter/collector with 8 leds in parallel. Since I used only 2.6 volts or 2, 1.2 volt AA's it worked for that setup and drew 62 milliamps or 161 milliwatts, I would estimate they are just about full brightness, maybe 95%. Which makes that much more efficient than my 12 volt setup.
I may have to try, just to see, how the 12 volt circuit can run the leds in parallel off a low turn pickup coil, hope the leds stay alive.
peace love light
tyson

[Joit]

Different Leds.

I bought before a while some superbright Leds from Fleebay,
also got a pocket lamp from a friend with 10 Leds in it.
I also managed it, to burn all 10 Leds out at once at the torch with a experiment,
so i did replace all old Leds with this Superbright one.
But now the Leds dont wanna light with ie 30 mA anymore,
they need more Current to start to light, even not more Voltage.

So, it seems there are different Leds out, some with a higher breakdown Voltage,
and superbright may does not mean supergood.
It may sum up when you connect a lot from them in parallel or serie

[NickZ]

Another advantage of the BwJt circuit is that you can connect it to 1.5, 6, or 12 volts sources, without burning up the transistor or other components.
I think that the capacitor is the filter that keeps the higher voltage from frying the parts.
In the video he is showing the difference in draw is only just a couple of milliamps between using 1.5 v, or 12v. I don't know if it would work the same without the exact same configuration though.
‪Hartley Oscillator Replication‬‏ - YouTube

[NickZ]

Joit:
Yes, very true about the difference in Leds. They are all different, giving different light intensity as well as different colors, and energy consumption rates. I personally don't care to much for the type of light that is emitted by Leds. The exception are the warm whites.
Building your own led light module or panel and combining colors and leds types, as with using the flat top wide angle leds, is the best way to get just the kind of light that suits your tastes. Pots as dimmers on the circuit help a lot, as well as to also conserve the battery output. These circuits can also be connected to the grid power, though ac-dc adaptors. Leaving the batteries charged for emergency use only.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I tried a hartley circuit on the 12 volts, with the same 104 cap and a that same smaller ferrite bead toroid with 24 gauge.
I used 18 parallel warm white hat top leds in parallel across the emitter/negative or bifilar coil as prof. Jones showed his circuit.
It lights up the leds to I'd say 85% brightness compared to them plugged into the wall and draws 50 milliamps. So it is a little less bright, though it seems to be more efficient.
I'll try and tweak it some more to try and get full brightness at the lowest input.
It seems as long as I place the leds directly across the primary coil, no heat builds up in the transistor, when the leds are in parallel.
If I try the leds in series, it gets hot and draws more juice.
At least it's another alternative to make use of these 12 volt sla's.
peace love light
tyson

[NickZ]

SW:
Steven's circuit only used one led, not 70 of them, the trick is in using the coils secondary to help in controlling the draw factor. Remember also about the inductor on the negative rail. It may help make the leds brighter.
When using a 12 volt source, efficiency is not as important as having the full brightness. I find that the only way to get the 100% led light intensity is by giving them the CURRENT that they need, and not just voltage. I just wanted you to see how the circuit can be connected to 12 volts, unlike what we had done before when using the normal Jtc. I think that the capacitor is the main difference in limiting the draw. Also try the 103, and others as well, especially the blue ones, 472 etz...
I'm going in the direction of solar panel to battery and direct to the Leds, but with this BwJt really dropping the draw, and further extending the battery charge, this might still be very useful circuit to include.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, well this is a little surprising, or maybe not.
I decided to try and run the leds direct to the 12 volt sla and it is working well. The thing is, it is working better than I expected.
I scrounged together 32 of the warm white flat top leds and placed them in series/parallel, 8 groups of 6 leds in series and each group of 6 series leds placed in parallel with the 12 volt battery.
Then I used a 50 ohm resistor on the input line and then used a volt meter across the resistor to determine amperage through circuit.
It is drawing 22.5 milliamps or 283 milliwatts.
What is surprising is that the 32 leds compared to the string of 20 leds plugged into the wall is very close in light output, I'd say 85-90%.
Maybe this is completely normal for these type of leds, though maybe in this series/parallel configuration, it becomes very efficient.
Let me know what you folks think of this.
peace love light
tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Meant to say 8 groups of 4 leds in series.

[NickZ]

SW:
When connecting the leds direct to a battery the leds should draw the standard amount of rated current, it should not make a difference to do what you did. I would think that there is a measurement error instead.
In order to test this can you connect the 32 leds to the BwJt circuit and see how long a single AA last? It might give something to compare with.
Like I said before the full brightness of the leds will not be seen by connecting them to a Jtc. And once you see the FULL light intensity, it's hard to go back. I'm using some leds that use 6 volts, and they are so bright, my eyes can't even stand to look at them for a 1/2 a second.
Just like looking at the sun, it takes several minutes to recuperate my sight.

I have asked Steven Jones to test his circuit by simply connecting it to a new AA battery, and to let us know how long it lasts. I guess that was just to easy, and they wanted to try something much more complicated, instead. But, that is the ONLY test I even half trust. If the circuit really has 8 times OU, it would mean that for every AA that was used, it would yield 8 AAs worth of light. Which I rather doubt. Although a real self-runner would give even more than that. Time will tell on that one.

Someone once made the comment that with his low micro watt readings the BwJt circuit at that draw on a single AA, should last 22 years. But it doesn't...
I don't trust the meter or scope reading with these circuits. As I see all the Jtc that I have ever made still discharge the battery in just a few days. some people are getting the long duration times by dropping the led to barely visible, or blinking. I don't see the point of a very dim led light just to prove that the circuit lasts. If so, just turn the pot back to no resistance level and watch the battery drop. One thing is to light a single led, but connect 70 like Kooler did, and say the same thing.
In any case if you see that you are getting good result with the 32 warm whites, then stay with that set-up, sounds like a good way to go.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi nickz, thanks for the reply.
Yes I think I'll be staying with this direct setup for now.
It's direct dc, Isn't it standard procedure to use a resistor in line and measure the voltage across that resistor divided by 50 ohms in my case to determine current draw.
It seems to correlate with the battery voltage drop over time so far, so I don't think it's an error.
Unless you have another suggestion to measure this setup.
I'm fairly impressed at the light output I'm getting for only 283 milliwatts, it may be completely normal light levels for this configuration and if it is not, then the only explanation I would have is that somehow when I used these leds in pulse mode from the oscillators, that they became conditioned somehow.
Let me know what you think, or another way to verify this low wattage input.
peace love light
tyson

[NickZ]

I'm not real up on this but I think that you read the voltage between a one ohm resistor. I've never had to to that. In the overunity.com forum on the Dr. Steven Jone thread they are talking about that now. You might want to check that out. But the main thing is that you are happy with the results.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi nickz, thanks for the reply. I ran the leds all night and the voltage only dropped slightly, so I think I trust the 22.5 milliamps input.
Here is a pic of them running.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

peace love light
tyson

[NickZ]

SW:
Wow, that's a lot of light for that small amount of draw. Hard to beat that.
I find that the leds like about 4 volts or so, but I'm not sure how to measure the draw, on straight DC. I don't use a resistor, like you do. Those flat tops are easy to burn, so I limit it to 4v.

[totoalas]

Hi SW
thats impressive
Is the resistor 1 w???
Good for fluro tube replacement
Board for easy maintenance
so just to verify
8 groups in parallel each group 4 in series?
12 v is good for home lighting purposes
cheers

totoalas

[SkyWatcher]

Hi nickz, thanks for the reply.
Yes it is a surprising amount of light for 283 milliwatts, I don't know if it's the series/parallel configuration, the type of leds they are or the leds have become conditioned somehow from the pulsing they've been exposed to.
Each led is getting around 3.125 volts.

Hi totoalas, thanks for the reply.
It's a 10 watt, 50 ohm resistor.
Correct, 8 groups all in parallel, each group has 4 leds in series.
Yes, this outperforms my fluorescent setups.
I checked the battery voltage today, I've been lighting the bathroom up for 2 days at night, probably 20 hours total so far and the battery went from 12.37 to 12.34 volts and is now drawing 19 milliamps due to lower battery voltage, though still very good light output.
peace love light
tyson