super simple super efficient capacitive radiant pulse charger..

[shubhamforme]

super simple ,super efficient capacitive radiant pulse charger..---

this is a very simple capacitive negative pulse charger,designed with handfull of components, it is designed to be very simple so that any one can make it at home and it is very cheap in components cost....

this charger is designed to work with direct 220volts in asia or 110v in usa..

this is a negative pulse charger--
1.it will desulphate the batteried which are being charged with it
2.batteries which does not hold a charge will be recharged again and will be back to life..such as nimh,nicd,lead acid etc..
3.it is very very efficient takes very less power and can be more than 95% in efficiency...
4.can be made so small that it can be fixed in a cell phone charger box,or so big that it can recharge your entire battery banks ,such as battery banks in golf cart or battery banks in your solar homes etc...

every one should try it once.....

[gyula]

Hi,

It is ok that you included the important notice of attaching the charger to the battery first and THEN plug it into the mains but it still can be dangerous to use for an average Joe...

If you divide the input capacitor 150nF into two at the mains input so that BOTH input mains wire would include a series capacitor (instead of the present single one), then your charger would become safer to use. Say you use two 270nF or 330nF capacitors in series in each of the mains input wires, then the charger would be galvanically separated from the mains and be much less dangerous to use it.

The ultimate solution for safety would be to use an isolating transformer of course but this would increase volume and weight of your charger for sure. The two series capacitors may already bring a good enough safety usage.

Gyula

[shubhamforme]

Gyula thx for your reply

yes it is true a capacitor added in series to both the input wires will help in making the circuit better....
thx again

[nueview]

my personnel thought would be that two caps on the input line would impede charging as were does aditional energy enter the system from then.

other than this it looks fine to me it is similar to what i was doing with a relay and see you are keeping the positive potential present across the battery all the time good work and best wishes to you.
Martin

[shubhamforme]

my personnel thought would be that two caps on the input line would impede charging as were does aditional energy enter the system from then.

other than this it looks fine to me it is similar to what i was doing with a relay and see you are keeping the positive potential present across the battery all the time good work and best wishes to you.
Martin

thx for your reply martin

[nueview]

no thank you
i am not the best when it comes to circuit construction and i am glad to see someone make better use of information i worked hard to learn.
i wonder if this could be done for a solar panel operating at lower input voltage?
or just boost the voltage to the input first.
i really love the simplicity of what you did.
old addage keep it simple.
Martin

[ewizard]

Thanks for the circuit as I have some stubborn sulfated batteries I'd like to try it on. It might also be good to point out that if you use (in the U.S. anyway) the right side of an AC 120 volt receptacle for the input (so the plug wire you use goes to the right side of the receptacle or the smaller hole) to the side of your circuit with the capacitor inline with it then it will inherently be a little safer as that is the 'hot' side of the circuit and the left hole is the grounded side. I'm not really 100% certain this will make it safer but having a cap inline with the hot side (which I know is the right side on correctly wired outlets in the U.S.) makes sense to me.

[nueview]

it should also be noted that at 60 hz 22micro farad is 1 amp flow rate so 11yf would be .5 amp just for quick reference when we did it we used .1 yf
Martin

[gyula]

it should also be noted that at 60 hz 22micro farad is 1 amp flow rate so 11yf would be .5 amp just for quick reference when we did it we used .1 yf
Martin

Hi Martin,

In the shown schematic the current that effectively charges the battery (and rejuvenates it due to the pulsed nature of operation) is not directly taken from the mains but from the 5uF capacitor just after the diode bridge. The SCR in series with the battery can only fire (i.e. pass current to the battery) whenever the voltage level in the 5uF reaches the neon bulb ON voltage, say 65V. When this happens the 5uF capacitor is directly discharges into the battery, the current taken during this discharge is what charges the battery. The 5uF capacitor starts charging again from the mains voltage via the diode bridge and the process starts again. This means that the two 270nF or 330nF capacitors in series with the mains input wires do not significantly influence the amplitude of the charging current (the two in series gives nearly the original 150nF and this value influences how quickly the 5uF puffer cap recharges to reach again the neon bulb's ON voltage).

What you mention above with respect to the 22uF capacitor passing 1A current at 60Hz mains frequency comes from the fact that a 22uF cap has nearly 120 Ohm capacitive reactance and the reactive current flowing through has 1A value from a 120V AC mains. (XC=1/2*Pi*f*C and I=V/XC)

Hope this helps.

Gyula

[nueview]

i do not always do all the math as i like to focus on the process a bit more but i spent the time working with this yesterday and looked up some neon lights and got to thinking about what is being done as the circuit operates and if the current is properly set so that the neon across the capacitor is a 95 volt and will fire equal to the current of the cap on the incoming line this would keep the caps from overcharging if no battery is present and then use a 65 volt trigger for the SCR dump varying the capacitance could then set a battery resonant frequency for different sizes of batteries.
yup i like this circuit more and more.
Martin