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Look,
there are knowledgeable errors in the PDF,
you admit it is a work in progress of course,
but it is a starting point and grouping of info matters.
Lets start with facts,
there are no anodes and cathodes in AC implementations,
unless there is a riding carrier on a DC bias acknowledged.
So please stop doing that first.
Next, there has been absolutely no information concerning two things:
1 - Were are the neutral mains and L1/L2 mains connected ?
2 - Where is this second upper frequency (8X) comming from ?
There are (at least) 16 other errors,
lets deal with these two first please...
Well, I heard back on the 500 ml can and it's diameter is 65mm, which is 2.5 inches. Our American beer and pop cans are also 2.5 inches. He says that our cans are not long enough to make the 60 hz vibration. I don't know whether it will work the same or not, but our American cans will fit over one another and make a tube as long as needed of 150mm or 5.9 inches. It may affect the tone by fitting them together like that, but I'm going to give it a go and see what happens.
I have a better translating service now and got a very clear and concise mail from my contact today which has been added to the current Sept. 24 pdf file.
Last edited by Slovenia; 09-24-2011, 08:05 PM.
Reason: Added Pic
The inside diameter of the ring can be determined easily since we have the required gap for European and US model boilers. We also know the diameter of the can to be 65mm.
You still need to calculate the circumference so that you'll be able to determine how much metal you'll need for your ring and how much overage you need to add for your attachment point for your stabilizer and electrical connection.
Circumference = 3.14 X diameter
European Circumference = 3.14 X 69.2mm = 217.288mm (8.6") = Length of Ring (You'll Need To Factor Extra Material In For Connection)
American Circumference = 3.14 X 68.45mm = 214.933mm (8.5") = Length of Ring (You'll Need To Factor Extra Material In For Connection)
Last edited by Slovenia; 09-25-2011, 01:44 AM.
Reason: Added More Info.
Slovenia,
Its great to hear you have the "translation " roadblock taken care of!
I have been francit lately trying to keep the wolves from taking my house away!
Taking a lot of my time as well as really messing with my Head!
Seems like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel tho!
Thank you for persevering with this ,Perhaps this will be the one ?
Peeps keeps asking where the wires go ,I hope you can see it now peeps?
The big bolt on the Ring and the big Bolt on the back of the can??
Great to hear from you. If we can get this boiler to work, you won't have to worry about the wolves no more. You'll be able to live where ever you want and drive whatever you want.
Anyway, this project has been fun. I stumbled into this contact while trying to find out about Peter Davey and this sounded like a much better alternative than the Davey device since this guy said his device worked well and he'd share everything about it with me. So, even though this thread is a Peter Davey Query thread, I've changed my emphasis completely away from Davey. I don't care about Davey's sonic boiler any more. I've never heard of anyone getting the Davey device to work properly and according to my contact the Serbian boiler will do a lot more than boil water. For one thing, it will make a lot of hydrogen if tuned correctly and a few electronic accessories are added. Actually, I'm much more interested in the hydrogen aspect than the boiler scenario but I'm taking one thing at a time. He's showing me how to make the boiler and if I can get that done right I'm sure he'll take me to the next level. If I can't get that done right, we're probably done. So, I need everyone's help and not a lot of crap from the side lines.
Thanks for your support Chet!! It has helped me continue to share with the others even though I didn't feel like it for a while.
Slovenia,
Its great to hear you have the "translation " roadblock taken care of!
I have been francit lately trying to keep the wolves from taking my house away!
Taking a lot of my time as well as really messing with my Head!
Seems like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel tho!
Thank you for persevering with this ,Perhaps this will be the one ?
Peeps keeps asking where the wires go ,I hope you can see it now peeps?
The big bolt on the Ring and the big Bolt on the back of the can??
I might add I'm jealous that your getting to play with this and anxious to get caught up and "do the Tune".
My gut tells me this will make HHO also with some mods.
and it just so happens that Gordon posted a very good example of this earlier!
{WaterEnergy1 vid]
This device [Mr.C's]touches so many previous claims on stupendous heat and HH0 production using "mains" and mysterious frequency.I also like the input exnihiloest gave at OUR that it would take "pressure everywhere" to do this.
Seeing what the pistol shrimp can do to the water molecules with "pressure"
I agree!!!!! Pressure !!
The bug [pistol shrimp] gets the water up to 9000 degrees with his pressure event in a "Flash" [sonoluminescence].
That would be nice.........
I believe we will be learning some new things here!
I am excited to play with this and so happy you have Mr.C to assist![that part is Priceless]
Don't worry about it. You can make your own by putting together two American 12 oz pop cans or beer cans. They just slide right together to give you the 150mm of length you need for this project. They sound great too. I haven't tuned mine to 60 hz yet, but tomorrow I'll make an attempt to do so.
The assembled cans are only proof of concept to show the cans will fit together. The can assembly should be 2.5" base can and 4" top can.
Last edited by Slovenia; 09-25-2011, 08:28 PM.
Reason: updated pics
If you are going to be stacking American cans to make your own 150mm/5.9" can, I have a few suggestions for you.
1.) Make the bottom can your receiving can. The top can will fit into it about .5".
2.) For the upper can to fit into the lower can with no difficulty, you'll need to have a slightly beveled edge on the base of the upper can. This can be accomplished by cutting the top out of a can and leaving a slight inward bevel of about 1/8". The beveled part will then fit into the base can with ease without deforming it or the top can. The top can needs to be stuck into the receiving can approximately .5" for a good secure fit. Take care not to deform the open sided top of the can while pressing the cans together.
3.) The top can needs to be substantially longer than the bottom can so that it's vibrating ability is not compromised. I'd make the base can 2.5" and the top can 4" and cut the top can accordingly as you tune the assembly. Don't make the assembly shorter than 150mm.
4.) Only sand the outer top edge of the can. Sand it as thin as necessary and that is supposed to be very thin. It's supposed to be a tapered sanding with a very sharp edge at the top of the can. The can is thin metal anyway, so this is going to be interesting.
Last edited by Slovenia; 09-25-2011, 12:27 PM.
Reason: Added More Instructions
He says the thickness of the ring should be right at .2mm and that the width of the material should be right at 5mm. The inside diameter of the ring should be 68.45mm for US and 69.2mm for Europe.
Good job. I have to get my ring started today. My contact wants to see the finished deal now.
I think we can make a quick prototype ring out of steel can material. It will be expedient to acquire and easy to cut and form to the proper specifications. Right now I need to have something I can show pronto. Steel tin can material doesn't work. Maybe copper will.
P.S.: When you make a taller can by joining to shorter cans it does effect the over all structure of the assembly. It puts a bind in the area where the two cans are joined and prevents the can from vibrating properly in that area. There is a resonance in the can though that is good. I'll continue to play with it since I haven't been able to acquire a 500 ml beer can yet.
Last edited by Slovenia; 09-25-2011, 05:40 PM.
Reason: Added Something
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