Peter Daysh Davey Water Heater Query

[Slovenia]

Very Nice Cut!!!

That's a very nice cut you have going there. What tool did you use to get it? Thanks!!

Just like you said "S"
Sweet !

[RAMSET]

Diablo blade from home depot 1mm width 4 1/2 inch cuts too fast........
I'll get use to it ,placed a hose clamp around the tube for a guide

Back to the shop Gotta stretch a ring

[Slovenia]

Nice!!

Very impressive Chet. I would have messed the cut up with that tool. You are very good. That tool takes no prisoners.

[RAMSET]

1 MM ring gap

My stretcher is not big enough for this size ring
The ring I made is 1mm oversize .5 gap gotta rig up a shim so I can stretch it
I'm done for tonight .

I have to get some shim material .......

Manana!

Chet
PS
Last one in is a rotten egg
I'm gonna kick your But ...........
Last guy in the water buys dinner tomorrow!!
Lets do this Bro!!

[Slovenia]

Your Gap Between Tubes

Hi Chet,

Your gap is great!! The one between your tubes. You must have used spacers. I got in a hurry and didn't use the spacers and my gap is not sweet. Nice pics!!

Your enthusiasm is catching.

P.S.: Did you see Mr. "C"s new boiler he shared this evening? It's interesting indeed.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

[cornfused]

The new boiler

Slovenia,
The new boiler looks interesting! Is the arched cap over the top of the can a ring or more like a "lid"? and the blue line? Im sure you will share when you get more information. The other night i was messing with trying to make my own "can" out of .010" stainless shim stock. It can be done, but will have to "brake" afew lips on it like you do your rings to get it to hook and stay round. I think a person could then slide an aluminum can into the stainless sheath and pop rivit that in place. I am still trying to tune my can, will report when I get some good results. please tell Mr. C Thanks for shareing all of this with us!
Regards.. JAson

[cornfused]

Oh yea Slovenia.
Did Mr C send any instruction with the tone generator? as in what sample rate he reccommends or one,two or three tones while tuning?
Thanks! Jason

[Ares123]

Hi S.

No I was out , I am not online every day, so excuse me to seem that way.
I see that you are in serious job , i am impressed with your work.

I am sceptic only on part of tunning, because even untuned boiler will work, but i really doubt this is cop of 1 let alone >1 whitout proper tuning.

Also one note with sanding can - you must do that with bolt - holder in place exactly setup will look in action because if you tune can whitout , frequency will change.

So that is my matter with al that "misters" around here There are no exact true specifications and math behind calculations. And specs changes all the time.

What is the gap between top and can in last MR.C scheme? And what is diameter of it.

Ikea flask - That one who have workable version should just tell exactly point of cutting and sanding it.

Ramset - as pointed out sanding is delicate job and tunning can take days, so I dont see shortcuts even at Ikea flask, except if cut at proper size does exact tunning.

As i said All setups will work without tunning so is easily mistaken with that that setup has cop >1.

I have no pictures, i have no working(in tune all parts ) When I will get there will post exact specifcations to do it.

Here you have one proper tool
to question revealed measures.
Also keep in mind temperature changes. And discover at witch temp and freq is ring 5mm (multiplied or divided by 10)

Resonances of open air columns

Ares123 (What's Up??)

What happened to you? Don't hit and run.

And you wanted us to drop Mr. "C" & Mr. IKEA. That was craziness.

[Slovenia]

Skeptic

Hi Ares123,

I'm glad you responded back to my post. I do understand skepticism. I have been chasing a dream of over unity for ten years but up until now nobody shared all the details with me to get me there. As you say, we have several different things going on at the same time and this can be confusing if you are not following us closely. Also, each of the two projects is different enough to cause some confusion. As for sharing, we have two separate individuals sharing details and they went about their experiments quite differently. I would say you are a very sharp fellow, and that is working against you with regard to this project. There is some math involved with both these devices that is very difficult and would confound many on this thread and so it has not been shared. Mr. "C" knows the math and has agreed to even do it for someone if they have problems with their setups. We are not wanting to get bogged down with the theory related to why and how these devices work. We just want to build some proof of concept boilers to prove the concept and get more guys interested in these devices. With regard to Mr. "C" stuff, he has shared all we need to know to make a device like his. His exact technique for sanding he hasn't shared, but he has said he spends two hours a day for many days sanding and tapering his beer can, with the finest sand paper he can get, to get it to the most fine tune of 50 Hz he can get. We don't have any further details on the latest boiler of Mr. "C" other than what was just posted. You are the first to comment on that latest boiler, so up to now it has been forgotten and I am busy competing with Chet to get my IKEA boiler in the water first. So, I am very busy indeed. Mr. "C" has agreed to help us if we need help and so far we have not asked him for any further help. We are still trying to figure out how to apply all he has shared without troubling him to much. As for Mr. IKEA, he has not shared a lot yet but has promised to share more if we'll get his device in the water and attempt to make good with the experiment. I understand this. It is easy to be a skeptic at this forum, because you can see so many people studying so many different devices and in the final analysis most of them are dropped without successful replications after a short time never to be studied again. As you can see, we have many serious guys studying these devices and trying to replicate them. Most of us are seasoned soldiers in this effort and we believe in this device. We believe in the people who have shared with us. We are working together well and have much expertise between ourselves to insure this project comes to a good conclusion. There are at least four of us building these devices out in the open where you can see what we are doing and we are sharing and will share what we see and find out by trial and error. We want this project to be successful and are each giving a lot of time and effort to insure this fact. We also work well together and compare notes before making stupid decisions. We don't have all the particulars on the IKEA boiler yet, but I'm sure we will have that soon.

Anyway, thanks for getting back to me. We would like you to join in and help us. There are many ways for you to do this. We are working with different arrangements for hanging the rings and adjusting them as well as methods for holding the IKEA flask in an inverted manner. Because the IKEA flask is being held inverted into the reservoir, it is going to require some different design parameters for adjusting and holding the ring. The IKEA will probably have to be part of an assembly with everything adjustable and self contained before it goes in the water. A one piece completed assembly that drops into the water if you understand me. We are still working out the design kinks on some of these things and could use some help. The more good ideas the better. Right now we need help not skeptics. You will see the results you are seeking soon. We will publicize all this when we have the details and are happy with them.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

Hi S.

No I was out , I am not online every day, so excuse me to seem that way.
I see that you are in serious job , i am impressed with your work.

I am sceptic only on part of tunning, because even untuned boiler will work, but i really doubt this is cop of 1 let alone >1 whitout proper tuning.

Also one note with sanding can - you must do that with bolt - holder in place exactly setup will look in action because if you tune can whitout , frequency will change.

So that is my matter with al that "misters" around here There are no exact true specifications and math behind calculations. And specs changes all the time.

What is the gap between top and can in last MR.C scheme? And what is diameter of it.

Ikea flask - That one who have workable version should just tell exactly point of cutting and sanding it.

Ramset - as pointed out sanding is delicate job and tunning can take days, so I dont see shortcuts even at Ikea flask, except if cut at proper size does exact tunning.

As i said All setups will work without tunning so is easily mistaken with that that setup has cop >1.

I have no pictures, i have no working(in tune all parts ) When I will get there will post exact specifcations to do it.

Here you have one proper tool
to question revealed measures.
Also keep in mind temperature changes. And discover at witch temp and freq is ring 5mm (multiplied or divided by 10)

Resonances of open air columns

[Slovenia]

Instruction for tone generator

Hi Jason,

No, he didn't send any. He usually waiting for me to ask specific questions before he goes into deeper detail. I will ask him for you. He usually gets back to me very quickly.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

Oh yea Slovenia.
Did Mr C send any instruction with the tone generator? as in what sample rate he reccommends or one,two or three tones while tuning?
Thanks! Jason

[Slovenia]

New Boiler of Mr. "C"

Hi Jason,

I don't have any details on the new boiler other than what was shown in the diagram. I am very sure the cover for the can in the diagram is a cap as you call it with multiple functions such as but not limited to neutral electrode with a better way of tuning in the exact gap. The blue line is the water level I think. It would appear to be. Mr. "C" checks out follows this thread really closely, so you can thank him personally on this thread for what he has shared if you like. He'll appreciate that very much. I'll also thank him for you.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

Slovenia,
The new boiler looks interesting! Is the arched cap over the top of the can a ring or more like a "lid"? and the blue line? Im sure you will share when you get more information. The other night i was messing with trying to make my own "can" out of .010" stainless shim stock. It can be done, but will have to "brake" afew lips on it like you do your rings to get it to hook and stay round. I think a person could then slide an aluminum can into the stainless sheath and pop rivit that in place. I am still trying to tune my can, will report when I get some good results. please tell Mr. C Thanks for shareing all of this with us!
Regards.. JAson

[Ares123]

Thank You S.
You are a good person.
Thank you for sharing all with us.

I will calm my sceptic inside and try to help with my findings.
When there be some more.

Two stages are important - tuning can and ring to exact mechanical resonance.
So there is question is just cutting Ikea flask enough becouse it seems a lot more work to proper tune stainless than can?

B.R.

[Slovenia]

Ares123

Hi Ares123,

Mr. "C" just replicated a US version of his boiler and had to make some changes from his original design to make it work properly. He had some problems too. He had to change the dimensions of the US ring to 10mm height/width instead of the 5mm dimension he had been used to using for Europe. When the can is tuned properly the ring is supposed to make it ring at 300 Hz in US but he was only able to get it to ring at 320 which is close but not quite what he wanted to do. He kept telling us that the most important thing was to make sure the can was tuned properly before proceeding to the next phase of the project. He said he spent two hours a day for many days tuning his can until he got it perfectly tuned. He said he sanded his can by hand with the finest grade sand paper he could get. He always refers to putting a taper on his can.

With regard to the IKEA flask, we don't have to much information yet. Our contact wants our flasks in the water to show we are really serious, and then he has promised to guide us. We don't know what his recommended ring arrangement is and/or how he sands the flask either. Anyway, we will get some flasks in the water today for a preliminary test and hopefully we will get some more instruction soon.

Thanks for sharing on this thread. You are a very smart guy. We can use your expertise here on this thread. We are very serious replicators here and plan to show you some good results very soon.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

Thank You S.
You are a good person.
Thank you for sharing all with us.

I will calm my sceptic inside and try to help with my findings.
When there be some more.

Two stages are important - tuning can and ring to exact mechanical resonance.
So there is question is just cutting Ikea flask enough becouse it seems a lot more work to proper tune stainless than can?

B.R.

[daemonbart]

Acoustic shortcut??

In my dreams one thing hit me! As an old hobby sound engineer I came to dream about problems with acoustic shortcut, this happens when speaker elements are not placed in baffle or box!

The moving air from cone in speaker, damping the other side of cone because the lenght from one side to another is shorter than sound wavelength!

Maybe we should also look for methods to isolate one side of boiler element from the other??

Just an input I was hit by!

Best regards D

[Slovenia]

Dreams

Hi Daemonbart,

I wish I had those dreams you get. You get some great information in those dreams. Thanks for sharing that.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

In my dreams one thing hit me! As an old hobby sound engineer I came to dream about problems with acoustic shortcut, this happens when speaker elements are not placed in baffle or box!

The moving air from cone in speaker, damping the other side of cone because the lenght from one side to another is shorter than sound wavelength!

Maybe we should also look for methods to isolate one side of boiler element from the other??

Just an input I was hit by!

Best regards D