Here's the new tube. Reckon I'll need about 32pF caps. much more workable
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Originally posted by jimboot View PostHere's the new tube. Reckon I'll need about 32pF caps. much more workable
33pF exists as a standard capacitor value: that should be close enough. When the coil's self-capacitance is taken into account, you'll probably need a smaller value like 22, 12, or 10.
My voltage was far to low for a spark gap to function, so you can get away with skipping that part and just try to light an LED. Please show a picture of the output voltage while it's running the LED (all my pictures were using 1 red LED as the load which capped the circuit at 1.5V max with no light being produced).
I'm working on the Let's Replicate article about this idea, so having your permission to post these pictures and your results as replications would be awesome.Last edited by LetsReplicate; 12-04-2011, 05:25 PM.
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Moray
Hi gang. Don't do much posting, but would just like to advise everyone to read up on
'Henry Moray'. His story is one of the more convincing one's that I have ever yet read.
His system was putting out several kilowatts of power just using small wires.
It was as though the energy was flowing OUTSIDE of the wires.
He could even cut the antenna wire, and by holding the cut ends against opposite sides of a piece of a glass,the
power was still there. Yes it had many similar aspects to this device we are now working on.
I think it would serve our purpose best if we'd just forget about MOST conventional theories which only confuse people.
On another note:
For those wanting an easy method of varying the inductance of a coil.
Attach a shorted turn of wire (1 inch or so in dia.) to a piece of stick and also get a piece of ferrite core from an old AM radio.
Bringing the shorted turn close to the top or bottom of the coil, will reduce it's inductance.
Inserting the ferrite rod into either end of the coil will increase inductance.
Have fun replicating!
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Originally posted by LetsReplicate View PostGiven the size of your tube, that's probably the closest anyone is going to get to the specification. Do you have the rest of the circuit done?
33pF exists as a standard capacitor value: that should be close enough. When the coil's self-capacitance is taken into account, you'll probably need a smaller value like 22, 12, or 10.
My voltage was far to low for a spark gap to function, so you can get away with skipping that part and just try to light an LED. Please show a picture of the output voltage while it's running the LED (all my pictures were using 1 red LED as the load which capped the circuit at 1.5V max with no light being produced).
I'm working on the Let's Replicate article about this idea, so having your permission to post these pictures and your results as replications would be awesome.
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I would say the key is in the antenna
In an email Matt sent me 3 days ago, he said he had a presentation with the circuit for this weekend at some college in South Carolina. While rereading everyones posts I would like to say, and I don't know why or how it works, but the capacitor rating really does only reach a certain voltage and then you get no additional charge. I also noticed that it wasn't mentioned here that a 1/4 wave antenna works best as matt described to me. He said that current was actually wasted energy. So by increasing the Q factor of the antenna is when I noticed the large increases in current. The heat from the transformer helps increase the coupled antenna's receiving power. When I removed my radioactive material the current dropped to mV again. I did a little research and found an interesting article
Nearfield coupling and tuned circuits
With how he described the antenna to me, this is how I would say it is functioning so efficiently. The article talks about using additional AC current, but somehow the proximity of the transformer to the antenna either increases or decreases the current like the article talks about without the addition of an external AC current.
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Originally posted by Seth0103 View PostIn an email Matt sent me 3 days ago, he said he had a presentation with the circuit for this weekend at some college in South Carolina. While rereading everyones posts I would like to say, and I don't know why or how it works, but the capacitor rating really does only reach a certain voltage and then you get no additional charge. I also noticed that it wasn't mentioned here that a 1/4 wave antenna works best as matt described to me. He said that current was actually wasted energy. So by increasing the Q factor of the antenna is when I noticed the large increases in current. The heat from the transformer helps increase the coupled antenna's receiving power. When I removed my radioactive material the current dropped to mV again. I did a little research and found an interesting article
Nearfield coupling and tuned circuits
With how he described the antenna to me, this is how I would say it is functioning so efficiently. The article talks about using additional AC current, but somehow the proximity of the transformer to the antenna either increases or decreases the current like the article talks about without the addition of an external AC current.
...I find it somewhat funny that this information doesn't come from the inventor or his supporters until after I've already mentioned it.
In fact, did anyone else notice how Seth0103 didn't even exist until after mcombatti was challenged regarding nobody having a working one?
There is another blaring plot-hole in this post however: mcombatti has specified that he transformer NEEDS to be resonant to 5.4Mhz which is confirmed by this post yet he provided a link to a transformer with so much inductance that it would be IMPOSSIBLE. Well, that, and 5.4Mhz does NOT radiate "as heat" because it can only CAUSE heat when it strikes a surface. Radiant heat is a MUCH higher frequency of light that could not possibly be salvaged by the antenna (most especially if I has a high Q) because the inductance is FAR too high.
So sorry to dust off a meme here, but:
Oh, and by the way, according to Tesla (this can verified in court records and it true according to physics): CURRENT can be recovered with near 100% efficiency from EMF, VOLTAGE is primarily wasted energy because the charge doesn't move, it is only a DESIRE to move and has 0 momentum.
Negative Resistor – Ion bottle. | Let's Replicate: the article is not done yet, and I'm trying to be fair to the idea in the event that it turns out to be functional.
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@letsreplicate - to be fair Matt did give an external link to pix of some of his setups. He also gave out his email & has a presence online at several social media properties unrelated to this research but his own businesses. Typically not the behaviour of a hoaxer. Yes I did notice Seth is a new member I'm prepared to keep working on this & give Matt the benefit of the doubt as I don't know any better It's a relatively simple & inexpensive one for me to fool around with and I'm learning a few things along the way.. like how to drill a hole in a glass jar
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Originally posted by jimboot View Post@letsreplicate - to be fair Matt did give an external link to pix of some of his setups. He also gave out his email & has a presence online at several social media properties unrelated to this research but his own businesses. Typically not the behaviour of a hoaxer. Yes I did notice Seth is a new member I'm prepared to keep working on this & give Matt the benefit of the doubt as I don't know any better It's a relatively simple & inexpensive one for me to fool around with and I'm learning a few things along the way.. like how to drill a hole in a glass jar
I still have this circuit set up with the bottles, and I'm still testing it. If Matt comes back and provides adequate information to finish building this device, or if Seth provides enough information to finish building this device then I will provide the PROOF the device works with the engineering mathematics to back up HOW WELL it works in a completely undeniably way. I will also provide idiot-proof instructions on how to build them (printed paper templates for coils help immensely) while ensuring all credit goes to Matt. It is not permitted in science for the inventor of a device provide proof that it works. Proof can only come from independent testing of replications. That is why Let's Replicate was created: it's an open source patent office that provides a means for testing and public feedback.
Seth has said many things that are highly questionable so far, this goes beyond simple lack of understanding and into the realm of possible fraud in my opinion. I suspect that he might be a troll. How did he magically get one working and producing 30kW without knowing anything about how to produce the coil to resonance? (he supposedly had the same information we got) How did he even manage to measure 22kV? (Test equipment doesn't go that high without expensive attachments) And why can he not provide any information that hasn't already been posted in the thread? (like the dimensions of the working coil, or a picture)
I can come off pretty harsh on these ideas because it is part of the scientific process. "Peer review" can seem rather cruel, but unless someone points out the holes in the bucket it so they can be plugged, the bucket will leak endlessly. The majority of my criticisms could have been avoided if functional pictures were more forthcoming. I've even been holding back on my criticisms because the other staff at Let's Replicate have asked me to "play nice"; I do get a little leeway though when it comes to inventors "withholding information" hence the steady increase in my hostility.
lol, I learned about glass drilling back when I was making the drying pump I designed to "test the existence of ORMEs"/"make gold from sea salt": failure to use turpentine resulted in the destruction of the lid to my thick glass jar.
Oh: I should note that the rotating spark gap does work. When I drive the circuit with a CFL (which induces at 60khz, not 21hz as claimed) to force light from the LED: minor variances in brightness can be seen as a result of the spark gap spinning: that means I didn't build it wrong, I'm just lacking the claimed receiving power (which is most likely due to there being no information on the antenna).
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Originally posted by LetsReplicate View PostNice! Is that a chip or a full unit?
My understating of all the old natural collection lighting systems is that they all ran on "arc lamps" (which a the same thing as a fluorescent light or photo tube). They can be run in a "no-current" (static electricity) system because they charge like a spark gap (they ARE a spark gap). Incandescent bulbs require power (heat dissipation) to run and it is unlikely that you'll have enough power to light at full intensity (because you really have exatly the same power as you started with, but you're compressing it into a spike. Even if you could light a conventional power bulb, you will be loosing most of the generated power because it will be on the other side of the bulb from the solar panel(s).
I would suggest using LEDs in series (take your HV spike voltage divided by the forward drop voltage of the LEDs, and more frequency = more light output) and then using another set of the same LEDs as the pickup. If you use a frequency of LED that is common in sunlight the receiving LEDs will receive both the sunlight and the flashes from the HV. My money would be on that working more than trying to light conventional bulbs and harvesting them. Plus: LEDs in bulk are cheap.
It's a good concept, I look forward to seeing your circuit and hopefully replicating it.
The type of bulbs I have been using (metal halide and high pressure sodium)are indeed arc lamps and the bulbs that I dream of lighting are 5000w, 10,000w and 20,000w xenon arc lamps, usually flashed using a capacitor.
My aim is to get the 600w bulbs to full brightness first and then get more ambitious.
LEDs are very efficient so that might be a way to go. However if this system will light a xenon bulb from a disposable camera whilst lighting a larger bulb, we can then have a self powering light with potential to produce OU with use of a solar panel.
I look forward to yourself and many others replicating this idea.
Update: Just checked my email and it has been posted today!!! Have emailed and asked for wiring diagram and component list.Last edited by soundiceuk; 12-05-2011, 12:10 PM.
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(Replication) Imhotep (kdkinen) Radiant CFL Oscillator and Self-Charging Circui
After some configuration, I managed to replicate the results of youtube user kdkinen, in his simplified Imhotep Radiant Oscillator circuit.
The videos are a bit rough, i apologize... my intention was to film the event, as it happened, without edits or delays.
After over 10 hours of running the circuit shown in Part Two, the voltage of the battery did not drop; if anything, it increased slightly.
Please ignore Part One, it was a fouled attempt at the circuit.
Thanks
KyleCarrington's Channel - YouTube----------------------------------------------------
Alberta is under attack... http://rethinkalberta.com/
Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P
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I just followed your links and then wired the circuit up with the HV return from the bulb to the battery.
Stuck my meter on the battery and your right it charges itself while running.
I also found that by moving the neo magnet around on the relay to increase the frequency increased the charge rate.
What we have here guys is a self charging light source that as the frequency increases the battery charges more. My battery was about 12.3v, so could do with a charge.
I saw 13v on the meter at certain points when I had the neo magnet in the right place.
Amazing stuff, role on tomorrow!!!
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Just beware battery voltage self recovery and and desulfation effects. Battery voltage does not = overall power and is very difficult to evaluate whether real power is being gained. Unless voltage rises a lot over a fairly short time period or you have a very discharged battery that comes up to full charge I'd avoid getting too excited.There is no important work, there are only a series of moments to demonstrate your mastery and impeccability. Quote from Almine
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Originally posted by ewizard View PostJust beware battery voltage self recovery and and desulfation effects. Battery voltage does not = overall power and is very difficult to evaluate whether real power is being gained. Unless voltage rises a lot over a fairly short time period or you have a very discharged battery that comes up to full charge I'd avoid getting too excited.
That's my 2c, anyway, as always I may be totally wrong!----------------------------------------------------
Alberta is under attack... http://rethinkalberta.com/
Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P
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Originally posted by SkyWatcher View PostSo I attached the plus and minus of the in series electrolytic capacitors to a string of 34 christmas leds and it charged even faster, not sure if it's just acting as a bigger antenna or the diodes have some effect.
Perhaps the it was just acting as an antenna picking up from your environment.
Originally posted by soundiceukHi, I'm not sure whether it has been done on a chip or not. I'm like a kid again waiting for Christmas!!!
The type of bulbs I have been using (metal halide and high pressure sodium)are indeed arc lamps and the bulbs that I dream of lighting are 5000w, 10,000w and 20,000w xenon arc lamps, usually flashed using a capacitor.
My aim is to get the 600w bulbs to full brightness first and then get more ambitious.
LEDs are very efficient so that might be a way to go. However if this system will light a xenon bulb from a disposable camera whilst lighting a larger bulb, we can then have a self powering light with potential to produce OU with use of a solar panel.
I look forward to yourself and many others replicating this idea.
@jimboot
Were you able to get a output from your ion bottle tests?
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