Dr Stiffler SEC Replications?

[Inquorate]

here's a simple rf field strength meter;
Simple RF Detectors
it has a very similar setup as the one I gave raui.

the benefit of the one with an L3 to av plug to ammeter is that it becomes directional (higher reading if L3 alligned to the perpendicular of the longitudinal compression waves (phonons) in the lattice), and we all know rf alone is not directional..


speaking of phonons.. did you know they may travel faster than light?
Heretical Builders

[Jules Tresor]

Hi Ben, congratulations for your latest video on PSEC with Panacea
That's nice to see someone trying hard to break the PSEC code I don't understand why Doc videos get only a few hundreds views while he shows LED lighting without battery !!!!!!!!!!!!
By the way, do you know the magic frequency ? I think mysterious Doc never gave this secret
I don't understand why he says in a video "this frequency is known since hundreds of years" ???????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!??????????
Anyway good luck Ben !

[Inquorate]

I have a hunch, it would depend on the total wire length if my suspicions are correct.

speed of light x (speed of quantum transmutation)² = 358.8 million m/s

using that as velocity, and coil length as the wavelength should give a frequency.

I believe it has something to do with a relationship to that. however, got 2 kids under 2 and haven't been able to verify anything yet. see link in above post by me.

peace :-)

[Slider2732]

I always believed it to be around 13MHz ?
Thanks for the RF detector page

After changing the circuit for tests to the one I made from the parts on the chassis of a CRT monitor, there was a surprising find. I'd completely presumed it to be less efficient than the other one i've been testing. However, using the very same 2 input plug and 1ohm resistor, the mV stated 2.5mV. Well, that's a tenth of the other circuit ! It would seem to mean 2.5mA.

I decided to take some readings of the 1.5V AA rechargeable that's presently running on the circuit.
So far, the time of reading and voltage reading are:
01:00 1.332V
01:45 1.328V
02:00 1.327V
03:15 1.318V
03:30 1.315V

In 2 1/2hrs it's used 17mV, if that helps ascertain power usage.

Component details - L1 says W20 on the top, L2 says W30 on the top, L3 is of approx 180 turns 26 gauge on a Radio Shack solder tube.
Transistor is a STS5343.
'473' capacitor on the power input.
RF beads are slightly shorter than those seen on real SEC 18's.
1N4148's to Base, 1Mohm resistor.
Large piece of aluminium connected to the RF bead and L1 connection.
There's no trim pot or trim cap on this one, but it strikes up easily enough by touching a piece of wire quickly across the aluminium plate and the Positive of the battery..

Here's the circuit (without load)

[NickZ]

I have practically given up trying to get good result from scrap parts, as even the 2n2222 is not the same as the MPSA06 that is used on this circuit.
I will do what I can in the meantime, but I see that even the slightest modification can result in a mayor change, of frequency, etz... And I've also noted that my circuit is not working very economically.
There is one thing that I'd like to ask, and that is that I feel that there is still a stronger output to the led(s) when they are placed in a direct wired connection to the transistor, as compared to the same led(s) receiving wireless output off of the L3. Do you get this same effect or results, or not?
Any ways, thanks Inquorate for the info sent, I'll study it with more time, that is what I needed to help tune, and add or shorten the coil winds, pigtails, etz...
Even the other previous RF type tester was showing how that simple Av plug, diode/cap set up, could show and obtain much more output strenght from an outside ground connection to house mains ground, L3 coils, and such, as compared to when using a direct meter connection to test with.
Interesting stuff...

[NickZ]

Was it not mentioned, to NOT try to tune to a fixed frequency, as that would depend on the coils, pigtails, and other factors, used in each case. But, to find the SRF of the first coil L1, and then tune the L2, and L3 to the same SRF, instead, so that they all matched. So then, the first thing would be to find the SRF of the first coil, and match any other coils to that same frequency range. Correct?

NickZ

[Inquorate]

one way to find out.

start making coils, learn to adjust the SRF and srf.

add another coil to the first. experiment with relationships between coil SRF and srf ratios.

report back what builds the highest rf field.

[NickZ]

I have been making coils but the tuning and especially the finding of the first coils SRF is the hardest part without all the proper gear. I think it would be easier or even the only way, to just buy the matched coils if that were possible, as in kit, if and when available, than to try to do this oneself. As it is more like hit and miss. Do you think that it's even possible to do it? As there has not been a replication of the PSEC that I know of? I'm probably not very informed though, of current experiments, and may need to be directed to those test results.
I see that some meters like the one that Slider has, have the ability to be used for reading the frequencies, as well. If those meters were to work, I might be able to look for one of those here, although it's not like shopping at Sears though.
What I've found by following some of the other guys is that L1 and L2 main coils can be wound on a toroid as well as other ferrite cores, or air cores, and the matching L3 attached off of the transistor C, or B circuits. This can be done without having a perfect resonant matching, and still obtain a fairly reasonably and useable result.
The PSEC is another thing, and that is what I may still have to further see how to resolve, for now, until, the right coils can simply be purchased. Or? What do you think, and is your advice? As that may never happen.
I'm waiting for my new transistors to be delivered, although the MPSA06 was not available here (bummer), and so I may have to have them brought from the US.
I have already made the simple RF output tested, and am working with it now, to tune for the highest output voltage of my coils.

I just read this again (link below), and thought that I'd add it here, as a "conduction current that stimulates a polarization current" is what is being developed by this devices. And in my personal opinion can also be used to create light from darkness as well, even without the use of Leds bulbs. This has been my life long dream...

single wire power transmission

[Inquorate]

there's not really a way around it; one requires at minimum, a signal generator and an oscilloscope. I'm still saving for a spectrum analyser...

I don't think anybody will ever sell a kit, but I've been wrong before :-)

[NickZ]

Yes, thanks for your honest reply, that is what the Doc had always mentioned.
So, I'll will do what I can as mentioned previously, at least some results can be obtained while hands on experiments continue. Some coil tuning can still be done through the use of a frequency tuning capacitor, and by adjusting pigtail, coil wire lenght, magnets to stimulate coils, and aluminum block placements. While at the same time watching the response from the tuning led.

[Slider2732]

That's all that i'm doing Nick.
Latest thing for me, is to fit the tuning resistor and cap on the CRT components based circuit. It goes between the L1 and 1 meg resistor.
Also, the use of a ferrite rod (after thinking about radio and having watched K4ZEP's latest vid on YouTube about the Gunderson patent).

Here's the vid I watched that furthered things: Gunderson another step forward. - YouTube

At the right places in the L3, you can see any external AV plug type LED brighten 3 or 4 times, as you move the ferrite within the coil. Matching with the little tuning pot increases brightness again.

Upshot, I went from 2.7mA used to 3.6mA, but gained a lot better output from this normally much lower output circuit and, with that, brighter LED's..all low tech visuals of course.
The 'Signal' meter setup (now with L3 on top) registers very well as the tuning is made. Mine's from an old hi-fi.
My scope (dual trace Protek 6502) seems to only display a sine wave and will be AC pick up I think, so will have to see if my old scope still works, to explore what's going on.

I fully agree with Inquorate and Dr. Stiffler's opinions about the test gear and it's likely.a reason the thread stalled before.
However, tunings in a general manner, with the circuit built in a general manner, is a big learning experience.

[NickZ]

And not only a big learning experience, there can be some good results as well.

Last night I was again up to all hours, working and tuning the device, which I'm constantly changing, and modifying, etz...
I tried a pnp 3906 equivalents that are very inexpensive and sold in a lot package of 15 or so, at RS for just a couple of dollars. To my surprise once I remembered to use opposite polarity, my system fired up, just fine, with wireless up to a foot or more away from the coils, and as much gain as ever.
When everything is working well the transistors runs stone cold, and output is maximized. I was only using about 2.5 to 3.5 volts.
It looks like that different source batteries produce very different results. My finger is on the transistors when testing new power sources, as that is my temp monitor.
I really feel that the homemade power cells are going to work just fine for this purpose as they can output any voltage even over 12v, but with little current. And it looks like current is not really needed on this device, and may even be detrimental. The higher the voltage used, the higher the signal gain that is obtained, as that looks to me like it is the "wattless polarization current", that activates the "snake biting its tail" effect.

I will add more Leds as soon as I can, as I'm very much convinced that the more of them are placed in series, especially using an inductor between the series groups, that the higher the voltage that can be pulled and obtained from the Latice. As the Load is also the key to higher output.

Slider: curious thing about the use of the ferrite rod, which I also use.
Last night I found that when the system is working very well, the rod has little effect on tuning, and even if pulled all the way out, will not do much to affect the brightness of the tuning led or Av plug led. But when the circuit is not optimally working the rod does help. I'll continue with the rod for now, as it is already in use and is also wound with an additional wire coil on it also (L4), that can be used by inductance to connect to other leds strings.

I'm relaying any ideas, and results, even if they are somewhat nominal for now.
All very exciting to me...

Nick

[NickZ]

Another long night last night, working on the circuit, and possibly another one tonight. I work best on these projects at night, and especially late at night. No distractions, and so it allows me to focus better on what I'm doing, as it takes all I can muster up.
I finally got my supplies of new transistors, 100 meg resistors, led bulbs, diodes, etz... so I've been busy redoing my set up with all new components.
I'm happy to report some good results, even though I was surprised how well even the very cheap pnp3906 transistors from RS, and scrap parts had worked out before. But, now I'm on a roll...
The brand new 2n2222 transistors are working great, and the In4148 diodes between the base and emitter is working well with the new transistors. Still using an outside earth ground on the base, and new 1 meg resistors on the base also. All working just fine now.
I'll work on making more new coils, and tuning them as well.

I'm so happy, as although this is a very simple circuit, it has taken me forever to even get this far, and, I'm seeing some nice strong wireless range as well.
I'm also working on getting the circuit to run on solar, as I've got several small solar cells to work with now as well.
As always, any ideas are most welcome.
NickZ

[blumoon]

Another long night last night, working on the circuit, and possibly another one tonight.......
NickZ

Nice work you've done back there.
I'm also trying to get my exciter to draw less current, but unfortunately I don't
have the proper tools and measuring device.
My last setup use 15v power supply draw about 50-100ma.
I was using MPSA06 and the coil were:
L1= 80 turns of 0.4 wire on 1.2cm plastic tube
L2= 70 turns of 0.4 wire on 1.6cm plastic tube
L3= 100 turns of 0.3 wire on 3cm plastic tube
VC= about 470pf (series with L1 for tuning)

That setup lite up 2x 13w U shape cfl wirelessly about 5cm away from L3.
and 46 LEDs not directly connected to L3.
The weird thing is, when there's no load on L3 the transistor get hot,
and I have to put a neon at the end of L3to fire up this thing.
Next time I want to increase the wireless range with LED's connected directly.
But again I don't have any device that will help me, except a cheap DMM. ....

[NickZ]

I've got my tiny Exciter circuits lighting up some CFL bulbs now also.
But, I'm still having a little heat issue at times on the transistor when running at 12v. At 8 to 10 volts the circuits runs best. I'll probably just put a variable resistor on the base also.
Possibly using bigger L3 coils may help to keep the temp lower. The smaller 2n2222 can't be placed as easily on a heat sink, like the bigger transistors can.
I'm having to use a small trigger coil to help start the oscillator. But at less than 8volts I'm still having trouble starting CFLs. They all fire up fine at 12 volts, though. It quite the balance to get it all working right...

NickZ