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there's lots all over the internet it's just a simple rf voltmeter.
Thank-you. Do you think a person could use a 1N60 Germanium Diode in place of the listed OA95?
Thanks
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Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P
@Seth
While waiting for components, here's an idea. Just 'Freecycle' for broken hi-fi's and radios. Pretty much every component for this can be found in radios of the mid 1990's
It's similar to the Slayer work, except some of the raw power is replaced by tunings and potentially greater finesse for applications to come from it. Get the tunings somewhat correct and wireless transfer is a pleasing shocker !
My goals are still within radio controlled aircraft and cars....a wireless system to further other routes and knowledge.
All fine wiring, like 36 gauge or similar can come from cassette drive motors (where mine comes from), thicker of say 20 gauge can come from transformers. Ferrites, transistors, inductors, resistors, capacitors, everything. Quite a few will have 2N2222A and MPSA06 trannies inside, or very good equivalents and a bunch load at that.
Best part, if the thing broke because someone accidentally stuck a shoe heel through a speaker or a belt broke on the cassette player, then you know every component will work
My setup currently is Jonny's circuit leading to a copy of a SEC 'L3'. The L3 is made from part of a plastic solder tube, with approx 22 gauge wire. The circuit will run without the L3, but wireless range is limited to about 1/4" above the inductor. If he took his huge tower from the setup, it'd still run, but be pants in comparison to the great output it showed. The L3 un-pants the setup how i've emulated it and is in keeping with the actual SEC's. The free end of my L3 is directly connected to a board of LED's (no spectrum analyser etc here so it forms a good visual). The board is a common enough AV plug type. The final LED goes out to a small metal mass of aluminium.
Today has been focused on trying out the double coil tunings shown in Dr. Stiffler's latest video (diode on one and spacings). At least a start on such things.
Also, to see just how good the wireless, no battery running can be, when using a Slayer type circuit on low power as the energy source some distance away.
Running at 1.5V, i'm delighted to offer this vid below:
I'm very enthusiastic to get something rolling too, but, also very intimidated at the same time. Especially when I see a guy like Lidmotor, who has the real deal SEC18 I believe? And from what I'm told, not an abundance of success. I am, personally watching closely; the work of Inquorate and Raui, trying to build an RF Voltmeter and initally, a source for the signal.
So, this is my path:
1. Build the RF Voltmeter (very cheap)
2. Buy the 40 MHZ signal generator (also very cheap)
3. Learn the function of both devices, limitations.
4. Amplify the signal from the SG, slightly with transistors as Raui has been explaining
5. Wind some coils, feed them some signal and hope to adjust the input at such a frequency that the RF meter will tell me that "somethings" up.
Pretty crude, and possibly totally incorrect (methodology), so if someone needs to "wise me up" ~~ go for it. I am only trying to make sense of a method that doesn't require $2000 worth of equipment. I do have a 25 MHZ scope coming that I bought inexpensively. A welding equipment repairman sold it to me. Wish it was a 60 or 100, but it's new, and only $100.
---------------------------------------------------- Alberta is under attack... http://rethinkalberta.com/
Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P
---------------------------------------------------- Alberta is under attack... http://rethinkalberta.com/
Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P
My route is similar. The point of low voltage Tesla tower/external SEC excitation is to thoroughly work through tunings. At various points, the external excitation is switched off and the latest findings employed. One day....
Following the latest video, i've dispensed with the earth Ground wire. Major move in some ways, because it removes thoughts on running past household wiring etc. Now, there's a PC heatsink. There's also now 1 less ferrite rod, the one for the small tuning coils. Just got to find a tuning method based on a radio varicap and then i'll hope to dispense with the one in the L3.
What i've found to be shockingly amazing, is that the tuning really is so much different to Slayer circuits. The pic below shows what happened when the 1.5V transmitting tower was placed a great deal further away.
Completely unwired at the receive end now
Your circuit... jonnydavros, Lidmotors... which variant of Dr. Stifflers past work, was this? SEC 15? I've seen boards for sale on his website, but I have never actually seen a circuit diagram, only jonny's and Lid's latest. Thanks.
---------------------------------------------------- Alberta is under attack... http://rethinkalberta.com/
Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P
I have no idea
New to this too, but attempting to read through the Heretical threads etc and i'll learn as you do. I *think* it's the 15-3, but of course these look nothing like Dr. Stifflers boards.
I know Inquorate made one to spec, same traces etc, he'll know
We need an 18X don't we ? or at least pointers as to what changed. I have no idea what Ron thinks about this thread or our aims, but he seems to be quite keen on the replications of the PSEC, from his last video. Insinuations are different to fully knowing though.
Have got some more news from over here. I've been stripping down and redoing and rejigging. The circuit remains *almost* as receptive now as it did in the earlier pic. But, one of the coils has gone, the large metal mass has been replaced with just the smaller aluminium piece and all is now smaller. Tuning has become a bit more finicky. As a bonus though, the little blocking oscillator circuit will run when placed on top of the aluminium piece
The circuit will run without the L3, but wireless range is limited to about 1/4" above the inductor. If he took his huge tower from the setup, it'd still run, but be pants in comparison to the great output it showed.
Hi Slider.Funny you should mention the removal of the L3 leaving just two inductors as that is something i have been playing with too and i agree the wireless range goes to "pants" partly due to the output coil shrinking but have you tried an av plug of the transistor collector/L1 junction leading to an LED board with a metal mass/virtual ground of the last led?I find one wire transfer pretty good with just the two inductors.
Maybe if we could replace the small L1 inductor with a large coil then we could get a big field with just two inductors maybe?
Luving your vids mate and the direction you are going,the leds lighting without a battery was amazingJonny.
Thanks Jonny
It's also thanks to you that i'm still up at 06.30am
Yeah, have found that the AV that I use on the multi-LED board has some amazing properties and seems related to what you are saying. Also relates to Microvolt's words. With just an Earth Ground connected and no power, i'm getting 2.6V with what looks like zero uA...though, it's obviously funky stuff because the LED's come on.
I've added a 2 pin header from that LED board and fired her up with 1.5V - got 32V on the pins ! Course, it probably isn't and will be a meter reading error but, i'm intending to try some transistor rampings from that header. An S8050 transistor didn't do anything, or a couple of other low end low switch on voltage transistors. Thinking about a feedback loop over one of the inductors to trigger.
Have also now got rid of the final ferrite rod. My little version of your circuit now has a variable capacitor from a radio on it, from Collector to L3 and is now twice as big
Works great though. Interestingly, 0pF seems to work as does 520pF at the other end (or whatever they are at max) and then settings inbetween also bring in changes.
@Slider and All:
Thanks for all your videos and new ideas... they are a joy to watch and hear about.
I am also just lurking in the shadows waiting for my chance at this no input idea. Looks like you are not using all the test instruments that the Doc recommends. I will not buy those things, as I can't, but would like to know if I can just use the light from the Led(s) to use to configure the tuning. Also would like to know if I can just blindly wind two or three coils L1 - L3 on just the solder tubes, as I have been saving those little clear plastic tubes, and have several of more. Can you let me know how many turns you've used, with the possible 22 guage wire.
I intend to make this work, even just using my bare hands and junk parts.
I'm already noticing similar results just when I connect some of my cement cells to the positive rail of a 2n2222, that also has a white led across the collector/emitter of the transistor. The led lights with just the one positive wire from the cement cells to the transistor (only one wire connection). I'm working on making the led light even brighter, now using two leds. Any ideas on making this work, and especially without the use of all the needed test equipment, is more than welcome.
NickZ
A lot of this stems from a previous clue, which I heard of from Dr. Stiffler in another topic some while ago. I know Seth replicated and others. It's where you can put a Ground stake outside and have an AV plug on an LED. You hold the AV plug in your hand and the LED will illuminate at least partially. For many weeks, I had a white LED running like that, with a disconnected PC power supply forming my hand, if you see what I mean. When the power supply was touched, the LED lit up to twice the brightness.
I'm sure you may know, that Tesla writes at length in his Colorado Springs notes, about his troubles with his grounding stakes...he had to constantly water them until results were deemed acceptable (his results expectations can be imagined to be far more stringent than ours i'm sure !).
In light of which, 'now we have power'.
Dr. Stiffler's circuit appears to ramp up such energies, yet gain a bandwidth product in harmony with 13MHz natural cosmic style energy.
Maybe your cap cans have enough metal mass to form the virtual groundings - my own cells are to be tested, as I always have liked your capacitor can method and it works excellently.
Test equipment is, I believe completely necessary to properly tune and calibrate any PSEC. Verifications of any other interfering frequencies can't be ascertained for any eventual 'runner' otherwise.
However, understanding what is happening via other means is really my aim. The LED board has the 'feature' of the AV input producing unexpected results.
Today, in the present configuration, it's showing 11.46V at 2uA on the pins and so that will be mucked around with to see where it can go.
I'd like to know if the LED's have any merit too. So far they've been invaluable.
I see no problems with using this energy via a ramping capacitive stage of transistor amplification - but i'm not normally blessed with 20/20 mental visions of seeing the finished idea running before it is built. Mind you, I don't walk around the block 3 times or feed pidgeons with any great regularity either.
Whether my L3 is a true L3 is something that time will bear out. But, for an easy enough idea it works and I don't know if this is a common way of making one...just appealed at the time.
The solder tube is Dremmel'd down in length to 'look' the same as the innard of an actual L3 (from videos and pics). There are 127 winds on it. 144 would make Phi/Fibonacci sense. 27 is the number that i'm personally blessed/hindered by, having cropped up so many times in house purchases to car registration plates to whatever else that 27 was just going to be included somewhere (part of username of course and 32 was my age 10 years ago when the name was made up).
The previously used ferrite rods are from old radios and work just as well as the tuning cap does. The tuning cap is much more elegant however and i've never seen the Doc use a ferrite rod anyway.
Also intending to find out more about the negister/esaki properties of the legendary 2222's and whether more transistors display the qualities. Or, in other words, i'm out of 2222's and in a probably similar financial boat !
Slider:
Wow, that was a long answer, and a funny one at that, at least the part with pigeons joke. I really like what u r doing, and especially the way that you've come up with the lighting of the leds with no input. Now I see where the idea comes from.
I'll try to wind a similar amount of turns on a knockoff L3. But, that info on number of turns, is what I needed to know. I realize that it comes with no guarantee. I know the odds are against me, but that has not stopped me before, as my instincts can also help to guide my way, sometimes...
Somehow this all reminds me of the TPU projects where our ol buddy Otto was seeing and showing about the narrow operating frequencies of the resonant factors, and how easily they can be missed. I will only be guided by the light from the leds, as I've mentioned. That has worked for me up to now, in a limited way, and is the only source of feed-back information that I have or can use.
BTW: The capacitor cans as well as the cement cells with a pound of thick copper wire spiraled inside do, work similar to the virtual ground, and even better than just touching the emitter of the transistor with my hand. If I let my bare feet touch the tile floor, the led goes out, lifting my feet off the ground, and the two white leds light back up.
If it looks like a duck... and flies like a duck, and quacks like a duck...
but, don't forget to feed the pigeons.
If pidgeons are our aim, then this project is like a fine homing pidgeon, not a golden egg producing goose...or errr something like that.
The video below is of my version of the Jonnydavro circuit now, which probably needs a name to do with pidgeons.
*thinking*
Dr. Stiffler has the ident on all of this, but it's showing promise when we consider that test equipment should be used,...and isn't. Wouldn't want to get all lofty if something worked a bit like a PSEC.
Ok, the video below is of where the 'Pidgeon Loft' is up to.
A lowly version energy collection circuit, containing entities who are all chirping away at the same frequency, together. Some may be at remote locations in the future and yet will return their energy home to the loft wherever they may be:
You might note in the video, that 1 of the wires remains connected from the DC/DC adapter. The effect is still there without the connection but less strong, same as the video posted before this one. A chap called UrCoffeeTastesToasty who has seemed to have a lot of advice on related YouTube videos has confirmed some thoughts.
The Pidgeon Loft may be using the potential difference between an Earth Ground and a house mains Ground. 60Hz compared to 0Hz.
So, what we have, is a system of two different Ground connections and that difference is driving the circuit ? Except, of course, that the adapter is switched off and that the mains Ground connection would have to carry induction based 60Hz anyway
After the video, I put an AV plug on the mains Ground connection from the DC/DC adapter and a 100uF electrolytic cap. The wires then ran to the power inputs of the SEC circuit, via a momentary switch. After a few seconds I had 1.5V on the cap and could fire the SEC conventionally for wireless power.
Putting a small 0.047F supercap in place of the 100uF, after 10mins I had 3V and the circuit will run for half a minute as a full wireless energy SEC
If left alone and just running all the time, it can be imagined that a small rechargeable battery can be kept topped up and run wireless experiments whenever wanted.
From here, I wish to explore tunings into the radio frequencies and find that 13MHz sweet spot.
You might note in the video, that 1 of the wires remains connected from the DC/DC adapter. The effect is still there without the connection but less strong, same as the video posted before this one. A chap called UrCoffeeTastesToasty who has seemed to have a lot of advice on related YouTube videos has confirmed some thoughts.
The Pidgeon Loft may be using the potential difference between an Earth Ground and a house mains Ground. 60Hz compared to 0Hz.
So, what we have, is a system of two different Ground connections and that difference is driving the circuit ? Except, of course, that the adapter is switched off and that the mains Ground connection would have to carry induction based 60Hz anyway
After the video, I put an AV plug on the mains Ground connection from the DC/DC adapter and a 100uF electrolytic cap. The wires then ran to the power inputs of the SEC circuit, via a momentary switch. After a few seconds I had 1.5V on the cap and could fire the SEC conventionally for wireless power.
Putting a small 0.047F supercap in place of the 100uF, after 10mins I had 3V and the circuit will run for half a minute as a full wireless energy SEC
If left alone and just running all the time, it can be imagined that a small rechargeable battery can be kept topped up and run wireless experiments whenever wanted.
From here, I wish to explore tunings into the radio frequencies and find that 13MHz sweet spot.
Nice work Slider!
thanks for keeping all that open. I seem to recall Dr Stiffler mentioned someplace that we all need to loose the power supplies - there are many things that go on in his ckt that can be effected by them.
anyway, you've got an awesome tenacious apatite for all this. I look forward to the continued success.
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