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Good to hear of your progress blumoon and yours Nick 
The heating with no load is quite a common thing blumoon. The efficiency of the circuit increases as draw is made from it, otherwise, it seems, the output has nowhere to go. It would be so useful to actually see the fields in a 3D space environment.
Load up too much and everything dims, but you'll not draw more amperage when powered items do overload the circuit. End result from too much loading on these is that they often just shut down. Even body capacitance in the wrong place will power them down.
I have troubles with sparking them up too - a piezo lighter is simple enough, placed near the main circuit...kinda shocks the thing into oscillation. Touching the Positive of the battery to the junction of the L1 and LED also works.
Oh, do try running a finger quickly across the top of the L3 too...looks like magic when the circuit fires up.
One viewpoint, has it that a heatsink on a small signal transistor means yer really fouling up ! lol. In my opinion, whatever works best, works best and the heatsink may allow for further tunings that bring temperatures down. A penny superglued to the flat face of the transistor is one way, or a piece of thicker aluminium bend around the actual can. You can superglue them to the small MOSFET type actual heatsinks as well and, sometimes signal transistors will fit securely between the vent vanes of larger heatsinks.
One fix, may be to introduce more than the 2x 1N4148 and LED to the Base. If you already have those in place then things must be pretty wild for that Base current. Another 0.7V diode voltage drop would further help that transistor out...could add as many as it takes or til the circuit doesn't run.
A permanent solution for your 8-10V running Nick would be a 7810 voltage regulator - 12V input to Pin 1, ground to Pin 2, 10V output from Pin 3. That way you can run from a car battery if wanted and would have up to 1.5A available if wanted.
Here's one datasheet: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ua7810.pdf
(find them on 1990's telephone answering machines most commonly)
Pics of both setups would be good to see.
The heating with no load is quite a common thing blumoon. The efficiency of the circuit increases as draw is made from it, otherwise, it seems, the output has nowhere to go. It would be so useful to actually see the fields in a 3D space environment.
Load up too much and everything dims, but you'll not draw more amperage when powered items do overload the circuit. End result from too much loading on these is that they often just shut down. Even body capacitance in the wrong place will power them down.
I have troubles with sparking them up too - a piezo lighter is simple enough, placed near the main circuit...kinda shocks the thing into oscillation. Touching the Positive of the battery to the junction of the L1 and LED also works.
Oh, do try running a finger quickly across the top of the L3 too...looks like magic when the circuit fires up.
One viewpoint, has it that a heatsink on a small signal transistor means yer really fouling up ! lol. In my opinion, whatever works best, works best and the heatsink may allow for further tunings that bring temperatures down. A penny superglued to the flat face of the transistor is one way, or a piece of thicker aluminium bend around the actual can. You can superglue them to the small MOSFET type actual heatsinks as well and, sometimes signal transistors will fit securely between the vent vanes of larger heatsinks.
One fix, may be to introduce more than the 2x 1N4148 and LED to the Base. If you already have those in place then things must be pretty wild for that Base current. Another 0.7V diode voltage drop would further help that transistor out...could add as many as it takes or til the circuit doesn't run.
A permanent solution for your 8-10V running Nick would be a 7810 voltage regulator - 12V input to Pin 1, ground to Pin 2, 10V output from Pin 3. That way you can run from a car battery if wanted and would have up to 1.5A available if wanted.
Here's one datasheet: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ua7810.pdf
(find them on 1990's telephone answering machines most commonly)
Pics of both setups would be good to see.
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