My 76,000 rpm pulsed dc motor

[willy96]

99 % of the reason you acheive high rpm is the size of your rotor ..

peroid!


i have done extencive reserch in spinning things fast ...

i choose motionless!



W

best of luck .. i cant be bothered to post here any more .. the useless big ass chair consumers keep takeing my words .. cuz they SUCK AND THEY ARE DUMB ...

[mnsman]

Ahh Its a Bedini, easy to do but a low efficiency motor. You need a generator coil placed opposite the power coil for your output and just wire the circuit like on my Lockridge trifilar coil thread and you will be smoking my friend. The inductive kickback and radiant will charge a resonant capacitor for your next pulse. Your speed will be much lower as the generator coil will be a load, if you get the size of the coil right you will have a self runner by feeding its output back to the source capacitor. If you do it well you might have a problem of the voltage rising too high on the source. Try to load the motor down to a point where your coils are loudest, this is the resonant frequency.

You will need 2 MOSFETS

Circuit Simulator Applet

Your suggestion is appreciated and noted. I'm not sure if you examined the animation of the experiment I want to conduct but that would clue you into what I'm trying to accomplish at the moment. Going for the touchdown on 4th and goal not the field goal. If the experiment is a failure then I'll take the approach you suggest. High speed rotation, Timing, Resonance, Geometry and a strong Discharge are keys to the experiment. Having everything in harmony- Tesla HV resonating discharge circuit and drive coil. I envision the output coming from the Tesla circuit not a pickup coil. For the moment that is the direction I am heading.

Don't get me wrong I'd love to have a self runner and what you propose may in fact get me there. I do appreciate your suggestion. What I'm truly after is assistance in designing the Tesla circuit shown in my animation. Can you help there or point me to the right person?
Thanks.

[quantumuppercut]

Have you try loading this 76k rpm generator? Any output information? You said you think power is flowing back to the supply. This is interesting. Does your transistor have a body diode that allows reverse current?

[mnsman]

Have you try loading this 76k rpm generator? Any output information? You said you think power is flowing back to the supply. This is interesting. Does your transistor have a body diode that allows reverse current?

See my latest vid. Just uploaded. It has some power mosfet info. I caught my P.S. freakin out. New rotor info.

P-Motor Update 12-11-11 - New rotors and P.S. freakin out - YouTube

I haven't loaded it. With exception. I have a light bulb I've been using to discharge the recovery cap. A few times I have ran unknowingly with the light on. The motor ran a lot slower but no data. Bulb dim. Always swore and then turned it off. Will have to test. Just know the bulb loads it down.

[soundiceuk]

Hi, I'm not sure exactly how you have wound your coil to pulse the magnet. I'm guessing like a speaker. I believe it will be a good idea to follow this patent to replace your coil. Tesla Patent 512,340 - Coil for Electro-Magnets

[mnsman]

Hi, I'm not sure exactly how you have wound your coil to pulse the magnet. I'm guessing like a speaker. I believe it will be a good idea to follow this patent to replace your coil. Tesla Patent 512,340 - Coil for Electro-Magnets

You make a valid point. Mine is a one wire pancake coil. 13 stacked and wired in series. I found it difficult enough to wind these. Bi-filar would complicate it that much more. So little time and so many things to try and that is one of them. For the time being I am testing what I have. Maybe in the future.

Thanks for that suggestion.

[mnsman]

Have you try loading this 76k rpm generator? Any output information? You said you think power is flowing back to the supply. This is interesting. Does your transistor have a body diode that allows reverse current?

I loaded it tonight.

Since I can't properly measure for current and the motor is oscillating in rpm you have to take it for what it's worth. Current reading was from the dc input power supply's on board ammeter. The motor ramps up and down in rpm in both loaded and unloaded conditions. At least there is consistency in the inaccuracy of the current reading since the same meter was used in both cases.

Results
unloaded:
Power supply voltmeter 20Vdc input
Power supply ammeter .77A-.82A
rpm 32,000-33,500

loaded:
load 68.5 ohm 5W resistor (68.5 ohm measured/68 ohm rated)
Power supply voltmeter 20Vdc input
Power supply ammeter .81A-.85A
rpm 32,300 - 32,700
Measured output voltage across resistor was 12.89Vdc-13.11Vdc
Calculated current 12.89/68.5 =188mA 13.11/68.5 = 191mA
Calculated watts = 2.42W - 2.58W

Conclusion
If the measurements were known to be accurate it looks like there's something here to be investigated.

There is an 80mA difference between the highest recorded amp draw when loaded (850mA) and the lowest unloaded value of 770mA. 850mA - 770mA = 80mA. The calculated load varies between 188mA and 191mA. Both values exceed the 80mA difference between max loaded current draw and min unloaded current draw.

Questions
Is my approach correct (with exception of not having a proper meter of course)?

This is a bad question BUT... Does the consistently inaccurate measuring make up for the inaccuracy?

Does anyone have some ideas on this?

I need suggestions on how to properly measure the input power.

Thanks

[mnsman]

Blowin halls

To all,

I repeatedly blew halls tonight until I realized the halls did not like being forced right into 25Vdc at the flick of a switch. Typically with the p.s. I ramp up slow all the way up to 30Vdc. The halls have been holding until the bat came along.

I really wanted to reproduce running on battery with fairchild FQAFN90 fet. The scope and power supply both went crazy. The supply was on but nothing connected to it. I had a few similar experiences with being hooked to the supply on one channel and the other wasn't hook to anything. The unconnected side started flipping out. Is it the supply? It's been running fine since. View the power supply going crazy at 1:40 mnsman1's Channel - YouTube

I plan to connect the hall to just one of the 12v bats and the driver/coil to 24V (both bats). Another switch needs to be added and fuse. Any other solutions on the hall problem?

Hopefully I can reproduce. Don't want to blow my supply but I want to try some things. Supply may be a good indicator that something is going on. I can shut it off and start trying some things. Not quite sure what yet. Suggestions welcome.

The only reason I don't think it is the supply is because of the scope signal and the huge bemf I was getting.

[quantumuppercut]

Thanks for the info.

Yeah, I watched the vid 2/3 and saw the power supply reading and the killowatt meter reading. It seems funky. I'm leaning toward the killowatt meter though. It seems to give a believable value.

Interesting that you loaded about 2.5 watts and RPM went down about 1000. Looking closely to the vid 2/3, each 10 watts increase 10000 rpm roughly. I take it that too low rpm or too high rpm is not an optimized operating point. Another interesting thing is the current read out from both meter and power supply seems to be constant with different speeds.

I think the high voltage spikes are affecting your equipment. Voltage spikes are like nuclear EMPs lol.

[willy96]

i have built the magic maker a long time ago .. it is a coil tunner both pnp and npn

with pnp switching your stuff can go nuts
i usually use batteries to test with

you can see the effect of the flyback in many of my videos
i built a coil that accelerates or de accleerated depending .. as it does this it sweeps the freq range and in doing so ... it recharges source .. aswell outputting many volts ..

i could dig up the videos but .. we will see how things go here

W

[mnsman]

@Mnsman
Thank you for putting your work here.
I have some ideas for this but it will take some time to replicate your work. I will try to help. Can you post a schematic of your switching circuit.
Thanks. William Reed

Hi William,

Thanks for the welcome and reply.
My circuit is simple because I'm simple. lol A hand drawing makes an appearance in my 2nd vid Opitcal Tachometer hack at 5:17. Optical tachometer hack - YouTube

It is one power mosfet, recovery diode and cap, hall sensor cap and resistor, and of course the coil. Nothing to brag about but it's got me this far. The coil and rotor are the keys to the whole rig. It took time to find a bearing arrangement too.

I list part numbers for the shaft, bearing and mag in this video
45000 RPM pulse dc motor WARNING DANGEROUS CAUTION IF REPRODUCING - YouTube .

The coil is described in this video:
Drive coil specs and construction method - YouTube

I need to draw up a better schematic. Time is my biggest problem.

I'm sure you already know my arrangement by what I've said.
Looking for a micro controller programmer to assist with the next phase. Timing of this device is sensitive. Know anyone?

Jim

[mnsman]

Thanks for the info.

Yeah, I watched the vid 2/3 and saw the power supply reading and the killowatt meter reading. It seems funky. I'm leaning toward the killowatt meter though. It seems to give a believable value.

Interesting that you loaded about 2.5 watts and RPM went down about 1000. Looking closely to the vid 2/3, each 10 watts increase 10000 rpm roughly. I take it that too low rpm or too high rpm is not an optimized operating point. Another interesting thing is the current read out from both meter and power supply seems to be constant with different speeds.

I think the high voltage spikes are affecting your equipment. Voltage spikes are like nuclear EMPs lol.

Thanks for the reply quantumuppercut.

I threw the Kill a watt readings in for good measure. It's a good indication of what the power supply is consuming but does it tell us anything about the motor? Not so sure because the p.s. output vs input probably isn't proportional at different voltage outputs.

I think you are correct that the device needs to be optimized for efficiency vs speed. I haven't concerned myself with that yet. My primary goal has been speed over efficiency because I'm believe that there is more to be gained by the rotational speed. That doesn't mean that I don't want to be optimized for efficiency. I want both. A micro controller sure would be handy for that. I'm a bit deficient in that area. I need help. Sure I can do it with a big learning curve. This project is more of a proof of concept. The coils may need to be replaced in order to achieve the higher speeds efficiently.

The problem with analyzing the data I have presented is that I am so UN-scientific. I'll manually change the position of the hall and get totally different results with the same input. Another vote for a micro controller. The hall could just stay put and timing and duration adjusted via micro controller.

HELP WANTED:
Micro Controller Programmer

Agreed the HV spikes are causing me problems with readings. At the same time they are a beautiful thing. Harnessing them is the problem. Yes I've noticed how sometimes when I increase input voltage the current stays nearly the same. This device needs more attention than I alone can give it. Not to mention that I am clearly unqualified to do proper analysis and engineering. That's why I'm here. I'd like to see this go nuclear. I think it shows a lot of promise and I hope the right individuals see the merit and climb on board. But I don't want this to turn into the Muller fiasco. I haven't kept up with that over the last few months but I don't think there have been any developments. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks
Jim

[mnsman]

I loaded it tonight.

Since I can't properly measure for current and the motor is oscillating in rpm you have to take it for what it's worth. Current reading was from the dc input power supply's on board ammeter. The motor ramps up and down in rpm in both loaded and unloaded conditions. At least there is consistency in the inaccuracy of the current reading since the same meter was used in both cases.

Results
unloaded:
Power supply voltmeter 20Vdc input
Power supply ammeter .77A-.82A
rpm 32,000-33,500

loaded:
load 68.5 ohm 5W resistor (68.5 ohm measured/68 ohm rated)
Power supply voltmeter 20Vdc input
Power supply ammeter .81A-.85A
rpm 32,300 - 32,700
Measured output voltage across resistor was 12.89Vdc-13.11Vdc
Calculated current 12.89/68.5 =188mA 13.11/68.5 = 191mA
Calculated watts = 2.42W - 2.58W

Conclusion
If the measurements were known to be accurate it looks like there's something here to be investigated.

There is an 80mA difference between the highest recorded amp draw when loaded (850mA) and the lowest unloaded value of 770mA. 850mA - 770mA = 80mA. The calculated load varies between 188mA and 191mA. Both values exceed the 80mA difference between max loaded current draw and min unloaded current draw.

Questions
Is my approach correct (with exception of not having a proper meter of course)?

This is a bad question BUT... Does the consistently inaccurate measuring make up for the inaccuracy?

Does anyone have some ideas on this?

I need suggestions on how to properly measure the input power.

Thanks

To all,

I intend to perform the same load test and make a video of it tonight or at least soon. I will run it at higher rpm loaded too.

Jim

[citfta]

Microcontroller

Hi Jim,

There are several of us on this forum that use the Picaxe microcontrollers. I use the 18x version. They are reasonably cheap and the programming is not hard at all. You can down load the instruction manual for free first and see what you think about the programming. The 18x has an ADC (analogue to digital) input and PWM (pulse width modulation) output as well as regular switch input and on off output. Following the manual you can probably learn basic input output commands in one evening. RobotShop is where I got mine from. There is a project board that makes it easy do your first projects until you get to the point where you want to build your own boards. I am no expert at programming it but I can usually get it to do what I want and I have only been using it for about a year. There are some examples of programming and use of the board in the "Use for the Tesla Switch" thread. Most of those are way more complicated than what you need but they will give you an idea of what can be done with them. Hope this helps some.

Carroll

[willy96]

well jim

there all easy to build and fairly cheep .. altho the understanding runs incredibally deep ... ps my spelling sux .. but i manage ..

i dont wish to deter you in any means from your work .. it is easy to take a detour in the unknowen the best way to capture the free energy ..is a cap and diode and or with a bridge .. many combonations work .. another verry simple improvement to your motor design that will yeild speticular results .. is dubble pulseing
this whole thing is all about timeing .. same with resonance .. but tesla states resonance is not required ! and in refreance to this style tech he says to dibilertly tune off the freqs of conversion

when you intrurpt your running motor at source .. what is observed ?
we can take 2 more steps forward ...

we can pluse in sync supply from source ... ps use a battery or your gonna blow up your power supply !!!!!!

so you get your motor running .. but you have 2 relays from battery 1 on pos and 1 on neg choose your BEST RUNNING FREQUENCY .. IE speed of motor .. for the desired effect you choose

once up to speed you then can pluse supply and harvest at contact points ... as well as harvest where you currently are ..

i went down the rabbit hole so far i came out the other side ..

CAUTION MUST BE EXCERCISED do not use 24 vdc .. it is gonna hurt you .. i know i was blowen halfway across the room ... with nothing more than a simple pluse motor ...
all i was doing was un hooking the 2 12vdc solar deep cycle batteries and i got ONE HELL OF A LIFTER
left it alone for a long time after that


this is proof of my words .. useing low voltage .. look at the tuneing i employ ... magnetically tuned ... coils .. whatever ... not resonant tuned ... we are shareing upon a magnetic core .. there for transformer action applyes but there is far more to it .. as you can plainly see ..

look at the brightness of my driveing led there is proof in simple means of my technology
2 FREQ RINGING MAGNET TRICK - YouTube


so to clairfiy you will hook up your relays to the normally closed contact thus allowing your motor to run as it is ..
then pluse and diode off the relay contacts .. and blow your mind !


W

we about to fly ... and it aint slowing down anytime soon !

we can go 2 steps further yet .. but i do not want to cluster fu#k your brain ..
the next steps are to place caps in correct places and remove source ...



i forgot to mention your motor must be tuned correctly b4 any of this is employed ..

do you have 2 frequency output on your motor currently ..
does it sing with out motion .. ? if not .. make it sing then worrie about high speed .. now once singing adjust the resistance to acheive a ballance point where your happy with out put ... and happy with the speed the motor travels at .. as you adjust the restance your output will change so will motor speed find where it runs best ... need not worrie about consumed power .. more the better ..

this is motor coil tuneing
this is WHY I HAVE 20 WATT RESISTORS AND THEY ARE HEAT SYNCED AND A FAN ON THEM OR THEY BURN UP

that is key first off IMHO