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    I have just been sent a link to this site Puls-R - Home - Puls-R International: Puls R products double your battery life!! I wondered if anyone knows what it is?

  • #2
    Pulse charging

    There are two types of pulse charging. One type is the pulse voltage charging like we get with the Bedini SSG. The other type is current pulsing which comes from charging a cap to a higher voltage than the battery and then discharging the cap into the battery. Both types have been shown to reduce sulfation and increase the battery life and capacity. According to Peter L. the cap pulsing allows you to continue to use a regular charger after reconditioning the battery, but voltage pulsing does something to the battery so that it does not like to be charged with a conventional charger after being charged by the voltage pulses. Hope this info is what you wanted. You can build either type for much less money than what they are wanting for that device.

    Carroll
    Just because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by citfta View Post
      There are two types of pulse charging. One type is the pulse voltage charging like we get with the Bedini SSG. The other type is current pulsing which comes from charging a cap to a higher voltage than the battery and then discharging the cap into the battery. Both types have been shown to reduce sulfation and increase the battery life and capacity. According to Peter L. the cap pulsing allows you to continue to use a regular charger after reconditioning the battery, but voltage pulsing does something to the battery so that it does not like to be charged with a conventional charger after being charged by the voltage pulses. Hope this info is what you wanted. You can build either type for much less money than what they are wanting for that device.

      Carroll
      Hi Carroll
      It has been a long time since we have chatted. I have the parts to build a Bedini SSG but I have been too busy to start that project but still hope to. I am however fasinatd by the discharging of a cap into a battery if the capacitor is of higher voltage. That sounds like somthing I may be able to do easliy with my transfer swicth onc eI work out the bugs. Is there a thread deatiling that further?
      thanks
      Bizzy
      Smile it doesn't hurt!

      Jesus said,"...all things are possible through God." Mk10:27

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      • #4
        Hi Bizzy,

        Yes there are actually a few threads that talk about a cap discharger circuit. There is one on the first page of this forum right now about a Bedini cap pulser circuit. And there has also been some discussion of this idea on the Tesla Switch thread. I am sure a search on this forum will show you some good ideas about what is going on or can be done with a cap pulser circuit. I am interested in your switching circuit when you get it done as I am still looking at various ways of doing this myself.

        Later,
        Carroll
        Just because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.

        Comment


        • #5
          There is also a George Wiseman capacitive battery charger that he sold plans for. I am not sure if it pulsed or not.

          George

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          • #6
            Originally posted by stargate22
            Just a battery desulfator...fancy I must admit!!


            By the way, how's that Lockridge thingy coming along?


            Are ya sure a roto-verter with a "home made" 60+ volt inverter might not
            be a simpler way, off the shelf way to go...ya might be surprised....


            ...just saying?
            Hi Stargate,

            Any leads on where to start looking for this "home-made" 60+ volt inverter?

            Thanks, Garry

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            • #7
              Yeah it's a self desulfator, here's one for us home builders.



              Uploaded with ImageShack.us

              a 60 volt plus inverter is easy, just wind two primaries on a core side by side say
              80 turns each then wind a 400 turn secondary on top, 80 primary turns divided into 12 volts is 0.15 volts per turn times 400 secondary turns is 60 volts.

              Then just use a regular two phase PWM chip to switch the two primaries in opposite directions, depending on the core the frequency can be quite high.

              I wound this one for 240 with four transformers on one core. This shows the first one. But a simple one for 60 volts can be a lot smaller, it depends how much power you want through it. I've got one for 12 to 60 volts too.


              Uploaded with ImageShack.us

              I have got a circuit for an adjustable frequency and pulse width PWM circuit but i'm having trouble locating it.

              Cheers

              EDIT fixed error above I typed 100 turns instead of 80. Soz
              Last edited by Farmhand; 02-03-2012, 04:39 PM. Reason: Fixed error

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              • #8
                Thanks for the info guys , I just wanted to know what it was.

                stargate22, The Lockridge thingy is still on the drawing board to some extent, garrypm is going to run a few tests for me once we have this new coil figured, I am waiting for a reply form Armagdno3 and we should be able to start winding a coil to test.

                Thanks for that info Farmhand

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by stargate22
                  Hello Gary,

                  "Home made" inverter...looking for that my self...other than CHINA made

                  However...FYI and to others here!


                  My experiments so far are indicating that if a person can "Narrow the gap" of DC voltage input to AC voltage
                  output...a ratio ( 60v dc + ) to an inverter w/ preferably 220 volts output, will give less amp draw to inverter which will allow a resonating induction motor ( alternator mode ) put out enough amps ( bridge diodes ), to loop back to driving batteries / inverter, thus a looped device...

                  So far I have a "new" in excellent shape a induction 7.5hp / 3-phase motor, shaft connected to a "new" 5hp / 3-phase induction motor ( alternator mode.) giving me @ 3520 rpm, 8 amps DC (+) output through (1) Antek #4225 toroid transformer, connected w/ caps @ 20uf 440v to just 2 phases. I still have 400v / 3rd phase left to tap!

                  I have this going through a 600v / 35 amp bridge with a draw on driving motor of 3 amps ac @ 115v input from inverter.

                  Inverter is a Statpower 800 watt / 24v. At a 3 amp AC motor draw @ 115v I am pulling 14 dc amps from batts ( 2-12v / 100 ah ). Thats @ 24vdc in!

                  If a person were to increase the AC voltage out to drive motor...ie 220v, inverter / motor draw should drop even further!

                  Now, go to 60vdc + in...getting the picture yet? Inverter draw goes down!

                  CLOSE THE "GAP"....once ya got it "LOOPED", who needs those stinky batts.
                  other than a fancy 'litic cap that starts eveything.....perhaps I'm missing something?

                  5hp Induction alternator AC amps out from caps is 3.6+ amps @ 450 vac +, before even going to the diode bridge....do the math!

                  "OU" is there already...It's how a person "TAPS" this, Hector was correct
                  in the implications / possibilities of this, not to mention going further.

                  This is a experiment in continuing progress....waiting to purchase a 48v inverter, add another Antek #4225, combine the two #4225 trans. out to a 48v batt. bank / inverter. Of course I understand the higher batt. voltage may drop the amp charge to batts. due the higher batt. voltages.

                  But, the idea is to "FEED" that inverter's "LUST" for "POWER"....negating the batts. after start!

                  The 3rd phase, yet un-tapped will give ya some charge to a Batt. bank of your choice...Mmmmm I'd say 3-4 amps at least through a third coil!

                  ...Don't know yet, but it's worth a try...even further!

                  Will keep ya'll posted as progress goes on...if the Weather ever warms up?
                  I think you are thinking on the same lines as me, we loop the input back to the source therefore reducing the input while maintaining the actual power in the motor. I have only been successful doing this using a pulsed DC input and Bipolar switching. This dramatically improves the efficiency and if the motor was efficient enough to start with, we will already be into overunity.

                  Initially I was using an inverter too, to step up the voltage so that I could fulfill the amp requirement of the motor. Yes I believe I had an overunity in energy in the motor windings because the heat produced was excessive for the 12v motor I used while the input power was the same. I would need a 220v motor with the same internal resistance as a 12v motor to achieve this without the heat problem but I don't know where to find one. Even a 2kw 220v motor had too high resistance.

                  I don't know how you would do it with an induction motor as the energy is transferred into the rotor, I was using universal motors.

                  Yes once you loop the output of the generator to the source you will not need batteries, just a big cap to smooth things out.

                  Do you have a thread on this? if not start one.

                  If you don't mind include your circuit so I can fully understand what is happening.

                  There is a few tricks you may be able to do with the third winding, don't always consider it as an output, think how you can feed it back into the motor to reduce the input. If you draw energy out, the motor will consume more from the source, I believe that we should do the opposite and feed it back into the motor somehow, as I said there are a few tricks.

                  I have tried this in a Bedini fan but the whole thing is too small for me to do it, then I tried it with my Bedini SSG but my motor output was still too low.

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