My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Lester444]

What about using your welder. They are made for secure touching the connections. This tells me that we expect a maximum voltage betwen 24 .... 70V. They are made for current but who cares? With the current control you adjust the maximum current in short circuit case only but at same time the voltage on your DC motor.

Hello all,

I do have a DC welder (new gen with active electronics inside) so I hurried off to measure the voltage. It's no-go with only 16 volts at the terminals at no load. This model goes up to 160A and it is very efficient with the use of power. Too bad the voltage is not enough. There's only 1 knob for adjustment of the current.

Alternatively, 2 of these cheap China-made DC welders can be hooked up in series to come up with 32v @ 160A. I got mine for ~US$250 brand-new.

Perhaps others would chime in with what they have so we'll know what works or not.

Lester444

[Ufopolitics]

Hello My Dear Friend...

Hi Ufo!
I have less time than usual and try to catch up. Just short reply.

1.
What about using your welder. They are made for secure touching the connections. This tells me that we expect a maximum voltage betwen 24 .... 70V. They are made for current but who cares? With the current control you adjust the maximum current in short circuit case only but at same time the voltage on your DC motor.
Some advanced welders exhibit a ignition HV at first touch but this will not disturb your motor.

1.a If you have a DC welder you are ready to go.
1.b If not: you need to build a rectifier bridge out of massie diodes. If you have access to a welder shop they might have such a "pet" as spare part. Else you can buy diodes like used at car alternators. You get them at eBay like these samples or ready made bridges like
these.

Such setups are available wordwide.

2.
For smooth manual control you can build a pulser UFO-style for those amps. But I would suggest to build enhanced FET drivers in order to get less losses. We can talk later on about this.
1a. FOR PROFESSIONALS ONLY: rectified AC can be pulsed directly up to 30% duty cycle. This setup can be lethal! Non professionals stay away from this idea!


3.
Don't care about the controller itself. We will use a simple and cheap micro (12$). (Nico! Do you agree?) The program provided can be updated by anybody via USB and some key strokes. So it can start dead simple and everybody can update further enhancements.

3a. For simple use without frequency control it will measure AC voltage and output variable PWM to the pulser.
3b. For true home energy we will measure AC frequency and output PWM to teh pulser. Voltage control needs to be done seperately at the generator head.

Hello My Dear Friend John Stone,

Your idea to use a Welder is so wonderful!!

You are so right!


I have got a brand new 70 A and 42V OCT (Open Contact Voltage), however it uses AC Single Phase Output on Electrodes.

What I love about this Welder, is that since it is just an Arc Welder...the circuit is extremely simple, a brand new concept Transformer...and no complicated electronics...or speed controls for wire feeder, fans, etc

I want too use it as the "Transition Power Source" to replace Batteries, after System is running and warm, as Generator is outputting excellent and turns it on at 120/20 Amps easy...no drop on RPM's from Prime Mover at all.

Now, the issue am having is exactly with the Bridge Rectifier...I tried one of 25A...and besides turning too Hot...it just delivered @16.0 Amps DC, while Input was at 20A...So I am getting a higher Current Forward one...like you posted here...but I have single phase, so no need to use that one but a compatible in Single, right?

I found this ones that I could get in town...

http://www.nteinc.com/specs/5300to53...nte5340_44.pdf

Of course, I will try the 5344 (1000V/40A)...However, that is "borderline" with my "No Load" Input to Prime Mover...maybe above by a couple of amps...so really I do not feel safe still...

Could I please get your Always great and Excellent Professional advice here ...


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

Hi Ufo,
You can use a single diode but you will have half amperage at secondary only.
You need to use a bunch of capacitors as well after the rectification.

You need to use heatsinks either. If you decide to use several diodes in parallel you are requested to mount them on a common heat sink. Else if one gets hot it will get more current.....up to burn down and then the next one will forward the domino effect. Semiconductors tend to reduce their forward voltage by 2mV per Kelvin - different from usual resistors and filamemts as well.

The alternator diodes can be pressed in a heatsink for intensive thermal contact. The type above is capable of 400V / 50A.

If you intend to use a bridge rectifier (like your suggestion or self made like my suggestion) please note that the ground of your welder will not be the same as the ground of your rectrifier output. The welder will have the output ground same as protective ground at mains. In this case you need to have the power from your prime mover isolated from casing and protective ground.
The bridge rectifier shall have caps at output as well (half the capacity like with single diode.

Please note that caps have a max. current they can stand (datasheet). If overloaded constantly they will explode. In my former company we lost a whole lot of expensive machines at 24h burn in test. Unfortunately the burn in was performed with true and unsolicited fire because of exploding caps in one single PSU and subsequent short circuits by the aluminum foil confetti!

@Lester: If putting welders in series you will connect the protective ground to your DC ground and one of them will get a short circuit.
JohnS

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks John

Hi Ufo,
You can use a single diode but you will have half amperage at secondary only.
You need to use a bunch of capacitors as well after the rectification.

You need to use heatsinks either. If you decide to use several diodes in parallel you are requested to mount them on a common heat sink. Else if one gets hot it will get more current.....up to burn down and then the next one will forward the domino effect. Semiconductors tend to reduce their forward voltage by 2mV per Kelvin - different from usual resistors and filamemts as well.

The alternator diodes can be pressed in a heatsink for intensive thermal contact. The type above is capable of 400V / 50A.

If you intend to use a bridge rectifier (like your suggestion or self made like my suggestion) please note that the ground of your welder will not be the same as the ground of your rectrifier output. The welder will have the output ground same as protective ground at mains. In this case you need to have the power from your prime mover isolated from casing and protective ground.
The bridge rectifier shall have caps at output as well (half the capacity like with single diode.

Please note that caps have a max. current they can stand (datasheet). If overloaded constantly they will explode. In my former company we lost a whole lot of expensive machines at 24h burn in test. Unfortunately the burn in was performed with true and unsolicited fire because of exploding caps in one single PSU and subsequent short circuits by the aluminum foil confetti!

@Lester: If putting welders in series you will connect the protective ground to your DC ground and one of them will get a short circuit.
JohnS

Many Thanks John!

So the 5344 Bridge Rectifier/1000V/40A(If) should work?

I am Installing it at the Secondary Output where electrodes gator/clips were.

Related to Caps I have Two 22000 Uf rated at 85V/Surge at 95
Or I could also have 10/1000 uf/100V

And Yes, connected after Diodes DC (Output)

I am feeding Linear, not pulsed, so just using manual transfer switching.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

Hi Ufo,
this will do fine but please use two 4533 back to back and an aliuminum sheet/ bracket inbetween for heat sink. If available add some means for better thermal transfer.

• Install the rectifier first.
• Add a cap and check the idle voltage at hihgest amp rating at your welder. Then you know the voltage rating required.
• Add as many caps you have available and operate the prime mover idling (short time first). Starting with lowest amp adjustment.
• Check with scope for ripple voltage at cap at different amp adjustments at welder.
• Check with AC amp meter the AC amperage at each connection stub of the caps. None of the caps shall exceed the ripple current spec from data sheet.
  Else: Run the motor in intervals (starting 5 minutes on time) and check the outer temperature of each cap with your laser meter. Increase on time at intervals and recheck the temperature.
• Check temp. at rectifier as well.

Repeat procedure with higher amperage adjust at welder (= voltge)
Repeat procedure with load on gen head.

You may use shortcuts but the main task is to get a feeling at what loads you get problmes with misaligment of componets showing up in terms of temperature.

Let's focus an facts only
JohnS

[Ufopolitics]

Great!!

Hi Ufo,
this will do fine but please use two 4533 back to back and an aliuminum sheet/ bracket inbetween for heat sink. If available add some means for better thermal transfer.

• Install the rectifier first.
• Add a cap and check the idle voltage at hihgest amp rating at your welder. Then you know the voltage rating required.
• Add as many caps you have available and operate the prime mover idling (short time first). Starting with lowest amp adjustment.
• Check with scope for ripple voltage at cap at different amp adjustments at welder.
• Check with AC amp meter the AC amperage at each connection stub of the caps. None of the caps shall exceed the ripple current spec from data sheet.
  Else: Run the motor in intervals (starting 5 minutes on time) and check the outer temperature of each cap with your laser meter. Increase on time at intervals and recheck the temperature.
• Check temp. at rectifier as well.

Repeat procedure with higher amperage adjust at welder (= voltge)
Repeat procedure with load on gen head.

You may use shortcuts but the main task is to get a feeling at what loads you get problmes with misaligment of componets showing up in terms of temperature.

Let's focus an facts only
JohnS

Hello John,

I found some real, real better ones...

http://www.nteinc.com/specs/5300to53...nte5346_48.pdf


More expensive...but I believe they will definitively do it.

Great idea to mount two of them back to back!!

The Welder I've got only have a "MIN-MAX" Current Adjustment switch...and all it does is to add a second smaller coil to Main Secondary One...cheap Chinese crap...!!

This Bridge Rectifiers above...are costing more than the Welder...

Welder:$79.99 USD
BR 5346: $80.00 USD
BR4388:100.00 USD...

Seriously as a Heart Attack...lol


Regards My Dear Friend!


Ufopolitics

[john_g]

Could Thyristors be used?

Hi UFO / John

Could thyristors be used instead? I know they need driving but seem a lot cheaper - apologies if its a stupid thought!

i.e.:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=we...w=1600&bih=685

Regards
John

[JohnStone]

Hello John,

I found some real, real better ones...

http://www.nteinc.com/specs/5300to53...nte5346_48.pdf


More expensive...but I believe they will definitively do it.

Great idea to mount two of them back to back!!

The Welder I've got only have a "MIN-MAX" Current Adjustment switch...and all it does is to add a second smaller coil to Main Secondary One...cheap Chinese crap...!!

This Bridge Rectifiers above...are costing more than the Welder...

Welder:$79.99 USD
BR 5346: $80.00 USD
BR4388:100.00 USD...

Seriously as a Heart Attack...lol


Regards My Dear Friend!


Ufopolitics

Wow! that is a fine guy!
But where do you get those prices? Is there some gold or silver chasing built in? sorry?
See Digikey and find 95% rebate.
Discrete Semiconductor Products | Bridge Rectifiers | DigiKey
(gold chasing missing of course )

Please note that you have 1.2 V forward voltage (loss) at 100A = 120 Watt. So it is not constant load at 100A possible without thorough cooling.
Those guys can be used as mains rectifier as well.

[Ufopolitics]

Hi UFO / John

Could thyristors be used instead? I know they need driving but seem a lot cheaper - apologies if its a stupid thought!

i.e.:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=we...w=1600&bih=685

Regards
John

Hello John G,

Instead I would say it is a smart one...
But the driving -as you've said- is what may set me back here...
Would have to build the sync circuit with feed...

But many thanks...that is absolutely a much cheaper prospect for future testing, and the difference in $ is huge!


Regards John_G


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Yes...

Wow! that is a fine guy!
But where do you get those prices? Is there some gold or silver chasing built in? sorry?
See Digikey and find 95% rebate.
Discrete Semiconductor Products | Bridge Rectifiers | DigiKey
(gold chasing missing of course )

Please note that you have 1.2 V forward voltage (loss) at 100A = 120 Watt. So it is not constant load at 100A possible without thorough cooling.
Those guys can be used as mains rectifier as well.

Yes John, exactly

I do realize the 1.2V Loss...but my intentions are to drive at most 75 A...for testing purposes only.

Actually, the "running Generator without load" takes 40 Amps only...Including the Welder at MAX Current (70 A)

However, as you have written prior, I have to check V there...As I am pretty sure it will drop.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[ewizard]

UFO, 60 Amp 1000 volt rectifier on eBay but it's from Miami, FL so maybe close to you? $7.43. Here: New Diode Bridge Rectifier Model KBPC6010 60A 1000V | eBay

I see lots of 100 Amp rectifiers too on eBay most are 1600 volt but are mostly out of China and most are 3 phase but saw one which is single phase.

[ewizard]

Here's a 100 Amp 1600 volt BR for about $22 Bridge Rectifier 1 Single Phase Diode 100A 1600V QL100A | eBay

Big Heat sink built on it ... but it's out of Hong Kong

[ewizard]

Darn - double post - forum is slow to near dead lately - glitching and hiccuping.

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks EWizard...

UFO, 60 Amp 1000 volt rectifier on eBay but it's from Miami, FL so maybe close to you? $7.43. Here: New Diode Bridge Rectifier Model KBPC6010 60A 1000V | eBay

I see lots of 100 Amp rectifiers too on eBay most are 1600 volt but are mostly out of China and most are 3 phase but saw one which is single phase.

Hello Ewizard,

Thanks for your kind search...but I got the BR already...
It is worth the Money...is a super duty one, very strong casing and I got its sink also.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[warrensk]

Hello to ALL,

I am presenting here the simplest PWM (Pulse Wave Modulator) and Motor Controller that you could build, it is based on the very cheap 555 Timer...and it could work "Safely"with up to 12 Volts...without the need of a Voltage Regulator.

[IMG][/IMG]

This is the circuit I have been using all along in My very First Thread, I just added an LM317 Voltage regulator that is posted in my other Thread, it consist of the Transistor LM317, a couple of Electrolytic Caps and a couple of resistors...and I did it in order to apply a Higher Input that ranges from 24V to 36 Volts...But the basic circuit is this one here.
Timer works in the "Astable" Mode...rendering a very clean Square Wave...
You will need this as a Controller to run from the very small Motors to the Bigger ones...so it is very practical...

Also it will allow by just adding "Two Components" a Non Polarized Cap and a Diode...to make a SEPIC System that will control Input and Output from Machine Gates.

I got this Circuit from: PROJECTS

On:A Pulse Width Modulation Control

I highly recommend this site for other great electronic free circuits as Switching Power Supplies and others...as Gary also sells parts there and the assembled circuits (for those that rather order them)...He is a very nice guy.

I am not saying the other circuits are not good, on the contrary, the LM393 is a great circuit (Mad Scientist)...as it allows regulations of Duty Cycle and Frequencies...As also the great Modular Circuit designed by My Friend John Stone...However, they could become pretty complicated and all we are trying here is to Keep It as Simple as Possible...(note I did not write KISS... )

To all the Members that have replicated my work:...I highly recommend to build this simple circuit...as it is the ONLY way you could see How My Machines Output True Radiant Energy Purple Plasma Sphere of Light...manifested at very low pulses...in the Electrodes of a 120 V Neon Bulb...


...and I know you will love HER...as SHE is the reason why we are getting all this "Phenomena" that many can not explain to be possible...then you all will understand better everything displayed here...as How I found HER originally...

I believe it is a very lovely light you could not miss to see...


Regards to all


Ufopolitics

Hello all,

I am currently building this circuit and was wondering where to put a second potentiometer to control just the frequency.

Also, I got an idea to do a 2-4 channel PWM that pulses in anti phase...So our hot pulse could come in right as the radiant spike comes in from the collapse of the previous pulse ...this could in turn add vectors together (both our hot and radiant going in same direction...) We could find the best duty cycle, then match it in frequency to get the most radiant energy out....I feel that if we add our hot pulses at the right time (same time as the radiant spike comes in) their vectors could add together...maybe resulting in a larger radiant spike. This is something I would like to test....adding minimal amount of hot electricity to swing radiant back and forth through the coil stronger and stronger....An arduino could be used to set up 4 PWM's all firing in sequence till it loops back around to the first FET...just an idea. let me know what you guys think.


Something like this could offer much faster frequencies than the original circuit...

Thanks,

Warren