My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[IndianaBoys]

Hello John, Lester ,All, could this be a good unit to drive motor coils?

Thanks Cornboy.
Attached Files
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...s100h12am1.pdf

Cornboy,

When I click the link, it saves to the computer fine.

Open up the pdf and see all 7 pages.

Maybe related to the overall forum bandwidth issues that have been happening sporadically lately.

As of recent, they have seemed to clear up and able to load pages without hesitation.

IndianaBoys

[JohnStone]

Hi Cornboy,
now the link is ok at my home PC. Wow, never heared of this technology. Unfortunately we can make use of half of this device only. $431!
Singel Mosfet 43$ / 1200V 50A. You are right this seems to be the future technology for power devices.
Well, let's wait up to the moment when we build selfrunners in series and buy for now two Imperial motors first.

[prochiro]

Cornboy
Link is good and has been from go.
Dana

[qvision]

This really is intriguing, this brilliant white in the Neon bulb.

Obviously, as experimenters, it is good for us to question, and even better when we get definitve answers

Tonight i've chatted with a physicist and a few people that know far, far more than I about energy.

I've checked emission spectrum charts.

The emission spectrum for Neon includes red/orange/green and even purple (at 450nm wavelength), but nowhere in the literature does it say that white occurs.

I would like to discount conventional explanations before accepting the unconventional.

The only conventinal explanation i can think of is this.

Even when Neon is emitting the standard orange colour, there is a white glow within it at times, could it possibly be the electrodes at high temperature ?


All the best,

[Cornboy 555]

Expensive.

Hi Cornboy,
now the link is ok at my home PC. Wow, never heared of this technology. Unfortunately we can make use of half of this device only. $431!
Singel Mosfet 43$ / 1200V 50A. You are right this seems to be the future technology for power devices.
Well, let's wait up to the moment when we build selfrunners in series and buy for now two Imperial motors first.

Thanks, Indiana Boys, thanks DANA.

Hello John, yes, they are not cheap, but of course, later down the track when we can order quantity for small production run,WELL!

Regards Cornboy.

[qvision]

Possibly arcing acros the electrodes ?

If it's not eh electrodes glowing white then the last conventional explanation could be arcing across the electrodes, like a miniature Jacob's Ladder ?

It would be good to find a way to test these conventinal explanations, i would LOVE to throw them confidently in the bin and KNOW that it's a different type of energy we are dealing with.

Then again, the chap (i forget who it was) who had the 3V/3 pole motor running on a crappy 6V battery said the battery charged up and was in better condition, and this was with no external power source so that is pretty amazing.

I have some small, brushed DC motors lying around i should get on with some rewinding.

Here's to a Radiant Reality


All the best,

[qvision]

Just found out that Neon can glow white if the charged particles cannot go to ground and the emission spectra for red,green,yellow and blue are all roughly equal.


All the best,

[iankoglin]

Can someone in the US post me a couple of these diodes please ?

I will pay you via PayPal before you send.

Having a real hard time finding anything comparable, apart from this :

DIODE, ULTRAFAST, 16A, 1200V, Part # VS-HFA16PB120PBF | eBay

But it's £35 !


Cheers,

DC.

G'Day qvision
Try this site I have used it to receive goods from US

MyUS.com - MyUS.com - Top Rated Package and Mail Forwarding

Kindest Regards


My friends Call me Kogs

[Lightworker1]

Driving Motor with the Radiant ...

@Lester, Cornboy
Regarding gate voltage:
i.e. IRFP460
Data sheet: 0.27Ohm at VGS 10V and 10A
The FET is rated for 20A permanent or 80A pulsed DC current.
----------------------
The 10V VGS will be suffitient for 60A (0.75Ohm). Above RDSon will increase considerabyl (2.0 Ohm at 80A) up to thermal FET death.
Increasing VGS above 10V will help in the range 60A ..80A to keep the RDSon below 0.75Ohm
-------------------------
Conclusion:
Higher VGS then specified in datasheet:

• will reduce RDSON in highest amp range only and wil not add any contributin in normal 80% load.
• will contribute a small delay at switch off but not reduce speed of switch off
• will reduce switch on a bit IF and only IF the driver can source several amps
• once again keep in mind that ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM RATINGSS do not get rue all at same time. i.e. RDSon is valid for 25°C and will increase with temperature and amps

@ALL: I do not feel comfortable to pollute this thread being dedicated to pulsed coils. I am afrait most of you do not really know on stuff I talk above exactly in this post. We might need to find a solution for this.

@qvision!
Amazing you got this result within short time! These effects are a building stone to be added to UFOs asymmetric motors. In the past one of the members (can't remember who) drove a motor out of this energy and proved to not increase input power.
Nobody can measure the power out of radiant because our meters regard losses in order to interpret them as measurement. And radiant behaves very different. We have no meters for it just now.
Radiant is an effect of switched electrical power. Current science does not regard for it at all except protecting all sorts of electrical equipment from surge and other apparently malicious effects.
The high art is getting this energy interacting with matter in order to use it. You performed UFOs experiment successfully getting HER to interact with matter (neon). This experiment was an introductional tutorial in order make us grasp what stuff his motors make use of.
Thanks for taking the effort in order to read the whole thread! Hat up!
JohnS

Hello JohnStone, @qvision! That was by @Netica

Ufopolitics Project Replication with DC brushed motor. by netica. Video 2

Ufopolitics Project Replication with DC brushed motor. by netica. Video 2 - YouTube

Thanks

warmest regards

light

[Lightworker1]

Hello My Dear Friend,

When I originally started this Thread...I already had this Motors built and running...and I was getting Radiant out from their Negative Generator side, it was a different current than we are used to...but I got HER very "mixed up" with Hot...After I did several testing, I realized at low pulses to motors...where their shafts were barely going a quarter Turn per minute...(almost like a Servo Motor)...then I saw HER stronger...

I added Diodes to the Generator Output...and still saw HER in even more Radiant stages...it was very weird that Diodes were blocking the "Real Hot" according to Meters reading...and I still got HER out...

It was then when I took Motors apart and made Stationary Coils, following same circuit I had...but, not Motoring or Rotation there...I was fascinated by this Phenomena...then "forgot" completely about Motors and started here...with electronics, pulsing and Stationary Coils...

The Thing is...We do not need a Stationary Coil...We have as many as our Motors have inside their Rotors...or in their Stators...Why build a separate Coil?...if we could use the ones are at work as also utilize their magnetic fields swapping to pro-pulse our motors?

The Problem is that once rotor gains speed...the Off Times become shorter at Commutator, therefore, Radiant flickers very dim...but once we set a Mechanical load to Motor...she grows very brightly out...due to RPM's decrease, increases the Off Times, but at very High Charges of Coils (High Peak Voltage Pulses)....then We get those very High Spikes that would even arc against the Brush Brass Housings in our Imperial Motor.

That is why I brought in yesterday that Old Diagram...

Now, the big difference we all must picture here...is that in an Asymmetrical Motor, we have Dynamic Coils, instead of Static...they are moving related to Time and Space, but it is exactly the same thing though.

For example, in Imperial set up,(or it could apply to any other set I have displayed here) we Pulse/Energize/Charge P1 for a fraction of Time, and that creates an automatic Turn Off/Disconnect from Feed...a "Time Off" that travels free until it meets the second nearest Gate (P8 Port in this case)...and there it delivers its Time Off reversed Charges, However, it does it from both feed sides, positive and negative, not like when we were pulsing it steady...with a Positive Source always On...It was then when I came up with the Anti-phase Positive-Negative Drains Pulsed Controller Design...THEN We were pulsing/reproducing exactly the way Motors do it...

Now, going back to Imperial...We have to "see/picture" the Dynamic Coils there following an Endless Spiral Cycle...a sequence of Times On-Times Off, that jumps to next terminal to deliver the "other half" of the Cycle...and if we feed P1 and P15 (180º apart), then we will be picking up their Off Times at Gates P8 and P22 respectively (Note I am referring to Gates, not Pairs of Coils, for reference related to Main Diagram...we have named those ports/terminals as P1, P8, P15 and P22 at the Four Quadrant..even though they are interacting with ALL Coils in the Machine)

If We feed Linear this Motors, and do not "Route/Exit" their "Exhaust Side"...they will be creating an Overflow within the Armature, where In-Out Flow will be colliding with each others, raising the Amperage at Armature/Rotor AND therefore Terminals/Cables.
We do it even more...IF We feed IN, like I did, ALL Terminals Input (P1,P8,P15,P22)...the Collision is then Galore.

So what do we do?

Simple...We go back to that Old Diagram...kind of a Reversed Engineering to our own System...

I will be showing a Diagram about this at the other Thread...since it is directly related to Motor Commutation Works.


Regards


Ufopolitics

Thanks UFO, for your INSIGHTS: Radiant Energy Harnessing in Asymmetric Motors Dynamically.


Each time the Final Goal is getting closer.

Warmest regards

light

[iankoglin]

Ufo requested for his current setup a four phase oscillator.
Post
Post
I threw some components into the circuit and ask for discussion. It is what I intend to build.

The reason for using a microprocessor is because the circuit with logic ICs is lots of wires to draw and one use only. A micro is much more precise and versatile to use.
@Lester: Some suggestions for i.e. snubber circuit? Suggestions for additional protection?
@Nico: Arduino connected correct? What about modified program? Where did you connect your POT / LCD exactly?

TBD:

• 555 NMOS (slow but 200mA source sink at output) or CMOS (fast but 8mA only) - needs to be tested
• Control for dead time and frequency: Pot, digital pot or by simple terminal program from PC (USB)
• Display required?
• Option for current measurements required?
• Use of reset at pin at 555 in order to prevent unintended firing of FETs while program downloed and aother actions.

With some additions (voltge feedback) this circuit can peform as SMPSU - not high end precision PSU but suffitient in order to control the voltage for our loads from battery stack or welder. It depens on your requirements and your setup.

JohnS

G'Day John Stone
I really appreciate all the effort you and others are putting into this thread.
Please John I would like your advice
I want to make another circuit much the same as UFO's happy motor the one I used to run the 250watt chinese motor this circuit is not good enough to run the 1000w ZY1020F motor I have already built the larger coil and I want to make the mosfets switch much better and I am looking at the above circuit I do not want the arduino but to use the voltage regulator into the 555 timer onto the 330 Ohm R6 and from there to a branch of 2 transistors one a NPN and one a PNP I presume are to increase the current to the mosfets.
I looked up the spec sheets for these Transistors as noted 1N2222 and 1N2922 the spec sheets say these are diodes. If they are Transistors can I use MJL21194 and MJL21193 as I already have these on hand I would use a bus for the R7 thru R10 and all the wires to the gates would be like the ones in a power supply a short and also a large bus to the source with all the wires again the same length and like the ones mentioned above, The Drain would be through the heavy heatsink with a heavy wire to the motor.
I want to use 8 mosfets mounted back to back on an angle of aluminium and screwed to the heatsink with a heatsink paste between.
I have a computer fan to cool the heatsink it also has a small circuit to sense the heat and switch it on.

If I was to make it this way would I need to double up with the R7 thru R10

Please I would appreciate Your help

Kindest regards

Still trying to keep up

[JohnStone]

OH Sorry,
1N... are diodes of course. 2N2222 and 2N2907 are the transitors I referred to.
They are rated at about 0.8A current as maximum.
The transistors you suggested might do well. Give them a try. No heat sink required.
I hope you have a scope available in order to verify correct function.

• Every single gate of a FET needs to own an individual resistor for dumping oscilaltions. Solder resitors to gate directly - short leads.
• I suggest to drive not more than 4 FETs (2 pairs back to back) form one transitor stage. All other configurations are minor for driving.
• Position the 555 / transistors in proximity of gates and make wires SAME langth. One individual wire to each FET resistor and one individual GND wire from source pin to transistor GND. Both leads stranded. Use thick wire diameter inorder to ease curretn flow of about 2A.

• Connect one FET first and test.
• Test with load resistor first.
• Procede with 2,3,4 with intermediate test.
• Test cluster with coil and 1 car bulb (H4/H7) in series first because there is no forgiveness at faults!
• Don't expand FETs on this cluster - build a second one.

I will use the same MY1020. Once my motor dyna stand finished I will test it in original state in order to compare to asymmetric properties. That motor sucks up to 40A at start. Last week I switcvhe on the PSU at 48V and the motor jumped from desk to a quite distant place in my workshop. No damage

BTW: where do you get your second commutator? I have a smaller motor out of this family but the shaft is 2 mm less diameter at front side. Back side is identical.

We expect to go beyond those MY.... motors. Therefore I decided now to give the coolMOS FETs a try along dedicated driver. It is not because I need those properties now but I want to build a pulser only ONCE. I posted details above. So everybody shall decide in early stage on his individual roadmap planned on what basic schemtaic to use.

You are ecouraged to ask more questions! I want you as well to get your new pulser running well.
JohnS

[prochiro]

@JohnStone
A lot of discussion has been done about fets and although I understand the basics of operation and circuit development, I still am in a quandary about which fet to use. I am talking about the Imperial motor being run with a capable, solid fet, which will do the job. Cost at this point is not as important as will it do the job although 430.00 dollars is not what I am thinking about. If you know of a fet in the mid range of cost like this, that will do the job, what might that fet be? Also, is there a way , other than adding one at a time, to know about how many fets it will take, as a rough guide? I am trying to set up one large board for this and this information would help to picture in my mind where I am going. Sorry for the stupid questions in advance.
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Do not worry...be Happy...

@JohnStone
A lot of discussion has been done about fets and although I understand the basics of operation and circuit development, I still am in a quandary about which fet to use. I am talking about the Imperial motor being run with a capable, solid fet, which will do the job. Cost at this point is not as important as will it do the job although 430.00 dollars is not what I am thinking about. If you know of a fet in the mid range of cost like this, that will do the job, what might that fet be? Also, is there a way , other than adding one at a time, to know about how many fets it will take, as a rough guide? I am trying to set up one large board for this and this information would help to picture in my mind where I am going. Sorry for the stupid questions in advance.
Dana

Hello Dana,

Please...Do not worry...be Happy...

There are ways to pulse-run this Motor with as low as 9-12-18 Amps...no more need to find huge robust FET's that will handle over 100 Amps...even though is always good to have them handy...for "Turbo Switch Pulsing"...but still not as much...

I am in the process to develop a way to hook up this Motor...and, yes, again, it defies our Physics...

"Coming soon to a Theater Near You"...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

@JohnStone
A lot of discussion has been done about fets and although I understand the basics of operation and circuit development, I still am in a quandary about which fet to use. I am talking about the Imperial motor being run with a capable, solid fet, which will do the job. Cost at this point is not as important as will it do the job although 430.00 dollars is not what I am thinking about. If you know of a fet in the mid range of cost like this, that will do the job, what might that fet be? Also, is there a way , other than adding one at a time, to know about how many fets it will take, as a rough guide? I am trying to set up one large board for this and this information would help to picture in my mind where I am going. Sorry for the stupid questions in advance.
Dana

Dear Dana,
There are no stupid questions but stupid answers only. Everybody who asks wants to get additional knowledge and that needs to be appreciated!
I explained there are two approaches in order to build pulsers and both are an optimum if used conforming their dedication.

555 based with transistors are easy to build and we get components out of our scrap box mostly. No racing car but quite usable. Lowest funds. Lester and I elaborated lots of hints for building. I have nothing to add.

My last schematic posted conforms to a moderate racing car. You must purchase components but fortunately much less and unfortunately some moderate $ extra. Options for monster driver available if required. I myself decided for this circuit because I decided to build one single pulser channel without any need to build another for enhanced use.
The mechanic arrangement I posted here.
Components:
FET:
Infineon coolMOS technologySPW52N50C3 MAX. Data: 560V / 56A / 70mOhm
Calculate to use one for 30A and add another for 60A. Short time in excess of 100A will be viable. It will handle load voltage up to 160V easily. Voltage spikes are dependent on switching speed and coil. So it needs to be tested for higher load voltage. Rise and fall time 30 / 10 ns - quite fast. This is current technology.
Are you AUS located? Your price at farnell will be AU$ 17 each.

Driver:
I do not like to bother with driver capability any more. As we know we need short connections - an IC enables for shortest possible ones. I decided for Texas Instruments UCC family. 27421 /...22
16V / 9A peak / 20ns rise fall time.
Source i.e. eBay: Source USA US$6 + shipping 4.40. You can save money if you buy 4 parts at once.

EDIT: Sory I just detected ym circuit contains some erroneous part numbers.

Signal conditioner:
In my schematic I added a 74C14 in order to feed the driver by a signal with a fast edges (less than 200ns required). We can modify this by a gate and a D FF in order to be able introducing a fast overccurrent feed back.

Opto:
You may add any opto like H11 or SFH617 .... as long you do not intend to go up to 10 KHz and above. Ufo motors do not require such requency.

To be done:
This schematic is a suggestion up to now. I need to have a close look for behaviour at power switch on / off in order to prevent unsolicited activation of the FET.

I have to ponder on using inverting or non inverting components in order to support the issue mentioned above.

I will puchase those components for 4 channesl soon and I will build one pulser stage as demonstrated. Anybody who expects a proven instructable shall wait for my own experience i.e. drawbacks from ringing simple errors and innocence.

Options for later enhancement: Protection from overcurrent and heat and
control by microcontroller

Dana, try to understand the idea behind and decide on how to procede. I am ready to help and will answer your questions.
JohnS

HINT:
In most circuits you see blocking caps for power at ICs like 555, regulators and other locations in the circuit. They are essential! When components switch on and off the circuits consume high amperage for short time. The leads can never deliver this energy because they perform as inductors and thus block very sudden changes in amperage or they generate spikes at switch off. Fortunately caps jump into this gap in order to perform as sudden power stores as long you omit long leads.
Imagine a water closet. In a sudden you require much water in order to flush and therefore we store water in a basin before. Imagine this as being a cap.
Related to our driver: The power consumption is excessive at different places at switching action. This will last up to 1µs. During this time the circuits do not care of their power leads but flush the current out of their basin (cap). It is same like having no power connection for short time - but id doe not matter. It is like you have no water flow to your closet for short time.