My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[iankoglin]

Hi all, whoever can answer, probably John!

S1: Whenever we hook a battery directly to a motor and run it flat out, the commutators do the pulsing to the coils of course and the generator coil gets to harvest the back emf pulse soon after a coils rotates off the motor brushes and gets to the generator brushes. (T/F?)

S2: Inserting a PWM, it controls power input by pulsing the current to the motor. Apparently the monster Pulser has frequency control and pulse width control which will vary the width from 0~ to 100% of any given frequency cycle. (T/F?)

My question is about an idea of synchronizing the the frequency of pulse action with the motor rpm. I am wondering if there is any detrimental action if the pulse action is not in sync with the rpm, more precisely NO MORE THAN one pulse per COMMUTATOR SEGMENT. Wouldn't multiple trailing edges within a commutator segment put radiant energy in a symmetric-type situation where it will be fighting the leading edge, hot electricity pulses?

When you guys are using the PWM now do you operate at frequencies well under RPM x #commutator segements? Imperial has 36? 36x5000rpm=180kcs, as a nominal value.

Does the Monster pulser have the ability to get its frequency setting from a hall switch measuring motor rpm and then get its timing from the motor?

G'Day Sampojo
I remember more than 6 years ago When I first started to be interested in Radiant Energy I was reading Patric Kelly's book on free Energy and his book stated undet the heading "Tesla Switch discussion re Ron Brands Circuit" that if you could switch by swapping 2 banks of batteries (2 is series 24v) and (2 in Parallel 12v)so that the (2 parallel 12v became in series24v and the 2 in series24v became in paralled12v using a PMW and Special Transistors @ 500 Hertz there would a continuous flow of electrons that would build up along the battery wire that would run a DC motor at a higher voltage than what the battery that is being switched was and therefore the battery would not lose any of its capacity. I imagine this is exactly what UFO has shown us with his happy motor as it was run with a 36v battery running through a PWM and Mosfets the Radiant energy being produced by the switching on/off of the hot Energy coil collapsing and the Radiant energy being harvested/directed by the fast acting diodes in reverse to stop the hot flow and allow the radiant to continue on through the cold coil and on there to the output/Load whether it be a Motor or CLF bulb or whatever you put there as a load My Testing showed to me that the load would run cold and that by changing the duty cycle The time on of the PMW that I could get from 5v up to more than 90v while still only drawing 200ma from the 36v battery.

So I imagine from this that pulsing the motor using this type of circuit does not necessarily have to correspond to the switching of the commutator as at this switching speed the motor would only see the volts and respond accordingly.

As Most of you know that work is something that you have to do between what you really want to do and at the moment I am tied down with a job and when that is finished.
I will start up my "My Happy Motor and take some measurements using my 2 DMM's set in duty cycle mode one before the diodes and one after the diodes just before where the load is taken off to see what the difference is.

Kindeat regards


Just thinking as per usual

[Cornboy 555]

Great.

G'Day Sampojo
I remember more than 6 years ago When I first started to be interested in Radiant Energy I was reading Patric Kelly's book on free Energy and his book stated undet the heading "Tesla Switch discussion re Ron Brands Circuit" that if you could switch by swapping 2 banks of batteries (2 is series 24v) and (2 in Parallel 12v)so that the (2 parallel 12v became in series24v and the 2 in series24v became in paralled12v using a PMW and Special Transistors @ 500 Hertz there would a continuous flow of electrons that would build up along the battery wire that would run a DC motor at a higher voltage than what the battery that is being switched was and therefore the battery would not lose any of its capacity. I imagine this is exactly what UFO has shown us with his happy motor as it was run with a 36v battery running through a PWM and Mosfets the Radiant energy being produced by the switching on/off of the hot Energy coil collapsing and the Radiant energy being harvested/directed by the fast acting diodes in reverse to stop the hot flow and allow the radiant to continue on through the cold coil and on there to the output/Load whether it be a Motor or CLF bulb or whatever you put there as a load My Testing showed to me that the load would run cold and that by changing the duty cycle The time on of the PMW that I could get from 5v up to more than 90v while still only drawing 200ma from the 36v battery.

So I imagine from this that pulsing the motor using this type of circuit does not necessarily have to correspond to the switching of the commutator as at this switching speed the motor would only see the volts and respond accordingly.

As Most of you know that work is something that you have to do between what you really want to do and at the moment I am tied down with a job and when that is finished.
I will start up my "My Happy Motor and take some measurements using my 2 DMM's set in duty cycle mode one before the diodes and one after the diodes just before where the load is taken off to see what the difference is.

Kindeat regards


Just thinking as per usual

I would love to see that Kogs, please do, when it suits you to do so.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[Hitby13kw]

Please correct download link in post 1871

Hi friends,



Download

• Download, start it - it will unpack automatically.
• The program file for Arduino xxx.ino shall be uploaded into Arduino nano, uno ... via Arduino programming environment.
• Set the virtual com port to COM9 as the PC programm uses it as default. Port number can be changed but I did not try it yet.
• PWM-Out at Ardunino is pin 9
• No furhter HW at Arduino required but those 4 buttons provided by Nico are supported as before.
• The folder contains PC-Program. The file with red "P" icon is the corresponding Application program.

JohnStone

Just starting to play with the Ardunino and Nico’s GEN program myself, so would be very interested to see your modifications to control it via a PC.

quick FYI, the download link you provided in post 1871 returns a (404) Error.
Can we request you Please correct,
not sure but the issue might be you need to share that folder in your dropbox.

Thanks again for all the wonderful incites you have provided to UFO’s work.

Hitby13kw

[JohnStone]

I do not know what happened. It is a .ZIP file unpacking itself to two directories - one for ardunio file and one for PC control program. I generated it again and here is the new link. I tested it and it works but Windoze warns the file to be dangerous. BTW: Does dropbox reject zip files?
I add a second link where the file is a .txt file. I hope this is not voted to be dangerous. After download you should rename it to .zip.

One again: This is a basic test file and contains some flaws. I wait for Nico to forward some program repair. But he is just now overloaded with his job so please be patient. He surely will help ASAP.
JS

[Hitby13kw]

New links work - Thanks !!!

I do not know what happened. It is a .ZIP file unpacking itself to two directories - one for ardunio file and one for PC control program. I generated it again and here is the new link. I tested it and it works but Windoze warns the file to be dangerous. BTW: Does dropbox reject zip files?
I add a second link where the file is a .txt file. I hope this is not voted to be dangerous. After download you should rename it to .zip.

One again: This is a basic test file and contains some flaws. I wait for Nico to forward some program repair. But he is just now overloaded with his job so please be patient. He surely will help ASAP.
JS

Thank you JohnStone,

Both of your new links work great, now have the Nico_JS_GEN_v0.01.zip file & Nico_JS_GEN_v0.01.exe

Fully understand that Nico has not approved, will proceed with caution, still learning what we can do with an Arduino.

Your quick reply was most helpfull, many thanks

hitby13kw

[JohnStone]

Thank you JohnStone,

Both of your new links work great, now have the Nico_JS_GEN_v0.01.zip file & Nico_JS_GEN_v0.01.exe

Fully understand that Nico has not approved, will proceed with caution, still learning what we can do with an Arduino.

Your quick reply was most helpfull, many thanks

hitby13kw

Thanks! That's great! My idea is to let Arduino perform those tasks it can to well and let contols to be performed by PC. One main task of this pragram team is to enable us taking data into a spread sheet for delibarate valuations like filter, graphs, comparing....
JS

[prochiro]

@ JhonStone & nico

John, when I gave you the 4us rise and fall time, I thought that this was actually the fet measuring. It is the time the Arduing takes when using the digitalWrite command. To use that method causes all sorts of unneeded background activity and does take 4us. To get around that, use the info at the following address.
Marking Time | Dr Dobb's

Dana

[Hitby13kw]

Marking Time

Thank you Dana for finding this link !!!!

To use that method causes all sorts of unneeded background activity and does take 4us. To get around that, use the info at the following address.
Marking Time | Dr Dobb's

Dana

So it seems per this text that a 600ns pulse is the shortest that the Arduino can deliver,
well within the limits of the JohnStone Monster FET driver, and an order of magnitude better than your earlier post.
Wonder if the best way to use this insite would be after a preset number of cycles through Nico's code (to allow the motor to come up to speed) then a quick

PINB|= _BV(5); // to toggle
or
PORTB|=_BV(5); // to set
PORTB&=~_BV(5); // to reset

each pass through the loop to bring HER ( Radiant ) in

one more thing to put in the 2B tested pile,

hitby13kw

[kEhYo77]

quickly pulse using hardware registers

quickly pulse output directly using hardware registers:

    bitSet(PORTB, PinNo - 8);  //turn on
    bitClear(PORTB, PinNo - 8);  //turn off

Much faster than digital write as it takes only 1 clk cycle to run it to turn the output Pin on/off.

Pins 8 through 13 are on register PORTB, and pins 1 through 7 are on PORTD

[Donald Haas]

Getting aquainted with the Monster

Hi All,

Keepin' on.

I bread boarded the Monster driver and used my combination Mad Scientist/ Les 44 pulse generator to feed it.

If I input 6.2v to the gen cct it seems to produce adaquate sq waves.

I'm powering the two regulators with a lap top psu. 18v.

I noticed that the fets that came from Hong Kong appear a little different then the same part number from Mouser.

I have been testing with one of each wired as the pair for the driver cct.

They seem to perform about the same, heat wise. I did begin to have a problem when I was just 1200watts of light bulbs at 100v.

The wave form begin to show problems and the heat on both fets rose to 140+deg F, so I shut it down.

I'd rather not try to perfect the Bread Board version, but just build with the JohnS lab notes on a pad per hole board and stay with that.

I was very good for me to get more aquainted with the circuit on the Bread Board so we'll move on.

I bought 6 3oow 120v bulbs to test with.

I might as well rectifiy the house current 120v ac and then I will have plenty to draw from for pushing the fets. Up to 1600w.

On another note I have been having quite a learning curve with machining a shaft for my tread mill motor mod.

Will get it in time.

Thankyou all for being here.

bro d

[JohnStone]

Regarding FET driving:

1200W / 100V should not make FETs hot if filaments lighting bright. (12A). But if they glow dark red there might be considerably more current but not 100A.
There is no shortcut available: the FET stage needs to be mesured with bulb lighting bright and moderate current: check for oscillatins and check for switching speed.

~o0o~

Do not worry about smallest pulse from Arduino. Do not confuse switching speed with pulse length. We will not require 600ns pulses. Concern is to have fast switching speed at FET even if we pulse with 100Hz only.
Of course if I have high switching speed I could theoretically operate at high frequency - but it is not necessary and not intended. Imagine hitting a nail with a hammer. Every single impact shall be strong and distinct independently on how soon I repeat.

~o0o~

@Kogs: Tesla switch is told to perform with DC motor as load only. Still obscure on how it really works. I am convinced it relates strongly to matters like impedance and "adapting source to the load" (N. Tesla). Such items are known in RF electronics. We need to watch much wider areas than before.

~o0o~

[prochiro]

@ Donald and All

Hello bro, glad to see you are learning and testing. I would strongly suggest that as John mentioned, create the Monster as complete up to the fets. That part is stable to drive anything. Then create a board for each pair of fets as John showed in example. This way each time a fet goes, you will not loose the whole thing. As time goes on, the fet stage may change some, so it will be easy to update. That fet stage must have the protection diodes attached or pooooof. John is correct about not needing a strong pulse level from the generator. The most important thing is steady, easily changed, exact control and exactly square edges. I have good results with pulses as low as 2.8V but 3.5 is more normal. All we need is to get some voltage thru the opto and then boost it there. I have found the best wave comes from the Arduino using the internal timers (which is tough to learn unless you use the exact Arduino that was suggested for everyone), as each board has different code required for the timer control. I have mastered the leonardo and the atmega2560. The atmega2560 was about a week in study but I got it and when used with the four buttons gives exact edges from 1Hz to 10KHz. It will go higher with some additional work. The best thing is you have a LCD reading at every level of frequency and Duty cycle. If you use a four line LCD you can also monitor temp of fets or any other thing you need. I put a heat sensor on one fet and get exact temperature readings on line three. Cool. If fets get hot, an interrupt can shut the system off. This is handy for research work. You will not need that high of voltage as John said. Stay on it and we will get there as UFO mentioned. I believe that John will not rest until those fets are cool. One other thing to remember is that without a matched coil to balance things we will not get premium function.
Dana

[JohnStone]

There are three reasons for FTEs getting hot:

1.Oscillations at gate and/or drain. These can be tested with resistive load only. Those spurious oscillations perform multiple HF ON/OFF cycles and thus add at every transition another chunk of heat. It can not be tested with coils added because a coil being switched surely will oscillate itself and will eventually hide spurious oscillations of FET stage.

2. Poor / slow switching quality. Check with resistive load as well. Cause usually wiring issues.

After you have done your home work at item 1 and 2 you can calculate real operating conditions.

3. High current.
Calculate 2 FETs in prallel with 0.04Ohm RDSon each -> should give 0.02Ohm. Unfortunately we need to calculate twice resistance in order to account for AMPS and temperature -> 0.04 OHM @100A gives 4V at DS leg. -> 400W!!! -> 200W each FET.
It needs to be tested out how many FETs we can drive with monster driver. Given we have 4 FETs in one stage will produce 100W per FET for heat dissipation.
For heavy duty we need to add good heat sinks and FANs.
The figures above refere to 100% duty. If we decide for 50% duty cycle we can get half amount of heat to disipate.
Conclusion: Do not expect the FETs to work cool at any condition you apply. Think first!
JS

[boguslaw]

I strongly feel that to get any visible effect we must go below 0.020 ohm like Ismael Aviso was teaching us. (I'm working on something else (solid state device) but the idea is the same). It means as John described , a lot of amperes.
is your driver able to switch bank of mosfets so fast that every one is opened in the same moment ? so far I plan to use Arduino with optocoupler with mosfet driver and 10 fets. what do you think about that idea ? maybe you can use it too look again at Aviso videos at his bank of IRF840 fets

[JohnStone]

Switching clusters of FETs:
One serious implication at FETs is they contain an internal capacitor of about 1nF at gate leg. Adding other capacitive effects we have to account up to 8...10nF at each FET for driving.
As everybody knows a capacitor is being charged by current. If we require fast switching we need to provide more amps within the given time slot.
Calculated at quite ideal conditions under load and 12V drive voltage and 12A drive current:
2 FETs (20nF): 50ns for charge voltage of 11V
4 FETs (40nF): 100ns for charge voltage of 11V
8 FETs (80nF): 200ns for charge voltage of 11V

Please note:

• The figures above relate to charging of the gate capacitance. We need ot account for oether effects - so take the time above twice.
• Discahrge will take more time.
• Switching time enteres linearly into heat generation
• More FETs will spread to a longer area on heat sink -> longer leads -> slower switching and possibly spurious oscillations.
• connect leads to gate symmetrically (same length) and provide a GND lead back to GND of driver of same length
• Use bus bars of heavy copper for connecting FETs

Please understand there are not general instrucables to crowd FETs. You need to know your setup and be able to check for proper function.
JS


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