My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[lerameur]

my three coils

Thanks for your time UFO,
here is a picture of all three coils.
They wound clockwise
the resistances are:
Big coil: 0.65Ohm
Medium coil: 0.85Ohm
small coil: 0.6 Ohm
19Awg gauge.

This is more then 200 turns. The two bigger coils has 200 feet and the smaller has 150 feet. these length are for individual coils.
The Resistance for the big coil was taken with the the individual coils hooked together as seen on the picture.

Joel

[Ufopolitics]

Missing Diagram...

Thanks for your time UFO,
here is a picture of all three coils.
They wound clockwise
the resistances are:
Big coil: 0.65Ohm
Medium coil: 0.85Ohm
small coil: 0.6 Ohm
19Awg gauge.

This is more then 200 turns. The two bigger coils has 200 feet and the smaller has 150 feet. these length are for individual coils.
The Resistance for the big coil was taken with the the individual coils hooked together as seen on the picture.

Joel

Hello Lerameur,

They look nice...but you forgot to give me the diagram of your connections...

Here, I made the way it supposedly goes...

[IMG][/IMG]

The Polarity is set according to how you have your diodes connected there...All Coils must display their South Pole on Top.

One question...that is "Black PVC" as the core...and you are sure it does NOT Contain Carbon Fibers??

Regards


Ufopolitics

[lerameur]

The connections is exactly the way you showed, sorry about not putting that on. Thought you wanted a schematic!
I am so not sure if there is or not carbon fiber...
I guess i should find another 2 inch tube to test it on/with ?

Joel

[Ufopolitics]

The connections is exactly the way you showed, sorry about not putting that on. Thought you wanted a schematic!
I am so not sure if there is or not carbon fiber...
I guess i should find another 2 inch tube to test it on/with ?

Joel

Hello Lerameur,

Great, and that it's ok...I figure them (connections) out...
Sometimes they use Carbon fibers to strengthen material...and if they are crossed, they will kill Radiant Field...However, IF, the First Coil works fine and have same material as core...then, that is not the issue here...

I see/read you are using Bifilar and Trifilar wound Coils at the "Not Working Ones"...are they -hopefully- parallel connected?..not meaning how are they wound...but connected at end terminals.?


Ufopolitics

[lerameur]

Maybe My english is not great. But all work at certain degree. But I cannot get to see is:
1) the greenish light from the CFL, I am seeing on some of the videos on the forum (youtube)
2) I get no output beyond 500Hz, I mean the light is extinguish
3) I get the feeling I am not getting radiant in because, if I stay at lower frequency and play around with the duty cycle, The longer the dutycycle the stronger the light.

I am going to find some two inch plexiglass tubes, but that was all I could find nearby my house. I have some strong cardboard roll, but they are 3 1/4 inch OD. too big. I'll see what i can find at the dollar store tomorrow.

Joel

[Ufopolitics]

Maybe My english is not great. But all work at certain degree. But I cannot get to see is:
1) the greenish light from the CFL, I am seeing on some of the videos on the forum (youtube)
2) I get no output beyond 500Hz, I mean the light is extinguish
3) I get the feeling I am not getting radiant in because, if I stay at lower frequency and play around with the duty cycle, The longer the dutycycle the stronger the light.

I am going to find some two inch plexiglass tubes, but that was all I could find nearby my house. I have some strong cardboard roll, but they are 3 1/4 inch OD. too big. I'll see what i can find at the dollar store tomorrow.

Joel

Joel,

The greenish light at CFL's...You will not see it with your own eyes...but only on videos, slowing then down, or framing pic by pic...as it only happens at a fraction of time, not distinguishable by Human sight...and it is JUST at the beginning when radiant starts coming in...


I asked You on my previous post, How are Your Bi-Filar and Tri-Filar Coils terminals connected?

Parallel or Series?


Ufopolitics

[lerameur]

HI UFO,
O sorry I missed that,
They are all connected in parallel

Joel

[Ufopolitics]

2) I get no output beyond 500Hz, I mean the light is extinguish

Joel,

Do You mean 500Hz at Hot or Cold side?

Do You have Two Frequency Meters on, like I recommended?...One at Hot side and another at Cold, is the way to monitor IF You are getting higher frequency after diodes (Radiant side) like you are supposed to get.

3) I get the feeling I am not getting radiant in because, if I stay at lower frequency and play around with the duty cycle, The longer the dutycycle the stronger the light.

Try hooking up a 120V Neon at Radiant side...then start dialing Up slowly the duty cycle from zero...very slowly and watch if you see a purple very bright ball of light, bouncing around electrodes...at very low pulses only...DO NOT GO HIGH...IF color of light is only Orange.

I am going to find some two inch plexiglass tubes, but that was all I could find nearby my house. I have some strong cardboard roll, but they are 3 1/4 inch OD. too big. I'll see what i can find at the dollar store tomorrow.

Joel

I do not think it is the cores/tubes...I wrote it -also- before


Let me know after you do this tests



Regards


Ufopolitics

[sampojo]

Getting Down on the MD5 circuit

Some Questions on the MD5. I have labeled it with the areas I have questions:
MonsterDrvrV5_labeledpost_zps801874a5.jpg Photo by sampojo | Photobucket

1. Q1: Does each Schmitt Trigger get encased in this circuit?
2. Q2: Where do Schmitt Triggers IC4a and IC4b fit?
3. Q3: Is this +, power out and GND (-)? IN the BOM, lines 34,35: 34 K2 K1X02 1X02 connector pitch 2.54 / 2 posts 35 K3 K1X02 1X02 connector pitch 2.54 / 2 posts?
4. Q4: Is K3 just 1 (0f 2 posts in a 2-prong connector, and K3 is the other, or is this still a total of 4 poles, 2 + and 2 GND? If the latter, is this just an extra connection to be used as circumstances may require?
5. Q5: What is VGEN, where does it go?
6. Q6: Are these used with the Arduino connection?
7. Q7: Are Opto A, B the PWM hookups, as maybe with the Nano outputs D3,4(pins 6,7)?

For Q6, I see resistors in this diagram from JStone P54 Post1610. I assume Opto A,B are similar?




Planning to use tools from ExpressPCB, shematic and CAD programs provided for customer prototyping, saw prices 5 PCBs/$35.

[lerameur]

Update

Hi UFO,
I am going to run the test this week, been very busy and I started a new job today and I have a lot of reading up to do.
Also I was able to remove the bearing and commutators off the shaft. I need time during the day to bring at a shop where the guy is willing to freeing put it in the oven for me

Joel

[sampojo]

I found an answer I think

Q2: Schmitt Triggers A & B are extra/ not used? 74HC132N is a Quad DIP with a total of 4 triggers.

When I get my schematic and CAD board layout together using ExpressPCB, I will post the files. Then anyone can order the PCBs using their software. Probably get 3 MD5 prototype boards estimating in $50-100 USD range. Layout is coming along...

[prochiro]

@ Sampojo
I see you may be looking at different versions and getting confused.
Those diagrams were confusing for me and are not complete as per version 5.1-prerelease PDF is. I would set up the parts as per the latter file shows and hook her up. If you want a cad file for T3000 I can send it to you. T3000 is free and easy. the file there is ready for sending out to production.
Easy, easy, easy.
Dana

[sampojo]

Just used the 1610 post dgm

@Dana

to try to get how to hook up the Arduino PWM pins to the MD_5.1 board. Don't see what that R2 is doing on input connector...

Edit post 1974: I meant to say Opto A,K not A,B...

Yes interested in those CAD files, sent you a PM.

[prochiro]

@ Sampojo
JS put the R2 in as an if you need it type of thing, I think. I have not used it and taken it out of later of my versions. If your are talking about the opto setup, from your Nano PWM pin 6 goes to the opto pin on the lower left in the diagram I sent you. Then from the Nano Neg. pin goes to the opto lower right pin. When using more negative leads than the Nano actually has, at first set up a small Plug in board to use as a terminal for all the negatives to combine. for example you have negatives from each of the three pots, one for each Monster circuit (4), and at least one more as common ground to your battery. So at the minimum, you need 8 negative pin locations but the Nano only has 2.
Now the Nano also only has one 5V output so I recommend at first also do the same for the positive pins as you need at least three pins there for the pots.
I have set a project board on top of the Arduino into which I put both positive and negative female pin rows as well as mounted the pots.
For now just do one circuit and get it down. Feel free to ask for help anywhere. I think that if you know how to etch a PCB that would be the place to start but for the cost, getting a few from professional dealer is good. If you do get them made please send me at least a printed photo or T3001 file so I can double check so you get what you want.
We actually should get JS's circuit made up as it is in the 5.1 PDF to spread around for testing in more places. I think I will draw it up with larger wires and get some soon. After testing then we could all order from that place what each of us need. These boards are easy but have held us up for too long. It is not possible to improve them unless we all have the initial setup running.
Dana
Dana

[iankoglin]

Dana's replication of JS's Monster Driver

@ Sampojo
I see you may be looking at different versions and getting confused.
Those diagrams were confusing for me and are not complete as per version 5.1-prerelease PDF is. I would set up the parts as per the latter file shows and hook her up. If you want a cad file for T3000 I can send it to you. T3000 is free and easy. the file there is ready for sending out to production.
Easy, easy, easy.
Dana

G'day Dana
I like your monster driver setup circuit
I have not been able to find any T3000 file of this circuit
Please could you send me your T3000 file of it I would appreciate it
I would like to make a copy
I have purchased a "PCB Fab in a Box" it works great
Kindest Regards

Back at it again