@ Kogs
Congratulations and well done. Sorry about the diodes, will explain below.
@ All
JS is the expert on circuits here and all I am saying here is subject to his correction. I have vary bad eyes and had severe problems soldering a circuit with the extreme small size presented in the PDF. I also had several of the small copper lines burn and they are hard to find and repair. Sooooooooo, I enlarged just a bit and added much wider copper everywhere. I remembered that JS wanted us to send each fet in and out to a large buss and not combine them before getting to that buss. Sooooooooo, I really enlarged my copper at the pads and built up1/16 to almost 18 inch solder so the pads acted as a buss and held capacitance. The capacitance is a big issue some have forgotten. After having some diagnosis trouble, I put a two pin disconnect after the resistors going to the fets. Later I found that four boards was hard to handle at one time so I put the lower part of the circuit up to the fets on one board and all the fets on another. Bolting these two board together with two bolts made one board of the mess. By being able to separate the upper from the lower also gave me ability to work on the fet area and not mess up the lower part as well at fast diagnosis. After populating the boards I covered copper with all the solder they would hold.
This was not my first board as I made many before that and this is why I recommend that when you order an expensive board, you first etch it and make it work. These two boards actually cost me under five dollars to create minus the parts. I used one 12x12 inch clad on one side to do it. I got 15 of these on ebay for 45 dollars here.
5 Kepro Circuit Systems 12" x 12" Single Side Copper Clad Circuit Board | eBay
That is enough to make 20 sets of Monsters and the boards are vary strong. Two times stronger than any I have seem. When you guys put your circuits in motor vehicles or bikes, keep this in mind.
Kogs, I use 18 volts because I am using four sets of regulators at one time. Each regulator, when on, takes away mote than a volt. If you put in 12 volts, with four regulators you may end up with much lower than 12 volts at fets which will not hit them hard.
These diagrams I am presenting here are not the final product as we are in experimental stage. I see in the future a small purchased board which may be quite different than this. It does work and work well with NO weakness or problems anywhere. I present these as a starting point for your own builds only. The copper in the lower part does not need to be this heavy but the fet stage really does need this sort of structure.
This is the lower part, up to fets;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nnky7wtkck...erUPTOFets.jpg
This is the fet stage;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cb0y8t5bux...onsterFets.jpg
I show multiple circuit here but you can separate at will.
Hope this helps some as we need many of these working in every country of the world.
Dana
Congratulations and well done. Sorry about the diodes, will explain below.
@ All
JS is the expert on circuits here and all I am saying here is subject to his correction. I have vary bad eyes and had severe problems soldering a circuit with the extreme small size presented in the PDF. I also had several of the small copper lines burn and they are hard to find and repair. Sooooooooo, I enlarged just a bit and added much wider copper everywhere. I remembered that JS wanted us to send each fet in and out to a large buss and not combine them before getting to that buss. Sooooooooo, I really enlarged my copper at the pads and built up1/16 to almost 18 inch solder so the pads acted as a buss and held capacitance. The capacitance is a big issue some have forgotten. After having some diagnosis trouble, I put a two pin disconnect after the resistors going to the fets. Later I found that four boards was hard to handle at one time so I put the lower part of the circuit up to the fets on one board and all the fets on another. Bolting these two board together with two bolts made one board of the mess. By being able to separate the upper from the lower also gave me ability to work on the fet area and not mess up the lower part as well at fast diagnosis. After populating the boards I covered copper with all the solder they would hold.
This was not my first board as I made many before that and this is why I recommend that when you order an expensive board, you first etch it and make it work. These two boards actually cost me under five dollars to create minus the parts. I used one 12x12 inch clad on one side to do it. I got 15 of these on ebay for 45 dollars here.
5 Kepro Circuit Systems 12" x 12" Single Side Copper Clad Circuit Board | eBay
That is enough to make 20 sets of Monsters and the boards are vary strong. Two times stronger than any I have seem. When you guys put your circuits in motor vehicles or bikes, keep this in mind.
Kogs, I use 18 volts because I am using four sets of regulators at one time. Each regulator, when on, takes away mote than a volt. If you put in 12 volts, with four regulators you may end up with much lower than 12 volts at fets which will not hit them hard.
These diagrams I am presenting here are not the final product as we are in experimental stage. I see in the future a small purchased board which may be quite different than this. It does work and work well with NO weakness or problems anywhere. I present these as a starting point for your own builds only. The copper in the lower part does not need to be this heavy but the fet stage really does need this sort of structure.
This is the lower part, up to fets;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nnky7wtkck...erUPTOFets.jpg
This is the fet stage;
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cb0y8t5bux...onsterFets.jpg
I show multiple circuit here but you can separate at will.
Hope this helps some as we need many of these working in every country of the world.
Dana
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