My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Turion]

I have not been trying to make-design a motor here...but just to demonstrate there is absolutely No "Single" Collapsing field Story teller any more...
There are "Collapsing Fields" on and off...where the cause for changing polarity an Inductor is due to the Radiant Opposite Field coming up...

Regards

Ufopolitics

Ufopolotics,
I posted your quote and the following on our 3 Battery Generating System thread:
"If you caught what he is saying and what he is trying to demonstrate in his videos...That what we have called CEMF in motors is the response of the radiant to the EMF. We put a charge into a motor which is EMF. It creates the electromagnet and then collapses, and the radiant creates and sends an opposite polarity charge right back at us, which we have called CEMF.

And I believe with a standard DC brushed motor wired between two positives like we are doing, that this radiant pulse escapes the motor, hits the supply (primary) batteries, and charges them. And that is the spike we see on the scope that is higher than the battery voltage (or an over voltage spike)."
Dave Bowling

[Netica]

Hello Netica,

Yes because of your description I figured the Power Supply was not responding "on demand" when Higher requirements are set by the whole system.

I really can not see why you are so stuck with the voltage regulator system!!, I have even thought you may have the LM 317 connected in reverse related to Input-Adjustment legs (The two on sides)...We all know that center is Output, however the basic confusion is at the A and I legs...This transistors are "resettable" they hardly go bad unless fried...by a very high voltage exceeding its max values (36V)
It shouldn't heat up that much (I mean LM317 heat up...it is normal...) unless doing long times at high peaks (full blast)...Do you have it on a Heat Sink?
It also seems like you have not enough Capacitance response in your power supply...meaning, your Electrolytic Caps ain't working right somehow, either are not good, or are connected the wrong way.
The little caps (2.2 and 10 uF) as the 1000 uF are very important to this regulator, makes it more 'robust'...I mean there are only like 6 or seven components total here...
My only mistake in the latest Update was the resistor parallel to diode to be 220 ohms instead of 2.2 K...just the one to ground is 2.2 K...but the rest is identical to mine, and it is working perfect.
So, my only conclusion here is that you, are connecting the LM317 the wrong way...check it out again...slowly...easy...
also check the Caps at the regulator...connections and conditions...
The other thing is...What batteries are you using?..LiPo's?...How many Amps?
The Batteries am using are Fully charged 37 Volts, totaling 6.6 Amps (2200 mA each pack out of three that have around 12V ea)

Good luck...and please do it carefully, I am waiting very enthusiastic to see those Neons bright up your skies there...

Cheers

Ufopolitics.

Hi Ufo,

I have rebuilt the regulator to the latest specifications you have laid out and it works well, works at around 13.7v, I've also used a larger heat sink and temp is not bad.

The only problem is the same thing is happening with the drop off in power to the coil. I have done all the checks with the regulator and it is supplying a constant voltage and amperage without a problem. Supplies to a higher load separate to the circuit as well.

I have measured the voltage to the gate of the mosfets and have found it to be the same as before. Max I can get is just over 5v and quickly drops off to a max of around 2.5v.

The batteries I am using are 3*12v gel cells. I have tested them all individually with 2 halogen bulbs at 70 watts total with no problem.

What do you think could be the problem? Maybe its something to do with one of the components in the 555 circuit.

I can light the neon for a few sec. before it goes out.
I couldn't help connecting a dc motor up to try. It spun it up but as soon as it reached speed the power drops off.

Thanks for help
netica

[wingstalysis]

Schematic Please kind Sir!

Greetings, UFO,
Koolio, most appreciated your kindness. Here is a web address HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : LiPo, LiFe, NiMH Battery>Turnigy Lipoly I located here in the UK that has chargers and Li Po. Would you have a quick gander and let me know at your convenience what you would choose from their Thunderpower Li Po and charger range for my project. My present LiPo are only 1c 2200ma. Also explain what you mean by stabiliser. I understand what you are suggesting to a reasonable degree. When you get the time would you make a quick drawing so I do not make any costly errors in the wiring up etc. Only if you have a spare few moments. Thanks again Bro' for your sharing.Nuclear video on proving Radiant Energy. Can I Email you from this Forum or otherway, as I have something important to ask you, not valid to this thread, which I would appreciate your input on. You have a no worry day.

Love and Honour.
Wingstalysis

Hey, Ufo,
Hope you are having a no worries day. Thanks Bro' for your kindness in answering this RE newby. I realise sometimes it may be somewhat frustrating having to deal with individuals not unlike me. I am with your assistance getting up to speed, but, it will take time for sure as this RE area is very sophisticated and is only really for the gifted. Yeah! Ufo, I feel somewhat intimidated by you due to this. However, I realise this is my problem not yours, for you really put yourself out to explain things in great detail. My humble request is: would you please kindly show the detailed schematic drawing of how I should wire up this, as I am somewhat confused, especially with regard to how charging when accelerating, when you also mention the LiPo charger?and want so much to be successful with applying your ideas, as I know others here are determined to do so as well. Lastly, Ufo, and this is also very important: the diodes you show connected to the new coils for back emf and protection from the Hot--quote: The Diodes should be the lowest resistance than the IN4000 family (rated @600 Ohms)...I use the NTE576...rated at 400 Volts and @400Ohms. besides being a bigger body diode...however, I have Blown them with low voltage input but RE feed back spikes when Load was 'demanding too much' ...but there are many available that would do the job, Fast Switching is very Important! Thus Ufo which safe fast diode do we use which will not blow? what are there part numbers and/or specific Type, Ratings of I and v etc? I want to buy these all important diodes for inclusion.

Thanks in advance Ufo,
Take it easy, and stay frosty,
wingstalysis

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Ufo,

I have rebuilt the regulator to the latest specifications you have laid out and it works well, works at around 13.7v, I've also used a larger heat sink and temp is not bad.

The only problem is the same thing is happening with the drop off in power to the coil. I have done all the checks with the regulator and it is supplying a constant voltage and amperage without a problem. Supplies to a higher load separate to the circuit as well.

I have measured the voltage to the gate of the mosfets and have found it to be the same as before. Max I can get is just over 5v and quickly drops off to a max of around 2.5v.

The batteries I am using are 3*12v gel cells. I have tested them all individually with 2 halogen bulbs at 70 watts total with no problem.

What do you think could be the problem? Maybe its something to do with one of the components in the 555 circuit.

I can light the neon for a few sec. before it goes out.
I couldn't help connecting a dc motor up to try. It spun it up but as soon as it reached speed the power drops off.

Thanks for help
netica

Hello Netica,

Ok that sounds right on regulator now!!...yes voltage should be somewhere there...13.7 V

Ok, without the Coil on, or Diodes (my set up)...could You try a regular DC Brushed Motor right off the Drain and the Positive?...let's see what it does.

Test it for High speed, starting slowly from very low pulses. You have said you tried a motor , but I am assuming it was with the Coil and diodes...

I am assuming you have same "Tank Circuit" (RC) at 555 , which is the two 1K and in the middle the 250K Pot...plus the ceramic Cap of .01?

What is the Amperage of each battery?

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Ufopolotics,
I posted your quote and the following on our 3 Battery Generating System thread:
"If you caught what he is saying and what he is trying to demonstrate in his videos...That what we have called CEMF in motors is the response of the radiant to the EMF. We put a charge into a motor which is EMF. It creates the electromagnet and then collapses, and the radiant creates and sends an opposite polarity charge right back at us, which we have called CEMF.

And I believe with a standard DC brushed motor wired between two positives like we are doing, that this radiant pulse escapes the motor, hits the supply (primary) batteries, and charges them. And that is the spike we see on the scope that is higher than the battery voltage (or an over voltage spike)."
Dave Bowling

Hello Turion,

I am sorry I have been busy and only answering to typical problems and questions related to my post here.
I have not had the time to go over your other thread related to the DC Motor and three batteries, could you add here the direct link to it...I do not promise it would be very soon , but I will give it my best of time stretch to go there.

According to what you're saying here ...

"...And I believe with a standard DC brushed motor wired between two positives like we are doing, that this radiant pulse escapes the motor, hits the supply (primary) batteries, and charges them. And that is the spike we see on the scope that is higher than the battery voltage (or an over voltage spike)...."

Ok, a regular DC Brushed Motor will receive a "pulse" through the brushes-commutator contact elements to a group of coils...that configure a N-S-N-S around the armature or rotor (This is looking it in a fraction of a second that takes one single pulse). This N-S-N-S are "flashed" related to the stator which is also in an order N-S-N-S, so there would be a series of repulsion-attraction processes between them...so next "pulse" the ones that were N now are South... and so on...
This kind of processes are "too fast" for Radiant Energy EM Field to develop enough strength...it will just "flash a spike" to your system...called CEMF...
In order to gain RE Field, We, with all this specific oscillators, coils and diodes...still have to "Tune Her In" along a process of invoking from low to higher increases of frequencies over a period of time...

Resuming, and according to what you have described above...yes you are getting Radiant Spikes...but is being suddenly cut off by the reversed polarities of incoming Motor sequences...no time to develop properly...

Regards

Ufopolitics


By the way... I love your slogan's below...

[Turion]

Ufopolotics'
Here is the direct link to our thread.
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...ng-system.html

I do not mean to jump into the middle of your thread. I just wanted folks to know that what you are saying about those spikes from the motor is real, and it shows up on the scope and as increased voyage in batteries. It is not a fluff charge either, because I have pulled those batteries out of the system and run loads on them. They had both voltage AND amperage. I have seen it charge batteries from 0 to 12 volts in seconds. REAL voltage. It is amazing stuff when you see it happen.

Dave

[Netica]

Hello Netica,

Ok that sounds right on regulator now!!...yes voltage should be somewhere there...13.7 V

Ok, without the Coil on, or Diodes (my set up)...could You try a regular DC Brushed Motor right off the Drain and the Positive?...let's see what it does.

Test it for High speed, starting slowly from very low pulses. You have said you tried a motor , but I am assuming it was with the Coil and diodes...

I am assuming you have same "Tank Circuit" (RC) at 555 , which is the two 1K and in the middle the 250K Pot...plus the ceramic Cap of .01?

What is the Amperage of each battery?

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

The motor test I have mentioned was as you thought with the coil and diodes.

I have now done what you suggested and connected the motor straight to the drain and positive in place of the coil.

Test #1 - I put the setting to full on and switched on the circuit. The motor speeds up then after a few seconds the speed drops off and it stops.

Test #2 - I put the setting on low and switched on the circuit. You can hear the motor coil vibrating but it doesn't move, as I turn it up the vibrations increase but motor doesn't move even up to full as the power to it from the mosfets drops off. This is doing it real slow more than a few seconds.

The power drops off in a few seconds whether on high or low, on low it doesn't get enough power to run unless I turn it up quick, If I do it within a few seconds it speeds up then it drops off.

I have the circuit as the diagram with the two 1K resistors on each side of the 250k pot. I have two 10n (103) or .01uf ceramic capacitors one from pin 5 to ground the other from pin 2 to ground.

The batteries are 7ah.
I tested before and after a charge with exact same results.

Thanks
netica

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Ufo,

The motor test I have mentioned was as you thought with the coil and diodes.

I have now done what you suggested and connected the motor straight to the drain and positive in place of the coil.

Test #1 - I put the setting to full on and switched on the circuit. The motor speeds up then after a few seconds the speed drops off and it stops.

Test #2 - I put the setting on low and switched on the circuit. You can hear the motor coil vibrating but it doesn't move, as I turn it up the vibrations increase but motor doesn't move even up to full as the power to it from the mosfets drops off. This is doing it real slow more than a few seconds.

The power drops off in a few seconds whether on high or low, on low it doesn't get enough power to run unless I turn it up quick, If I do it within a few seconds it speeds up then it drops off.

I have the circuit as the diagram with the two 1K resistors on each side of the 250k pot. I have two 10n (103) or .01uf ceramic capacitors one from pin 5 to ground the other from pin 2 to ground.

The batteries are 7ah.
I tested before and after a charge with exact same results.

Thanks
netica

Hello Netica,

Ok...so your oscillator is not doing its job at all,

At least we have now a good Voltage Regulator working good...

This Oscillator is actually a controller for motors...so it should run motors perfectly , I mean brushed motors, not BLDC (Brushless DC),
So there is something wrong in your oscillator part. Your MOSFET's are OK.

Netica, do me a favor...

Make a diagram STRAIGHT from your own circuit, meaning, do not even look at mine or at any other diagrams...right from your real prototype, make it and post it here...so we could see it openly and I could go over it like if I would be looking at your real set-up...

I guess that is the only way we could solve this matter from a distance or remotely...

Thanks


Ufopolitics

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

One thing I found is that I left out the 12v MOV component, between pin 4 and ground. I don't know if this will make any difference though.

netica

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

I have found a mistake that I have made with the tantalum capacitor, I didn't know that they are polarized, I have checked and found it has pos to ground,
it is also only rated at 35v so may not be high enough, although I don't know if they can go over a few volts. I'll make the changes tomorrow and see what happens.

netica

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

I fixed the mistake with the capacitor it's now 50v and polarized correctly. I rebuilt a new circuit to be sure.
I have tested it with a DC motor and it finally works.
I have measured the voltage at the gate and it goes from .06v to 11.3v.
I tried it on the coil, it goes but not with the magnetic power I thought it would. Not like if you connected it straight to the batteries.
I checked the frequency and found it wasn't what I expected, at the low end it it was a bit up and down, I found it mostly around 360 to 460 hertz. The old circuit did the same and was part of the reason I built another.

I connected the coil and the neon for a first test. And this is what I found.

The neon flashes a little at the low end then goes out.
As pot is turned up the neon first lights quite dim then as you turn it up it gets brighter. The circuit was stable for the first time so I could set it where I wanted and turn it on and off at any brightness.

I set it at a reasonable brightness to take some readings of power consumption of the coil.

Voltage was 3.35V
Amperage was 0.5A
That gives us 1.67 Watts.

The neon warmed up when it was on.
It is a 240volt neon rated at 24 watts.
Its hard to relate brightness but I would expect it to be a little brighter in normal use but still a pretty good result I thought.

Also the regulator was running at 38V and .015A thats another .57 Watts.
Still pretty good for 24 watt neon.

When a metal tubing core was placed inside the coil the brightness dropped by half.

Thats it for now.
netica

edit: the neon I have been mentioning was actually a floro, sorry about the mix up.
edit: the voltage on this test will be inaccurate because I have found that my meter cant keep up with the frequency.

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Ufo,

I fixed the mistake with the capacitor it's now 50v and polarized correctly. I rebuilt a new circuit to be sure.
I have tested it with a DC motor and it finally works.
I have measured the voltage at the gate and it goes from .06v to 11.3v.
I tried it on the coil, it goes but not with the magnetic power I thought it would. Not like if you connected it straight to the batteries.
I checked the frequency and found it wasn't what I expected, at the low end it it was a bit up and down, I found it mostly around 360 to 460 hertz. The old circuit did the same and was part of the reason I built another.

I connected the coil and the neon for a first test. And this is what I found.

The neon flashes a little at the low end then goes out.
As pot is turned up the neon first lights quite dim then as you turn it up it gets brighter. The circuit was stable for the first time so I could set it where I wanted and turn it on and off at any brightness.

I set it at a reasonable brightness to take some readings of power consumption of the coil.

Voltage was 3.35V
Amperage was 0.5A
That gives us 1.67 Watts.

The neon warmed up when it was on.
It is a 240volt neon rated at 24 watts.
Its hard to relate brightness but I would expect it to be a little brighter in normal use but still a pretty good result I thought.

Also the regulator was running at 38V and .015A thats another .57 Watts.
Still pretty good for 24 watt neon.

When a metal tubing core was placed inside the coil the brightness dropped by half.

Thats it for now.
netica

Hello Netica,

I am very glad you have solved the problems!!, well the Oscillation problems...

Ok, let's go by "parts"...

..I tried it on the coil, it goes but not with the magnetic power I thought it would. Not like if you connected it straight to the batteries...

Straight to the batteries?...Well, You are supposed to be connecting it straight to the 38 Volts output from Drain (negative) and Positive from batteries...this does feed batteries but with pulses ...
What Gauge on Coil?...How many turns?

.."I checked the frequency and found it wasn't what I expected, at the low end it it was a bit up and down, I found it mostly around 360 to 460 hertz. The old circuit did the same and was part of the reason I built another..."

Frequency at INPUT was 360-460 Hz, right?...How about OUTPUT Frequency (After Diodes to Lamp)?

..."When a metal tubing core was placed inside the coil the brightness dropped by half..."

What kind of metal?...why tubing and not solid core?...My first test was on a very solid piece of heavy steel...remember?

The Air or Tubing Cores are for other kind of oscillations....Dual Anti-phase Channels...You've just finished the Single Channel Oscillator to run properly (I guess)...So, no, it is supposed to be on a solid core...and it is suppose to increase light if everything else is fine...

I believe there is something wrong there still, when going up from low hertz...100 to 200 Hertz on INPUT...from Oscillator the neon was supposed to give you the small ball of purple light coming up down...did it do it?
It is supposed to...till you gain more frequency it goes into regular illumination, but brighter...I have used 120 Volts Neons, not 240V.

However I think you have done a lot of progress so far, and I am very glad!!

Cheers


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

I have got the time...

Ufopolotics'
Here is the direct link to our thread.
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...ng-system.html

I do not mean to jump into the middle of your thread. I just wanted folks to know that what you are saying about those spikes from the motor is real, and it shows up on the scope and as increased voyage in batteries. It is not a fluff charge either, because I have pulled those batteries out of the system and run loads on them. They had both voltage AND amperage. I have seen it charge batteries from 0 to 12 volts in seconds. REAL voltage. It is amazing stuff when you see it happen.

Dave

Hey Turion,

I watched your video...and also your friend on same project.

Now, I get a vision of what you are talking about...and yes, I do understand it well what is going on there...

The Motor is a PM Brushed motor, as you have written in your posts...well, even another type..a Motor have "closed contacts" , meaning closed circuit, continuity at all times you connect it between potential...and those contacts lead to the Coils disposed inside...
Ok, what you have there is a Motor that when it is connected to the three batteries it acts like an Inductor...when NOT running, I meant...so, when the Positive from old battery is "Less Positive" or the same as "More Negative" than the Positive from the Source Batteries...it builds enough potential to develop a magnetic field inside the motor, strong enough that allows rotation...And, of course, the more loads you add to the Batteries at Source...the more "Negative" the Positive from used battery will be...so this will create a heavier EM Field on Motor...accelerating it...
Now, Radiant will flow and charge the battery...remember Radiant-Cold runs opposite to Hot current...so at the "More Negative" Positive of Hot will be Radiant Positive...and that is what charges your battery...

Actually the Old to be charged battery, works in this circuit like a Non Polarized Electrolytic Capacitor...and Your Motor is at Off (idling) as an Inductor Coil...till it starts running.

Remember there is either "Excess or Lack of electrons" what determines which one is "Positive" or "Negative"...all "relative" concepts my friend. There is always a "More positive than"...or "More Negative than..." in any electrical-electronic equation.."

Just something else I just remember...Your friends video adds a very heavy mechanical load on that motor...and then it gains power at charge up...this is completely logical...when He is loading the motor ...it slows RPM's, therefore there is more "Time On " per Coil inside motor. so more time for Radiant to flow out...
This motor is running on Linear source...not pulsed...however the commutation inside makes it "pulse"...when rotating.

To convince yourself of what am talking about...set just a Diode between the Motor and the Old Battery positive terminal...blocking positive from Battery to motor, and allowing Negative to flow instead , but allowing incoming Radiant Positive from motor to battery...and let's see what happens.

Cheers


Ufopolitics

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

As best as I can measure the frequency at the output with no coil connected is all over the place.

Turning from low to high
It starts at 480 goes down to 200 up to 350 down to 270 all in the first less than quarter turn then the rest slowly goes up to 470.
The first circuit I made done the same thing and I built a whole new one with all new parts except the mosfets and resistors connected to the mosfets.
So I can't run it at 100 hertz

When connected to the coil the voltage goes up from 0 to 34.

The coil is .9mm diameter thats around 19AWG and is 6ohms
I think theres around 1200 turns

I don't know the type of the tubing I used however I also tried transformer material with the same dimming effect.

netica

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

I have tested the mosfets with a separate voltage to the gate to see how the coil energizes through the mosfets without the circuit.
And it was quite powerful magnetically much more than with the circuit.
And the neon flashes with each disconnect.

netica