My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[chalamadad]

Hey,

I've been trying to replicate Romeros selfrunning wheel for some time now. I havn't got it selfrunning obviously (Romero released further information about how he did it), but what I have might share similarities to what ufo is presenting.

Let me explain: I am pulsing what originally is a driving coil in my setup with a NPN transistor with the help of a hall sensor. The hall sensor is placed close to the coil and seems to pick up the coils magnetic field resulting in fast oscillation. At this time my input drops from around 1A to 100mA (15V in) but the coils voltage is 60V peak to peak at a frequency of about 200kHz (well above audible range) measured with a scope!

Now with the two diodes method I've got my motor running very efficiently. Maybe just a little more than 1 watt input. I am using two fast switching Schottky diodes to collect the oscillation output. I connected the diodes like shown in this thread (thanks to ufopolitics). I am feeding the output to a second driving coil which is creating one spike to just overcome the drag. The second coil is also catching some of the oscillations from the first coil.

Happy with the result. I've made a short video.

Thanks ufo for a possible explanation and especially your free sharing, it is clear now that our minds keep blocking us from what's possible. We are trapped on the hot side and in our conventional way of thinking. Know-it-all attitude is bull****. People are getting demotivated by this kind of crap. Everybody can contribute and everyone is welcome. People should work together and show respect for each other. We would go well beyond more rapidly.

Chal

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Ufo,

As best as I can measure the frequency at the output with no coil connected is all over the place.

Turning from low to high
It starts at 480 goes down to 200 up to 350 down to 270 all in the first less than quarter turn then the rest slowly goes up to 470.
The first circuit I made done the same thing and I built a whole new one with all new parts except the mosfets and resistors connected to the mosfets.
So I can't run it at 100 hertz

When connected to the coil the voltage goes up from 0 to 34.

The coil is .9mm diameter thats around 19AWG and is 6ohms
I think theres around 1200 turns

I don't know the type of the tubing I used however I also tried transformer material with the same dimming effect.

netica

Hello Netica,

Number one- Your Coil is too small of center diameter. Too small for Radiant Energy Field to thrive over an overwhelming outer field from Hot. Have to widen the center to -at least- 30 mm.
Forgot to tell me the length of coil, but I imagine with 1200 T of 19 AWG...is pretty long unless it "grows" in diameter.

Did You look at my last video?
DEFINING RADIANT ENERGY FIELD (Part 1) - YouTube

It shows VERY CLEAR that Radiant Energy is located, exactly, at center of Coil.

.."I think theres around 1200 turns.."

You have to be "Sure" how many turns you have, That's TOO many turns....Too much Resistance..
Are You using an Inductor already made for this test?

Originally I gave the spec's of my original Coil Diameter...close to two inches core Internal Diameter...I also gave the amount of turns (120 X 3 Layers of 18 Gauge, that means a Total of 360 Turns) that is around one quarter of the Total turns "you think" your coil have... and I really do not understand , if You are "replicating" something, How come could you do it with so much difference between my spec's and "still" expect to render same results as mine??

The Output frequency is meant to be read WITH COIL ON...and , of course Diodes also...otherwise it will be crazy...
Once you have set up your diodes on...and you start oscillating without a LAMP or load at the other end....it will result in overheating of your MOSFET's and the whole circuit.

.."I have tested the mosfets with a separate voltage to the gate to see how the coil energizes through the mosfets without the circuit.
And it was quite powerful magnetically much more than with the circuit.
And the neon flashes with each disconnect..."

You still have something wrong with oscillations going to Gates...It should do exactly the same thing by turning the Pot slowly...exactly the same thing as when you manually "disconnect it"...flash the neon and have lots of power (magnetically) on Coil...

Check on the Gates Biasing circuit with resistors to ground, I believe they are 47 K each one from gate to ground...It seems your circuit is NOT making a full disconnect of MOSFET's at T-Off...If you had a Scope you should be able to read that "Drop Off" what it looks like...it should be "COMPLETELY" vertical down...otherwise it will not work out...
MOSFET's needs a resistor to ground from Gate, (N-Channels) that is what makes them turn off completely when 555 signal is High, as a spring in a Relay, otherwise they will "dim" voltage, or create a triangular wave...never Off completely. Now, if you are using the SAME MOSFET's I specified then the biasing resistor Gate-Ground is the same as mine...any other MOSFET's I have no idea which value resistor will turn them off completely.

I am trying to help you Netica, but if you "assume" your own spec's, then I have double work...dealing with the typical errors in your circuit, plus trying for you to stay also with the spec's I gave a long time ago...it will take Us a pretty long time that I do not really have...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hey,

I've been trying to replicate Romeros selfrunning wheel for some time now. I havn't got it selfrunning obviously (Romero released further information about how he did it), but what I have might share similarities to what ufo is presenting.

Let me explain: I am pulsing what originally is a driving coil in my setup with a NPN transistor with the help of a hall sensor. The hall sensor is placed close to the coil and seems to pick up the coils magnetic field resulting in fast oscillation. At this time my input drops from around 1A to 100mA (15V in) but the coils voltage is 60V peak to peak at a frequency of about 200kHz (well above audible range) measured with a scope!

Now with the two diodes method I've got my motor running very efficiently. Maybe just a little more than 1 watt input. I am using two fast switching Schottky diodes to collect the oscillation output. I connected the diodes like shown in this thread (thanks to ufopolitics). I am feeding the output to a second driving coil which is creating one spike to just overcome the drag. The second coil is also catching some of the oscillations from the first coil.

Happy with the result. I've made a short video.

Thanks ufo for a possible explanation and especially your free sharing, it is clear now that our minds keep blocking us from what's possible. We are trapped on the hot side and in our conventional way of thinking. Know-it-all attitude is bull****. People are getting demotivated by this kind of crap. Everybody can contribute and everyone is welcome. People should work together and show respect for each other. We would go well beyond more rapidly.

Chal

Thank You Chalamadad!!

Thanks for posting here your positive results based on my original set up...I am very glad you have gotten it running better than ever before!

Also thanks for the grateful words...most people don't "come back" to express them here along with results, where they originally got the ideas...and get "lost"...like many have debuted (landed) and then exited here like a UFO leaving the Galaxy...

Thanks again

Ufopolitics

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

Unfortunately I have not been able to get the circuit to work properly, I haven't been able to get the frequency to work correctly, I don't know why so I have put it aside for now and built this one RMCybernetics - DIY Homemade Power Pulse Controller
I hope this circuit will be good enough. Could you let me know what you think. I have got this going first time, with this you can adjust the frequency and the duty cycle.

I tested it with a bulb and dc brushed motor and it seems to work well. I connected it to my coil and the 555 and comparater blow after a few pulses, I have simply replaced them for it to work again but this will need some sort of circuit protection. If there is something I could do to protect the circuit could you please show me, although it may be ok when I try it with the coil you have specified to build but I don't know yet.

Don't be to bothered about me using the wrong coil I was just using something I had lying around to try the circuit out. Now I have something working ( or at least quite close ) I can start work on the coil.
I will try to make the coil around 50mm inside diameter. I would like to know how close the steel core needs to be to the coil. I intend at this time to wind the coil on a plastic tube then put a core inside. The core will likely be some sort of mild steel if that is ok. How much gap can I get away with for it to work, or does the coil need to be wound straight on to the metal core.
I will be using 19AWG is that OK ? it is .1mm smaller diameter than 18AWG.
Does it mater if it is wound clockwise or counter clockwise?
I will wind continual 3 layers 120 turns each layer.

Please don't get to upset with me but I just couldn't get that circuit to work after building it twice I just don't know why. I don't mean to waste any of your time, and always appreciate your help and advice. And if you think this new circuit will not be any good please let me know.

Thanks Netica

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Netica

Hi Ufo,

Unfortunately I have not been able to get the circuit to work properly, I haven't been able to get the frequency to work correctly, I don't know why so I have put it aside for now and built this one RMCybernetics - DIY Homemade Power Pulse Controller
I hope this circuit will be good enough. Could you let me know what you think. I have got this going first time, with this you can adjust the frequency and the duty cycle.

I tested it with a bulb and dc brushed motor and it seems to work well. I connected it to my coil and the 555 and comparater blow after a few pulses, I have simply replaced them for it to work again but this will need some sort of circuit protection. If there is something I could do to protect the circuit could you please show me, although it may be ok when I try it with the coil you have specified to build but I don't know yet.

Don't be to bothered about me using the wrong coil I was just using something I had lying around to try the circuit out. Now I have something working ( or at least quite close ) I can start work on the coil.
I will try to make the coil around 50mm inside diameter. I would like to know how close the steel core needs to be to the coil. I intend at this time to wind the coil on a plastic tube then put a core inside. The core will likely be some sort of mild steel if that is ok. How much gap can I get away with for it to work, or does the coil need to be wound straight on to the metal core.
I will be using 19AWG is that OK ? it is .1mm smaller diameter than 18AWG.
Does it mater if it is wound clockwise or counter clockwise?
I will wind continual 3 layers 120 turns each layer.

Please don't get to upset with me but I just couldn't get that circuit to work after building it twice I just don't know why. I don't mean to waste any of your time, and always appreciate your help and advice. And if you think this new circuit will not be any good please let me know.

Thanks Netica

Hello Netica,

I believe that circuit is the one Kaper brought over here to Us. I like it, however it is more complicated as the one (mine) You were trying to replicate...and still it needs the Voltage regulator.
It uses a separate Comparator than the 555 intrinsic one, and I guess it performs better as an isolated, dedicated for that purpose component.
I have not tried that circuit, but I do want to build it, I also made some comments about adjusting it to Dual Channels...by using the other comparator Input-Output B.


I am not upset Netica...I just feel unable and helpless to be able to help you achieve a good oscillator.

The core could be with a plastic one (I use Fiberglass cores that I make myself , using as a mold the steel bar I am to use...and also PVC tubing...) then you could "enhance" its magnetic properties by adding the bar of steel, heat it up to red flaring (500 to 700 F)...and cold water...to make it loose its magnetic memory, and isolate it from the rest of any other outer core that could bring flux from your oscillating pulses electromagnetic field. So, just make the steel bar the same length of Coil, not expanding , sticking out of Coil limits.
The steel bar should be as close as possible to the walls of your plastic inner walls...but have some "play", a very small air gap, so it could slide in-out easily.

It really does not matter how you wind it, as long as you know the magnetic orientation and where the positive-negative terminals goes to make that happen,...and write it down on the core. That is very important to be sure, when it comes to set your diodes opposite to the flow of your pulsed current.

I always mark Positive and North next to it, when I start to wind up a Coil, on the top, going Clockwise...Now, that is my "Hot Positive" current coming in from oscillator...Then Diode on that Positive goes like:
(+ Hot) l< To Radiant Negative...and Negative terminal of Coil : (- Hot) >l To Positive of Radiant.

If you have no idea where positive or negative goes to make upper North or South pole...then how are you gonna set the diodes?...and how would you be able to test that inside the core there is a magnetic field of opposite polarity?
Besides also knowing where is your induced current in a Secondary...but that is not your case...so let's keep it simple for now.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[thugugly]

oscillator

hi netica,

use your circuit from rmcybernetics, just isolate the fet with it's own powersupply. I'm using a jfet from a projection tv, rated at 72 amps and 500v, .15us., I built circuit for my Don Smith attempt,

IMAG0157.jpg

ufo,

I built your circuit and it lit four 125 volt neons very brightly, a placed a 10 nf, 400v cap on cold side of diodes and it was much stronger.
5.2 watts ( 10.4 v, .5a) input, (380v, .003a)1.14 watts on cold side. But the cool part is it lights on the cold side very brightly, I fried one by itself.

I do not have a scope (yet), sorry.
I only have red neons so I can't make out the purple glow.

tried a silver core with two rolls of silver dimes but not much different maybe a little better light.

Will try your double coil next, and I will get a fan motor to try.

Also am gonna try this in Don's circuit when I get a chance.

Thanks for your info ufo, also would like to build your little motor with the led, that was very smart, well done.

thug

[bbem]

555 frequency

@thugugly or ufo
What is the frequency the 555 needs to generate?
I tried several frequencies such as 270Hz and 330Hz.
The lamp is flickering but I do not get the radiant energy in..
Bert

ps. I adjusted the 555 circuit since I couldn't find a 250k var. resistor.

[thugugly]

bbem

Now I'm using a 2 nf cap which should have a range of about 1 khz to 85 khz, but it also worked with a 220 nf which should of had a range of 10 Hz to 600 Hz.
My measurements were taken with the 2 nf.
Sorry, but I can't tell you the exact frequency, no scope.

Thug

[thugugly]

bbem

You must have an old vcr or something around that you could hack for a variable resistor.
There everywhere!

Thug

[bbem]

@thugugly and ufo
Thanks for the info/help.
Glad that your circuits are working!

With the PWM driver of UFO we can manipulate the duty cycle at a fixed frequency (286 Hz?).
Since I changed the var. resistor (to 100k) and couldn't reproduce the effect, I was looking for the exact frequency of UFO's/your circuits.
Note: I am using diodes with 48ns recovery time.

Bert

[Ufopolitics]

Great, I am very glad!

hi netica,

use your circuit from rmcybernetics, just isolate the fet with it's own powersupply. I'm using a jfet from a projection tv, rated at 72 amps and 500v, .15us., I built circuit for my Don Smith attempt,

[ATTACH]10566[/ATTACH]

ufo,

I built your circuit and it lit four 125 volt neons very brightly, a placed a 10 nf, 400v cap on cold side of diodes and it was much stronger.
5.2 watts ( 10.4 v, .5a) input, (380v, .003a)1.14 watts on cold side. But the cool part is it lights on the cold side very brightly, I fried one by itself.

I do not have a scope (yet), sorry.
I only have red neons so I can't make out the purple glow.

tried a silver core with two rolls of silver dimes but not much different maybe a little better light.

Will try your double coil next, and I will get a fan motor to try.

Also am gonna try this in Don's circuit when I get a chance.

Thanks for your info ufo, also would like to build your little motor with the led, that was very smart, well done.

thug

Hey Thug,

That was great!!
I am glad you have improved the circuit with the Cap with better results!
But mainly, thanks for coming back here and sharing your results with Us.

You could try the motor right off the primary also, and will notice a smooth acceleration as you tune up.

Also measure your consumption at the Input.

Just one question, what are your Coil spec's?...gauge and turns and resistance?
You are using pretty low voltage at input, so, should compensate Coil spec's accordingly.

Great, I am looking forward to your new testings!

Thanks, that little motor proved that there is NOT just ONE field, but TWO, another one of opposite direction-timing, and of much stronger effect, as well as showing there is an Induction in static mode, due to the changing fields, as it made Us understand Radiant "space" a bit better.

I am working on reviving-re-designing an old motor-generator from Nikola Tesla...but adapting this diodes set-up.

That was smart to add the Caps, it helps retain radiant in your cold side, great improvement!

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

@thugugly or ufo
What is the frequency the 555 needs to generate?
I tried several frequencies such as 270Hz and 330Hz.
The lamp is flickering but I do not get the radiant energy in..
Bert

ps. I adjusted the 555 circuit since I couldn't find a 250k var. resistor.

Hello Bbem,

Unfortunately, you need a Pot, a Variable resistor to "Tune" Radiant In.
Radiant does NOT just come in at a given static-fix frequency, it depends on your set-up, and everyone is different, now, once you have Radiant on, then measure frequency and then it could be brought in at that specific one.

Radiant comes in as you increase frequency, you will be able to find the "right starting spot", the range where Radiance starts coming in your circuit, and then move forward to obtain brighter-higher gain results.

Until we find a perfect square wave design as progression and shape goes, it has to be tuned in.

You will get Radiant, don't be disappointed!!

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[bbem]

@Ufo
Thanks for your swift reply.
I am using a variable resistor (multi turn) of 100k.
Was thinking that I needed to use a specific frequency.
My guess is I need to find the answer in the proper choice of MosFET and diodes.
Bert

[Ufopolitics]

100k V.r.

@Ufo
Thanks for your swift reply.
I am using a variable resistor (multi turn) of 100k.
Was thinking that I needed to use a specific frequency.
My guess is I need to find the answer in the proper choice of MosFET and diodes.
Bert

Hello Bbem,

Ok, a 100k linear not the "audio" type...
And if you use that resistance value, then you should play with higher than 1K end resistors between V.R...
I will give you a hint...but please do not tell anyone here...

I use trimmers (small variable resistors, board mounted) as the resistors side to side of V.R Pot...and I adjust them at the right resistance, before turning ON the system!!...BUT NEVER below 1K!!...or you will blow the 555 IC...

I mentioned this "hint" in a previous post...there are no secrets here.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Measure Hertz with a Meter?

bbem

Now I'm using a 2 nf cap which should have a range of about 1 khz to 85 khz, but it also worked with a 220 nf which should of had a range of 10 Hz to 600 Hz.
My measurements were taken with the 2 nf.
Sorry, but I can't tell you the exact frequency, no scope.

Thug

Hello Thugugly,

I have two Extech digital meters that measure Hertz...and also two Radio Shack's Amperage Clamp meters...that do it also...you do not need a Scope.

They are not that cheap though...Extech's go for like $100 ea...and RS around $50.00...but much less than a Scope

Cheers


Ufopolitics