My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Ufopolitics]

Hello ZPE!!

Hey UFO,

I just wanted you to clarify what the main circuit variables you want all to replicate are?

The simple PWM circuit with a 555 timer is all people need to replicate your experiments with the neon as I did. Therefore, is there a prerequisite for the circuit voltage that you wish?
12V is fine to fire an NPN transistor but when I used MOSFET's and stepped up to 24-36V I had to use the LM317 to regulate the voltage to the 555 timer.
I have more parts in the mail (hope the NTE products from the US) and if so I will make up a a new PWM circuit with the LM339, or LM393 (8 pin for N-channel FET's is all we need as other side of the LM339 is not used) and then can run at higher voltages without regulation. Do you have a preference for your circuit?

And do you want me to post circuits? My test circuit is very close to your original set-up.

The Radiant effects I have replicated from this post appeal to me more than charging batteries do and have done this daily for the last year. With these Radiant anomolies that create plasma effects may be an outside experiment . Would be more than I hit batteries with SSG/SS SSG voltages. (only 400-600V with output disconnected at 12V input)
Running lights on pure Radiant cold electricity reasonates with me.

Analysing the still frames from the Radiant event my conclusion is, Radiant starts oscillating in the two legs as plasma, frequency increases (as seen on DMM on the cold side of the diode) then we obtain the Radiant gas seen in the neon as a white centre with green gas outer shell, Radiant will increase potential between the neons legs creating the purple plasma effect at the correct frequency/oscillations, next we obtain the white flash with orbs seen coming from the metal leg/s in the neon and a finally the red aura is seen at the brightest moment generated from the outside of the neon bulb.
This is the way I see the effect and how the digital camera managed to record these anomolies (we only see the Green gas and purple plasma effect with our eyes)

Can you confirm this from your experiments?

P.S - Discharging capacitors with the stored Radiant energy will generate these same properties. However, the plasma is not contained like in the neon and will appear in the frame as the Radiant gas appears. (if you have the camera a certain distance from the discharge) This is ALWAYS before current flow if you obtain this cold energy in the output.

Regards
Zero

Hello ZPE,

I just wanted you to clarify what the main circuit variables you want all to replicate are?

The simple PWM circuit with a 555 timer is all people need to replicate your experiments with the neon as I did. Therefore, is there a prerequisite for the circuit voltage that you wish?

ZPE , honestly, I would not like to play the "Boss" roll here...or a "Guru", like someone called me already...

I really love the innovations...or to get "The Best" out of the whole thread, like Bob did...and make it happen!!
I am still using the old 555 timer...I have bought the (2) LM393...and also the LM339...I have all components but...have not found time yet, and I know it is much better than the one I have...
I have been working hard on the Motor set-up lately...and in the videos...they both take more than my extra time...plus writing-reading here...lol
The 555 have the inconvenience I can only accelerate up to a point...after that it turns almost linear...not good!...I can not adjust duty cycle either...so I must make the LM set up...I want to build two, one with several N-Channels and just one Drain out...and the other one usin Cinan's double N-Channels to obtain dual anti-phase channel drains on Positive-Negative...However I am going to wait for that till Cinan burns some Mosfet's first...

Now, You DO have studied that purple light very close, don't you?!...It seems you are trying to "Glorify that light"!!??...
Be careful, my friend!!...someone could come over and accuse You on "glorifying" that purple light!!

HA HA HA HA...LOL

Regards my friend!!

Ufopolitics

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Anti-Phase

As Ufo said, better way how to get more radiant in, is to have two side driver. I've posted this schematics earlier and its simplest way how to do if with N-FET
or IGBT. Output will be totally isolated from source and we should get more radiant in.... I don't have time to test it now, but next week will be back and do some experiments.

Regarding circuit, its very simple driver and could be connected to any generator source. Input voltage pulse max. 15VDC !

Sorry Ufo, but I don't want to do it with P - FET

There exist Bedini version vith NPN / PNP and you can find it here : Is this the first selfrunning overunity motor w/o batteries ? Mike?s motor

I have also another idea how to separate HOT / COLD generation of pulses and it should have significant hot current drop effect.... Need to do experiment....

cheers,

Cinan

Cinan,

Thank you for your electronics knowledge and expertise. I am fairly ignorant of these things, so your circuits and suggestions are very valuable to me. You and MadScientist have made this possible for me. Thank you.

This circuit is so small on my screen and when I blow it up it gets blurry. How can I view it better? It looks like the next logical step. I can' t make out the components and there appears to be 6 wires going in and out. I guess that would be 2 for power in, 2 for output (w/ an end of the coil), 1 for timing, and 1 for one end of the coil. (?, just guessing?) Perhaps it would work for me if you posted it on Photobucket. (?)

If you could help me get a clear copy I would be grateful.

UFO,

Nice looking rotor. Can't wait to start into the motors (hopefully with CF windings!!!).

How does the copper wire directly to the acid in a battery work? What drives charges to the plates if their not in series with the system, but just beside it all, just touching the electrolyte but not having the charge directed in and out through them? What is going on there? If this works I will convert my 36v banks and run tests. Let me know if it works. Thanks.

Hey, UFO, what city are you in? Are you up near GA or AL, or down toward Cuba? I may consider running down to visit you sometime (and bring my stuff to show and try). I may have CF coil built this coming weekend.http://www.energeticforum.com/images/smilies/dance.gif

UFO,

Is there any reason for me to not build the Anti-Phase unit? It seems like that would be the next step. (?) Add a CF coil and make plans for space travel! HEE HEE.

OK. Back to it.

Bob

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Lm339

Hello ZPE,



ZPE , honestly, I would not like to play the "Boss" roll here...or a "Guru", like someone called me already...

I really love the innovations...or to get "The Best" out of the whole thread, like Bob did...and make it happen!!
I am still using the old 555 timer...I have bought the (2) LM393...and also the LM339...I have all components but...have not found time yet, and I know it is much better than the one I have...
I have been working hard on the Motor set-up lately...and in the videos...they both take more than my extra time...plus writing-reading here...lol
The 555 have the inconvenience I can only accelerate up to a point...after that it turns almost linear...not good!...I can not adjust duty cycle either...so I must make the LM set up...I want to build two, one with several N-Channels and just one Drain out...and the other one usin Cinan's double N-Channels to obtain dual anti-phase channel drains on Positive-Negative...However I am going to wait for that till Cinan burns some Mosfet's first...

Now, You DO have studied that purple light very close, don't you?!...It seems you are trying to "Glorify that light"!!??...
Be careful, my friend!!...someone could come over and accuse You on "glorifying" that purple light!!

HA HA HA HA...LOL

Regards my friend!!

Ufopolitics

UFO,

I found the LM339 to be easier to use as everything comes off of one side except one wire (pin 12). This made it very compact. I posted the hand draw circuit at: Pictures by bobfrench - Photobucket

Dana has converted it to a PCB form and is going to make a home made circuit board of it. Another friend, Luther, has a friend that is very good at that and will convert it also. I hope that it will not be so convoluted that I can't understand the wiring. My hand drawn circuit is clear and easy enough to follow. In updating it I made a cap smaller in order to get higher frequency. I tested that and it works. My better charging was above 2000Hz. I also replaced a 100k ohm fixed resistor with a 100k pot so I could get lower frequency. I've actually placed a third 100k pot in series with the other two now. My duty cycle seems to be around 40% in order to run it at 1.2A which seems to be good. More amps does raise charging, but goes past the C20 discharge rate for the Primary. (so does the 1.2A, but...)

Once you build this controller you will love it. I would advise that you make it separate from the MOSFET heat sink so that you can attach it with small bolts and be able to transfer it to other setups easily. Also attach the coil ends with 3.5 phone jacks so trying different coils is easy, too. Easy makes it so much more enjoyable. When an idea pops into your head it's a drag to think...oh, well, now I've got to unsolder this, solder that on...and so on. If you can just slip things together, you will just do it, change it, do something else...all in one session.

Take care and thank you for your kind words,

Bob

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

PM

UFO,

Would you e-mail me at: bobfrench@fastmail.fm

I would like to send you a private message.

Thanks,

Bob

[Ufopolitics]

Hid Bulb Lighting With Re Video

LIGHTING HID BULB ASSY WITH RADIANT ENERGY - YouTube

[cinan]

Cinan,

Thank you for your electronics knowledge and expertise. I am fairly ignorant of these things, so your circuits and suggestions are very valuable to me. You and MadScientist have made this possible for me. Thank you.

This circuit is so small on my screen and when I blow it up it gets blurry. How can I view it better? It looks like the next logical step. I can' t make out the components and there appears to be 6 wires going in and out. I guess that would be 2 for power in, 2 for output (w/ an end of the coil), 1 for timing, and 1 for one end of the coil. (?, just guessing?) Perhaps it would work for me if you posted it on Photobucket. (?)

If you could help me get a clear copy I would be grateful.

Bob

Hallo Bob,

sorry for pic. I didn't open it to see in www. Here is pdf file. Now I have to run yo aport. Have a fun here.

Cinan

[iankoglin]

At Last

G'Day UFO
I have now at last read all the posts here. I wanted to do so before I started to build and I just could not wait to order parts So I did so as soon as I was able to see what was needed
First I would like to thank you for starting this thread

I Actually discovered this site when Bob French and Dana on BM2 were discussing what they were learning from you and am very glad to be here

I am not an EE I am a simple Joiner(Wood worker)retired but for the last 5 years or so I have been looking for a way I could build an electric motor to drive a car But every forum I have joined (Including this one) has had NAYSAYERS or as I would call them trouble makers that seem to try to direct others away from what is being shown to them and therefore the ones taking the lead have spat the dummy so to speak, and have lost interest in continuing to show what they know
I am really glad that you perservered and stayed on this site
I appreciate all those on this thread with knowledge expanding on what they have learned from you and helped others like myself to be able to understand these things.
Now that I have read all the posts up to date I already have purchased the components to start to build as you have described. I will be building with the 555 timer first as I have purchased those parts.
When I finish building I will show what I have built and of course will be able to show all my friends who think of me a MAD SCIENTIST(I mean no disrespect to Mad scientist here )
One of my friends about 5 years ago said to me How am I going to do these things when I did not know even how to use a multimeter

I am truly glad to be here

All my friends call me Kogs
Kindest Regards To you and all others here
Kogs

[larryross]

Hi Torpex
I have a quick question, but first congratulations on your test. Now did you measure the voltage drop across the leads of the eco bulbs or are you stating they are rated at 240V 15W and so on and look to be bright? Measuring the voltage drop across the leads will tell you for sure if you are at 15W or what ever watts bulb is rated at. If you have 240V across the leads you will have the watts that the bulb is rated except that I have read that the CFL bulbs actually draw twice what they're rated watts are. So you might be doing better than you think. Thanks for your report.

Thanks
Larry

Hi all

I have updated to the 31GF6 diodes.
New coil (other circuit) 100 turns bifilar, one layer, OD:32mm, parallel connection.
To adjust frequency, i have changed C1 to 10nF and short R6.
Power source: 36v
Control circuit: 13.95v
I have added a capacitor of 68mF-385v in parallel to the load.
Drain current: 390mA for 100% Brilliance eco bulb 11W 240v
Drain current: 390mA for 100% Brilliance eco bulb 15W 240v
Drain current: 390mA for 100% Brilliance eco bulb 30w 240v. I suspect the factory label should be bad.

At this point I am a bit lost. I need to compare my results.

@Ufo, I sent a private message to you, Have you received it?

I keep on working in the new coil.

[Ufopolitics]

Thank You

G'Day UFO
I have now at last read all the posts here. I wanted to do so before I started to build and I just could not wait to order parts So I did so as soon as I was able to see what was needed
First I would like to thank you for starting this thread

I Actually discovered this site when Bob French and Dana on BM2 were discussing what they were learning from you and am very glad to be here

I am not an EE I am a simple Joiner(Wood worker)retired but for the last 5 years or so I have been looking for a way I could build an electric motor to drive a car But every forum I have joined (Including this one) has had NAYSAYERS or as I would call them trouble makers that seem to try to direct others away from what is being shown to them and therefore the ones taking the lead have spat the dummy so to speak, and have lost interest in continuing to show what they know
I am really glad that you perservered and stayed on this site
I appreciate all those on this thread with knowledge expanding on what they have learned from you and helped others like myself to be able to understand these things.
Now that I have read all the posts up to date I already have purchased the components to start to build as you have described. I will be building with the 555 timer first as I have purchased those parts.
When I finish building I will show what I have built and of course will be able to show all my friends who think of me a MAD SCIENTIST(I mean no disrespect to Mad scientist here )
One of my friends about 5 years ago said to me How am I going to do these things when I did not know even how to use a multimeter

I am truly glad to be here

All my friends call me Kogs
Kindest Regards To you and all others here
Kogs

Hello Iankoglin,

Thanks for your kind words, you have no idea how they rejoice my soul...
Must of times we do not realize how valuable our words as an expression of our feelings could be...but I do perceive them clearly when they come full of joy and positive feelings...

You will be able to build that motor for your vehicle very soon, and more...
The circuit with the timer 555 is pretty good, I have driven big motors with it...is a simple system to start playing with.

To a certain point it is good not to be an EE, during all the career you learn all possibilities not to obtain results that violate certain laws, that fact becomes a barrier to understand anything that brakes those rules...it ends up blinding and narrowing your points of view, unless you were the type who always wanted to go beyond whatever they thought you, and argued with your professors to exhaustion about other methods and possibilities...

I wish you the bests of luck in your project, and We all will be here to help you in case there would be any problems in the way to the light. You have great guys there, Bob and Dana...to guide you through this.

Warm Regards Kogs!!

Ufopolitics

[Dave45]

Ufo I hope you dont mind, I used your pic

How can we access this field
Add coil whisker's

Im not sure yet how the connections should be, but we can access these fields, there is a field on both ends of the coil.

@Ufo
some idea's you may give a shot, easy to implement

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Dave

Ufo I hope you dont mind, I used your pic

How can we access this field
Add coil whisker's

Im not sure yet how the connections should be, but we can access these fields, there is a field on both ends of the coil.

@Ufo
some idea's you may give a shot, easy to implement

Hello Dave!

No, I do not mind that you use my picture, by all means it is my pleasure.

I will give you my input...

Ok, the fields at the end of every coil, relating to Electromagnetic Fields, and not the Electrical Fields, are the ones We generate whether linear or pulsed by our Input...They are the Hot current generated Fields manifested at the extremes of the coil. However, this fields are "flexible", and very Dynamic, and according to the spec's of our input and also to the Coil design will generate many different patterns.
As long as we keep the loop between our pulses and the coil, at specific times open...it will generate a Magnetic Resonance of greater magnitude in the opposite direction, that "Reaction" is born, starts, right at the center of every coil, and dynamically expands in 'exactly' two planes, one parallel to the coil axis, and we could say it is not exactly a 'plane' but a 3D cylindrical geometry that expands towards the upper-lower extremes of coil, the secondary plane is perpendicular to the coil axis...and it grows towards the outside (exterior) space of coil.

I know this because I have designed secondary isolated coils sandwiched between a segmented primary...and also inserting a vertical (parallel to coil axis) second coil...Both Induce "Negatively", opposite to "Positive Induction", since I did not grant at all any possibility for Hot flux to Induce in this secondaries...
However, the vertical coil induces faster than horizontal one...

Below is the Pic of the Model Coil I have built...with two secondaries (I am making a video of this) I have take it apart to show it in an exploded view...note the inner coil and the center (sandwiched) between a segmented in two Primary.

The vertical secondary has 8000 turns of 33 awg
The Horizontal 4000 T/33awg
Primary has 150T Bifilar in each segment of 18awg
The primary Space frame has two parts with four fins on upper-lower.
The center Steel Ring is isolated (physically) from main frame and it enhances the horizontal field.
The upper and lower steel fins attach through a brass bolt (non magnetic material) to a center steel bar (not seen, inside) that enhances the vertical secondary resonance.

The Steel Space frame serves as magnetic enhancers as they also provide heat sinking.

The other pic is showing the Coil lighting two 400 V Xenon's Strobe Bulbs (no filament bulbs, just Xenon Gas and two electrodes, they create a High Pressure Discharge Plasma Arc. Primary is illuminating the 23 W CFL through Radiant output...
Later I will post the preview of this coming video.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Alien Coil Video

ALIEN COIL PREVIEW - YouTube

The vertical secondary has 8000 turns of 33 awg
The Horizontal 4000 T/33awg
Primary has 150T Bifilar in each segment of 18awg
The primary Space frame has two parts with four fins on upper-lower.
The center Steel Ring is isolated (physically) from main frame and it enhances the horizontal field.
The upper and lower steel fins attach through a brass bolt (non magnetic material) to a center steel bar (not seen, inside) that enhances the vertical secondary resonance.

The Steel Space frame serves as magnetic enhancers as they also provide heat sinking.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[larryross]

Hello Iankoglin,

Thanks for your kind words, you have no idea how they rejoice my soul...
Must of times we do not realize how valuable our words as an expression of our feelings could be...but I do perceive them clearly when they come full of joy and positive feelings...

You will be able to build that motor for your vehicle very soon, and more...
The circuit with the timer 555 is pretty good, I have driven big motors with it...is a simple system to start playing with.

To a certain point it is good not to be an EE, during all the career you learn all possibilities not to obtain results that violate certain laws, that fact becomes a barrier to understand anything that brakes those rules...it ends up blinding and narrowing your points of view, unless you were the type who always wanted to go beyond whatever they thought you, and argued with your professors to exhaustion about other methods and possibilities...

I wish you the bests of luck in your project, and We all will be here to help you in case there would be any problems in the way to the light. You have great guys there, Bob and Dana...to guide you through this.

Warm Regards Kogs!!

Ufopolitics

Hello UFO
How big is the biggest motor you have run with this and do you have a video of it?
Also I am ready to build the PWM/frequency part of this and I am not sure which I should build. The first thing that was presented is the PWM circuit, but then you talked about the importance of getting the frequency and the PWM right which leads me to believe I should build a driver that the frequency and the PWM can be adjusted Independently. To my knowledge there isn't a good circuit built with a 555 that will do this. I would prefer to have one that will do very fine tuning. Then you started to talk about both positive and negative square waves. Not sure what to do at this point. My goal for this project is to use it to power my electrolysis system and to power a 100hp electric motor.
You have stated that it should be a brushed type motor... I was wondering what is the problem using it to power a brushless motor? Too many questions in one post sorry.

One more question... on the hot side when you transform a lower voltage to a higher voltage you reduce the available current by the same proportion. Is it the case of RE? With what I am going to do, I need big current too.

Regards
Larry

[penno64]

Hi Larry,

The most "controlable" setup would have to be a STAMP or PIC or
I've purchased an ARDUINO.

These microprocessors make it simple to control both dutycycle and
pulsewidth.

They are also inexpensive - mine A$39.00

Simply connect output pins to transistor switch or mosfet controllers.

Regards, Penno

[Ufopolitics]

Good questions

Hello UFO
How big is the biggest motor you have run with this and do you have a video of it?
Also I am ready to build the PWM/frequency part of this and I am not sure which I should build. The first thing that was presented is the PWM circuit, but then you talked about the importance of getting the frequency and the PWM right which leads me to believe I should build a driver that the frequency and the PWM can be adjusted Independently. To my knowledge there isn't a good circuit built with a 555 that will do this. I would prefer to have one that will do very fine tuning. Then you started to talk about both positive and negative square waves. Not sure what to do at this point. My goal for this project is to use it to power my electrolysis system and to power a 100hp electric motor.
You have stated that it should be a brushed type motor... I was wondering what is the problem using it to power a brushless motor? Too many questions in one post sorry.

Regards
Larry

Hello Larry,

Yes too many!!...
But is Ok...I will number them...

How big is the biggest motor you have run with this and do you have a video of it?

The biggest I have run is a 5 and a 7.5 HP...Brushed DC Permanent Magnet Stators...No, I do not have a video of it. But We are talking not about the Motors I have built..correct? but the normal, factory spec's I have run with this Coil system, right?

Also I am ready to build the PWM/frequency part of this and I am not sure which I should build. The first thing that was presented is the PWM circuit, but then you talked about the importance of getting the frequency and the PWM right which leads me to believe I should build a driver that the frequency and the PWM can be adjusted Independently. To my knowledge there isn't a good circuit built with a 555 that will do this. I would prefer to have one that will do very fine tuning. Then you started to talk about both positive and negative square waves. Not sure what to do at this point.

Just build the LM339 that Bob French successfully ran and he has posted the diagram here, it is based on Mad Scientist previous post (Bob writes next to diagram the post numbers...great idea!)
The LM339 is a Dual Op Amp based on two LM393's...this circuit could be expanded or "Upgraded" to make it Dual Anti-Phase also, meaning, pulsing Positive and Negative Channels simultaneously. And Frequency and Duty Cycle can be adjusted separate.
Hope this cleared your doubts..

My goal for this project is to use it to power my electrolysis system and to power a 100hp electric motor.

To be able to run this equipment you must do a lot of Upgrading on your system-set-up, by making it really stronger and robust...meaning the Coil, the Oscillator and the power supply-Battery Management System (BMS) and the Charging set...lot of work Larry!!...But you are an Engineer Larry!!...so that should not be a problem for you.
However, I recommend that you start from a lower level test first, measuring the Capacity of Outputs and running your calculations to scale it up...

You have stated that it should be a brushed type motor... I was wondering what is the problem using it to power a brushless motor?

To power a BLDC Motor You will need a Three Channels Controller sending a Three Phase Square Signal in Sequence, 1, 2 then 3...just one or even two channels will not even move a robust BLDC Motor...
Of course I am not talking about the smaller BLDC like the ones used in PC Fans...those you will blow the small electronic circuit that contains small hall sensors and NPN little transistors as soon as you connect them to Radiant High Frequency current...
I recommend the brushed motor, simply because I know it works great, without major complications...and they do, can stand Radiant.

Phew, Larry...You got me to work!!...
is good I know all this by "ear" and do not have to start "Googling" it...

Is ok...love to be able to respond to you my friend, and hope I did ok

Regards


Ufopolitics