My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Ufopolitics]

Arduino...

Hi Larry,

The most "controlable" setup would have to be a STAMP or PIC or
I've purchased an ARDUINO.

These microprocessors make it simple to control both dutycycle and
pulsewidth.

They are also inexpensive - mine A$39.00

Simply connect output pins to transistor switch or mosfet controllers.

Regards, Penno

Hello Penno!

Welcome!
Just one question...what kind of Arduino circuit?...the Motor Controller?
Did you try it with my set-up?
Thanks in advance and for answering to Larry!

Regards

Ufopolitics

PD: I have tried oscillator-controllers from small R/C Motor controllers...however they do not work...they do not come down to very low Hertz...to start dialing up...they seem to be designed to start at 800-1000 Hertz...to stand the Brush DC Impact at start. not good for this set-up.
I have also tried heavy duty controllers for Electric vehicles...they have not worked out for me...same thing but at bigger scale, they are designed to stand the Big Spikes of Brushed Motors...therefore spend battery like crazy..they have a huge capacitor bank (@ 8- 10 1000mfd in parallel). so filling that up...in the On-Off tests will kill batteries very fast.

[torpex]

Hi @ZeropointEnergy,

I think that can be solved by either matching the impedence between the input/output or modifying the oscillator circuit for less on time (TH) in the duty cycle. I know that experimenting with this circuit that the R1+R2 in the astable timer/PWM circuit play a larger role in the current draw than the Rb and when I changed the base resistance exponentionly higher the current draw was not linear. Did not even change as only the R1+R2 seem to affect it.

I do not understand what you mean... Are you referring to the generic circuit of the 555 or one in particular?
In my current circuit, I can regulate frequency and pulse width, but I have observed anomalies, what did you mean that? What is your current circuit?
You already have the parts to assemble the new circuit?
Where are you from?

On the other hand I've been playing directly with a frequency generator, the results are the same. Light bulbs with energy cost but similar. My FG drops to only 10% duty cycle.

The best performance I have it on 5.6 kHz and 42 kHz. I think something is wrong

The new video I've seen it but I need to see it easier, not easy for me to understand because the difficulty of the language.

[torpex]

Hello Kogs, welcome to this thread

I have a quick question, but first congratulations on your test. Now did you measure the voltage drop across the leads of the eco bulbs or are you stating they are rated at 240V 15W and so on and look to be bright? Measuring the voltage drop across the leads will tell you for sure if you are at 15W or what ever watts bulb is rated at. If you have 240V across the leads you will have the watts that the bulb is rated except that I have read that the CFL bulbs actually draw twice what they're rated watts are. So you might be doing better than you think. Thanks for your report.

Hi @Larry,
Yes, I measured across the legs. My reference is 250v DC.
To test I use 3 references (with capacitor): 100v, 250v and 340V, obviously pulsed DC. The capacitor helps the bulb to start.

To appreciate the level of brightness without luxmeter is a bit difficult in CFL's. I'm thinking of removing a bulb to make a valid point of reference in AC and DC (directly into the ballast). What do you think?
Another idea is to make a home luxmeter.

Also compare drain current with 2 inverters (12v/240v).

[torpex]

Hi all,

My finished coil:
Is wound on PVC pipe 50mm, height 81 mm (68mm winding space), 8 layers bifiliar wire of 1mm diameter. Connected in parallel.

[Ufopolitics]

Spanish...

Hello Kogs, welcome to this thread


Hi @Larry,
Yes, I measured across the legs. My reference is 250v DC.
To test I use 3 references (with capacitor): 100v, 250v and 340V, obviously pulsed DC. The capacitor helps the bulb to start.

To appreciate the level of brightness without luxmeter is a bit difficult in CFL's. I'm thinking of removing a bulb to make a valid point of reference in AC and DC (directly into the ballast). What do you think?
Another idea is to make a home luxmeter.

Also compare drain current with 2 inverters (12v/240v).

Hola Torpex!!

Entonces estás "rockeando" (bailando)...
Me alegra saber que tu prueba ha resultado exitosa!!

English: Then You are rocking (dancing)
I am happy to know your test has been successful!!

Regards

Ufopolitics

[larryross]

Hello UFO
I guess I edited my post at the time you were answering it so you didn't see my last question so I will ask it again.

On the hot side when you transform a lower voltage to a higher voltage (with a conventional transformer) you reduce the available current by the same proportion. Is it the case with RE? With what I am going to do, I need big current too. Since we are capturing another form of energy and not transforming energy then it might not apply. Just wanted to verify.

I realize I will have to modify or rebuild this to gain what I want, but I want to build this so I can study the process and understand it better before I get too carried away with a bigger setup.

I figured the LM339 might be the way to go so I will start gathering components to start building.

Yes penno64 I have worked with basic stamps and other pics and have designed test equipment and controllers around them, but I don't think at this stage I need anything that complex, but will probably use it in the future, if I am successful in learning about RE.

Thanks
Larry

[JohnStone]

...
To appreciate the level of brightness without luxmeter is a bit difficult in CFL's. I'm thinking of removing a bulb to make a valid point of reference in AC and DC (directly into the ballast). What do you think?
Another idea is to make a home luxmeter.

Have you access to one of those old exposure meters for photography? You do not get LUX measured directly but they are very usable for comparing different setups. You can look up the LUX conversion from EV (light units).

Alternative:
Get a small solar cell (i.e from pocket calcualtor) and measure the short circuit current (µA). The current is quite linear with the light power arriving at the cell. Add a small cap in parallel in order to prevent AC effects from pulsing light.

For reliable measurements I cover the bulb completely with a 100mm sink tube covered with white paper inside and added a fixture on top for the exposure meter (or colar cell). Let 100mm space above the bulb in order to give the light enough space for distributing evenly. You can add a diffusing layer (i.e. from old flash light or a plastic fresnel lens) for smooth diffuse and even light intensity. So I can measure reliably without any disturbance from environmental light.

Please note: These setup is most reliable for YOUR setup with YOUR individual bulb.

Of course this is no scientific proof. It might miss some freequency spectrum of light. But it is 1000% better than any pure guess.
Scientific proofs are the last steps done if required!

[torpex]

Hola Torpex!!

Entonces estás "rockeando" (bailando)...
Me alegra saber que tu prueba ha resultado exitosa!!

English: Then You are rocking (dancing)
I am happy to know your test has been successful!!

¡Hola Ufo!
It is obvious that his Spanish is much better than my English.

I really am a little lost. My circuit works but can not see the gain. What worries me is that I do not see the effects at low frequencies, I work as an efficient buck converter (5.6Khz and 42Khz).
Asked why results on drain current versus the used loads. So I can compare my results.

Another point I do not understand is the orientation of the coil, if I invert the connections get the same results.I need to review these points to better understand.

[torpex]

Have you access to one of those old exposure meters for photography? You do not get LUX measured directly but they are very usable for comparing different setups. You can look up the LUX conversion from EV (light units).

Alternative:
Get a small solar cell (i.e from pocket calcualtor) and measure the short circuit current (µA). The current is quite linear with the light power arriving at the cell. Add a small cap in parallel in order to prevent AC effects from pulsing light.

For reliable measurements I cover the bulb completely with a 100mm sink tube covered with white paper inside and added a fixture on top for the exposure meter (or colar cell). Let 100mm space above the bulb in order to give the light enough space for distributing evenly. You can add a diffusing layer (i.e. from old flash light or a plastic fresnel lens) for smooth diffuse and even light intensity. So I can measure reliably without any disturbance from environmental light.

Please note: These setup is most reliable for YOUR setup with YOUR individual bulb.

Of course this is no scientific proof. It might miss some freequency spectrum of light. But it is 1000% better than any pure guess.
Scientific proofs are the last steps done if required!

Thanks for your input. It is an excellent idea and very practical.
Can save a control circuit, I'll try

[Ufopolitics]

Bigger Current

Hello UFO
I guess I edited my post at the time you were answering it so you didn't see my last question so I will ask it again.

On the hot side when you transform a lower voltage to a higher voltage (with a conventional transformer) you reduce the available current by the same proportion. Is it the case with RE? With what I am going to do, I need big current too. Since we are capturing another form of energy and not transforming energy then it might not apply. Just wanted to verify.

I realize I will have to modify or rebuild this to gain what I want, but I want to build this so I can study the process and understand it better before I get too carried away with a bigger setup.

I figured the LM339 might be the way to go so I will start gathering components to start building.

Yes penno64 I have worked with basic stamps and other pics and have designed test equipment and controllers around them, but I don't think at this stage I need anything that complex, but will probably use it in the future, if I am successful in learning about RE.

Thanks
Larry

Hello Larry,


According to the tests I have run, the current remains around the same amperage as we input on Hot, at higher frequencies it increases, as it does also in voltage.

In conventional Hot Transformers (Symmetrical Type) I know the equation, boosting voltage will decrease current at output of secondaries, however, must have in mind the losses that are present in typical hot transformers, besides current runs through the steel laminated E Frame in flux to become electrical flow again at secondary.

This does not happen the same way here, remember RE travels (when outputting from same Primary) through the same wire...
I recommend you start with a heavy gauge wire, like 16 or thicker, but keep in mind this will also reduce resistance, so your Mosfet's will be very stressed if you do not use the right transistor spec's and the right number of them in parallel.

There is a way I am still in the process of testing, and that is to add isolated secondaries like I have shown on video, now this electricity induced have very high currents, higher than input at primary, however, they are much higher frequencies and potential (Voltage) also than Hot...so they actually arc inside any equipment you try to run it through, I have burn two EXTECH meters already trying to read it...all I get is O.L. (Over Load), then smoke... I have an idea of its potential just because it produces a heavy plasma arc in 400V Xenon's that have KV to trigger...and also creates a nice solid arc on HID Sodium Bulbs, and also because I have felt it too by nice shocks ...I have got shock with AC 120 and 240...so I know what feels high currents (amperage)...

I know a way to go here is to store it in HF Caps of High Voltage/High Frequency/High Capacitance, so I am getting those they use on High Pressure Discharge lamps...Oil Based, I know, are the best for this, (Tesla 1800 patented the first Oil based HF Caps, even 'adjustable') then once stored in this type it could be transferred to normal high capacity electrolytic caps.
Cinan wrote about this also in a previous post answering to Bbem (Bert) about converting RE back to Hot...

But still , Larry I will give you my opinion on your needs to run your particular equipment...

This is an experimental and very new system, I really do not have all the answers for every different requirement, that is the reason you guys should replicate it yourselves and make it to work for you, and expecting to come back and posting your great results and how you were able to make it happen...

This are the basics principles of Open Source Communities, to share and to investigate and develop on your own, or in teams, applying every one the expertise they are good at.

My expertise is in the fields of Electrodynamics, and that is where I will be fully concentrating in a near future, I know that by running a Radiant Generator based on very low inputs from Hot I can obtain very high outputs...but this is completely different than a steady coil set up. There are electromagnetic interactions taking place there that benefit both currents by rotation.

I am saying this for you not to expect this currents-electricity are "ready to go", to run any appliance at home-or shop...just like 120/240AC/10-20-30Amps Main...because they are not, they need a lot of work from our side to convert it and make it wonderful...


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Torpex

ey

¡Hola Ufo!
It is obvious that his Spanish is much better than my English.

I really am a little lost. My circuit works but can not see the gain. What worries me is that I do not see the effects at low frequencies, I work as an efficient buck converter (5.6Khz and 42Khz).
Asked why results on drain current versus the used loads. So I can compare my results.

Another point I do not understand is the orientation of the coil, if I invert the connections get the same results.I need to review these points to better understand.

Hello Torpex!

Ok,

Another point I do not understand is the orientation of the coil, if I invert the connections get the same results.I need to review these points to better understand.

At this stage you are in, just using a primary coil, it really does not matter the magnetic orientation at all...and even when inserting an isolated secondary, all you need to know is the sense, the direction you turned the primary and wind secondary identically as you wound primary.

I really am a little lost. My circuit works but can not see the gain. What worries me is that I do not see the effects at low frequencies, I work as an efficient buck converter (5.6Khz and 42Khz).

Those are too high frequencies my friend!!, you must be able to see better results at much lower hertz...something is definitively wrong there!

Are you measuring Hertz at Input and also Output?
What is the difference between them?

I will tell you that if I get there to those frequencies you are running (at Input I am guessing, you did not specify)...I will blow in pieces my highest CFL (125Watts)

Let's see what happens when you run your new bifilar coil...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

HV Caps

If you have no funds for buying HV caps see my doc regarding Home Brew HV Caps. Perhaps it works for you.
I prepared this HV / HF pulse cap for a DON Smith device but that forum is stucked because lag of knowledge. I moved here to in order to understand more facts - and it pays! Thanks for all your contributions.

Please note that Don frequently used sprak gaps in order to protect his caps. A xenon car bulb could be a good choice. They ignite at 15KV ... 25 KV and are very rugged.

Please do not confuse these xenon burners with normal incandescent bulbs filled with xeneon gas. Xenon burners function like a steady burning flash light -> plasma! The current is being controlled after ignition -> similar to CCFL.

[JohnStone]

LUX measurement

Here you see my tube for LUX measurment. The top cone was made out of a funnel and adapted to a real LUX meter.

[LutherG]

UFO,

I found the LM339 to be easier to use as everything comes off of one side except one wire (pin 12). This made it very compact. I posted the hand draw circuit at: Pictures by bobfrench - Photobucket

Dana has converted it to a PCB form and is going to make a home made circuit board of it. Another friend, Luther, has a friend that is very good at that and will convert it also. I hope that it will not be so convoluted that I can't understand the wiring. My hand drawn circuit is clear and easy enough to follow. In updating it I made a cap smaller in order to get higher frequency. I tested that and it works. My better charging was above 2000Hz. I also replaced a 100k ohm fixed resistor with a 100k pot so I could get lower frequency. I've actually placed a third 100k pot in series with the other two now. My duty cycle seems to be around 40% in order to run it at 1.2A which seems to be good. More amps does raise charging, but goes past the C20 discharge rate for the Primary. (so does the 1.2A, but...)

Once you build this controller you will love it. I would advise that you make it separate from the MOSFET heat sink so that you can attach it with small bolts and be able to transfer it to other setups easily. Also attach the coil ends with 3.5 phone jacks so trying different coils is easy, too. Easy makes it so much more enjoyable. When an idea pops into your head it's a drag to think...oh, well, now I've got to unsolder this, solder that on...and so on. If you can just slip things together, you will just do it, change it, do something else...all in one session.

Take care and thank you for your kind words,

Bob

Hi Bob and all,

I'm not going to have the assistance I thought I might get on laying out the board. I've talked to 2 friends who are both very good with this and they're both busy with other things... Sorry...

On another forum there is some discussion of a PWM circuit with a Phase-Locked Loop circuit attached that locks onto the resonant frequency... I'm hoping to get my hands on a schematic of that. If I do, I'll post it here.

On another note, has anyone here tried using multi-stranded wire? I found a place where I can get a 300' spool of 8 gauge Power Force Power Cable model 1662 multi-stranded that has 665 strands of 36 awg... I have close to 100' of this on hand now so I'll play with this at some point...

Cheers,

Luther

[Ufopolitics]

Hello John

If you have no funds for buying HV caps see my doc regarding Home Brew HV Caps. Perhaps it works for you.
I prepared this HV / HF pulse cap for a DON Smith device but that forum is stucked because lag of knowledge. I moved here to in order to understand more facts - and it pays! Thanks for all your contributions.

Please note that Don frequently used sprak gaps in order to protect his caps. A xenon car bulb could be a good choice. They ignite at 15KV ... 25 KV and are very rugged.

Please do not confuse these xenon burners with normal incandescent bulbs filled with xeneon gas. Xenon burners function like a steady burning flash light -> plasma! The current is being controlled after ignition -> similar to CCFL.

Hello John!

That is a very well put together document!!...excellent and thanks for sharing it!
I have reviewed other sites where they also make home caps...and I know polyethylene is also a great dielectric material...they say Mineral Oil is the best to use inside...now I noticed yours do not have oil, I guess it is not needed if you are laminating the aluminum plates...
I also noticed the estimated capacitance rate is very good per laminates.

Now related to the Xenon I have used is a Strobe Bulb, U shaped , no filament, just three legs, at each end are the electrodes, and center is the ground which is a fine metal arc that runs inside the U curve. (Photo attached) When I join one electrode leg to ground leg it lights up straight -linear (no blinking flashes) at lower frequencies of Primary Hot. It does develops a white blue plasma arc from electrode to electrode...if I get my finger close to upper glass it will deviate towards it, just like a plasma lamp does.


Regards


Ufopolitics