My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[JohnStone]

...
Then turn off the circuit.
Then turn on the circuit without touching anything, in my circuit the bulb lights like before.

This is normal behavior?
...

I imagine the behaviour like a flywheel. It takes time to accelerate it but it will turn a while after that. You need to apply the force adapted to the increasing turn speed. Such behaviour is told to be true at caps if you charge them with cold energy. Batteries the same (Bedini). So why not at coils as well?
Play with different on and off times if you like to find out at what time the flywheel slows down. This time might be dependent on the max. magnetic strength in your coil (= turn speed of the flywheel).

[ZeropointEnergy]

MOSFET's

Hi all you good people.
Thanks for the tips and well wishes. Truly this world is full of good people... wars are between governments and people have to pay the price.
I found what I think will be a good sub for the nte mosfet. Check out the
2SK2837 by Toshiba.

500V
20A continues, 80A pulse
RDsOn 0.21
Fast switching
Repetitive Avalanche Rated

I just bought 10 off E-bay for US$1.28 each with free shipping. If these work out it will be good for the project.

I ran across something that is interesting to me. Any one heard of Colloidal Silver? Sounds like something I want to try.

Regards All
Larry

Hey All,

Found another MOSFET close to NTE or better.

IRFP460, N-Channel.
500V, 0.27 Ohm, 20A and 80A pulsed

This is what I'm going to use in place of the NTE2397 and wil hopefully end up in powering a large motor, sound good Larry

http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...ld/IRFP460.pdf

Regards
Zero

[iankoglin]

Is a movistor important

Hello Iankoglin,

Thanks for your kind words, you have no idea how they rejoice my soul...
Must of times we do not realize how valuable our words as an expression of our feelings could be...but I do perceive them clearly when they come full of joy and positive feelings...

You will be able to build that motor for your vehicle very soon, and more...
The circuit with the timer 555 is pretty good, I have driven big motors with it...is a simple system to start playing with.

To a certain point it is good not to be an EE, during all the career you learn all possibilities not to obtain results that violate certain laws, that fact becomes a barrier to understand anything that brakes those rules...it ends up blinding and narrowing your points of view, unless you were the type who always wanted to go beyond whatever they thought you, and argued with your professors to exhaustion about other methods and possibilities...

I wish you the bests of luck in your project, and We all will be here to help you in case there would be any problems in the way to the light. You have great guys there, Bob and Dana...to guide you through this.

Warm Regards Kogs!!

Ufopolitics

G'Day UFO
I have nearly finished building the Circuit BUT one question I have
I imagine the Movistor should be a 12v clamping device I can not seem to get one any where the only thing I can get near is a Metal Oxide varistor and it is a 38v
Do you have a part number for this Item?
Kindest regards Kogs

[torpex]

Hi all,

I imagine the behaviour like a flywheel. It takes time to accelerate it but it will turn a while after that. You need to apply the force adapted to the increasing turn speed. Such behaviour is told to be true at caps if you charge them with cold energy. Batteries the same (Bedini). So why not at coils as well?
Play with different on and off times if you like to find out at what time the flywheel slows down. This time might be dependent on the max. magnetic strength in your coil (= turn speed of the flywheel).

I think I have not explained well.
I do not speak of DTC (t-on,t-off), i speak power off and power on. No inertia, if I turned power off 5 minutes is equal to 1 second.
Ufo says to re-call each time to get radiant, from zero Hz (he uses marks) and work up slowly. In my setup the bulb light always when tunned.

[cinan]

Hallo all,

@larryros

Larry, there is tons of alternative ways how to get better and beat this sucker.
Be positive and look for example here: My Dance With Cancer Talk to the guy,
maybe you'll find inspiration....

@john stone

Dc/Dc converter voltage depends what you are going to do with FODxxx output. I am driving another extra driver TC44xx so my voltage is 5V-5V. If you want to drive MOSFET or IGBT directly, yes, use 5V-15V.

I have in my schematics FODxxx opto isolation jst for practical reason. Wild tests fith coil are executing MOSFETs and short circuit between D-G would fry my controller circuit... When proper hardware will be developed, we can use directly MOSFET driver w/out opto isolation...

@NTE mosfets replacement

I was searching last month for good, cheap MOSFETs and TOSHIBA series TK20xxxx is superb as long as you paralell them to get robust avalanche current. Switching times are also gud. See datasheets for TK20D60U and TK20E60U for example... They are TO220 package. For better current handling you can use TO247 package, just search farnell or digikey....

@torpex
when yo tune circuit to max performance and switch it off and on, yes there will be the same level of voltage on output, immediately....

I still keep in mind Ufo's recommendation about invoking her slowly from low freq.... (I don't know if its really necessary. Ufo can you comment this phenomena ? )

I did tests month ago and find out, that without load you get 600V peaks with only 3-4V input voltage (as UFO also stated before).

Amplitude of those pulses is of course dependent on frequency, as XL of the coil is increasing with frequency. To keep the same amplitude on higher frequencies one needs just to increase input voltage. I was driving coil up 200kHz with same output DC voltage.... If your frequency is too low ( < 300Hz in my case), with input voltage 2V you can get monster pulse far over
MOSFET D-S tolerant voltage... I can't experiment now, as I need MOSFET with higher DS voltage to see what is coming out on low freq. That's why Ufo said, always get load connected !

@Ufo
I have also good idea about little circuit modification to significantly lower 'hot' current consumption. I need to do some tests and I believe, we can improve performance....

cheers,

Cinan

[harishsingh]

Hallo all,

@larryros

Larry, there is tons of alternative ways how to get better and beat this sucker.
Be positive and look for example here: My Dance With Cancer Talk to the guy,
maybe you'll find inspiration....



cheers,

Cinan

Larry & Cinan. I was surprised it was not mentioned before.

Tullio Simoncini (re)discovered this therapy based on his observations as an onocologist.

Cancer Cure Sodium Bicarbonate 1/3 - YouTube

This video may not last long. Others have disappreared.

Don't want to hijack this discussion. But, dont with todays healthcare system.

Take care,
HS

[tbo_]

I don't have an EE background so I hope this ain't such a stupid question, but what is the best way or the right way to check the frequency? Right now I'm using my multi-meters frequency tester, grounding the black probe, and when I hook up the red to one leg of the output (after the diode) I get one reading, when I touch the other leg of the output (after the diode) I get a different reading. Same with the duty cycle. Not sure which is the one that's accurate?

Thanks,
Tom

[Ufopolitics]

Hey Larry...

Hello UFO
Thanks TBO I was just going over the Beck site.

Looks like I have hijacked your thread... I really didn't intend to. I am very sorry. Should get back to the device and go forward.

Regards
Larry

You could use this thread (and other members also) in order to resolve your problem anytime my friend!

We are all pretty intelligent as to be able to handle both subjects in one thread...and we always keep learning...

Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Great Tests Bob!!

UFO et al,

I visited a friend of like mindedness and we ran the device on two identical banks of three 12v, 215Ah batteries in series (36v, 215Ah each bank). These are old sulfated marine batteries.

Started with Bank A at 37.16v and Bank B at 36.8v. Ran the charging at 45Hz, 11%DC, 1.3A from 8:36pm until midnight (3.5 hrs). Banks were A= 36.1v, B= 39.8v.

We adjusted the unit to 99.4Hz, 12.8%DC, 450mA and ran until 7:00am.
Bank A= 36.22v, Bank B= 39.7 (the frequency had risen to 101Hz).

Then I adjusted to 144Hz,20%DC, and 1.0A and ran till 9:47am. Bank A= 35.90v, BankB= 40.7v. Stopped and rested the batteries about half an hour (should be an hour, but...).

We swapped the batteries and charged the opposite way (charging Bank A now). The banks had settled some in the rest period (Bank A= 36.6v, Bank B= 38.3v). Under load/charge (144Hz, 11%DC, 1.0A) they started at Bank A= 37.0v, Bank B= 37.2v. An hour later we adjusted to 144Hz, 20%DC, 1.0A and ran until 2:16pm (about 4 hours). Bank A=37.9v, Bank B= 32.35v.

We stopped, rested them for 30 minutes (my bad), swapped then again and started charging Bank B with Bank as the Primary again. 144Hz, 20%DC, 650mA. It seemed odd that the same frequency and DC would draw a lesser amperage, but...). Starting at 2:50pm with Bank A= 37.31v under load, Bank B=33.49v being charged, at 3:27pm Bank A= 36.4v, Bank B= 38.8v, at 4:38pm Bank A= 36.0v, Bank B= 38.8v. We stopped (4:38pm) and rested the batteries until 7:00pm...Bank A= 36.8v, Bank B= 37.8v.

Started with Bank A at 37.16v and Bank B at 36.8v. (= 73.96v combined)
Ended with Bank A= 36.8v, Bank B= 37.8v. (= 74.6v combined)
A slight increase of energy after over 20 hours of running drawing 1 amp much of the time. Batteries are getting conditioned/rejuvenated while powering the device themselves w/o outside input. We can charge back and forth forever and the batteries will just get stronger.

I am going to run at this lower frequency and about 1 amp for a while and see just what it will do with my bigger batteries. At lower frequency the battery has more OFF time to resolve the incoming RE. This may be good while conditioning them. After their plates are remodeled into a crystalline matrix they will take the charge faster and have increased capacity.

That's all for now. Take care and above all have fun!

Bob

Hello Bob,

I am pretty sure we all will make something out of this testings...
Like you said before...it takes a while to crystallize old sulphate batteries...but once they are done then will increase its capacity...

You should let them rest at least an Hour, before re-charge, this time will allow for the plaques and acid to get cool off and settle down, remember hot temp batteries will never take the charge like a cold one...

Did you try to run a brushed motor?
Will like to hear that test...


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hey Torpex...

Hi all,

Ufo and all that has worked,

Behavior of my circuit:
When Freq and DTC are set the bulb lights up.
Then turn off the circuit.
Then turn on the circuit without touching anything, in my circuit the bulb lights like before.

This is normal behavior?

I think that does not correspond with the description of Ufo to invoke Radiant.

Torpex,

Your explanation is not complete...please be slow and explain every detail..like:

Behavior of my circuit:
When Freq and DTC are set the bulb lights up.
Then turn off the circuit.

Ok, Turn off the circuit, BUT, Did you lower frequency BACK TO ZERO before Turn Off??
You did not explained that important point there...so we do not know...
If you turn off and LEFT Frequency at HIGH LEVELS, of course it is expected that at Turn On it will "JUMP" to High Output...

So please clarify that...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Tbo

I don't have an EE background so I hope this ain't such a stupid question, but what is the best way or the right way to check the frequency? Right now I'm using my multi-meters frequency tester, grounding the black probe, and when I hook up the red to one leg of the output (after the diode) I get one reading, when I touch the other leg of the output (after the diode) I get a different reading. Same with the duty cycle. Not sure which is the one that's accurate?

Thanks,
Tom

Hey Tom,


The way I measure Frequency is like you do with Meters, the Scope also...
BUT, I connect both probes of meter to Pos-Neg of Input-Output, positive with positive and negative with negative.
You can not use the same ground reference for both, since Radiant creates a Ground (Negative) where Positive of Hot is...so you will read Hot Freq well but not Radiant with Negative ground from batteries...

Hope it explained well...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Movistor...

G'Day UFO
I have nearly finished building the Circuit BUT one question I have
I imagine the Movistor should be a 12v clamping device I can not seem to get one any where the only thing I can get near is a Metal Oxide varistor and it is a 38v
Do you have a part number for this Item?
Kindest regards Kogs

Hello Kogs,

The Movistor is there to protect the Low voltage circuit (like a resettable fuse), it will run without it...
However I will check later part number in NTE and get back to you...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hey Cinan,

Hallo all,

@larryros

Larry, there is tons of alternative ways how to get better and beat this sucker.
Be positive and look for example here: My Dance With Cancer Talk to the guy,
maybe you'll find inspiration....

@john stone

Dc/Dc converter voltage depends what you are going to do with FODxxx output. I am driving another extra driver TC44xx so my voltage is 5V-5V. If you want to drive MOSFET or IGBT directly, yes, use 5V-15V.

I have in my schematics FODxxx opto isolation jst for practical reason. Wild tests fith coil are executing MOSFETs and short circuit between D-G would fry my controller circuit... When proper hardware will be developed, we can use directly MOSFET driver w/out opto isolation...

@NTE mosfets replacement

I was searching last month for good, cheap MOSFETs and TOSHIBA series TK20xxxx is superb as long as you paralell them to get robust avalanche current. Switching times are also gud. See datasheets for TK20D60U and TK20E60U for example... They are TO220 package. For better current handling you can use TO247 package, just search farnell or digikey....

@torpex
when yo tune circuit to max performance and switch it off and on, yes there will be the same level of voltage on output, immediately....

I still keep in mind Ufo's recommendation about invoking her slowly from low freq.... (I don't know if its really necessary. Ufo can you comment this phenomena ? )

I did tests month ago and find out, that without load you get 600V peaks with only 3-4V input voltage (as UFO also stated before).

Amplitude of those pulses is of course dependent on frequency, as XL of the coil is increasing with frequency. To keep the same amplitude on higher frequencies one needs just to increase input voltage. I was driving coil up 200kHz with same output DC voltage.... If your frequency is too low ( < 300Hz in my case), with input voltage 2V you can get monster pulse far over
MOSFET D-S tolerant voltage... I can't experiment now, as I need MOSFET with higher DS voltage to see what is coming out on low freq. That's why Ufo said, always get load connected !

@Ufo
I have also good idea about little circuit modification to significantly lower 'hot' current consumption. I need to do some tests and I believe, we can improve performance....

cheers,

Cinan

Hey Cinan,

That's great that you will be developing a very small circuit to create Hot and invoke Radiant!!!...great news...we need that for my motors!!

Run a Motor with a 9Volt (or a small LiPo pack) battery and turn a huge generator is my goal...

Now related to:

I still keep in mind Ufo's recommendation about invoking her slowly from low freq.... (I don't know if its really necessary. Ufo can you comment this phenomena ? )

Remember we are all experimenting here...leaving the frequency at higher rates and changing loads could bring "undesired results"....
I always TURN OFF TO ZERO Frequency BEFORE TURN OFF the whole Unit.
Reason: The system tends to "Jump" when you leave Frequency High.
The System will adjust "Gradually" with My tuning while I observe Voltage Meters...and Load performence.

In a future we could design an "Automatic Frequency Adjustment Circuit" (like a "Cruise Control) according to "Load Demand"...but for now...I drive it "Manually"...

I did tests month ago and find out, that without load you get 600V peaks with only 3-4V input voltage (as UFO also stated before).

Running the system without a load at Radiant Output will give you completely false readings at output, besides, Radiant will definitively Retro-Feedback into your circuit through Input (before diodes) and could blow your Mosfet's and other components. So, there must be at least a Load Resistor at Output at all times...but remember that Radiant goes through resistance without any effort, so the resistor must be set according to RE tolerance...meaning, a very low resistor of lower Kilo ohms, would do absolutely nothing, Nada.

@Larry: Great find on the Mosfet's and very cheap, yes we need that!!

There are many out there, and it is better to use the KISS approach by now to drive mosfet's simple, without Drivers...later we will get "Sophisticated" on this issue...I will love to get there very soon, but let's try to keep the controller as simple as possible so others could replicate them easier and cheaper.

Thanks all for your comments!!


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[tbo_]

Hey Tom,


The way I measure Frequency is like you do with Meters, the Scope also...
BUT, I connect both probes of meter to Pos-Neg of Input-Output, positive with positive and negative with negative.
You can not use the same ground reference for both, since Radiant creates a Ground (Negative) where Positive of Hot is...so you will read Hot Freq well but not Radiant with Negative ground from batteries...

Hope it explained well...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Thanks UFO, perfect.

[torpex]

HI @Ufo,

Ok, Turn off the circuit, BUT, Did you lower frequency BACK TO ZERO before Turn Off??

No, (without touching anything).

If you turn off and LEFT Frequency at HIGH LEVELS, of course it is expected that at Turn On it will "JUMP" to High Output...

This was the question. So I understand that the Radiant is set for the load and is invoked again, working the cold side ok. Or, obviusly, only hot side at high output?

This is just to ask about the behavior. Normally I always put the pots to zero when disconnected.

Thanks for your reply.